Changing Front wheel bearing

My front wheel bearing on my 2002 windstar is howling. Had to buy entire front hub bearing assembly. Is there any special tricks to changing? What is the torque spec for the actual drive shaft nut & is there a special procedure to tighten this drive shaft nut?
Thanks.

First, buy a repair manual, Haynes or equivalent. It's a fairly straight forward job. You have to remove the brake caliper, control arms, tie rods, stabilizer bars, etc. Most requiring special tools or a BFH. Then put it all back together and get the front end aligned.

whats bfh?

Big Flippin Hammer.
Or as I like to call it, the Ford diagnostic tool!

I belive he was referring to the Break Free Handle.

Easy to use... just wrap it around the "thingamajig" and then pull on the "whatyoumightcallit" untill the "whatsitsname" breaks free.

hi I just did this job myself....its not too bad hub spindle nut torque is 157 to 212 thats what the hayes manual said...while the tire is still on ground, loosen hub nut...raise and take wheel off.Next take caliper off and bracket that holds caliper to the steering kuckle. you need to do this to get the rotor off. after the rotor is off, take hub nut off and then take pinch bolt out of bottom ball joint. and open the pinch up a little with a screw driver then take a long pry bar/pipe and pry lower control arm down until the ball joint comes out..then get a three arm puller (you can rent these at autozone, as well as the 30mm socket for the hub nut and a torque ratchet that goes to 200 or 250 ft pds) you need this to push the axle shaft out of the hub.....then you can pull the strut foward and get the axle spindle out. be careful not to over extend the cv joints. now you can get to the three bolts from behind that hold the hub to the knuckle

now the hub can be a bit stubborn, I used a cold chisel to wedge in the hub /steering knuckle crack and the hub moved a bit and then got easier and fell out. you may have to clean the opening with wire brush or sand paper to clean it up....then bolt new hub...I used a little lock tight on the bolts... then push spindle into hub and put washer and nut on and start to tighten nut to draw spindle into hub .I drew it up about half way then I slipped ball joint back into place..then it was a matter or reassemble... finish drawing spindle with hub bolt, dont torque final torque until tire is on and on the ground......bolt in ball joint...rotor and caliper bracket.....caliper and tire....any questions??

by the way...I torqued my hub in the middle...about 195 ft pds and if you use the same nut ( which is ok) put some lock tight on four or five treads I also was careful not to let the caliper hang ( wire it up to the coil spring) and try to keep the axle on the control arm( not to hang as well as to extend it to far ) I actually wired mine to the control arm so I wouldnt bump it off.kinda cramped down there

Just had this problem diagnosed on my 02...my Haynes manual has nothing on it other than it requires "special expertise to press the hub and bearing from the steering knuckle, this job should be left to a professional mechanic."

No help there!

The mechanic I had take the van for a drive to diagnose it, said it was no big deal to change and I should have no trouble doing it myself, if I want.

Just had this problem diagnosed on my 02...my Haynes manual has nothing on it other than it requires "special expertise to press the hub and bearing from the steering knuckle, this job should be left to a professional mechanic."

No help there!

The mechanic I had take the van for a drive to diagnose it, said it was no big deal to change and I should have no trouble doing it myself, if I want.

All you need is a hub remover/installer, I think you can rent it at autoparts stores, I have uploaded an image showing the procedure.

Best regards,

Oscar.

This comes straight from the Service Manual:

Install Hub Remover/Installer (T81P-1104-C) and Adapters (T83P-1104-BH1 and T86P- 1104-A1). See Fig. 7 . Support axle shaft. Push CV joint outer shaft until its free of hub, bearing and knuckle assembly. Remove and discard strut-to-steering knuckle bolt. Remove the steering knuckle. Remove and discard 3 hub retaining bolts. Remove wheel hub. Wheel hub is a slip-fit design and should not require a puller to remove.

