98 ply voyager gauge cluster prob and won't start


sj28henry
04-16-2007, 01:10 PM
Great forum you got here. Very helpful. I have some problems with a 98 plymouth voyager 3.3L V6. A few days after I bought it, I started having the same problems a lot of people have with the Chrysler vans. The instument panel would die (no speed, tach, gear selector, temp, or fuel) and the ABS, Alarm Set, and Check Engine lights all come on. I have pulled the IOD fuse several times and this only fixes the problem for a little bit. I disconnected the postive post and put a test light on and the light comes on signaling draining of the battery with the ingnition off. I have replaced the EATX shutdown relay and still same problems. I took the Auto Shudown relay out and the light went off, but when I put it back in the van just turns over repeatedly. Any suggestions to give me and does anyone know what the Auto Shutdown relay does? Please help. I need the van for my 4 kids to get around!!! :banghead:

RIP
04-16-2007, 02:16 PM
Your check engine light indicates the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) may have set a fault code. Next time you see the light, you can either do the key cycle trick or connect a scanner to read the codes. Autozone will do it for free. The code may lead you to the problem area.

If pulling the IOD fuse fixes everything, at least momentarily, I would look towards the Body Control Module (BCM). Reseating this fuse resets the BCM. The BCM controls nearly all the electronics in the van. Check the connection for corrosion and security. If all is well look around for a new one. They can be had for $100 at a junkyard to $250-$300 on the internet, or $300-$400 from the dealer. There are also companies that will fix your BCM. Some model years have several different BCMs so make sure you get the exact same part number replacement. For obvious reasons, replacing the BCM should be a last resort.

Have you tried smacking the top of the dash? If that corrects anything you could have a bad connection or bad solder joints on the instrument cluster itself. I'm stretching my memory but, I seem to recall something about a connector behind the ventilation control panel that has something to do with your issues.

The ASD relay disables the ignition coil; fuel injectors; and fuel pump via the fuel pump relay in the event of a loss of signal from the cam or crankshaft sensors. If the ASD relay is not energised, your van will crank all day without starting. The PCM looks for data from the sensors. If it's there, it energises the ASD relay. It supplies the ground path to the coil, injectors, and pump relay.

sj28henry
04-16-2007, 05:27 PM
Thanks a lot!!! I've replaced the ASD relay and the van started right up. I've tried smacking the dash and that doesn't work. I'll make it over to autozone next time that happens and see what codes come up. I've also got a problem with the a/c lights flashing. Any ideas on that?

RIP
04-17-2007, 12:50 AM
Try this: Start the van and turn on the blower. Simultaneously push the top and bottom wiper buttons on the left side of the ventilation control panel for 5 seconds. All the lights on the panel will light up. Then two lights on the left side will alternately flash for about two minutes and you'll hear the ventilation modes cycle. When just the top light on the left side slowly flashes push that button and you're done. All lights should be out and you should be back to normal. Restart the van a few times and make sure. This is the ventilation control calibration test and it resets the ventilation system computer.

teredwards
04-18-2007, 08:12 PM
I have the flashing a/c lights and did the the ventilation calibrations, but when I press the last button the A/C lights start flashing again. Problem started after a dead battery was replaced. Any ideas?

sj28henry
04-19-2007, 04:51 AM
I've got the same thing. Did the test and everything went fine. When the last button was pressed, the a/c and recirculation light started flashing and now do it all the time.

RIP
04-19-2007, 02:25 PM
Something here may help :http://www.allpar.com/fix/codes-climate.html

It appears it's failing the cooldown test. I've scoured my bookmarks and the net and can't find it but, I remember reading something about if this is failing try heating the interior before attempting the test. Not sure why but, worth a try.

