Ok so like the title says im trying to put a 455 in my 65 gto project and i cant seem to find mounts that make the motor sit right bolt up (to all bolts) and that allows clearence between my headman headers and my stearing shaft please help. I tried using 71 and up mounts let me know what you guys do.

Thanx in Advance

The '65 uses the two-bolt type mount. The provision is on the 455 block. It uses two different mounting holes than the "normal" 455 mounts. Just get them for a '65 GTO. No need to worry about WHICH engine it is (only 389 is listed).

Same as the mounts, unless you're using round port heads, use headers to fit the CAR, and don't worry about which engine. ALL D-port heads (except those from the 265/301) share the same flange. Round port heads make things more interesting. Hooker SuperComps are the best, but they're no picnic to install, and are large enough to cause ground clearance issues in parking lots (speed bumps).

So, which heads are they?

Jim

Not sure i understand your post. We found that our 455 is out of a 70 pontiac and that my car wont use 455 mounts. supposedly the 455 mounts were diffrent after 72. We bought solid 400 mounts and are using them with the 455 and stock 65 gto crossmember mounts. The headers hit the stearing shaft and the fender wells. Not sure what to do now. we are either going to find headers that fit or dent the headers or fenders. As far as the heads they might be the d ports not sure, what should i look for. Sry, i missed the e-mail notification that someone actually replied to this post. Thanx for that.:banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead:

Right now im looking for the tranny crossmember mounts so we can get a definite look at all clearences.

engine is 12.5-1 C.R. and forged internals bored 60 over. 4 bolt main, lunati cam and huge heads. way bigger then 202/196 i think they are 220 summin not sure ill check the engine build sheet agian.

(i built this with my dad when i was 12 now im 21 and we are finaly finishing the project):popcorn:

The 455 block has both mounting patterns on it. There are only two. One uses two bolts (like your '65). The other uses three bolts, like the later cars, including 455s. Using the correct '65 mounts should put the engine in the proper position. If the headers are too big, either they're for another application, or they ARE "ding to fit". Hookers usually fit properly every time, but we've had reports of those made in the mid-to-late '90s as being not so accurate (when they were being assembled in Mexico).

455s never had "2.02" valves. They were all 2.11" intakes. Some of the grocery-getter engines had 1.66" exhaust valves, but most were 1.77".

If they're factory heads, there will be a number (usually 2 digits, but could be 3) cast into the outside of the center exhaust ports. Post those numbers and I can help identify what you have.

Lastly, where did you find a forged crankshaft? They've only been released in the last few months, and are all 3" main, which will not "fit" a 455 block. Even the 455SD had a nodular cast iron crankshaft, stock. It has been rumored Kellogg forged some, but we've never seen one... The last FACTORY forging was the Ram Air V 400 crank in '69. VERY rare...

Jim

Sorry i should have been more specific, the crank came with the block unasembled 9 years ago along with a barn full of pontiac parts. blocks,carbs,manifolds,disc brakes,etc. There was enuff parts to build 2 400 and a 455. This project started as a basket car,(all parts in boxes and baskets) I realy have to find that build sheet so i can anwser this stuff for sure. the crank is worked on as is the engine but might not be forged. I said forged internals not concidering the crank.

Our 455 does have 5 mounting tabs on it. we tried the stock mounts first and they had a lip that interfered with the mounting. We now have solid 400 mounts that seem to work just fine, however we may have clearence issues between the stearing box and the headers (infront of crossmember)

When i said 202 heads i meant it as a refrence for others. I am not a gto purist, i build all cars import and domestic so my knowledge on 65 gto specs is very limited.

I had already said i would end up diging to fit the headers or fenders. (my concern is performance) I have a set of hedman headers on right now, although not expensive it is what my budget allowed, i was looking for hooker pro comps but oh well.

Alex

Alex,

Get Jim Hand's book "How to Build Max-performance Pontiac V8s" by SA Designs. It was released in July of '04, and is the most current study of the old Injun. All those little nuances of the Pontiac are discussed.

