Hello again everyone. I've done some more testing yesterday on my Geo. Here's what I did yesterday:

1. Checked fuel injector resistor resistance, it's between 2.7 and 2.8 ohms.
2. Checked fuel injector resistance, it's 1.3 ohms.
3. Checked fuel pressure. With key on but engine not running, fuel pressure is at 30psi. Same when engine is running.
4. Checked TPS voltage:
a) With key on, connector 3 to ground reads 4.73 volts.
b) With key on, connector 4 to ground reads 5 volts.
5. Changed TPS with another one I got from Ebay with a car that has low miles. Works perfectly. Here's the measurements I did:
a) Between connectors 1 and 2, resistance at idle is around only 25 ohms, resistance with .012" is around 107.4 ohms, and at .035" no continuity.
b) Between connectors 1 and 4, resistance is at 6.87 kohms.
c) Between connectors 1 and 3, at idle 735 ohms, and wide open throttle is 5.46 kohms.

Items 1 through 5 all checked out fine. Today I am running a wet/dry compression check, anxious to see what the results are. I also ordered a new catalytic converter, as I don't know how old the one on there is, as I purchased the car with 158,000 miles. I figure even if it's partially clogged, it's due for replacement.

I will be getting back with results of the compression check, and after I put on the new catalytic converter. Should be this afternoon sometime.

Take care everyone! At least so far I found out there's nothing wrong with my fuel system, or TPS. :)

Just did the compression check (finally). Was anxious of the results:

Dry Test
Cyl 1: 160psi
Cyl 2: 40psi
Cyl 3: 80 psi

Wet Test
Cyl 1: 185psi
Cyl 2: 40psi
Cyl 3: 80psi

Looks like bad valves mostly, so I'm going to get a rebuilt head for $200 shipped in a week or so and install that. So, my car's been running on 1 cylinder...lol. Figures...seems like that's all the power it gets. Anyway, I will keep you all posted, and feel free to respond. :)

will tell you same thing i told Dr Bill. if you do the head you should replace the rings too or you will probably end up with a engine that smokes

Well since that would involve way too much work on my part, I think it'd be better to just replace the entire engine. That'd be most economical anyway.

I agree with Crvette about the rings and they aren't very hard to do since the head is off. Just drop the oil pan and your there. I agree with you to I'd yank the engine and stick in a JDM. You should check out Ebay for a JDM engine I've seen them as cheap as $375 plus shipping. These are 50,000 to 60,000 mile engines shipped in from Japan.

There's one locally (40 miles away) that I found that has 24,000 miles, and has a 6 month warranty, for $475. That's the one I'll probably get. IF I did decide to keep the engine I have, what's the process of putting in new rings? Would I have to rehone the pistons and all that too?

That sounds like a good deal. If I had mine to do over and knowing what I know now I would order a head and cam from 3tech for $375. That's a little higher than just the head but with a matched cam new bearings an a re-ring kit you'd have a rebuilt motor with the head and cam of your choice. Instead of going into detail on putting new rings in just go to teamswift and do a search there's several posts on it and while you're there do a search for 3tech and check his heads and cams. If you don't care about any performance gains I'd stick with the one with 24,000 miles on it.

the ones from japan are supposed to have 40-60k kilometers. i usually buy 3 or 4 at a time and them if someone needs them sell them for $450. the prices on them seem to go up every time the price of gas rises. list at the local engine places for the 3 cyl are $475 but since i buy in bulk they give me a deal

If you want to know what is truly involved to replace the rings and what some of the pitfalls are read http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=645309 . The replacement motor is definately quicker as long as there are no hidden issues.

Well I'm in the process of getting the other engine. Well worth it in my opinion! I will be writing back once I receive the other engine, and start doing the entire engine exchange. Should be a bit of work but well worth it!

Why not replace the rings...?

It is not that difficult...I did it and I'm a Klutz.!

If you are interested in my experience getting my '93 Metro 3 cyl back running
like new, go see these threads (I hope the links work OK...)

Lots of photographs taken as I did the job over the summer of 2006.

Is removing the one TB Fuel Injector difficult? Trying to finger out why it won't run.
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/t492475.html

Reassembling the TBI and getting it running again.
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=4297966

That's the end of my '93 Metro.....
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=611713

NOT the end of my '93 metro...Life after death! RINGS taking off the Head
and replacing the Rings.
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=613410

The Flight of the PHOENIX ! Everything since I got it running again.
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=645309

I have many different threads concerning, Front wheel bearings, oil, all parts of the
engine, gas tank removal, battery problems, lights, you name it...