Edit - Got these using the search function. Take some time and read through these. Your answer could be there.
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/search.php?searchid=1881094

sj28henry
04-19-2007, 05:51 PM
Thanx. I'll try this. couldn't get the link to go through but I'll try to look it up. Thanks for all you've done for me.

teredwards
04-22-2007, 11:04 PM
Thanks for your reply.
I had to replace the hvac control unit assembly a few months ago.
(The unit that contains the fan switch, vent switch, a\c switch, wiper switch, etc)
I put the old one back in and it finishes the calibration ok.
The problem with the old unit is it won't turn on the A\C compressor.
Does anyone have a schematic for this control unit board?

sj28henry
04-23-2007, 06:05 PM
As far as the check engine light goes, I took it to Autozone and had it hooked up to the computer. It gave a manufacturer code of 1498. The employee told me that I would have to get a diagnostic test done because they didn't know that code. They recommended me to someone down the street, but I haven't gone yet. Does anyone know what that code 1498 is?

RIP
04-24-2007, 02:11 AM
Type P1498 here: http://www.iequus.com/support/obd2_definitions.php Based on the Chrysler definition it's a cooling fan relay circuit error code. If you're not having overheat problems, you can probably disregard it for now.

sj28henry
04-24-2007, 07:03 AM
Thanks a lot. You guys have saved me a lot of money!!!!!

sj28henry
04-30-2007, 04:33 PM
Got a new problem that's happening more often. It happened once on Saturday. Went to start the van and it starts then dies. A few times like that then it just won't do anything. I don't know what I did to solve the problem, but I pulled a few fuses and disconnected the battery. It still took about five minutes after hooking everything back up for it to decide to start and after that, it run fine. Now, I come home from work for a few and when I went to leave and it did it again. I finally got it to start after reading about some people having a problem with a loose solder joint inside the dash. I went out and hit the dash and it started right up. That means that is my problem, right? Does anyone know exactly what joint that is that's always loose?

pentabob
05-04-2007, 05:50 AM
sj28henry,
when i took mine apart i took some pictures, they are pretty big so i posted them on my wifes web site (with her permission of course) the site is www.ingriddijkers.com enter the site and go to the links page, on the bottom right hand side you will see a link to "caravan pics", click that, those are the pictures i have, if you click on them they will enlarge so you can see more detail, you'll notice that the solder joints look fine, it's not until you put heat to them (at least with mine and many others) that you will find its more of a solder bubble rather than a solid solder connection, hope this helps,

best of luck,
get back and let us know how it turns out,
pentabob
bob white
michigan

sj28henry
05-05-2007, 02:09 AM
Thanks. Did you do this yourself? Is it hard? Thinking of trying to takle it myself but only know a little about working on cars.

RIP
05-05-2007, 02:54 AM
pentabob That's a nice set of pics. Any chance you could put them in the gallery section on the forum? All around, it would just be easier for all to access. Cheers!

RIP
05-05-2007, 03:04 AM
I finally got it to start after reading about some people having a problem with a loose solder joint inside the dash. I went out and hit the dash and it started right up. That means that is my problem, right? Does anyone know exactly what joint that is that's always loose?

Was that from the third paragraph on my first post?

Yes, this is likely your problem. Neanderthal tactics do work sometimes. Somewhere on this forum someone submitted pictures of a cluster circuit board clearly showing the location of the bad solder joint that causes this problem. I'll be damned if I can find it now. ITS THERE SOMEWHERE! If you decide to rip into this, please take pictures, especially if you see the bad solder joint. Make sure you look at the contacts on the connector too. I've read about bad contacts there. This is a problem plaguing many.

pentabob
05-05-2007, 06:06 AM
Yes, I did it myself, I found it pretty easy, but if you feel un-easy at all about it you may want to have it done, as with any "Do it yourself" project you can end up worse off than when you started. There is some re-soldering you will have to do on a printed circuit board, so if you are uncomfortable with that aspect you could always farm that portion out and do the removal and reinstall yourself(?)
Good luck, Keep us posted
Bob

pentabob
05-05-2007, 06:13 AM
Hi RIP, Thanks
I'll be glad to try to put the pics there, is there anything special I will need to do or is there an image size i need to get to before putting them there?
today is Saturday, lots going on but I will try to get them there today or tomorrow
thanks again
Bob

pentabob
05-07-2007, 05:47 AM
Hi again everyone,
Couldnt get the pics posted to the gallery yet, but here is a direct link to the pics rather than going through the whole rest of the site to get to them

http://ingriddijkers.com/CaravanPics.html

Bob

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