I just got a Prodigy brake controller, but need to find out what kind of ground system my van has, so I don't ruin the brake controller right off the hop! Would there be a towing/brake wiring harness up under the dash maybe that I could get an adapter to plug into it?

The Windstar has a negative ground system. But beware: The brake signal required to drive a Tekonsha Prodigy controller does *NOT* come from the brake pedal switch.

99+ Winstars uses "low side switching" - which means many circuits are completed by connecting the ground, not +12V. The wires at the brake light switch will not create the voltage a brake controller is expecting. This also means you'll need an electronic converter to handle your trailer lights (the lighting circuits are also handled using low-side switching, which doesn't match standard trailer wiring).

I tow a popup camper with my 2000 Windstar, and made a number of changes to the van related to towing. And I learned a lot about Windstar wiring while getting my Prodigy controller working.

You'll want to spend some time taking a look at some pictures I took of my Windstar towing projects. Carefully read the text comments and understand the pictures that are specific to connecting a brake controller signal line. On my 2000 Windstar LX (that does *not* have the OEM towing package), there is a separate connector taped to the harness, well above the brake pedal. That connector includes the signal required for a brake controller. Unfortunately, I'm not sure exactly how this was handled in the 2002 model, so this may not apply to your van in the same way it did to mine. Link to pictures:

http://rides.webshots.com/album/549196858rbUAlb

The brake controller requires its own voltage supply. Obviously, this needs to be a dependable supply. The supply should be *only* for the controller (don't try to share it with the lighting, etc.) and should be protected by a self-resetting circuit breaker. My Prodigy installation instructions specifically mentioned these items, but you'd be surprised how many people ignore the instructions, and then wonder why things don't work well.

You'll see from the pictures that I spent a lot of time on wiring. To be fair, I probably went a little overboard - but I'm an electrical engineer, so it's to be expected. But my lighting, braking and refrigerator/charge circuits have all worked as expected when I needed them. Enough said.

Most trailer/towing electrical problems are related to poor grounds. Pay close attention to all ground connections, both on the trailer and any you might add on the tow vehicle.

I wired my brake controller myself, without purchasing a separate harness kit. However, there are kits out there for the Windstar. I'd check in with the manufacturer to verify it will fit your model year. A link to one supplier:

http://www.hitchesonline.com/acces_includes/brake_wiring.htm


Other items you may have already considered:

The Windstar's rear suspension is famously soft. You may want to firm it up for towing. I added AirLift 1000 spring airbags to my Windstar, and have been pleased with them. They won't solve problems that should be solved with a weight distributing hitch, but they've worked well for my situation (my PU has a very manageable tongue weight). Pics of installation here:

http://rides.webshots.com/album/548741257AJALLi

For others who might read this thread: My popup camper didn't have brakes originally. I added them myself, and highly recommend that all but the lightest utility trailers have their own brakes. Pics of project here:

http://rides.webshots.com/album/548339571fnHjzQ

Your Windstar probably has the original "donut" mini spare tire. This spare is not rated for towing. I upgraded to a full size spare, and recommend this simple upgrade.

Minivan towing is kind of a specialized discipline. If you'd like to learn more, the "Towing" forums on http://www.popupexplorer.com regularly discuss such topics.

Thanks for the great information Phil...sure is great having the chance to converse with somebody who really knows their stuff!

I just bought a 1976 Rambler Peanut, its a 13 foot 'mini' RV. It has electric brakes and the 7 pin wiring connector. I have already had a trailer lighting switching unit installed when I got a little pop up tent trailer a few years ago, but it was only a flat four connection to the trailer.

Seeing the connection I needed, I bought an adapter to go from the flat four to the 7 pin, that got my basic trailer lights taken care of, but their was still the black 12V wire, the blue electric brake, white ground and yellow wires that I have yet to connect...well I connected the white to a good ground point on the chassis.

That fuse block you installed under the hood, is that the only way to get a 12 volt supply to run back to that black wire on the trailer connector? I may opt to put a block like that in, but my time window is narrow before heading out for holidays, therefore if I can locate an unused fuse spot that has access to 12 volts would be great. Or is that why you installed the fuse block, because there is no free spot available?

The blue electric brake wire...did you have to run in to the back yourself (under trim etc) or was there existing wiring to tap into for this purpose? If have to run the wire, what guage wire would you recommend? (vaguely remember my electronic training in college...larger wires = less resistance)

I believe that, depending on model year, Windstars with the OEM tow package included wires to the back of the van. I don't believe Windstars without the tow package (like mine) had such wiring. Again, your mileage may vary, depending on model year and options.