I don't mean to be "know it all" or" pushy" about accuracy. The problem lies when we talk to a youngster, not familiar with the older muscle car engines, and they have a hard time distinguishing Pontiacs from Chevys from Buicks... A "modern" Pontiac has a GM Powertrain Div. engine in it, as do all other GM cars. It can be REALLY confusing...

Jim

Hey jim no worries, i apreciate all your information. i need info like this. Please give all info you can. we just orderd our tranny mounts and inserts for tranny cross brace. i will look into that book thanx and we do have a resto book thats gto specific. Its loaded with helpfull info.





Alex

hey good news i found the engine build sheet with the specs on our 455 and i just got a new 389 to build for the 3 two barrel rochester set up.:grinyes:

I have the crossmember in with the solid 400 mounts on our 455. The headmen headers hit on the fenders. im using prothain tranny mounts

I could use some help with the easyist way to be able to swap motors in and out in a few hours, while still reusing most of the components. I.E. alt,start,dist,etc

Also i need to know what size carb and manifold to run on the 455. its bored 30 over and 12.5-1 C.R.

I am using a 4 speed munsie but its not the rock crusher iv been told it will loose 2 or 3 gear on the 455, becouse of the estimated 500 plus horses.
what tranny should i run and what rear end, for a street strip well handling car.

Jim please help thanx in advance:uhoh:

12.5:1?? That's a "race" engine, not for street use. You will need 110 octane at all times. Any idea what cam is in it? Head work? Generally, an 850 CFM carb is right for the 455, unless you plan to rev it past 6,500 (not recommended unless all the bottom-end parts are BULLET PROOF!). We use Torker or Torker II for street engines, Victor for race engines. Performer RPM will result in too much bottom-end torque, creating serious traction ssues.

Get a factory service manual for the step-by-steps in R&R.

Glad to hear you don't "think" you have a "rock crusher". Many believe ANY Muncie is a "rock crusher". That nickname is reserved for the M-37. It LOOKS like the other Muncies, but it has the 1 1/4" snout on the input shaft, and the TH-400 output shaft. M-22 has the big output shaft, but not the big input. The ONLY "production car" GM put the M-37 in was the '67 Corvette ZL-1. It's called "rock crusher" due to the loud whine it makes in 1st gear ("spur cut" instead of "helical cut"). An engineer on the Corvette project heard a cement mixer on his way to work one morning, and heard the trans the same day. So the story goes...

I would opt for an aftermarket Muncie replacement, or a Liberty ST-10. They can take the power. TH-400 is alwas a good option for street performance. It can take pretty much any power any engine makes.

Jim

The cam is a lunati cam but i cant figure out which one it is on the crappy build sheet that T and P performance made for us it says P-256-263 108

the block is 060 over and has a cmpetition valve job
blueprinted balanced and shot peened polished where aplicable
heat treated rods

The 389 was supposed to be my street and the 455 is a race motor (supposedly)

What starter manifold carb alternator fuel pump setup would you recomend

We use the PowerMaster starters. The 9510 fits the stock pan, and the 9610 has the adjustable nose cone for the aftermarket pans.

Edelbrock Victor would be the intake of choice for the big engine. If hood clearance is an issue, use Torker II.

The AED Holley 850HO is the carb of choice. About $500, new. If the budget allows, the 850HOM is even better, but another $300. No need for a carb any bigger.

The rest I'll leave to chassis builders...

Jim

Wow i have to say, i have been building imports for atleast 6 years now i have built atleast a car a year. Mostly turbo or nitrous stuff. I have asked some of the best in the import industry for advice. Never before have i gotten such easy non byist anwsers while still getting respect. The import on-line community in the last six years hasnt once been as helpfull to me as you have been Jim i greatly apreciate it. Ill post some pix of our project so you can see your advice unfold.

Next steps
The rear end (open for suggestions)
Getting the car to handle the street for the 389 and the track with the 455
finding a cheap tranny that is a four speed that will work for both motors
putting the front and rear window in
order and install interior
wire up the 455 and crank her over
and then figuring out how to convert to disks and supply vacum to the booster when our 455 has none. HEHEHE

which reminds me if anyone knows how to identify old front hub and disk assemblys let me know. My front disk assemblie does match up but i dont know what its off of.

The import community should hide in shame.:nono: