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Scratch build Lambo Murcie R-GT 2007

05-19-2007, 01:45 PM
Hello Guys
After some doubts as to which forum to post this, I decided that the WIP Motorsports section was still the best option.
As short description of the illustrate my dilemma :rolleyes:

Goal of the project is to build a 2007 version of the #8 All Inkl Lamborghini Murciellago R-GT. :iceslolan
The purpose of the project is to race the car in a 1/24 slotrace endurance on the Spa Francorchamps track. :screwy:
As a base for the project I'm using a Diecast Burgago metal kit :icon16:

Although the end result will be what could be considered a basic curbside kit. Most of the topic will be on scratch building the body...something a lot of people shy away from because it seems so complicated.
But actually its all basic modelling stuff. all you need is a good pair of eyes, some sheet plastic, some milliput and....lots of time:smokin:

I'll leave it up to the moderators to move the thread if they feel it should be.

Here are some first pictures, first off all here's the 1/1 car with fellow countryman Peter Kox taking the R-GT on a very tight line over the Silverstone kerbs last weekend.:grinyes:

Then some pics of the 1/24 project
On top is the 2005 R-GT my team mate Nick build a year ago. Its a Fujimi kit & Scaleproduction transkit. Nick did all the bodywork and completely carbon-decalled it! (studio 27) , I made the Reiter/Hollinger decals for him and also helped him cast the resin wheelinserts (reworked Studio 27 Toyota TS010 wheels that resemble the new BBS rims quite well).

Although the car looked great, all those resin ad ons to a modelkit bdoy also made it very fragile (for slot purposes). So when the team decided to enter a 2007 R-GT for the Spa endurance was clear that we needed a GFK laminated body.(Making our own master in the process)

The local hobby shops did not have the Fujimi kit in stock, so I ordered one on line together with an Autoart Murcie slotcar. But as I was waiting for those to arrive....if stumbled across a discarded Burago Metal kit that I'd picked up on E-bay together with a 1/24 C5 (Future project....making a proper 1/24 GLPK C5 R).

With nothing else to do..but looking at the refences pictures...... my fingers were itching and I started to compare the 2 bodies....could I possibly use the Burago...:uhoh:

The funny thing is that although Micheal Graber did a superb job on the Scaleproduction transkit, the R-GT Nick build with it always looked a bit oversized and to bulky, specially at the back. With the transkit it looks wider at the front than at the rear.
To my surprise the Burago Metal kit captured the lines of the Murcuielago better than Fujimi. Specially in the areas around the front windshield and at the rear, the Burago is better. Although the Burago is shorter, it looks slimmer and has a more defined "waistline".

Anyhow...the postman wasn't ringing and my fingers just had to do something so..what the H#** lets start working
A lot of filing and filler to clean up the lines of the metal kit has already been done. Although the parts are quite good, opening doors meant that aligning them was a pain in the *##. One discintive feature on the 2007 model is the central Naca duct on the hood. This is the first time I've used a metal body, but milling the metal was actually quite easy.
According to the reference data the R-GT should be 85,75mm wide in 1/24 which means the Burago has to grow by some 6mm @ the front. I checked the wheel base and this was correct on the Burago.... so no problems there :licka:
First step in making the wide front fenders was to enlarge the wheelarches. Got to make room for those 26mm fronts (min diameter described in the Technical rules, true scale wheels are bigger 27mm fornt and 28,5 rear but for slot use this too much rubber)
When I had the right clearance I glued strips of 0.75mm thick plastic sheet in the enlarged wheelarch. These served 2 purposes.
To set the correct witdh
To serve as a foundation for the milliput that I use to build up the fenders
Getting bot fenders the same is alway a diffucult job, so as to be able to keep a good check on their simitry I added the milliput in 2 stages. By first modeling the rear of the fender and the lower part of the front it was easy to keep a check on the thickness and profile of the miliput.

To create the "gap" between the bodywork and the fender I used some double sided foamtape as a spacer. This was easily removable after the milliput hardened.
Here's a pic of the car with the top of the front fender added. Looked good but...something was bothering me
After looking at the ref pictures again and again, I noticed that in profile, the higest point of the front fender was at the centerline of the wheel arch, where as @ my fender the highest point was at the windscreen.
Well...back to the drawing board

05-19-2007, 08:36 PM
Well it looks like "the powers that be" seemed to have decided that this topic belongs in the slotcar modelling forum.

