1989 grand am engine dies


tspeed
04-19-2007, 09:28 PM
Someone Please help.
I have a 1989 ponitac grand am 2.5l tbi.
When I drive the car and the engine warms up it dies then I have to wait about 5 to 10minutes then it just restarts with no problems.
I have changed the egr valve with a new one.
new: oxygen sensor, fuel injector, alternator, battery,ignition coil, ignition module, crank sensor,valve cover gasket.
I am tired of guessing what makes the car do this.
The guy at autozone told me that it could be the ait. air intake temperature.
Is he right? The car only dies when the engine is warmed up. Could this engine just be vapor locking? The engine has a Throttle body not a carburetor?
If my problem is vapor lock, what do I do to fix this problem?
He also told me that it could be the idle control valve.

Any help with this will be greatly apprecited, as I am running out of money for parts.
thanks in advance.
Troy

grandma
04-19-2007, 10:44 PM
Maybe during warm up the car's ECU isn't able to go from warm up mode into regular driving mode? THe intake air sensor isn't expensive so it could be worth a shot. Is the car leaking anywhere? Besides this does the car make any "funny" out of the ordinary noises? have you tried swapping the ECU with one of the same motor from the junk yard just to see if it could be an ECU issue? have you inspected the wiring under hood to make sure nothing is frayed or looking "damaged"? Does this happen absolutely EVERYTIME you start up the car cold? When the car is all warmed up and you start it up from oh say going to the convenience store does it display the same symptoms?

xeroinfinity
04-20-2007, 12:54 AM
Welcome to AF tspeed !

Like grandma said check the wiring and circuits, especially the crankshaft position sensor wires ;)

Have you replaced your fuel filter recently, like the past 30k miles ?
If its clogged it can cause simular problems.

tspeed
04-20-2007, 05:03 PM
when I step on the brakes it sounds like I have a duck in the dashboard.
I think I might have a bad power booster. Would this make the car die when it warms up then hard to start and have to wait 5 to ten minutes for it to cool down to restart? thanks

xeroinfinity
04-20-2007, 05:38 PM
That it could if thier is fluid being drawn into the intake from the bad booster.

You can check the vacum line from the booster, follow it to the intake and remove it. Look to see if any brake fluid is leaking.

THough the no start till it cools down sounds like an electrical gremlin.
So the crank position sensor was replaced?
Or was it the cam sensor?

tspeed
04-22-2007, 02:06 PM
It was the crankshaft sensor, this car does not have a cam sensor, the crank sensor was replaced with the ignition controll module as it attaches to the back of the module and the crank sensor goes inside the engine block.

xeroinfinity
04-22-2007, 09:12 PM
It was the crankshaft sensor, this car does not have a cam sensor, the crank sensor was replaced with the ignition controll module as it attaches to the back of the module and the crank sensor goes inside the engine block.

I was aware of no cam:uhoh:
So are you saying it was the CPS that was bad causing the no start ???

tspeed
04-23-2007, 10:23 PM
sorry what I meant it has the crankshaft position sensor. I still am unsure of what is wrong with it. I have replaced the air charge sensor in the intake and the engine has not died on me yet.
Hope this is it I will drive it this weekend and see.
thanks.
Troy

xeroinfinity
04-23-2007, 11:01 PM
Like grandma said check the wiring and circuits, especially the crankshaft position sensor wires

Have you replaced your fuel filter recently, like the past 30k miles ?
If its clogged it can cause simular problems.


Hope this gets it.

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