Pulley Kit and Rocker Arms

what kind of gain do u think i can see from my 2200 w/ a aluminum alloy pulley kit and Sports Roller Tip Rocker Arms?

none....waste of money. might do some good if u have a built engine, but seeing as how u dont i dont think they would do any good.

none....waste of money. might do some good if u have a built engine, but seeing as how u dont i dont think they would do any good.

You shouldn't really say things if you don't know they are true.

Neither of them are going to add power to your car, they are just going to let your engine be more efficient and make more of its own stored power.

Crane makes a set of Gold Series Roller rocker arms. A lot of friction and power loss in an OHV engine is due to its valve train. However yes doing head work would yield higher gains, however they have dyno sheets to where these are proven on a stock head to gain 8hp. As for the lighter pulley, its also a good thing to lighten anything that rotates. They make for faster revs.

so u think i should do one and not the other? ex: get the pulley kit and forget the rocker arms?

Get em both. I would/will.

ok, thx for the help cody. btw...i was lookin at these parts off of mantapart.com. the pulleys r 200 and the rocker arms are 275

http://www.howellautomotive.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=7

I've heard bad things about mantapart. I'd be iffy about them, however there are suppose to be some new ones in the works off a reputable JBO member. I am waiting for those myself.

for $475, get something that's going to make a difference, like nitrous....or you could save the money. The "gains" you're going to see aren't really worth the money spent....

for $475, get something that's going to make a difference, like nitrous....or you could save the money. The "gains" you're going to see aren't really worth the money spent....

exactly what i was trying to say....so lets lay off the whole "i know more about cars than you" classic and let people have their own opinions. its pretty obvious that lighter pullies will spin faster, but on a non-performance engine, what difference would it make. like schister said, spend the nearly 500 bux and gets something that might actually be worth it.

its pretty obvious that lighter pullies will spin faster,


Lighter pullies dont spin faster, they take less power to turn. Smaller pullies will spin faster and make the various accessories work at higher output and therefore take more power from the engine. Larger diameter pullies (except the crank pulley) will make the various accessories spin slower and therefore take up less power from the engine.

Lighter rotating mass is a good thing in some instances, but bad in others. If, for example, you were to build an all motor car, an 8lb flywheel will help you to rev faster and therefore pull through the gear faster, but in other instances like with turboed cars, you dont want to lose all that rotating mass because that is inertia that helps pull you through the higher gears. Also, if the flywheel is too light and you're using a decent sized turbo, you will fall out of boost by your next shift. Its a balancing act when deciding what is best for your vehicle/driving style. Most people really dont understand why they "need" lighter pullies or a lighter flywheel, but they think that lightest is the best.

You need to think about what you're going to gain from the parts you're getting rather than just getting them because someone said it was a good idea. Personally, i dont think either of those are a great idea, but of the two, the Roller Rockers are the only practical option if you can call it that. They will free up some power in your engine because they will reduce friction.

ok, thx for all ur opinions. i wanted to get nitrous and i have a whole list under my favorites, but since i live w/ my parents and dont have my own credit card, i have to use my dads. my mom says that i dont need it. i tell them it will be only used for the track but my mother doesnt want me racing period (and doesnt believe the "only track" part) and wont let my dad give in to let me buy it. so im kinda limited to wut i do to my car cuz of my mother =(

well one thing you can do is save your money....i did that from the time i was 16 until i turboed my car when i was 19....and i'm only 20 now....patience my friend

wow...nice. ill prolly save up for a 2.2 ecotec swap and then save up more and turbo that. i have a 2000 sunfire w/ a 2200, will a 2.2 ecotec be a plug and play type deal or wut would i need new?

i'm not the guy to ask about that, but i know for a fact that you dont need an Ecotec engine first in order to boost it. Its just like a Honda guy thinking that he/she needs a VTEC engine before its boosted...you could turbo either engine.

o ok...well i just thought that the 2.2 or 2200 arent good to turbo and im better off w/ an ecotec or 2.4. and id rather have an ecotec over a 2.4, thats y i said the eco...

well ur right there, the eco is proly the best engine for a swap, especially if ur gonna turbo it. and no its not a plug and play as far as i know. im pretty sure ur gonna need just about everything to do the swap i.e. wiring harness, ecu, not sure about the tranny though.

for the price of the swap, just build the engine you have now to handle more power.....

ya, that sounds like a good idea to just rebuild the engine. at least ill kno everything will hook up when im done. what all will i need to rebuild it besides pistons, rods, arms, cam, valves, and head? jw so i kno down the road...

exactly what i was trying to say....so lets lay off the whole "i know more about cars than you" classic and let people have their own opinions. its pretty obvious that lighter pullies will spin faster, but on a non-performance engine, what difference would it make. like schister said, spend the nearly 500 bux and gets something that might actually be worth it.