Installation
CAUTION: Front axle wheel hub retainer nut must be tightened to specification immediately during installation. If retainer is not tightened immediately, nylon lock will set incorrectly, leading to incorrect torque readings and bearing failure. Any front wheel hub retainer that is not immediately tightened to specification or is loosened must be removed and a NEW retainer installed.
1. To install, reverse removal procedure. Position ball stud groove so bolt can be installed without forcing. Install NEW fasteners for all items except brake rotor and caliper.
2. Apply Loctite 242 (WSK-M2G351-A5) to last 5 front wheel axle shaft joint threads prior to installing axle wheel hub retainer nut. Tighten all fasteners to specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS .

PS. Figure 7 is the same image uploaded in my previous post.

thanks for the info olopezm, I just don't get this remove and discard thing with the various bolts and nuts, in my experience most of the time the bolt are still in fine shape. I seen a youtube video where the guy just used the axle hub retainer nut to draw the unit back together (same one he had removed).

Not sure how lucky I will be finding that exact puller in my town. Hope don't have to buy one, for seen one in Canadian Tire for use on Ford Escort, Probe, Lynx vehicles, but it was almost the cost of the actual bearing!

Not to worry, you can get creative in case you don't have the puller, I know people who uses a piece of wood and a mallet to take it out (it's not a good idea, you might damage something) as noted in the service manual the hub is a slip-fit design and should not require a puller to remove. So you can give it a try and if things get complicated look for the puller.

Best regards,

Oscar.

Just located a pretty good vid on youtube for a 01 and all he used was a punch and impact gun...prolly left out the torquing for simplicity (I would hope...lol) but sure makes it look simple.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aDF74BgYmhw

I imagine any type of bearing grease would be fine to put on the new bearing / knuckle area?

That looks like it, just make sure you don't push too hard on the spindle and specially MAKE SURE YOU USE THE PROPER TORQUE.

Oscar.

So using the old nuts and bolts is ok, as long as they are not damaged?

Yes that's correct, as long as they are not damaged you'll be fine, on the grease thing try high temp wheel bearing grease.

Best regards,

Oscar.

By the way, you might be able to find the puller in this place, there seems to be a store where you live, they even have a Loan-a-tool program, you can rent the puller, return it and get your money back!

http://www.partsource.ca/

Man you late model guys (2000 and up) have it easy

On my 96 the bearing is pressed into the kunckle and the hub presses into the bearing. No cartridge with 3 bolts, strickly a press job. Was lots of fun postioning the entire kunckle in the press.

What is the size of the wheel bearing spindle nut? You would think that repair manuals like Haynes would have a listing of all the various nut and bolt sizes, especially the larger or odd ball sizes that the average joe might not have and would need to pick up. Tell me that would not be convenient...

What is the size of the wheel bearing spindle nut? You would think that repair manuals like Haynes would have a listing of all the various nut and bolt sizes, especially the larger or odd ball sizes that the average joe might not have and would need to pick up. Tell me that would not be convenient...

IIRC, it's 28mm, deep socket. I bought one when I did the bearings on my 2001 in early January.

The local CanTire also rents the puller...VERY helpful!

It looks like you're in the same North Bay as I am. I can lend a hand if necessary.

IIRC, it's 28mm, deep socket. I bought one when I did the bearings on my 2001 in early January.

The local CanTire also rents the puller...VERY helpful!

It looks like you're in the same North Bay as I am. I can lend a hand if necessary.

28mm...I searched and found 30 mm on answer.com, so on way over to crappy tire for the stuff, I tried to get my digital calipers on the nut...was kind of awkward but it looked like 30 was about right, so thats what I got.

Thanks for the offer of assistance, I usually try to recruit the boy to help me, to give him some sort of work experience :rolleyes: (18 and has no interest in anything other than video games...)

28mm...I searched and found 30 mm on answer.com, so on way over to crappy tire for the stuff, I tried to get my digital calipers on the nut...was kind of awkward but it looked like 30 was about right, so thats what I got.

Thanks for the offer of assistance, I usually try to recruit the boy to help me, to give him some sort of work experience :rolleyes: (18 and has no interest in anything other than video games...)

Seems you got everything and it's now all up to you, good luck! I hope everything goes smooth.