So what if I decide to put the car back on its Burago you guys move it back to diecast, or should I start building a scratch chassis and motor...then is it good enough for the WIP motorsports :smooch:

Personally I think :banghead:...well forget about it.

here's an update.
Back to 1/'s the Murcie after some late night sessions. Most of the work was concentrated on finding the correct profile of the front fenders. I also sanded the body almost back to the bare metal as a lot of detail had been lost under the several layers of primer.
On of the most distinctive features of the 2007 Lambo are the double rows of louvres on top of the wheel arches. These caused me some considerable headaches, how to make them? As a result I kept working around the problem, thinking I would tackle it later, but as I started to reprofile the front fenders I had to find a solution.......
Going trough my extensive extra parts bin did not bring anything, but I did found some old sheets of plastic sheet, These are actually rooftiles you use for H0 modeltrain houses, I amost forgot I had them, but on set had the correct size and number of tiles for the louvres.
I cut the sheet to shape and as its only 1mm thick it was easy to bend thyem to get the correct curvature. The only problem was that I had to mill 1mm deep recesses on the hood to get them flush with the bodywork.
Here's a picture that shows well how I build up the fenders with Milliput. Really great stuff, its substance is hard enough to model it with a spatula, you can cut it with a sharp knife, and as it is water based, you can smoothen it with a wet tools so you get a finish that hardly needs any sanding. Which is advisable because once its dry it becomes rock hard.
After all the filing and shaping the sharpness of the body lines had dissapeared so I needed to ad some milliput to regain the flat egde around the wheelarches.
Checking the ref pics I also noticed that the airscoop on the roof was much longer, I had some mixed milliput left so I corrected that as well.
The R-GT after stage 2 with a new coat of primer, I was really happy with the result...and then Nick dropped by and said....the front louvers are not aligned, one's more to the left than the other.

Shit....back to the drawingboard :upset:


05-20-2007, 03:18 AM
I can see arguments for either folder. :dunno:

But either way your work so far and attention to detail is very impressive. I'll look forward to seeing more. :)

05-20-2007, 07:24 AM
Hello Phil and other AF moderators.
Phil thx for the reply
The reason why I sometimes get the feeling of :banghead: is that the slotcar section of the AF is almost starting to become a private section of Fola and me.

While the main reason of posting on AF is to show & share your work and exchange ideas with other "related spirits". In other words to give and get inspiration. AF is a perfect platform for "cross over" information.

We've got plenty of channels to reach the slot enthousiasts, but most of the stuff us "modelcar" slotracers do concerns scratch building (anything from wheels, wings, bodies, interiors).
I mean it when I said I carefully checked to see which forum to use.

Ok the Diecast section was a bit of a joke, most topics there concern modifying street cars (slap on new wheels, roof chops etc etc)
So no it does not belong there.

Option 2: Slotcar modeling
Discuss and show Slot Cars that you have modified, or that you have collected.
Well yes the end result will be a slotcar, or actually a model(slot)car as we call themn over here. But its not a modification of an existing car, nor is it a finished project (yet)

Which is why I picked
Option 3:Car modeling/ WIP Motorsports
Post topics for any "Work In Process" motorsports vehicles in this sub-forum.
Its a Motorsport vehicle, its definately WIP and the fact that in the end I will race the finished model on a slottrack is just added info.

I saw on your signature that you're a jaguar maybe this will make things more clear.

Layla's Keeper
05-20-2007, 07:53 AM
As a slot car enthusiast myself (though I race lexan bodied, c-can powered monstrosities, instead of the more "scale" stuff) I understand the desire to get more attention for your builds. Slot Cars frequently only get raised eyebrows and "what's that" reactions when brought up in conversation.

This forum was created to give slot car guys on AF a place to show off their stuff and to draw attention to all aspects of the slot car hobby. Racing, building chassis and motors, and so on. Things that are completely against the purposes of the modeling forums.

In essence, a highly detailed slot car is a well-done model, but the things that make a slot car a slot car demand their own forum for discussion because they are equally fascinating to the shell placed over them.

05-20-2007, 08:19 AM
As a slot car enthusiast myself (though I race lexan bodied, c-can powered monstrosities, instead of the more "scale" stuff) I understand the desire to get more attention for your builds. Slot Cars frequently only get raised eyebrows and "what's that" reactions when brought up in conversation.

Ok I hope that the redirect from the WIP motorsports section will do just that. Showing that there's more to slot (model)car racing than " racing lexan bodied, c-can powered monstrosities" :smooch:

05-22-2007, 09:21 PM
Back from the drawingboard........
Repositioned the louvres so that they're more symetrical, managed to loose one in the process :disappoin
Finally gave up looking for it and cut a new one
Also recorrected the edge where the frontfender joins the hood, looking at the pictures this edge is knife sharp and runs
in line with the headlights.