Do a search for my threads under DoctorBill.

I blather a lot - so be patient....Good luck to you!

DoctorBill

Well I already purchased the engine, and I think it's well worth having an engine with only 24k miles.

I think a '92 3 cyl will go into my '93 Metro hatchback.....

What do you want for your old engine - complete....?

You are in Northern Kahifornyah...as your Governor would say.

I wouldn't mind having a replacement engine around....

Wonder what shipping costs would be?

I did one Head and Rings set.... might be nice to do an engine while it sets on
some sort of wood rack.

Then have essentially a "new" engine ready to go in case this one bites the dust.

Just a thought.

DoctorBill

Well if all goes well, I will have a complete block and head available to sell. No external parts, such as manifolds, or distributor or anything like that. As for shipping, I have no idea how much it'd cost to ship, and I really would not want to ship it as I don't have time to package the engine. I'll probably end up trying to sell it locally just to get it off my hands.

I got the other engine today from the guy. It's a JDM engine with 24k miles on it. Has everything already on the engine (distributor, intake manifold, throttle body, EGR, all sensors, exhaust manifold, etc), so it was really worth more than the $475 I paid for it with all that came with it. Anyway, starting tomorrow (Tuesday) I'll start working on the whole project...seems like it's gonna be fun. :)

Today I did quite a bit on my car, considering I've been battling a sinus cold (sore throat, etc). Anyway, I disconnected all the electrical connectors in the engine, drained all the fluids, disconnected all hoses. Found out I only had to undo the front engine mount to take the engine out. Got engine out in about 3 hours taking it easy.

After engine's out, I checked out the clutch. The clutch disc was all the way down to the rivets, so it was on its way out. Installed the new clutch in the newer engine. Had to switch over some of the sensors as they were different. The new engine wasn't using the BVSV valve on the throttle body, so I installed that. Used my old but new ISC solenoid, and going to put in the EGR valve tomorrow. Swapped over the distributors. The newer engine had a Mitsubishi distributor (totally different), so I put on mine from the old motor. I pretty much got everything switched over. Tomorrow (Wednesday) gonna install the newer motor and get everything bolted back together. Also gonna install a new thermostat that I got a while back, and check some other minor things.

Overall, the project is going very smoothly. Really easy to work on! I noticed that when I drained the tranny oil that there were a bunch of metal shavings on the drain plug...but the fluid's never been changed as far as I know...and with 160,000 miles on the tranny it's bound to have some shavings from trying to shift and missing, etc, over the years. Still shifts fine though, so I'm not really worried about it.

Wednesday is my last day off until next Tuesday, so after that, I'll be working on it nights off and on. At least I have the car in my garage so no matter if it rains or not I can work on it indoors, which is really nice.

(added 7:01am on 2-21-07) Also I came to discover, when I removed the old engine and the old flywheel/clutch that the main seal on the engine was leaking oil pretty bad....that's why my transmission was soaked in oil, and probably where most of the oil was going...every 200 or so miles I drove the car was down almost a quart.

I'll keep you all updated on the progress! :)

Well I accomplished a lot today as well. Made a discovery that the engine I recently acquired is from a 1995 Geo Metro. How I discovered that is it had a different timing belt (round teeth instead of square teeth), and I cross referenced the timing belt number with the engine and came up with it.

I installed a new thermostat first today. Second I swapped timing belt covers as the new one I got was damaged in shipment I think. My original one was in perfect condition so I used that. Put on a new timing belt as well, and made sure all bolts were secured.

By around 2pm today, I had the new engine installed with success. Took some time aligning the engine with the transmission, but worked out in the end. Tightened all drain plugs on tranny, engine, and radiator. Installed all hoses and connected all the wiring harnesses. Installed the starter again. Swapped oil dipsticks as I liked the original one better. Made sure all oil pan bolts were secure. Installed new spark plugs, and new oil filter. Put on PCV valve that was on the older engine as I just replaced it. Also put on older exhaust manifold as I recently had it cleaned out, and a new O2 sensor put in that one.

