4T65E Automatic Transmission: side cover removal


dcarver
05-16-2007, 12:51 PM
Has anyone removed the side cover on a 4T65E Automatic Transmission?

2000 Montana.

If so, any special steps or tools I should know about? I know to drain the fluid and pull the axel.

BTW, I'm not too intimated by this van anymore: I've replaced the upper and lower intake manifold gaskets. Took about 8 hours and $100. Now the transmission needs a $40 part (PCS), should be about 3 hours. Right?

cdru
05-17-2007, 04:04 PM
I believe in order to get the side cover off you have to at least drop one side of the engine sub assembly. If that is indeed the case, I would be extreamly impressed if the average DIYer could do it in 3 hours.

dcarver
05-18-2007, 10:23 AM
Having looked under the hood and bumber, I think the first 3 hours will be a pep talk!

HC2000
05-20-2007, 09:40 PM
Having looked under the hood and bumber, I think the first 3 hours will be a pep talk!
Hi, I agree with cdru on the time frame. Click on this link and it will give you an idea how many hours you may need.
Regards,HC2000:)

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=4243251&postcount=11

dcarver
05-22-2007, 10:57 AM
New gasket arrived today ... scary looking. I'll post back how it goes.

dcarver
05-29-2007, 07:27 AM
For the sake of future researchers, here a few notes related to my experience:

Why pull the side cover (transmission or transaxle cover)? Hard shifting and whining - both at the same time, never one without the other - to replace the pressure control solenoid.

Save steps as:
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=4243251&postcount=11

With the following exceptions.

1. Blow off dirt and sand from the top of the transaxle - near the connector. Prevents additional cleaning.
2. Clean off area around the axel - before removing the axel; again prevents additional cleaning.
3. Support vehicle on jack stands (both sides) and remove both wheels
4. After removing the stabilizer shaft links from both lower control arms, remove the bolts holding the stabilizer shaft (stabilizer bar) from the frame. I left the shaft in place - it could be pulled out if needed - more work.
5. Remove the heat shield over the steering gear (or rack) - 10mm.
6. Remove the 2 bolts holding steering gear to the frame - 18mm. Slide steering gear up - only needs to move 1 inch up to be free from frame.
7. Skip removing the pinch bolt at the intermediate steering shaft - too much of a pain to get at. This bolt is installed with lock-tite; no fun to remove.
8. Skip disconnecting the three-way catalytic converter pipe to the right; instead.
9. Slide the exhaust pipe hangers free from the pipe (about mid-way back on the pipe, after the catalytic converter but before the pipe connection). Saves the pain of dealing with rusty bolts.


Engine support fixtures: would be nice to own, not very useful on a Montana. Instead:
1. cut two (2) 2x4's to about 5-feet.
2. screwed together with half-inch spacers between - 3 spaces - one on each end and one in the middle.
3. Cut angle brackets - looks alike a giant door stop to level the 2x4s.
4. Place setup over the front-foward engine lift bracket.
5. Using a left-over steel spacer from a trail hitch install, eye-bolt, short chain, and a s-hook, support the engine. The engine will be lowered later.

This makes bottom side access easy and one less jack in the way.

dcarver
05-30-2007, 08:15 AM
Followup: My wife reports the alignment is off a slight bit - she says "I need to hold the wheel straighter". Considering the frame and steering were detatched, I'm not suprised.

Parts:
- pressure control solenoid or PCS ($35)
- transaxle cover gasket ($35)
- gears/shift accumumlators 1-2 and 2-3 ($11, $22 total)
- filter and pan gasket ($20)
- 7.5 quarts of fluid ($3 per)
- 34mm axel nut socket ($10)
- gasket scraper ($1 - time saver)
- gasket sealer ($4 - bottom pan; between pan/gasket only)

No leaking, no ratting, no ban-aids ... COOL!:sunglasse

Add your comment to this topic!