Our Community is 705,000 Strong. Join Us.
how to bleed brakes.
04-04-2007, 10:42 PM
Hi everyone, this will be my first post but I ahve been lurking around the site for a few days now. I recently acquired a 97 taurus gl. I dont know much about the car. The engine is in great shape, has 80k. brake line was shot so i replaced it. Bleeding the brakes was a pain in the rear and I dont think I did it properly. I had my brother pumped the brakes while i bled the rear-right, then rear left, then front right, and finally front left. I made sure there was no bubble. I also made sure that the fluid that came out was nice and clear. I used a lot of brake fluid in the proccess but my brakes still do not function as it should. It is a bit spongy and when i step on the brake to simulate a sudden stop, is weak. I feel like it has a second delay before the brakes gets a stronger grip. I'm thinking of bringing it to the pro's but thought of asking here first and see if anyone can shed some info.
Thakns in advance.
PS: does the 97 havea rev limiter in neutral? My needle wont go above 3800 rpms but is fine during normal driving.
04-05-2007, 02:37 AM
I used the forum Search engine on the top right and punched in "bleed brakes." No doubt you have air in the system and I'd get that corrected before driving it in traffic or you could have an accident.
Hope you get it corrected and welcome to the forum.
04-05-2007, 06:17 PM
As for a rev-limiter in neutral (and park), yes, there is one. I thought it was more like 3500 rpm, but it depends on how straight you are looking at the tachometer needle. :)
04-06-2007, 12:15 AM
Thanks for the reply. You are correct, the rev limiter activates at 3500 rpms. I first I thought it was the plugs so i bought new ones but no change. I later found out about the rev limiter.
Hey shorod, what else would you suggest for a maintenance on this car? So far I changed oil, air filter, fuel filter. Thinking about replacing the rear drums as they are heavily rusted and might be the cause of my brakes being a little weak and unresponsive. Although I have no error codes/CEL, I am pondering on replacing the O2 sensors. If I remember correctly, over time they wear out and are responsible for low gas mileage. Down the line I would like to replace the trans oil/filter. I am 100% positive the trans oil/filter has not been changed. Just want to make sure the car last for a few more years.
Thanks in advance.
04-06-2007, 02:26 PM
I think your money would be better spent on the transmission fluid and filter change now rather than replacing the oxygen (O2) sensors. The cost of the transmission service will probably be similar to what you'd spend for the 4 oxygen sensors. With 80k, if the engine is running well, the sensors should be good for about 20k more miles.
You may want to consider picking up a can of CRC Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor cleaner and the security Torx tool to remove it. A dirty MAF can contribute to low fuel economy as well.
I doubt the rear drums would be the casue of weak and unresponsive brakes. That is more likely due to the brake fluid or air in the lines, or possibly rear brake shoes that need to be adjusted. Also, I've found that the economy brake pads are much less effective than the mid to higher grade brake pads. In my mind, the mid to high pads are WELL WORTH the $20 or so more!
04-06-2007, 10:24 PM
Thanks for the tips. Yes the engine is running very well. I am going to replace the trans fluid as it has never been done before.
Automotive Network, Inc., Copyright ©2013