'00 Avenger 2.5L No Spark

I have my son's Avenger (2.5L) here and when he brought it to me to look at, it would not start after it sat for 30 mins. This started about 2 weeks ago. I got it started to put in the garage and that was the last time it started. Hot or cold.
Got into the distributor. Readings on the coil are ok! Then I checked the 5 wire harness going into the side if the dist., and with the key on, only one wire is active. And that fires up the initial shot from the fuel pump. (And using a test light to check for that juice, the pump fired, but no spark on the test light.) No juice to the coil either. The single wire going to the coil!
Any suggestions on no spark at the distributor?

The black/red wire should be hot with the engine cranking. That should be primary voltage to the coil. The black wire should have a pulse, with the engine cranking.

I'm not a transister expert, I believe the computer sends a small voltage on the coil driver circuit," red/green wire", to the base of the transistor, which switches the connection between the emitter and collector.

Maybe some of the other prople can explain it better?

Will only send sig when it recieves from cranck sensor. Check the crank sensor.

Will only send sig when it recieves from cranck sensor. Check the crank sensor.

If the crank sensor is not working, wouldn't I get an error code? Or, by not starting the car, something else is wrong and this sensor is detecting it and causing the no spark! What would that be?

I realize you were asking the other person, but, check for voltage at the injectors, with the engine cranking. If you have no voltage at the injectors or coil with the engine cranking, it's a good bet, the computor isn't grounding the ASD relay, for some reason. One of the reasons, the computor won't ground the ASD relay, is because of a missing signal from the cam or crank sensor. If you have voltage at the injectors, during cranking, I think the cam and crank sensors are fine.

Similar problem (96 sebring 2.5L)

No spark at cyls 2,4,6.

verified voltage at injector at crank
verified voltage at 2-pin distributor connector at crank
verified coil resistance at 2-pin distr connector (@ 1.4 ohms, Chiltons says .6 - .8)
verified secondary resistance ( @7.28K ohms, chiltons says 12-18K ohms)
verified distributor cap resistance ( @5.5K ohms)

Since I still don't have any spark, how can I verify if the crank sensor is good or bad? Is there something esle broken?

AutoZone checked the used "Crankshaft Position Sensor" and found it defective. OK, I got the new one, and it has a .030" spacer fastened right to the front of the sensor. Here is the paperwork that came with it. (Continued below)

CAUTION: DO NOT REMOVE PAPER SPACER ON SENSOR TIP. ','
The paper spacer about .030 inch thick pasted on the tip of the sensor probe, should not be removed prior to installation.
It provides the required air gap between the sensor and the engine moving parts. After installation and the engine is started,
it gets sheared off.
If for some reason a sensor is pulled out and has to be reinstalled, a similar spacer should be glued to the sensor tip.
ATENCI6N: NO QUITAR EL SEPARADOR DE PAPEL DE LA PUNTA DEL SENSOR
\
No quitar el separador de papal (de unas 0,03 pulgadas de espesor pegado a la punta de la sanda del sensor antes de
instalarlo. Este papal es la se~acrcjffqmtqaedard "".1,e ei sensor y las partes en movlmiemo-oel-metorr CuaridoAl
motorarranca con el sensorinstalado, el papal se separa inmediatamentedel sensor.
Sipor cualquier motivo se debe saGar elsensor, pegar un separador similar en la punta antes de volver a instalarlo.
. ATTENTION: NE PASENLEVER LE PAPIERDE L'EXTREMITEDU CAPTEUR
Ne pas enlever Ie papier intercalaire d'environ 0,76 mm (0.03°.eo) d'epaisseur colle a I'extremite de la sonde du capteur
avant de poser cette demiere. Ce papier menage Ie jeu necessaire entre Ie capteur et les pieces mobiles du moteur.
Apres la pose du capteur et la mise en marche du moteur, Ie papier s'arrache.
Si, pour une raison quelconque, on doit deposer puis reposE1runcapteur, coller un intercalaire semblable a son extremite.
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So, I did what they said, and nothing happened. I took it back out and the spacer was still on there, untouched. Talked to a Dodge mechanic at the dealership and was told that the spacer would come off in a couple of weeks. Then my son-in-law was here from Indiana, (he is a certified GM mechanic) and said, "Let's try it again!" This time it kinda shaved just a small layer of the spacer off, but no start. Took it back out, and it the spacer was still just shaved like before.
I do have juice to the CKP.
Anyone have any insight on this Dodge (Mitsubichi) piece of car?

Found the problem. The "ASD Relay" bench tested good twice. Two different people tested it. In the car the ASD didn't have any power till you rapped the side of it. Replaced that and put the old "Crankshaft Sensor" that Autozone said was no good back in. Still running......................