So with most of the body in its correct shape (or at least so I thought...more about that later) it was time to turn my
attention to some detail parts. Looking at the body for weeks now, I just couldn't stand it anymore....
This car needed a wing ....badly!!!
As you can see on the ref pic, the 2007 R-GT sports a full width rear wing with a raised centre section.
Should not be too difficult, a wayward Carrera C6R was happy to donate one....
But a big problem with the R-GT is the way the rearwing is mounted......way out @the back, and look at those flimsy
supports, there's holes and brackets all over the place! :uhoh:

Ok first things first...the wing. Athough the shape of the C6R is ok, it is way to narrow (79mm) . Figures as the Carrera
is only 82 mm at the back, but to cover the Murcie's ass it needs to be 85 at least.

So I made a silicone mold of the spoiler and poured me 2 resin wings. Why 2, because that's the easiest way to extend
the spoiler and keep the correct profile.
Here are the 2 resin wings. First step is simply to glue both spoilers together @ the endplates.
The wing needs to "grow" by 6mm so..mark 3mm from the endplate and cut!
Glue the part you've got left to the other endplate and cut again. The wing is now 87mm wide (forgot to compensate for
the thickness of the endplate :D )
Sanding down the endplates was easy and with just a bit of thick superglue as filler the wing was ready for primer.
While I was waiting for the Primer to dry I thought ...what the heck, lets try to do the wing supports. So I took some
0,5mm carbon sheet and started to file and drill and shape..until the primer of the wing had dried....and dried, and dried.
In between I cut 2 slots in the wing for the supports and gave it a quick shot of black so that that could dry as I continued
on the wing supports.......
Here's a pic of the seperate parts, and the assembled wing, not really happy with the shape of the supports,
but then again...when did anything go well on its first try
Cutting the slots in the metal body was a pain...and to keep the wing in its place I stuffed some sponge between the supports.....
But least the car has a wing...I'll worry about how to make new supports..that are both strong and flexible later...
for now...I'm happy to enjoy the view

Other detail parts that were adressed were new louvres for over the engine bay.....
(the Burago louvres did not run over the full width of the bay)
...and the recessed fuel filler. I glued some 2mm sheet styrene behind the window and cut the oval and shped the sides.
Fillercap came courtesy of an old Nissan 390 kit. Still needs some cleaning up, but not bad for a firsst attempt
Last major job is to build a front splitter and close the side windows, but only the side windows are neccesary before I
can start pouring some silicone. ...progress has been made.
So I'm happy...that is until I get an email that the Autoart Lamborgini that I ordered some time ago (see my post "stage 1")
has finally arrived.
As I get into the car to pick it up ...I think: Oh's like that DBR9 nightmare all over again
(I once worked 2 months on a Renaissance DBR9 and then got my hands on the Spark Aston.....
after one look I dumped the Renaissance in the bin and the Spark in the sillicone :screwy:)
And indeed, the lines of the Autoart are much sharper, the nose is longer (more correct) the roofline is better and and
and...the detail.......:banghead:

well back to the drawingboard...again!

05-24-2007, 06:23 PM

Well I for one am rooting for you, Tamar! I love these kinds of projects, and the work you're doing really is quite good. It's too bad this can't hang out in the WIP motorsports section, but it's okay at the same time. You know you are doing good work, and I know this too, so just keep it up and you'll have a really unique awesome kit to race around. :)

I appreciate you posting all the mis-steps of the build, (no offence, of course.) because that is 3/4 of modelling for sure! It is being able to continue on from those points that really open up the quality of the work. I'm working on some really off the wall projects, but I really enjoy the work I'm doing! I'll check back from time to time, so know you've got at least one real fan of this project!

Thanks again, and take care.

05-26-2007, 11:51 AM
Hello Sileightsix

THX for your encouraging words.
Learning from your mistakes is what live is all about, I believe you understand that like no other.
Sure f*#k-ups hurt, but afterwards once you've overcome the pain and learned your lesson I at least always feel better.

Reason for me to post these topics is that I see too many people reluctant to try anything that might result in a mistake.
Too affraid of the pain :rolleyes: ?