It's a good thing you ask your son for help, that's the way I learned much about I currently know about cars, by working with my dad, we had lots of good time working on cars together my dad, my brother and me...

It reminds me of my cousin, he only cares about video games, only he's 26 :uhoh:

Best regards,

Oscar.

After dinner, will head back to the store and see about exchanging the socket for a smaller one...for there is a little bit of play in it...and don't want to wreck the nut. Serve me right for not taking two seconds in the parking lot and checking if it was the right size...ah well.

I had asked at the part counter about rental of the puller but it is already loaned out. Will try to pull in the bearing with the axle nut like in that video...

After dinner, will head back to the store and see about exchanging the socket for a smaller one...for there is a little bit of play in it...and don't want to wreck the nut. Serve me right for not taking two seconds in the parking lot and checking if it was the right size...ah well.

I had asked at the part counter about rental of the puller but it is already loaned out. Will try to pull in the bearing with the axle nut like in that video...

If you haven't gone already, there would likely be a different person at the parts desk now. If you asked, they'd likely look again for you. I believe I had kit #5, as molded into the case. It did everything I needed of it.

Went back to exchange the 30 mm socket and wouldn't ya know it...no such thing as a 28mm, not even an empty spot for them. Checked both the Powerbuilt section and over in regular tools. Then attempted to find a comparable SAE socket...well only one close was 1 3/16" and it really fits as sloppily as the 30 mm one did. Will try Browns and Maslack tomorrow morning on way over to the shop to start the job.

Went back to exchange the 30 mm socket and wouldn't ya know it...no such thing as a 28mm, not even an empty spot for them. Checked both the Powerbuilt section and over in regular tools. Then attempted to find a comparable SAE socket...well only one close was 1 3/16" and it really fits as sloppily as the 30 mm one did. Will try Browns and Maslack tomorrow morning on way over to the shop to start the job.

I should have mentioned the socket wasn't located in regular tools. It's in Automotive. My mistake.

Now that they've changed everything around, I'm not 100% sure where they'll have it, but there IS a black (impact looking) socket available at automotive that fit my van perfectly. It used to be in the same aisle as all the specialty tools, and likely still is. Please don't quiz me on where that is anymore, since I haven't bought anything at CanTire since I did my wheel bearing.

First thing in the morning, I'll go to my tools (they're where I park the DeLorean....yes, I'm that guy if you've seen it around town...), verify exactly what I have and report back to you. The offer still stands for a helping hand, or even to just borrow the dang socket. You've done enough running around already by listening to me.


***SATURDAY MORNING EDIT***

Sitting in my van on wi-fi at my garage. My hub nut socket is a 30mm. Yes there is a small amount of play, but it is ultimately what I used. I worked carefully, using a torque wrench, and did not compromise the hub nut.

I should have mentioned the socket wasn't located in regular tools. It's in Automotive. My mistake.

Now that they've changed everything around, I'm not 100% sure where they'll have it, but there IS a black (impact looking) socket available at automotive that fit my van perfectly. It used to be in the same aisle as all the specialty tools, and likely still is. Please don't quiz me on where that is anymore, since I haven't bought anything at CanTire since I did my wheel bearing.

First thing in the morning, I'll go to my tools (they're where I park the DeLorean....yes, I'm that guy if you've seen it around town...), verify exactly what I have and report back to you. The offer still stands for a helping hand, or even to just borrow the dang socket. You've done enough running around already by listening to me.


***SATURDAY MORNING EDIT***

Sitting in my van on wi-fi at my garage. My hub nut socket is a 30mm. Yes there is a small amount of play, but it is ultimately what I used. I worked carefully, using a torque wrench, and did not compromise the hub nut.

I got the job done, turns out it was a 29mm socket required...nice and snug. Got it at Carquest for $20. Cory, you sure did get lucky, for that nut was on there! I used a power bar and a piece of pipe, my POS Mastercraft Air Impact gun wouldn't even budge it. I can actually grab the socket on the airgun and stop it from turning...