I wasn't saying i know more than you. Its was a reply to your comment of it would do nothing. He wanted to know what they was going to do for him, not hey what would nitrous do.

sheesh....

people are too easily offendable on here lately....

What else do I need to rebuild my engine? lol

people are too easily offendable on here lately....

Mmm Hmm... Guess i offend people for telling them they are wrong and correcting them.

What else do I need to rebuild my engine? lol

What are you planning to do with your engine?( N/a, Nitrous, Forced induction) That would help us help you figure that out.

What are you planning to do with your engine?( N/a, Nitrous, Forced induction) That would help us help you figure that out.

turbo and possibly nitrous.

save and wait...theres no point to rebuild if you're not 100% sure you're going to do something with it. Boost it first and build it after you've been boosted on stock for a while.....that's the best way to avoid spending a lot of money needlessly

well i kno i wanna boost it. i want nitrous also and will prolly get it but my dad said to wait till next summer. so idk if ill change my mind on the nitrous. but ya, for sure about boosting it.

well dont build it until after you turbo it...also you need to decide what you're going to get because nitrous and turbos dont mix well on street engines unless you plan on spending a lot

Step 1 - Make sure you have an alternative source of transportation. Your going to have A lot of down time. Building an engine isn't something that can be put together properly quickly.

Option 1 - Build your engine for high compression like 10.5 or 11:1 with forged everything bottom end, Regrind your cams, P&P head, cryo treated Push rods, 1mm over sized valves, New lifters, roller rockers, and run a nice size shot of nitrous. 75-100 wet shot.

Option 2 - Do the same as option 1, except go low compression 8.0-8.5:1 and stay away from nitrous, or only run an extremely small shot like a 35 wet.

As far as your cam options call up either crane or comp and tell them what your planning on doing and they can create a great grind for you. It will be different for which way you decide to go.

If you turbo your car, just going to forewarn you that your more at risk for things to break/ go wrong than N/A and nitrous.

Our shop car did just that. Got it running perfectly at the end of the summer, dyno tuned in, and was spraying a small 35 wet shot. She ran like a bad out of hell for about 1 month... September, oil light came on under 7psi of boost. Stopped the car immediately. Check the oil and was still where she was suppose to be. We were only 2 miles from the shop on a back road doing some sprints, got the car about 50 yards from the shop and the engine seized up... all because of the failed oil pump. Just be ready for things to go wrong. I'm not trying to discourage you from this because its an adrenaline rush.

You just don't want to have your car end up like this...

http://img296.imageshack.us/img296/1083/0001429ki2.jpg

from this..

http://www.rdfabs.com/galleries/images/project_vehicles/2000_sunfire/chrissunfireturbo10.jpg

howell = bad...:(

http://www.srtforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=327312

and if your going to do a swap, y not just buy a whole new car? unless ur really attached to that sunfire, you can find a nice old civic and swap out the engine....

ya...i like the sunfire, idk y so much tho. and i wouldnt buy a civic if my life depended on it, i just hate those things.:lol:

EDIT: N/A isnt sounding too bad. hmmmm...its a toss up.

Option 2 - Do the same as option 1, except go low compression 8.0-8.5:1 and stay away from nitrous, or only run an extremely small shot like a 35 wet.


There's no need to go that low....the lowest compression i would run for any application is a 9:1. Your off-boost/nitrous response and power would be absolute shit....9:1 and get a good tuner...you can make plenty of power on either nitrous or on a turbo setup

back on topic about the pulley kits...

Is this what you are talking about;

http://www.aempower.com/ViewCategory.aspx?CategoryID=108

how are these and what is the real benifit/reason for one?