Tomorrow, after work, I have to put in the alternator again, and the serpentine drive belt. And then if I have time I will put in all new fluids (Castrol 5W30 motor oil, Mobil 1 75W90 synthetic gear lube for tranny, and antifreeze in the radiator). Then that should be it. Of course double-checking everything, to make sure everything's correct and ready.

Friday, after work, should be able to connect the battery, install the air cleaner and filter, double check everything again, and be able to start it up, and see if it runs! Looking forward to that. Overall, the entire process will have only taken 4 days, which isn't bad at all. I've worked on it nonstop yesterday from 9am to 5pm, and today 8am to 5pm. Tomorrow I will work on it from around 6pm to 8pm. And Friday from 6pm to 8pm. Then should be all done!

I just had a thought, unfortunately it's too late to help you, but you might post if it happens. In my experience, any time a water pump sits dry for an extended period of time, when you put it back in service, it fails within a few months. My self determined policy is to replace it with a new one any time I am faced with this situation. Perhaps one of the regulars who swaps in JDM motors frequently can post their experiences as well.

Well if the water pump fails, I did have a new one put on my old engine, so it's not really a problem, I'll just swap them out if the other one's faulty.

Hello again everyone. Here's what I accomplished tonight in an hour:

1. Found the fill plug for the tranny. Took a 15/16" socket, and it was really tight! Finally after a few dozen pulls I got it loose. I had a flexible funnel that worked excellent to put in the new fluid. I used Mobil 1 75W90 Synthetic Gear Lubricant as directed in the service manual. Took exactly 2.5 qts. Reinstalled the plug.

2. Reinstalled the inspection plate between the motor and tranny covering the flywheel.

3. Added 3.5 qts of Castrol 5W30 motor oil. Checked for leaks...none.

4. Checked to make sure all vacuum hoses were routed correctly. Installed coil wire. Reinstalled air cleaner.

Also today, I discovered that my alternator was a 50A alternator, and I checked everywhere, it should be a 55A alternator. Since I got the alternator about six months ago from Napa Auto Parts, I was able to return it and get credit for the correct one, a 55A one. It'll be in tomorrow.

All I have left to do tomorrow is install the alternator, drive belt, double check that the spark plug wires are in the correct places, reinstall battery, add coolant to the radiator, and start it up!

Then, last thing, after I find out everything works properly, is to reinstall the hood. :)

I will be posting every day until this project is finished.

Dan

Well I accomplished a lot today as well. Made a discovery that the engine I recently acquired is from a 1995 Geo Metro. How I discovered that is it had a different timing belt (round teeth instead of square teeth), and I cross referenced the timing belt number with the engine and came up with it.
Yea, I had this same problem when I swapped out the engine in my old 94 Metro with a JDM Motor. Dropping the engine in with the tranny still in is tight, but it can be done easier by removing the crankshaft pulley 1st...... Also, I DID install a new water pump, Timing belt and front and rear main seals in my JDM motor before putting it in the car.....Just didn't trust it and it's alot easier with the engine out of the car!.....Good progress on the new JDM Engine swap Dan!......Fire it up this weekend and let us know how it goes?

Well the time has come! Today I pretty much finished all the work on my car! Got a 55amp alternator, bolts up perfectly, got it bolted up and tightened. Installed the drive belt again. Installed the two exhaust bolts to the manifold. Added coolant to the radiator. Installed battery again. Went to start it up...started up just fine! Runs like a champ. ONLY problem right now is a coolant leak in one of the hoses running from the intake manifold up to the throttle body, but I have one from my old engine that's just fine. Must've been damaged during shipment of engine, as I never replaced it.

Runs great though. Still have to fine tune the timing and clutch. BUT it idles where it should. Turn on accessories, and idle lowers then raises to compensate for the additional load (never did that before). But yeah, runs great! I'm so happy! :)

Tomorrow after work I will replace that one hose, and install the hood. Not in a rush to drive it, but I will probably drive it my next day off (Tuesday)...maybe sooner than that if I'm too excited and can't wait.

Anyway, I'm really happy that everything worked out! Looking forward to all your responses! :D Talk to you all tomorrow!