When got back to torquing the three bearing bolts down, I realized that Haynes did not give these specs...(for it was too technical a job for a DIY'er ya know), so had to set it to the German specs :)

this job is easier than it sounds on paper...just follow my instructions......

By the way, you might be able to find the puller in this place, there seems to be a store where you live, they even have a Loan-a-tool program, you can rent the puller, return it and get your money back!

May as well buy it, a good 3-prong "spider" puller is about 30$ and can be used for a multitude of tasks instead of a hammer, less risk of damage.

Now I change wheel bearings myself but the first time I had to do it on a front wheel I took it to my mechanic's just to see how they'd do it. He let a young intern do it and after I watched him hit the inner fender twice with a hammer trying to loosen the hub I offered him the puller, and the kid had no idea what he was supposed to do with it! Dunno what they teach them in auto mechanics but I had to teach him how to use this tool.

I don't know why Haynes refers to a puller as a specialized tool, to me it should be standard-issue to any weekend mechanic.

When I did this job on our '01, I didn't remove the spindle, or struts or anything like that.
IIRC (it's been a couple years), after removing the caliper and rotor, I loosened the hub nut almost all the way, then took a piece of 2x4 and a 4lb sledge and beat the axle back through the bearing. When the nut touched the hub, I removed the three bolts and nut, and with a little more hammering, wiggled the axle the rest of the way off, and the cartridge fell out in my hand.
The toughest part (other than swinging the sledge) was worrying if the cartridge was going to be stuck in the spindle due to corrosion, but both slipped right out/in.

I hope I remembered that right, because it was a lot easier than what you guys are talking about.

The reason why we have to take apart the front suspension is to gain access to one of the three bolts that are holding the hub in place.

When I did this job on our '01, I didn't remove the spindle, or struts or anything like that.
IIRC (it's been a couple years), after removing the caliper and rotor, I loosened the hub nut almost all the way, then took a piece of 2x4 and a 4lb sledge and beat the axle back through the bearing. When the nut touched the hub, I removed the three bolts and nut, and with a little more hammering, wiggled the axle the rest of the way off, and the cartridge fell out in my hand.
The toughest part (other than swinging the sledge) was worrying if the cartridge was going to be stuck in the spindle due to corrosion, but both slipped right out/in.



I think you may have "spindle" confused with "knuckle". Since there is no spindle in a front wheel drive wheel bearing. The "cartridge" would be referred to as the Hub/bearing assembly. I know it's nit picky and I mean no disrespect. Just wanted to make sure everyone is on the same page.

Hi there. I'm looking into changing out the front bearings on my 2002 windstar.

I'm pretty sure I'm going to want to do new rotors and pads while I'm in there too.

I'm not a mechanic, but learning a lot from you guys. Couple of questions...

Father in law thinks I should be able to buy just the bearings, but autozone only sells a bearing/hub combo. I checked a couple other places, and I think the OP on this thread said they had to do a combo too... is that the case? looks like $83 each.

What is this "puller" you guys are talking about for $30 (and can be used for other stuff somebody said). Can somebody send me a link, or a picture? I'd invest the $30 if I knew what else it could do for me. I have an F-150 as well, would it be useful there? If not, I will look at renting something from AutoZone.

If I'm going to do rotors too, does that simplify for increase the challenge in the project, or make no real difference?

And then it looks like i should get an alignment after I'm done, is that accurate?

Thanks in advance!

Farns

The windstar wheel bearing is sealed into the hub assembly; it can't be pressed out/in. It's just how it's designed. Personally, I prefer that anyway as it eliminates bringing the hub or knuckle to a machine shop and having to pay them to press in the new bearing for you. I'm not nearly advanced enough nor have the tools to do that myself.

You can rent the hub puller from autozone for free.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/OEM-FWD-Hub-Puller/_/N-264n?itemIdentifier=2050_0_0_

It prevents you from having to beat on the axle to get it out of the hub. Although it's been done that way many times before, the service manual specifically, IN BOLD, says not to hammer the axle. I tend to follow those instructions when it could result in damaging the transmission.

Rotors can be easily swapped while you're doing this - you just have to move the brake caliper out of the way.