Anyhow, maybe its for the best that this post is now in slot siberia :smooch:.....
After getting the auto art I first thought I would transplant some of the AA detail parts onto my Burago master......
But the list of transplants grew and grew to such an extend......
that in the end I've decided it would be simpler to accept defeat and to make a mold of the frontfenders of my master and pour a resine copy.
Using those as a transkit for on the Auto Art.

So in the end it will be a "slotcar conversion" after all :icon16:

I'll be using the pentacost weekend to regain some ground on the project.
Already pulled the Autoart apart, more pictures will follow.

Once you 've noticed a mistake, there's no going back...ignorence is bliss :smokin:

David Napier
05-27-2007, 02:59 PM
Great work, even if you have decided it was going down a wrong direction. Regarding where this thread is posted on the forum it seems strange to me that the mods couldnt loosen up a little and let some of the most inspirational and true modelling on the forum at the moment remain where it was initially posted rather than sticking it in the comparitive graveyard that the slot forum is, I consider myself lucky to have found this thread, but no doubt many are missing it

05-31-2007, 01:37 PM
Hello David
thx for the kind words, I'm flattered. but apperently the mods don't share our opinion, so be it.

I'll keep posting anyhow.....:gives:

Stage 4: Been there, done that,.... doing it again :grinyes:
One af the advantages of doing things twice is that you get a chance to improve upon your earlier fuck-ups.
While the mold for the front fenders was setting the first thing I did on the Autoart body was to build up the edge of the
rear wheeelarch. Not so much to widen it , more to have material so I could get that straight edge.
Above step 1 building up material with some Milliputt. After this had hardened,
I cleaned up the edges checking that the thicknes of the build up was equal on both sides.

One of the problems I had on the Burago was that with each coat of primer
I lost some of the cleanness of the bodylines.
So on the Auto Art I used a different method.
Step 2: Before applying the Primer I masked off the rest of the body and only sprayed the panel I was working on.
The result is much better and its a lot easier to keep track of the symmetry as well.
I used several layers of Tamiya primer to blend the milliput into the original wheelarches, carefully sanding with
1000 grit wet&dry emmery paper between layers.
Immidiately the more correct shape of the AA body showed when I dropped the body over the chassis.
The Lambo has this distincitve way the rear wheel is halfway up in the wheelarch and the AA body does this a lot better than
the I did the right thing afterall :D
To make room for the rear wheel quite a lot of material had to be milled away
from the inside, but as the AA body is some 2 mm thick and the laminated GFK will be much thinner this should not be a problem...I hope.

Anyhow I think it looks much better, the pain of loosing time on the Burago is but a distant memory:icon16:.

So much for now...more later

David Napier
06-10-2007, 04:16 PM
Please dont give up on this one Tamar, and if you could I'd love to see more of your Viper:worshippy:

06-10-2007, 08:53 PM
Don't worry David...I'm not givin' up on this one....the car's due to race on July 26th so....I'm comitted :iceslolan

And yeah that Viper thread, kinda forgot about that one, gotta finish that one as well. Problem with that post was that when I build the Viper 2 1/2 years ago it was such a rush to finish her for the race that I didn't have time to make pictures of the laminating process... :rolleyes:

But 2 months ago we did a laminating workshop and a friend of mine used the Viper mold as a I've got the missing pic's now...just lack the time to finish the post.

Anyhow you can see more pictures of the Viper on

06-10-2007, 09:42 PM
Here's a pic of the resin copy I made of the Burago nose. I was a bit of a quick and dirty job.
Didn't want to spend a whole load of silicon by copying the whole body.
So I sort of only boxed in the nose and started pouring.
That was easy...but this meant that my mould would be "open" at the back after the master was removed.
So when I wanted to pour the resin this was a bit untidy as the stuff flowed
just as fast out the back of the mold as i could pour it in the front. :screwy:
Luckily I used the really fast curing stuff (cures in 5min) and I managed to
get it out least 2 pieces. But then came the difficult part...
As the cast was a solid piece it required a lot of milling to make it as thin
as....well lets say a 1/24 front fender :icon16:
Using a dremel and a parabolic mill bit some hours were spend milling
away to a thickness of less than 0.5mm at some places.

And all the time I was holding my breath (not at least because this produced a lot of dust) thinking..its going to break....
but in the end it didn't :naughty:

So now I had my own home grown "transkit". The first test fitting looked promising,
overall shape seemed to fit, at some places the fender was still a bit thick
so I carefully milled way some more to get a better "flush" fit

But before I could continue I had to enlarge the original wheelarches so I could
drop the body to the desired "ride height".
This was the stage were I had to pay extar attention of not loosing the proper reference.
Maintaining simmitry is one of the most diffucult things if you start to modify a body.