I ran a total of 3 10 gauge lines from the front of the van to the back: One for trailer lighting, one for the brakes, and a relay-controlled circuit (so it would automatically turn off when the van is turned off) to run my popup's refrigerator. Again, I got a bit carried away on the wiring. I presume you've already handled trailer lighting from your popup. If you don't want to run a high-current line to the trailer (say for a fridge or to recharge a trailer battery), you don't need to worry about that circuit.

I'd run at least 14 gauge wire for the brake controller; 12 is better. Yes, the wiring can be time consuming. But there are some wiring harness bundles that already go the length of the van underneath; just follow them. Attach all wiring carefully, and make sure it's protected from anything that could rub against it and wear insulation away.

Before I added the fuse block for my Windstar, I was towing a utility trailer (and so needed lights). I just added an in-line fuse from a circuit attached directly to the van battery (such a fuse holder is readily available in common auto parts stores).

I know of no empty fuse slots on the Windstar (well, at least my Windstar) that would have power and be ready to use for other circuits.

If you don't want to run a high-current line to the trailer (say for a fridge or to recharge a trailer battery), you don't need to worry about that circuit.

Is there not a recharge line already incorporated in the seven pin connector? I assumed so, since there is a spot on the tongue for a battery and it must be recharged in some manner...

BTW: The wiring job went great, thanks to your info and photos I was able to easily locate that connector with the green wire easily. Otherwise, would have missed it for sure, for it is way up out of sight.

I had stopped by the local Ford dealership on my way back from getting the Prodigy and inquired about the harness to connect up the controller. They did not sell just the harness, but the whole package (a controller, harness, etc). Just as well, it would have been an unnecessary cost, for the wiring went alright anyways.

Tomorrow is the day I'll see if all is well when I connect up to the trailer.

It's a 1976 Rambler Peanut, just 13 footer, and the brakes and tires looked neglected, but when I took the hubs off, the brake shoes were still in good enough shape and the adjuster was not seized up. Didn't think there could be much to go wrong with the magnet so I just steel wooled the drum surfaces, for they looked unused in long time, and replaced them. Redid all the butt connectors, to make sure they were good.

I'm pleased your wiring job went well. You're wise to pull the trailer drums to inspect and adjust the brake hardware. Note that trailer drum brakes are *not* self-adjusting; they must be adjusted periodically to maintain effectiveness.

Yes, the 7 pin connector itself includes provision for a charge line.

The whole business of charging a trailer battery can be complicated. The basic idea is to run a wire from the positive terminal of the tow vehicle's battery to the positive terminal of the trailer battery. The reality is that even a very small voltage drop (due to undersized wire or ground problems) will result in poor charging of the trailer battery - even though the tow vehicle battery will still charge fine. For example, the additional load of a trailer refrigerator almost guarantees that there will be enough of a voltage drop that the trailer battery will charge slowly, if it all.

A secondary problem is that the trailer battery can then discharge the tow vehicle battery when the tow vehicle is turned off (this is why a relay controlled by the tow vehicle's ignition can be so important).

If you do want to charge a trailer battery while driving, oversize the charge wire and spend some time with a digital voltmeter to ensure voltage drops aren't a problem.

Full disclosure: My wife isn't interested in dry camping, so I simply removed the trailer battery. I did add TAP's Engager breakaway switch kit, which includes it's own battery and recharging circuit. A breakaway switch engages the trailer brakes in the unlikely even of a trailer completely detaching from the tow vehicle while under way. An important safety device; many states require it on trailers with brakes.

Ahhh, the brakes not adjusting automatically helps explain why they didn't lock up today when I tested everything out. I followed the setup instruction with the Prodigy (awesome little unit) and even when I sent 7.5 volts to the trailer the brakes didn't lock, but sure could feel them catching (I know I could have sent a max of 12 volts, but was leery of wrecking something on the old trailer)

Thats a bit of a pain tho-having to pull the drum apart to manually adjust them...grrr.

Phil, would you happen to know why one side of a trailer's lights would be dimmer than the other? The left side trailer lights are dimmer than the right side...actually the left side went out completely tonight and I have to get to the bottom of it tomorrow..the bulb is ok checked it with my meter. Must be a loose connection cuz it worked when I originally hooked up but after a bit of a drive around it was out.

There is a yellow wire in the 7 pin connector, looks to be a bigger guage wire, but really not sure what its for tho...for now I just taped it back on the flat 4 to 7 pin adapter...wonder if that could be somehow utilized as a dedicated charge wire for the trailer battery?

