04-01-2007, 12:25 PM
Let me tell you a little bit before i get in to details , my ecu had been chipped with one of those spoon chips . Vtec cut in a 2500 and rev limiter was at 8500 . Advanced the timing curve and disabled the knock sensor .
Well after the turbo kit was installed completely . The final excitment of hearing it run , well didnt get a perfect start up, it starts right up then dies. After pedaling it with the fuel it will stay alive . Then the check engine light comes on , after that , the car will stay runnning. rev up and turbo sounds good , . well taking it for the first test drive . easy on it at first , just to make sure i wasnt going to blow up or anything . When i cracked down on it , was slower than it was before , didnt even feel like the vtec was kickin in , like running with no vtec ? im at a lost here . im not sure if i got the vaccum lines mixed up or what ??? I ran the fm2 wires to all the specified locations . but when running down the road the turbo sounds great , spooling its ass off , is it possible being the o2 sensor is bad and isnt reading the air fuel mixture properly and casuing top end lag
The codes that i got out of the ecu from the check engine light were a code 3 for the map sensor , thats most likely from not having the missing link to install , the other code was a 41 which is the oxygen sensor heater. . a new sensor might be needed or im thinking that the car cant run 109 octane with out the proper ecu with dyno tune.
I have never used or installed a MF2 programmer before . Read the directions carefully and soltered all the connections , even got the CHILTON manual out for the wiring diagrams to make DAMN sure that is was the right wire .
Now , since there is no missing link installed, its very posssible that the map sensor on the hondas can not read boost but im not too sure about that , thats why they make the missing link ? I thought hondas ecu couldnt read boost, someone told me they can up to 10 psi .
But why am i getting a code 41 and thats the o2 sensor , o2 sensor was working just fine before the install , came out with a little struggle . well there was never any antisieze on the threads before it was installed , well so in order to get the o2 out we had to throw a little heat to break the metal lose . Is it some way that the o2 sensor got to hot from the torch and is now fried, thats why the car doesnt want to start nor keep running. Until after many repeats of pedaling the gas. Pops up the check engine light and boom !!! shes reving like a champ . But there is lack of acceleration and no vtec , there should still be the vtec operating. Top end is horrible , but there is boost , turbo is sounding good and blow off valve is working great. Just no power , well i m thinking and just getting a new o2 to install to see if that was the problem , hate to spend someone elses money . 129 for o2 sensor and thats not from Honda dealership .
ok i spent the 129 for the o2 sensor and installed it , well nothing is changed , still not wanting to stay running or even start now , i just dont get it . Could the missing link play a factor in the car not starting of the MF2 module not operating , once i got the car started and took out one of the injectors and it wasnt spraying any fuel , im wondering if the MF2 module isnt working or maybe the wire to the key on 12v isnt on the right wire , but i dont understand , its with the wire that my rpm tack is running and it cuts on as soon as you cut the key on to run the radio . OK so if the MF2 wire was connected to the map sensor and it not being powered , would that ot make the car want to start , i have done alot of reading about honda turbos but some how im lost here , vaccum checks out , blow off valve is working and wastegate is dumping. just had one line mixed up .
04-01-2007, 01:01 PM
There's a few problems with your setup. 1st, what the hell is a MF2 fuel module? You need to get rid of that chipped ecu and get some real engine management. Changing the rev limiter, vtec engagement, and advancing timing like that is not the way to go. VTEC should never be engaged that low, no matter what your setup is. It simply won't make power that low. Reving that much higher isn't making you faster, it's putting more wear and tear on your engine internals. And advancing timing on a turbo setup? Turbo setups tend to like retarded timing (tend to, not always), but they should never be advanced like a NA setup. And having 2 injectors before the throttle body isn't helping much other than to spray fuel, that's not going to burn, onto everything. Get rid of all that stuff. Get a good engine management system; hondata, chrome, neptune, uberdata, aem ems. Get bigger injectors (4 of them to replace the stock ones). Take the car to a professional tuner and have them tune everything properly, and expect to pay even more $ ($60+ per hour) for troubleshooting. That is the correct way to turbocharge a car.
04-03-2007, 06:29 PM
Bump to civic spoon.
havent been around honda's for a while but they are actually still selling those spoon ecu's? man you need to ditch that ecu and get your car dyno tuned using the original P28, and pick you up some DSM 450cc injectors for 70 bucks and be done...
04-03-2007, 10:27 PM
I'm not really sure if they still make them or not, I see them on sites every once and a while. But most of the "Spoon" ecus are just stock ecu's with the generic e-bay chips (like hondaburner has). They're usually no where close to the actual fuel and ignition timing maps that Spoon uses/used. You just have to watch out who you buy them from.
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