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95 Taurus Start then stall then start

03-26-2007, 01:49 PM
I recently bought a 95 TaurusGL 3.0L V6. Bought in Jan. Ran fine till day before yesterday. Left the gracery store, and it stalled in traffic. Let it sit for about ten minuts, and it started right back up and ran. Got it about 7 blocks, and it stalled again. Looked under the hood at my fluids, gave it some atifreeze. Otherwise all the fluids were full. Ran and started good. Yesterday, I drove it about 25 miles, and it ran, but on the way home it stalled again. It would start and then putt for a minute, the oil light would come on and flash for a minute, then stall. When it did start and actually move for a second, it would putt, and tick-tick-tick, and then it stalled again. Set there for like 15 minutes, had someone pushing it home. Tried to start again while they were pushing and started righ back up and it ran beautifully the rest of the way home (about 5 blocks). It started ang ran good taday, I drove it about a mile and it was fine. I was told it could be the fuel filter or the relay. The pump is working, because I can hear it when I turn the key over, before I start the car. My problem is I have no idea where to find the filter in order to change it, and I also an curious as to why the oil light is flickering, I have oil. Thanks in advance for the help.

03-26-2007, 03:07 PM
Sounds like a clogged fuel filter / bad fuel pump.

The oil light came on because the engine wasn't turning fast enough to develop enough oil pressure.

03-26-2007, 06:45 PM
I'd suspect the fuel pump. As the fuel pump runs, it heats up. This heat can cause the brushes to bind or even move away from the commutator which causes the fuel pump to stop pumping. The car sits for some period of time, the pump motor cools, and the car will start again. This failure mode is similar to starter motors that fail to turn over a car after it's been driven and let sit for only a couple of minutes.

If the car is a '95 and is on the original fuel pump, you've got some pretty good time out of the pump anyway. It certainly won't hurt to start with the fuel filter as that's a maintenance item anyway, but don't be surprised if that doesn't fix it.

You can check for fuel pressure when the car won't start, as well as for voltage from the inertia switch in the trunk. If, during a no start, you have no fuel pressure and voltage from the inertia switch, fuel pump is a pretty safe bet.


03-26-2007, 06:52 PM
I'll go with MillerMagics diagnoses. Change the filter first and if it still stalls I'd go with a new fuel pump. Most shops have a fuel pressure tester to see if the fuel pump is putting out enough pressure.
Where is the filter? :dunno: Just forward of Right Rear wheel under the floor.
It can be a bear unless you don't mind a little gasoline bath.

Also, if you don't have the tool to relieve the pressure on the car let the car sit overnight, and then change the filter the next day. Just make sure you don't pressurize the system (by turning the key to the "On" or "Start" position), or else, without the pressure relief tool, you'll have to wait a
few hours again. The job will take about 30-45 minutes ... probably faster if you
do remove the right rear tire.

Relieve the fuel pressure before you take anything loose! Otherwise you might get your eyes sprayed with gas or inhale to many fumes. For safety sakes, if anyone comes around smoking tell them to get the HECK AWAY!
Seriously, I pass on doing it and let the technician at the shop do it it. Filter is like $10. bucks and he charges $15. labor for 30 minutes work. Good, I'm glad to pay him because he's got'ta eat to and I never did take kindly to raw gas. It stinks and in the wrong hands it is very dangerous.

HA! Apparently Shorod and I were replying at the same time. Always makes me feel good when he concurs with what I say 'cause he one of de best in de business.

03-27-2007, 01:58 PM
When we did my filter, we unhooked the inertia switch (disabled the fuel pump) and tried starting the car. It sputtered once and then used up all of the fuel pressure.

03-27-2007, 02:16 PM
HA! That trick is a whole lot cheaper than a, "de-pressurizing tool." :boink:

03-27-2007, 04:53 PM
I have a '93 Taurus LX sedan with a 3.8L engine with the same problem that started in June of '06. It would fail occassionaly then, but frequently now. When engine failed and I tried to restart it; if I could not hear the fuel pump, the engine would crank but not start. If the pump could be heard, it would start. When the engine failed, waiting for 5 - 10 mins. the fuel pump would work and the engine would start. Had very few occurrences during the winter months, but more now that the temperture is warming. Changed fuel filter (on passenger side under rear door), but it didn't help. Had a reputable auto-electric tech check it out, but the problem never occurred. He connected an "idiot" light at the fuel pump electrical connection, so when it fails now the light goes out. Just before this problem started last year, the fuse for the radio, power antenna, door locks blew. When the unlock button was depressed, the dash lights and parking lights would come on. When the burnt fuse was replaced, everything worked normal, but shortly thereafter this engine problem started. I believe a weird electrical problem exists, that is affecting the ignition circuit also. Why it happens more when the engine is at operating temperature than with a cold engine or more now with warmer temps leads me to suspect a component that is affected by heat. Perhaps soon, this problem will occur when it's with the tech so he can locate the problem. Good luck to you. Let me know if you find the cause of the problem.

03-27-2007, 05:15 PM
Sounds like might be something a'kin to the old time vapor lock. Read the article and you'll understand.

03-30-2007, 03:52 PM
I just went thru this same problem with a 1995 Contour GL with 2.5-v6 24 valve. I could here the fuel pump run,had 38# pressure at check valve. Changed the fuel filter,still would not keep running,it would just start and stall.If the car was cold it would run for 10-15 miles the die.Decided to check the cadalytic converter,sure enough it was plugged. Install new cadalytic converter and it runs like a new car.You can check the converter by removing it and look inside the front side off it.If you can't see a honey cone inside, the converter is plugged. Don

03-30-2007, 06:29 PM
Plugged cat converter: Yup, that'll do it. Good input and thanks much for sharing that DON711.

03-30-2007, 06:38 PM
Thanks for the info Don711. Was your problem consistent? My engine failed, then ran fine for days/miles. Then it would fail again and run with no problem til next time. Wonder if a plugged cat converter would act intermittently or just fail everytime? My first couple failures happened at the gas pump right after fill-up. The engine was at operating temp. Thought it might be something with a full tank and the fuel pump. Had a smog cert right after the first couple times it failed, wonder if a problem cat converter would indicate anything in the readings? But I will definitely have the cat converter checked.

03-30-2007, 08:47 PM
Found these with the search engine.

Read the 'how stuff works' article and educate yourself on cats.
From what I'm seeing a plugged cat wouldn't make it stall but just not go fast, like the engine had a governor. Google search, 'plugged catalytic converter' or 'stopped up catalytic converter' or 'bad catalytic converter' or 'replace catalytic converter' any thing you can think of along those lines.

Scroll about 3/4 way down the page.

The more I read the more I doubt the cat is the problem.

03-31-2007, 12:47 AM
#3 works real good cat symptoms.html . You can also check it with a vac- gage . If vac is low with motor running the cat is probably bad.It doesn't take that long to pull it and check it. It can also cause your engine to stall and not start.It restricts all the ex. Gas can run out of your ex. pipes at any joint. True fact.

03-31-2007, 12:59 AM
The problem I had was intermitten. But it got wrose over a short time.A plugged cat on a car feels like you may be going backwards as youtry to go foreward.It also sounds like a vacuum cleaner when you step down on it.No power Don.

03-31-2007, 11:03 PM
It could be a faulty coil that starts failing after the engine has heated up. I've only had 1 car do that to me years ago and the symptoms were that it would run fine for a while and then just stop. After it cooled down it ran fine..for a while again. This went on for a couple weeks until it failed pooped out for good.

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