amp question

hey, i was wondering what amp would BEST compliment 2 JBL GTO 8in 200rms 800peak. i'm trien to stay less then $300 if i can....from what i have heard, alpine or inifinity amps would be a good choice. is that true?

Hifonics, autotek, profile. Infinity amps are ok same with alpine, but you can get a profile for about 150, and the same with autotek and hifonics.

profile sucks don't waste your money. a 400 watt crossfire will do right at 200 a channel, google search a crossfire tek 400.1 you can get one for about 200 and get what you pay for

profile sucks don't waste your money. a 400 watt crossfire will do right at 200 a channel, google search a crossfire tek 400.1 you can get one for about 200 and get what you pay for

This is comming from the guy who said scoshe components are the best on the market. Where your proof of profile being a waste of money. I think an amp that cost about 100 and puts out close to there rms value would be a better deal than most other brands. Now you want proof on my statement. I put a DMM to my amp which is a profile ca400m, played a 3-6 mafia song with the EQ flat and the volume at 20 out of about 40-45 on my alpine HU. The dmm hit its highest point at 27.7v. Using the equation v^2/R. Which in turn is 27.7x27.7=767.29, now 767.29/4=191.82. For an amp thats supposed to be underrated i think thats very respectable and this amp also cost about 100 new.

More recently i decied to put a 30hz test tone to it, put the EQ to +3 bass and +5 tb, and the volume at 23. I was able to crack a 31.4v. Now this end result is 246.49watts. This would show that my amp is possibly clipping. So please state your reason for profile amps being shit.

This is comming from the guy who said scoshe components are the best on the market.
i don't recall saying that, but i may have but that was then, and this is now, and i know alot more about car audio now.

and i compete heavily and i have seen a magic smoke show or two from a profile amp at shows, for daily listening profile might be a nice amp.


peace

Il stick to my preferences and you can have yours. And most of the times an amp fries its due to user error not manufacturing. Now back when i had the polks i was able to hit 138db on a tl mic. This is 2 subs from back in 96, set at 1/2 power which is 150x1 so 75 to each sub. This amp has changed hands 4 times and it still works like a champ.

"most of the times an amp fries its due to user error not manufacturing"

but most better quality amps are designed to handle more abuse. One of the things you learn is that impedances vary wildly in the bass region, the only place a 4 ohm sub is near 4 ohm is maybe one small group of frequencies (5-6 Hz) around the resonant frequency. A 4 ohm sub may drop below 2 ohms on a regular basis, the amp needs to be able to handle that. Remember that most most amps are rated on a strictly resistive load, speakers however are highly reactive.

Ive seen some of the graphs of the frequency levels and impendances. Ive never personally fried and amp, or had a friend fry one. And i have some dumb friends when it comes to car audio. Like the last one was a 220v cicuit breaker as a fuse.

I prefer circuit breakers to fuses ....

I like the 12v one i got off ebay made by phoenix gold, but this thing was so out of place, besides the wires being taped to the leads, if he turned to sharply the wire would come loose.

Ive seen them used before in high wattage SPL setups, but on a daily driver running an amp thats rated 400rms when its not even installed properly. Cant be as bad as my friend that used 18gauge speaker wire to power and ground his amp.

originally posted by Paul D:
but most better quality amps are designed to handle more abuse.

thank you paul

I have run my amp in excess of 5-6 hours at car shows with no issues never overheated, never fried it never had a problem. The amp is only as good as the installer. Ive seen alot of things fry while at shows, but ive never seen a profile amp jsut go for no reason even under loads. Yeah there not SPl amps, there not great amps but for $100 show me a better amp that puts out close to its rated power. That you can use to power a sub, not a set of speakers. And i will agree with paul you get what you pay for, but for budget setups and DD setups profile makes a pretty rock solid amp.

Profile is one of those companies where you get a good value per dollar, not a great amp .... but then not everyone can afford the best of everything. Sometimes people have other priorities than car stereo and are on a tight budget.

Profile is one of those companies where you get a good value per dollar, not a great amp .... but then not everyone can afford the best of everything. Sometimes people have other priorities than car stereo and are on a tight budget.

Considering a person could spend well into the thousands or more on a single cars stereo system, i agree.

squadfer:

If your worried about your budget, before you go out and buy a new low quality amp perhaps you should consider buying a used "good" one.

that or maybe a factry refurb i seem some kickers go for 3/4 the price and i seens a jl audio 1000/1 go for half of what a new one is

Thats my problem i want to get my audio straight but my truck is in desperate need of a paint job. Thats the only reason im looking into Autotek from what ive heard there pretty good amps. And i can get them on ebay for about half of msrp.

But yes a budget can conflict with priority's. It really sucks when something breaks right after you save enough money to get something and some how whatever breaks cost just as much as what you where saving up for.