Only other thing I would have done Dan is to flush the entire cooling system out good with some Prestone system flush before adding new coolant to it. You dont really know what the coolant passages in your new motor look like inside or if any debris is in it or when the last time it was flushed? This includes flushing the heater core in both directions with a garden hose AFTER running the prestone system flush per directions. To do this: You pull off both the send and return hoses from the engine, then stick the garden hose (No spray nozzle on it) in the Send hose and run water thru the core until it comes out clean. Then do the same in the Return hose until it comes out clean (Backflushing it). I had a guy at work bring His Metro over after he did an engine swap in it.....Had a code 15 Error (Engine coolant temp sensor - High temp indicated) in the car every time he warmed the car up after 15 -20 mins. The car wasn't overheating so we pulled the Engine coolant temp sensor out of the intake manifold.....YUK!...A jelly like sludge had built up around the sensor and in the intake coolant passages (Probably some radiator additive to stop leaks etc) and was causing it to send a false signal to the ECM. After a complete thorough system flush inc heater core, cleaned the sensor up good and re-installed it.....New coolant in the system...No more code 15! Glad you got it up and running Dan.....Might want to change the Oil in it after a short time or do the Amsoil Engine Flush (http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/aef.aspx) if your gonna be using synthetic motor oil in it?......It's good stuff if used per their directions. I didn't think there would be much debris in my low mile (28K Mile) 3.3 V6 Engine cradle swap I did last Nov in our 91 Buick Century but I tried the Amsoil flush anyways......I was wrong!.....Keep up the post on how She's doing Dan!

Thanks for the tip! Yeah, I think I'll change the oil again after 500 miles, because I don't know how long the engine was sitting since last time it was actually used. Runs great though, temp is right where it should be.

Today I installed the hood, replaced that one hose I talked about yesterday, checked timing...it was at 0 degrees, so I adjusted it to the factory 5 degrees btdc. Then I ran a code check to see if any codes came up...a code 42 came up...I checked it right after I adjusted the timing. What I did, though, is disconnected the battery, and reconnected it. Ran the car for 5-10 minutes, only got code 12....so either it was a glitch, or something else. I did have the battery hooked up since I started it the very first time, so maybe it was really nothing. I'll keep an eye on it though.

It's idling around 800 when I fixed the timing...might be a little high. If it stays that high, I might put in the fuse in the terminal and adjust the idle speed screw until it's where it should be...around 650 I think? It's no biggie though, runs great. Sounds good too.

I also adjusted the clutch a little bit. How far out on the pedal should the clutch engage? Right now it's engaging about a third from the top...dunno if that's around normal or not. I'll look in the service manual to check and see.

Well that's about it for now. Got a few minor things left to do to my car still. I got another driver side visor because I found out it has a passenger side visor on the driver side, so that's why it's not going up all the way. And I still have to figure out a way to secure the spare tire jack and stuff. Might just find a bolt that works and use that...I'm sure I might be able to find one.

By the way, I don't know if I said this, but the engine I had installed in my car only had 24k miles on it (very low for even a JDM engine). That's mostly why I didn't change any of the seals on it. But it doesn't seem to leak anything...the car's in my garage right now and I don't see a single drop on the concrete, and I've had the car running for about a half hour altogether now.

Hey everyone! Tonight I got my clutch adjusted correctly. Pedal height is the same as the brake pedal now, and there is around 2mm of clutch arm freeplay, as it says per the Haynes manual.

I also found a way to anchor my spare tire/jack/lug wrench/jack handle. Anchored the lug wrench and jack handle under the tire, bolted the tire to its stock location, and bolted the jack off to the side, where I think it was originally located.

Went for a test drive tonight. Wow...what a difference than how it was before the engine/clutch swap. Now it has considerable power, can climb hills no problem, drives nice and smooth, idles nice and smooth even at night. Idles right around 800rpm all the time. Clutch is touchy and will get a little getting used to, since I got used to driving that car with a bad clutch, so there is a BIG difference. Shifts nice.

I'm really happy everything went so well. After 500 miles I will change the oil again, just to be safe. Then after that I will do it every 3000 miles as usual.

I'm really curious to see what my mpg is now. I did drive 15 miles tonight and the gage didn't even move. I'm hoping to get at least 40mpg out of it. With two bad cylinders I still got 30mpg somehow.

That's about it for now. My day off (Tuesday) I will install the other driver side sunvisor, and that will be it for now.

Next on my agenda of buying stuff for the car are the following:

1. Splash shield (mentioned in another thread)
2. New 13x5.5 5-spoke machined rims and Falken performance tires
3. Get the dent repaired in the driver door, if at all possible. It's been there since I purchased the car.
4. Put in new carpet in car.
5. Better stereo system.
6. Windows tinted.
7. Car alarm system.

