I replaced ECTS ... Now what?

I bought a 95 Saturn 4 door DOHC at a discount, because the gal said there was something wrong with the relay that controls the fan. Everytime she started or stopped, she had to pop the hood and move the relay so the engine fan wouldn't run continually. I took it to a shop that had it for three days and they couldn't figure it out. (I know, get the engine codes!) I called them and they didn't have the codes written down, but said something about "intermittent communication error." They had tried a new computer without success. A few months later, I noticed the relay was starting to get hot to the touch. I replaced it, and now the engine fan NEVER comes on, and the temp and radiator warning light are ALWAYS on. (They were never on before.)

I've read earlier posts here and thought I had it diagnosed as a bad ECTS, so I replaced it. Everything seemed fine for 10 minutes, then the warning lights came back on! Now what?!?

check the wiring harness for the ects. They tend to corrode. We replace a lot of them here for that reason

What exactly am I looking for? The wires connected to the ECTS seemed fine, but ...??? "Wiring harness" ... that sounds substantial.

the plug that goes on the switch is called a harness or connector, even though it is only two wires. Take it off and look inside to see if the corroded. If it is you should replace it.

I've looked at it and don't see corrosion; but it's pretty small, so I could be missing something. If this is my best option, I will replace anyway. I've talked to the parts store and they think I'm crazy for trying to replace this (??) Should I be talking to a dealership? Do you have a part number?

The parts guys don't know squat. It's common for the ECTS plug to go bad. Go to the dealer, they have them. Are you getting an SES light? If so, grab the codes. You can do this yourself buy following the instructions here. (http://www.differentracing.com/tech_articles/diag_info.html)

Report back with the codes and maybe we can narrow down whats wrong.

Are you getting an SES light? If so, grab the codes. You can do this yourself buy following the instructions here. (http://www.differentracing.com/tech_articles/diag_info.html)

Report back with the codes and maybe we can narrow down whats wrong.

I used to get SES light when I would forget to plug in the relay. But now the only lights that come on are 1) Temperature and 2) Radiator (? I think that's what it is. It's right next to the temp light.) I should mention that occasionally they will both go off, but only for a few minutes.

I'm not a mechanic, but my nephew is ... at an import only shop. Is there anything that would show up with codes, if the light is NOT coming on? He doesn't know anything about Saturns, but I'm sure he would help if he knew what he was looking for. Anything specific I should have him check?

I will get the harness from the dealer. Thanks for the feedback.

Even though the light hasn't been coming on, check for codes anyway.

OK, I went to the website Cat Fuzz suggested on how to get the codes without going to a dealer. (There is a similar post at www.saturnfans.com (http://www.saturnfans.com) complete with the meanings of the codes.) The only code I got was "12", which just indicates that the self diagnostic is working ... correct?

I'll be heading to the dealership this weekend to get the wiring harness. Until then, any other ideas?

(By the way, SaturnFans.com has a "how to" post complete with full color photos about how to replace the ECTS.)

I've read that if I turn on the AC, the radiator fan should come on, too ... correct? Well, I turned on the AC and the fan DID NOT come on! It used to stay on ALL THE TIME with the other relay. Any thoughts on this?

The fans should come on when the a/c is turned on. However if the charge is low in the system, and the compressor does not engage, neither will the fans. Replace the harness, and relay, and see what happens.

Replace the harness, and relay, and see what happens.

I went to the dealer and was ready to buy both the harness and the relay, but the counter guy told me not to get the relay. He said "If you just replace the harness, that should fix your problem."

He was wrong. I just replaced the harness, but there is no change; the temp and radiator light still come on after about 30 seconds. (By the way, the old harness looked as good and clean as the new one -- no corrosion.)

Is the relay my next (and only) option? Could there be a short or something that caused my relay to go bad after only a few months?

The fan also should have come on while you were getting the codes. I'm assuming it did not or you would have mentioned it.

Try swapping in another of the other relays in the fuse box. They are all the same. Swap in the a/c relay or rear defroster relay and see if that does anything. If your rear defrosters work, and you put that relay into the cooling fan slot and the fan still doesn't work, then there is something else wrong. Go through the process of pulling the codes again. Put in the jumper wire, turn the key on and then start wiggling the fan relay and the wiring that goes to the fan to see if there might be a loose connection. The fan should be on while in diagnostic mode, so if there is a loose connection some wiggling of wires might make it come on. Keep your hands CLEAR of the fan! Disconnect the battery and Spin the fan by hand. It should be smooth. Locate the power wire to the fan and connect a jumper wire to the positive post of the battery. If it still doesn't come on, replace the fan motor. Maybe do the jumper thing first.

"Fan should come on when getting codes"; Ah ... thanks for the insight. When I did the jumper wire this time, the fan did NOT initially come on. When I removed and reinserted the relay, it did come on. It was very touchy, however, I had to wiggle it several times to get it to stay on. I tried the AC relay with the same results. (By the way, the codes were all "12" again.)

When I removed the jumper wire and started the car ... the temp and radiator light came on again! ARRRRGHHH!

Sounds like a bad connection in the relay/fuse box.

I didn't think of this until the mention of the fusebox.

A few months ago I took the car to a Saturn mechanic (works for the dealer during the week, at home on weekends). He had it for three days and never touched it, so I took it home. Even without looking at it, he told me he thought it was a "common problem ... a mass of wires under the fuse box..."

I haven't read anything about it on the Saturn forums. Anyone know 1) specifics and 2) how hard it would be for a "rookie" to fix? (I just lost my job, so I'm trying to do it myself.)

Geez, if you could get it to Spokane I'd take a look for myself. It's difficult to troubleshoot stuff like this over the interweb.

If wiggling the relay in the fuse/relay box makes the fan work, you should be able to take a small o-ring pick and try to tighten up the little connectors in the box.

The underhood fuse block is a fairly common problem. We replace a few here at the shop. They are not difficult to change out. You could possibly find a good used one at a wrecking yard to get you by for now.

Thank you! Fuse box from a wrecking yard $40 ... now fan issue fixed! It seemed like it would be really easy, but took me (a rookie) 3 hours to replace. For other rookies ... be sure to "seat" (i.e. jam down) the fuse box. My brights didn't work until my neighbor pushed down HARD on the top of the fuses "to make sure everything was connecting." Another footnote ... my warning lights were flashing because my radiator cap was defective! I was ignoring them because "I just checked the fluid level, it MUST be the ECTS." WRONG! My mechanic was called into the picture when the car developed this nasty habit of dying while I was doing 30 miles per hour. (Code 32 = EGR valve = over my head.) He was the one who diagnosed the bad radiator cap, and confirmed the fusebox problem. (I didn't tell him anything about this forum or our suspicions ... he came up with it on his own.) Again, thanks to HAWG and Cat Fuzz ... you're the best!