So to make sure I enlarged both wheelarches equally and keeping a check
on the proper wheelbase, I engraved them with a calliper and milled away
until I had removed everything below the engraved line.
Here's a pic of the second test fit. As I had seen at first glance when I compared the Burago and AA bodies,
there were some serious differences between their nose sections (with the AA being the most correct).
The AA windscreen is a bit narrower at the bottom and runs much deeper in to the hood.
On both kits the wheelarches are positioned at the same distance from the doors, but as I had lost a bit of reference on the Burago (filling in the huge gaps created by the opening doors) I now saw that the left and right fender where not exactly "mirror images" of each other.

Hmmmm how to decide what is the correct position...........have to think a bit on that one :naughty:

06-19-2007, 06:39 AM
very very very nice job i just bought an auto art 1/12 murcielaguo on e bay in bad condition let me ask you what stuf did you use for this project

thx a lot

06-21-2007, 06:10 PM
let me ask you what stuf did you use for this project

thx a lot

Hello Babas...what do you mean with "which stuff" ?

06-21-2007, 08:13 PM
i mean ,milliput and what else? tools ,etc.......

06-24-2007, 11:14 PM
very nice progress. but i walso want to see the viper "finished product"

06-26-2007, 12:02 AM
i mean ,milliput and what else? tools ,etc.......

Hello babas

Tools I use are basic modelling tools, an x-acto knife and some scalpels, lots of files and emmerypaper, a dremel for the heavy stuff and a proxon for the more delicate milling (with lots of different mill bits).

I use several types of silicone to make molds and have several types of resin to cast small parts (epoxy and polyutherane resins)

I'll make a picture of my working table in the next post.

06-26-2007, 12:06 AM
very nice progress. but i walso want to see the viper "finished product"

I know..I got to finish that post as well, if only I could squesze 25 hrs in a day....(then I'd only be 7 hrs short :grinyes: )

I posted this link for pictures of the Viper in an earlier post

For know the Murcie is taking all of my free time

07-05-2007, 02:28 PM
... And that is time well spent. This is a great project. I just went over the thread again. So much more informative and useful than a simple "bragging" thread of easy to do manual processes.

Take all the time you need to get the proportions just right. It is well worth it in my view. And so what if I'm one of the only people that gets, no, has the HONOR of seeing such dogged craftsmanship unfold? I suspect my appreciation for this one build outstrips a myriad of the common "pat on the back", run of the mill plastic builds in a more frequented area. You can take that to the bank.

Keep it up, post as it becomes comfortable, and know that builders such as yourself, inspire, NO! GALVANIZE my own resolve to realize monster projects.


10-21-2007, 08:45 PM
Its been a while since I last posted, (actually its been a long time ago that I wrote this on the LMC forum as well, but I wanted to finish the article here on AF as well so here's an way overdue update)

last thing I wrote was...I have to give it some thought (on how to mount the front fenders).
As the days passed I thought many solutions, but none were satisfactory so I kept postponing.
The problem was that while test fitting the " Burago" fenders on the Auto Art body I found out that they.....didn't.
At least not properly..they were not the same left/ right and the shape of the wheelarches was also incorrect.
On top of that I had milled the fenders so thin that it was very easy to distort/bend them during the glueing process. And it did not help that the AUto Art body is quite flexible as well.
Positioning of the front fenders has to be very acurate as it they will determine the cars wheelbase and body movement. On the 1/1 car this is a tight fit but there's ample room for the ± 35mm suspension travel, but on 1/24 scale its the body that moves and not only up and down but also sideways. So they have to be in exactly the right position and totally symmetrical.
So I decided to build a kind of Jig, basically a flat board with a centreline so I was sure the body was flat and straight and hopefully I could check the proper width of the fenders. To have "something to build on I first needed to extend the front bumper with some milliput.

I cut the splitter out of 0,8mm GRP leaving plenty of extra material and glued it with doubble sided tape on the Jig.
I covered the top of the splitter with another piece of doubble sided tape, leaving the protectionsheet on so I would have a flat workingspace to add the milliput to, but without the milliput sticking to the splitter.