I'm new to having this type of camper trailer with all the lights and fridges etc, so its kinda boggling to make sense out of all the mess of wires going willy nilly...lol

A dim light generally means a poor connection somewhere. Experience says the connection is probably a bad ground. Use your meter to verify ground connections, etc. One approach: If your meter has an "ohms" setting, check the resistance between that light's ground and another known-good ground. It should be close to zero ohms (well, less than 1 ohm - I presume you've got a digital multimeter).

And I wouldn't be surprised that a marginal ground connection might get worse after a drive. Of course, now is the time to track these things down. Not at the side of the road during your trip!

If you've got a single, large gauge wire on the trailer's connector, I'd suspect it's for a refrigerator/charge line. Find out where it goes.

I just have my old analog meter from my college days...lol..a Hioki. So will try with it set a 1X scale.

If you've got a single, large gauge wire on the trailer's connector, I'd suspect it's for a refrigerator/charge line. Find out where it goes.

The pickle of that, is that the wire bundle from the trailer connector goes up into the trailer and I can't figure out how to get access to them, short of ripping out the floors (which may be an option at a later date, but can't do now)

If at all possible, get a digital multimeter. Even the cheapies do a pretty good job.

Instead of tracking the entire wire down, look at the back-panel connections to your fridge. Does the thick yellow wire make an appearance?

I don't see it mentioned.....so I will mention it....
I would make CERTAIN that the wheel bearings on the trailer are re-greased.
Otherwise, the first clue you may have of a problem is after the bearing has burned out.
AT the worst....it could cause a fire.
At the least.....a major delay in your trip.
Another church near me taking the same trip had a bearing burn out on a rental trailer.

I would drive a short while......stop and check (very carefully) for a hot wheel rim......which would indicate a hot bearing or dragging brake.

Also, look for dry rot on the trailer tires......I was towing a trailer that belonged to a church member and the tires looked good......had some dry rot on the side walls......we developed a very slight side to side wobble on 1 tire....inspected it....seemed fine.....then the tread came off.

Always good to make sure that you have a good spare tire....and make certain that the rim actually fits.
Trailer I mentioned.......looked the same...but upon installation, found that the bolt holes (same number, etc) were just 1/4" (max) off from lining up.
I only tow a trailer 1 time a year.......and have had 2 flat tires......both on the traffic side.

Yes, I'll second wiswind's comments.

When towing, I'm in the habit of walking around the trailer, and touching the hub on each wheel. It will be warm to the touch - but shouldn't be so hot you can't touch it. And both wheels should be about the same temperature. Differences indicate a brewing problem.

Most trailer tires will dry rot long before the tread is gone. Another hint: Make sure you have a jack and lug wrench that work for the trailer. Your tow vehicle's jack may work; it may not. You want to find out before leaving on a trip. In my experience, Murphy's law dictates that trailer lugs are never the same size as the tow vehicle's lugs. Bring the right wrench.

Yes, when I took the drums off to inspect the brakes I had purchased a bearing packer and varsol to clean up the old grease. Repacked them all with fresh new grease. The first thing I did was replace the two tires, with some tires from a 2nd hand tire place. The spare I checked, but it looked to be in good shape (its covered from elements and such by the tire cover) intend to check air pressure in spare tomorrow.

One thing that I bought that really cut back on noise was an anti-rattle clip.
I have a picture or so posted in my pictures of it.
I bought mine online from etrailers
I get NO rattle / clunking when the trailer goes over bumps....which reduces driver (me) fatigue.

Take note....if you are going to be driving over bumpy roads......the trailer is going to be bouncing.....so make sure that everything is well secured.

Also take note that it will take longer to stop (more critical than going) and that the trailer can catch the edge of the road on uneven pavements......which can often happen in construction zones where the lanes shift to and from the breakdown lane/berm/etc.

Even a light trailer......add in people and luggage.......puts a heavier load on the vehicle (as well as the driver), which makes a transmission cooler a big plus, and good brakes, tires, cooling system, etc.

If you get stopped in traffic......having the A/C ON will force the radiator fans to stay on when the vehicle is below a certain speed, which will cool the radiator and TRANSMISSION better....
It is a good idea to verify radiator fan operation before leaving home.

Hello

I just borrowed a car trailer with brakes. I noticed that one of the of the brake drums was hot enough to for spit to sizzle. I pulled the drum and found that one of the shoes had lost it's lining and was causing a high amount of friction. The brake shoes cost 84.00! I'm glad the guy that I borrowed it from paid for them.

My 95 Windstar also lost the brake lining and caused the wheel to lock up.

Regards


Dan