Engine Problem

After putting gas in my 2000 gp today I started it up and it immediately died. I tryed again and it did the same thing. Then on the next try i steped on ht e gas as soon as i stated the it before the rpms got too low it worked and I was able to drive away. but now it is struggling to stay alive when at idle. when my foot is on the gas it is fine but when i stop at a light it struggles and sounds really bad and the whole car shakes with the struggling engine. Its quite ridiculous. When I got home I tryed to start her up again in my garage but it shut off and the only light left on was the battey charging system light (you know the one shaped like a battery in the top right). Could it be eletrical? I have a pretty serious sound system hooked up to my battery so coudl this be part of the problem? I have didconnected my sound system for mthe battery but the problem is still there. I was thinking that maybe my sound system has been killing off my battery the past year that i have had it and the is only enough energy when the rpms are higher than at idle. Does anybody have any idea what is going on? I love my car so I'm freakin out over here!!!

When gp's stall, I believe the volts light should come on. You sure can take the battery out and bring it to the nearest parts place and have it load tested. Just to rule it out as a cause. Maybe while your there see if you can borrow a fuel pressure guage and check fuel pressure at the rail. Here though i almost suspect a bad IAC (idle air controll) motor. Its held into the throttle body by a couple small torx bolts. You can clean it and its passages with carb spray. Also when its out, take your thumb and push the pintle all the way in. Dont be afraid to push kinda hard, if it doesnt move, replace it. This way when you get it all back together and first start it up, it will take a big breath of fresh air. If it runs and stays running you have a bad IAC and it needs to be replaced.

Tblake is correct in that it is normal for the battery light to come on if the car stalls and the ignition is still in the on position. Another thing (in addition to the IAC tblake mentioned) to try is unplugging the MAF sensor. It's the black rectangular shaped sensor that is located just before the throttle body. If unplugging it makes the car run better, it's the MAF that needs replaced.

Thanks guys i really appreciate the help. i have not had time to take anything off yet but I have looked under the hood and found the parts you all ar talking about. Any ideas as to why this would start happening after I put gas in the car? This has happened a couple of times lately after i have refueled but it usually went away after i drive for a little bit.

Hey thanks for the info rich and tblake. I disconnected the idle air control motor and cleaned it with carb spray and then reconnected it and it reved real high the died. I than disconnected th MAF sensor and tryed it and it did not shut off but the engin did idle at 3000 rpms in park and at about 1500 in reverse and drive. Is this normal with the MAF disconnected. also will disconnecting it trip the SES light? cause it came on after I started her up with the MAF disconnected.

The CEL illuminating with the MAF unplugged is normal. The high idle is due to the PCM needing to recalibrate the IAC. It should idle back down to normal after a short readjustment period.