92 Tracker, Pulling the Engine

We're about to pull the engine from our 92 Tracker to replace the crankshaft and bearings. We have the shop manuals,etc. and already have experience replacing the clutch. Do any of you have a slick trick, insight or good hints to make this job as painless as possible?

We will be using a matched crankshaft and bearings kit from Checker Auto to avoid the whole micrometer, remachining, plastigauge, etc. routine. While its out we plan to replace the timing belt and address any other details to add longevity to the engine.

Background info: The Tracker was driven about 6 miles on low oil and developed a serious knocking sound, like a deep clunk-clunk, at 2500 rpms and above. There is no knock at idle.

Thanks folks.

We're about to pull the engine from our 92 Tracker to replace the crankshaft and bearings. We have the shop manuals,etc. and already have experience replacing the clutch. Do any of you have a slick trick, insight or good hints to make this job as painless as possible?

We will be using a matched crankshaft and bearings kit from Checker Auto to avoid the whole micrometer, remachining, plastigauge, etc. routine. While its out we plan to replace the timing belt and address any other details to add longevity to the engine.

Background info: The Tracker was driven about 6 miles on low oil and developed a serious knocking sound, like a deep clunk-clunk, at 2500 rpms and above. There is no knock at idle.

Thanks folks.

Here is what I do.
Remove Hood
Disconnect the tranny
Unplug all the wires
Undo coolant lines drain into a pain for recycling
drain oil into pan for recycling
undo intake
remove radiator fan and radiator
undo exhaust
connect motor to cherry picker
undo motormounts
lift motor a couple inches
slide motor forward a couple of inches
then lift it up and out of the engine bay.

Process takes me maybe an hour at the most now.

Thanks for the insights on pulling the engine. Very smooth, easy operation once everything is undone.

We pulled the crankshaft last night and found the bad bearing, #4 connecting rod bearing was essentially wiped out of existence and the crank journal was deeply scored. Within a few days we should have the new crank and bearings in the engine.

2 questions:
1. The Haynes manual says to pre-lub/Moly grease the the bearings before assembly. Due to the wonderful writing found in the manual I am unclear on this. Do I grease both sides of the bearing, e.g. journal side and block/cap side or just the journal side?

2. How do you oil prime this engine prior to starting? My '80 Ford Bronco with 300 L6 is primed by spinning the oil pump with a drill, not so on a Tracker.

Thanks

oil or anything on the back side of a bearing cap would be bad. because it takes space. Begging for trouble.
The bearings need proper and exact clearance.

Before you button it up, take a few minutes and do a plastigage reading on each journal.
all of them !
torgued to spec, remove , read.
Dont let 30minutes and $5, come between success and tears.

Never ever trust the Autozone(or whomever) magic crank trick!
your block may need align boring , and a lot of other reasons for the bearings not fitting properly.
same for rods, write them all (your readings) down on paper and compare to spec. in shop manual.

it does not take very long to do the test !

Not doing this, is just a crap shoot.

PRIME:
plugs out , fresh battery , spin it until you have oil pressure.
1- unplug ignitor harness plug ( kills spark)
2- plugs out ,
3- spin engine with starter motor.
4- see pressure come up. 10psi or more?
id let it rest for 30 minutes and repeat #3 just to be sure.
do this only just before final attempt to light off first time.


recharge battery.
Id do it with the battery charging at same time.

Last:
full of oil, primed , water in block.
start engine. ( I give mine a tiny snort of instant start)
the new kind is safe.)

some cars only run the Fuel pump on Start or running.
this one? ( my 91 FPR is ECU controlled only)
so in that case , I bridge jump the gas pump to get the fuel rail up to pressure.

to do this I pull the fuel pump relay. ( just unplug it)
and jump pin 2 to 4 with IGN sw. to ON.
same relays have diagram on side show the contacts pin 2 and 4.

do not bridge the coil side or you WILL blow the PCM(ecu). The pink wire , do not touch it. (pin 3 relay)

the coil is driven from ignition + and the ECU provides the ground for fuel pump activation ( a transistor switch).

hope this helps.

Thanks for the info on the bearings and priming. I thought that the backs of the bearings should be dry, any pre-lube would certainly make them too high. The Haynes people need to clarify that section of the manual.:screwy:

We've finished cleaning everything and are about to begin reassembly. We'll let everyone know how it goes.

nifty trick for pre-oiling an engine. buy an air charge can and fill with oil, and air charge it. remove the oil pressure sender and insert air can nozzle in hole. shoot in oil. install oil pressure sender. quick and easy.

The crank is back in the engine, finished up last night. All the plastigage came out right on the money. All cap bolts and nuts torqued right up to spec as well. Feels somewhat stiff when turning it over by hand (actually an 8" wrench on the pully bolt). Plugs are out, but I suppose we'll get some resistance from the pistons pushing air in and out and no valve action due to not having the timing belt in yet.

Now for a final check on journal-rod clearances, install the front and rear seals, goop up the pan and button her up. Then we'll flip it over and replace the valve cover gasket and check some things topside as well.

Baumbr,
You seem to love your tracker enough to rebuild the engine. Since my purchase of a used and rather difficult tracker running problems my best purchase was a manuel for the pareticular year and model. I found one on E-Bay, it is the dealer manuel, and is the best source of info anywhere. So try E-bay you might find one. It has a black cover, just like a bible. and has "Dealer Manuel on the front.
If this is not available, then on E-bay there is a guy that sells the manuel on CD. you can look up a section and print it for the particular item you are working on

The engine is back in the Tracker. Here's a hint for manual transmission vehicles to line up the transmission and engine, or more specifically the transmission input shaft and the clutch. I have never seen this trick which my step father showed me in any repair manual.

Once everything's pretty much lined up jack up one of the rear wheels and put some safety supports in place. Leave the transmission in gear. Then while one person jockey's and pushes on the engine another person rocks the jacked up rear tire a few degrees forward and backward. Pretty soon the splines engage and the engine and transmission slide together slick as a whistle.

Also double check your motor mount bolts. We had a couple with mashed, flattened, stripped threads where the mounts had worked against the bolts. Impossible to fully torque after they have been damaged.

Now for the radiator and other incidentals. After that priming the engine and the test of fire.

:grinyes: It's Alive!!! Today we finished hooking up all the parts, primed the engine and fired it off. Few hard cranks at first but now its hunning like new. Thanks to all who offered advice.