Alright here is my problem the car has 165,000 miles pretty well maintained everytime I have like more then 2 or more electrical components running after for a certain while my car cuts off an on constantly unless I turn something off to where I'm down to one electrical component running. Like if I have Wipers, radio, and heater going after like 15 minutes or so my car cuts off and on everything goes off... its nothing like a stall. And then I would turn off my radio see if it will stop which it will and then like half an hour or so later it does it again, I turn off my heater that time... and then it stops. I can't really figure out whats wrong with it I don't really wanna take it to any shops.. they are all crooked and cheat you out of your money :), dealerships are to expensive now cost like an arm and a leg to get it fixed there. Anyone have any similiar problems to this? Anyone have any clues what this could be? Its really scary to drive it like that :) especially at night time. I hate driving my friends in it... by the fact it cuts off lol. It would really suck if I cut off in middle of the intersection, or follow someone and then my lights blinker off and on behind them... I know that would really piss them off.. even though im not doing it purposely lol.

Sounds like your alternator is on the way out. Wiggle and feel the Single Main Hot lead connected to it to see if it is hot - that would be a loose connection at that point, or internally on that screw - be gentle with that part - dont tighten too much. Try wiggling it.
Put a tester on the alternator to see if it is pushing over 12 volts. Sometimes if it is charging a low battery you can expect up to 14 volts.
The RPMs may have to be up to about 2 or 3000 before a good charge can be expected.

Hope that helps a bit.
Good luck.

AKA: Mr.Fix-It!

Hey, a lot of problems stem from the ECM (computer) which is located under the passenger wheel well behind the headlight and above a cover from under the car. 2 10ml bolts hold the computer in.
Being in this location it gets a lot of problems with wires chafing and rubbing against things. Check all the wires carefully, as well as the connectors to the computer itself.
This may help a lot of you.
If your car doesnt start at all check the compression, chances are if you overheated your car the head has warped and you have 90lbs in the outside (1 and 4) cylinders and about 20 or 30 in the middle (2 and 3). You can remove the head and have it planed and pressure tested.... 50.00 where I am (Moncton, NB Canada.) $20.00 Can for a headgasket - clean the head bolts and holes well with a straw and Q-tips - get all the water and dirt out..
Get the specs and tighten the head in the proper sequence and steps.
Remove head in proper sequence - Outside to the inside.
The 2.2 is one of the easiest engines to change a head on. Dont have to mess with the timing as its in the block! Just dont overheat it trying to get the air-lock out and use a new thermostat which is located on the left (lower) part of the engine on most models.
Good luck.

Mr.Fix-It!

Welcome to AF. In the future, please look at the date of a post before replying to it. This one is over two years old.


Put a tester on the alternator to see if it is pushing over 12 volts. Sometimes if it is charging a low battery you can expect up to 14 volts.
The RPMs may have to be up to about 2 or 3000 before a good charge can be expected.

If you're not sure of something, don't state it as a fact. We don't need bad information on here. A fully charged battery will be at 12.6V, so checking to see if the system is over 12V will not work. 14V is about what this alternator should charge all the time, not only if the battery is discharged.