You shouldn't need an alignment as replacing a bearing wouldn't change the toe angle.

Father in law thinks I should be able to buy just the bearings, but autozone only sells a bearing/hub combo. I checked a couple other places, and I think the OP on this thread said they had to do a combo too... is that the case? looks like $83 each.

Second-generation Winnies (99-03) front wheels have sealed bearings, rear wheel bearings can be pressed in but not worth the trouble. OEM front wheel bearings sell for about $50 each, on a vehicle with expired warranty you do not need to use Motorcraft bearings which are more expensive.

What is this "puller" you guys are talking about for $30 (and can be used for other stuff somebody said). Can somebody send me a link, or a picture? I'd invest the $30 if I knew what else it could do for me. I have an F-150 as well, would it be useful there?The proper name for this tool is gear-puller, 3-prong models are often called a "spider". It is very useful in a multitude of applications, I always carry mine in my vehicle. Last time I used it was to pull out a rear wheel which had a flat tire and wouldn't budge even when whacked with a hammer. I suppose a sledge would've worked as well but the risk of causing damage is much higher.

If I'm going to do rotors too, does that simplify for increase the challenge in the project, or make no real difference?Rotors are a breeze :smile:

And then it looks like i should get an alignment after I'm done, is that accurate?It is recommended but not absolutely required if the tie-rod ends remained locked during the procedure. See how it handles and then decide.

Well, cruising through this, but I've hit a wall. 1am, I'm too tired to continue. So far it's been pretty easy. I rented a 30mm axle socket and a breaker bar from AutoZone. I have got to get me my own breaker bar! WOW.

I've been following this video which is a 2001:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aDF74BgYmhw

One difference so far... on his, he removes the caliper bracket and off comes the rotor. Mine had three Torx screws holding it to the hub. Took me a minute to notice that. So the rotor is off, and I think I may have bad memory on that.... I swear we were on a trip 3 years ago, and my rotors started grinding. We stopped in the next town and my memory of that event was they were able to turn them, but said that was the last they'd be able to be turned. They put in new pads and off we went. I do NOT recall servicing the pads or rotors since that time. I put the old next to the new one, edge to edge, and there MAY be a 1/16" difference between them. That would suggest my rotors are fine, eh? I think I'll take them over to Big-O in the morning for their opinion. We get some pretty hefty shaking when we brake, so we were thinking dead rotors... Maybe not?

I've removed the 18mm bolt that holds on the piece of suspension that we have to remove. The YouTube video shows using a pry bar to pop it out, nice and easy.... I can't get it to budge. Is the only thing holding that in, just the friction of that 18mm bolt clamping the metal bracket around it? That seems scary. I see now, watching the vid again, that he applied leverage in a different angle than I was... so I will try that in the morning. I just wanted to see if any of you guys had any tips for that part of the operation.

At any rate, I'm pretty happy with how it's going. I'm slow at this, but I enjoy the quiet (4 kids are sleeping!) and just plinking away at this project. I haven't even cussed once!

.......
It prevents you from having to beat on the axle to get it out of the hub. Although it's been done that way many times before, the service manual specifically, IN BOLD, says not to hammer the axle. I tend to follow those instructions when it could result in damaging the transmission.

You shouldn't need an alignment as replacing a bearing wouldn't change the toe angle......

Just bears repeating. No where in power train repair is a hammer needed. Now maybe for body/fender repair .... but not power train.

Got the passenger side done A-OK. Now I'm on the driver's side, just removed the lower control arm. There's a black rubber boot around that, and it's torn up pretty bad. Now I'm trying to figure out if I'm going to be in over my head trying to fix that, or if I need to worry about it, or what...

well, all done! I decided to go ahead and replace the lower control arm. Just don't wanna have to do this again down the road. So new bearings/hubs, and new rotors. Left the brake pads, lots of life left. took a few laps around the neighborhood and it feels fine . I'm going to get it up to freeway speeds later today and see how that goes. I didn't notice any shaking on the braking, but I didn't really get it up that fast.

Once again, this forum has saved my bacon. I really appreciate all you guys!!!