This worked fine, only when I wanted to fit the fenders it was still difficult to see if the wheelarches were spaced evenly around the wheels. So I took the body of the Jig and decided to work with the body placed over the chassis.
As the jig did not work I needed to find an other way to "fix" the body's position in such a way that whenever I would take it off the chassis I could reposition it exactly in the same way.
In the end the simpelest solution always works best... I glued two strips of 0.75mm in the wheelarches to make sure that the wheels would remain centered.
next I added spacers to position the new fenders, using doubble sided tape to test fit their position. But no matter what I did..I could not get a satisfactory position where both the sides and the top parts alligned properly. As the sides matched better than the top I decided to cut the top off as I would have needed filler in this area anyhow.
I thought of many ways to glue the fenders to the body , looking for a way that would allow me some repositioning while the glue set. These kind of things is what makes up most of the time in a project, thinking about what to do, considering your options, trying to eliminate as many problems as possible before they appear and in the end finding that each solution always causes unforseen new problems.
To clear my mind I decided to work on an different area, and moved my attention from front to the back. Here there is an other set of louvres that extract air from the diff cooler.
A rectangular space was cut from the centre panel and the louvres were build up by glueing several strips of plastic sheet on to of each other
No recessed panel here, just an open window into which the louveres could be "pushed" into position.
A slot was curt in the roof to recieve the roof duct already made for the burago body
With all the other jobs done it was time to return to the front..... well the end I just took superglue and "tacked" the fenders into their position. 5 minutes was all it took.
On to the next stage, milling the recess for the louvre panels was so much easier in the AUto Art plastic body than when I did it on the metal Burago.
Detail shot shows how the louvers are almost flush with the body on the inside and rise ±1mm to the edge of the fenders.
Shot from the side and you see all the complex curves...but so far so good
Fast forward one week and the louvre panels have been glued in place, filler was used to create a flush transition to the body. The central Naca duct had been cut and IThe R-GT actually has 4 seperate louvre panels, but to keep all the louvers aligned I chose to make them as one. Because now that they were in place it was much easier to make a division with filler.
On the pic step 1 using maksing tape to mark the division.
Step 2 I masked the louvres next to the marker tape, removing the centre tape gave me a nice masked area to which I added some putty!
The end result (needs some more tidying up off course) body now in black as I got tired of the primer grey

11-25-2007, 05:17 AM
Hello Tamar,
Long ago that I post in this section.........:grinyes:
It was nice to see you once again at JPVR 2007 Worlds in Belgium.
Nice work you are doing on those cars.
I really like it.
Keep on the good work!

Jean-Marie (Jamme)

Johann Ritter
05-14-2008, 03:58 PM
Hi, I am new to AF and I was just wondering: Am I the only one who wants to see more of this? Great craftsmanship. I think this projekt did not get the attention it deserves. Excellent work Tamar, I`d love to see more...:cheers:

10-02-2008, 10:57 AM
good job man
i really like your job, i think it's almost the same with what i used to do in modelkit

11-16-2008, 10:33 AM
Wow, it has been almost a year since I last posted, a sertious case of to much things to do, to little time and to many loose ends. I was browsing through some old files on my site and realised that had I never posted pictures of the finished car on AF. So better late then they are

03-01-2009, 10:13 AM
You have done a great job on that car. Looks really good in finished state!!

03-01-2009, 08:56 PM
He Kingkai
een mede amsterdammer op AF?

leuk ;)

Kom eens langs op de club in Noord dan kan je hem in het echt zien


03-02-2009, 07:15 AM
Dat lijkt me wel wat!
Hoewel ik zelf niet echt thuis ben in de slotcar racing begint mijn waardering wel erg te groeien voor deze tak van de modelbouw. Als ik zie wat Nick (de wachter) en Fola allemaal bouwen en verkopen :naughty: Zo heb ik ook tenminste toegang tot meer bodies en decals :lol2:
Kan niet wachten tot dat ik wat murcielago's binnen krijg van Nick. Zo kan ik eindelijk de 3 24hLM versies maken.

Wel jammer dat hier op AF de gemaakte 1/24 slotcar modellen in een eigen subforum moet en zo niet echt bezocht/gebruikt worden.
Denk dat Fola's JetAlliance DBR-9's hier erg gewaardeerd kunnen worden, echter een deel van AF lijkt zich toch te willen distantiėren van de slotcar tak.

Sorry for talking in Dutch but we are just talking about this great model :tongue:

08-12-2009, 05:17 AM
Hello Guys

Here some more Pictures of the finished car, this one was actually build by Nick de Wachter. decals were obtained via Fola
This is the #7 car as run during the 2007 SPa Francorchamps 24hrs

miguel s
04-20-2013, 05:50 AM
Amazing build. I would like to give you some more than 10 stars :thumbsup:

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