That should do it for parts for the next year or so (lol) or longer. I used to have Falken tires on my Ford Festiva I used to own, and they were really awesome.

Anyway, talk to you all later! I'll be driving my car for the next couple weeks probably.

Just wanted to give an update on my car. It's been running great. Only thing I came to find is that the engine was leaking some oil right under the distributor. After reading around on this forum, I came to realize it was probably the distributor o-ring that had to be replaced. When I pulled off the old o-ring, it cracked and broke...which told me that it probably was the culprit that was leaking. So I took the o-ring off the newer distributor that originally came with the engine I bought and put it on since it seems like brand new. Seems to have solved the problem! :)

That's about it for now. Talk to you all later! :)

Dan

Hey everyone. Just want to keep you updated on how my Geo's doing.

That oil leak I had was the oring in the distributor. No leaks now whatsoever.

I drove my car around 240 miles so far. No problems I can find. I didn't have a full tank of gas after I swapped motors, so I was down I think a gallon or so. But I just filled the tank again, and I found out that the car gets at least 36mpg now. That's much better than the 25-27mpg that it was getting. I'm thinking that it probably gets more between 36-40mpg. I will let you all know after I fill up again.

I should probably change the oil after the next fillup (500-600 miles after the engine swap). Just to make sure the oil is nice and clean, and that the engine keeps that way. After that, I will change oil every 3000 miles, or a little under that.

That's about it for now! I'll be back on probably now and then, but probably won't post unless either someone responds to this thread, or in a couple weeks.

Good to see ya got all the bugs worked out Dan! I've got my spare Metro engine on the engine stand now....Gonna tear it down and do a new " rings and head" rebuild like the Doc did in a couple of weeks from now myself!

My problem is my 92 geo metro dies at a stop sign. why? It can sit an idle all day but once you shift to any gear it will idle down and if you stop it it dies. thanks for any help!

elphelps, you should repost your question in a new topic on the main forum. I'm unsure why your car is dying at stops. But someone else could probably help you! Best of luck to you!

Hello everyone! Well it's been a long while since I posted anything about my Geo on here.

Been running great since putting in the newer motor and new clutch last year, roughly 12 months ago or so. Since my last post I put in new KYB struts, strut boots, and strut mounts. Also purchased American Racing 13x5.5 rims, and Yokohama AVID T4 P175/70R13 tires.

HOWEVER, I don't like how many negatives the Yokohama tires do to my car, such as throwing the speedometer off by around 5mph, raising the car an inch, decreasing my brake performance, and turning corners.

I plan on, within the next two to three months (probably around spring) I'm getting Sumitomo HTR200 P185/60R13 tires. Those should do MUCH better, as they have excellent customer reviews. And they're almost exactly the same diameter as the P155/80R12 tires that I originally had.

Also recently I got genuine gray leather seat covers for my Metro. And installed Magnum (made by MTX) dual 12" subs in the hatch, which included an amp. Makes the stereo sound awesome! Also purchased almost new door panels for $80 from Ebay.

I did a real nice install on the amp and subwoofer box. Took the seats out of the car, took off all the inside panels, and wrapped all the wires in coiled wire wrap stuff, and ran it through factory holes in the car. No exposed wires whatsoever. And with my inside hatch cover, my entire stereo (except for the head unit) is hidden and out of view. Also installed a Pioneer steering wheel control unit, which I can control the stereo from my steering wheel. Pretty awesome!

I also installed new inside door handles (door levers). The old ones were breaking, and the driver side one was broken). Now the doors open and close so smooth. AND when driving, there's no rattling at all from any panels inside the car, even with the stereo playing and the subwoofers playing. No rattles or unwanted noise inside the car, or outside the car.

On my stereo (I think I have the Pioneer 3900 stereo), I set my 4" speakers with a HPF of 250Hz (they won't get any sound under 250Hz), and set my subwoofers to take anything under 250Hz. I can turn my stereo so high up now, clear, and sounds like a $2000 stereo system. Can't believe it. Makes driving long trips SOO much more enjoyable!

Also, doing mostly city driving, just to and from work all the time (6 miles each way), I get exactly 40mpg. Haven't really driven on long trips with my new tires and rims yet. Might wait until I get my new tires.

Anyway, overall, my Geo is in great shape. The fog lights/driving lights help a great deal at night, they light up the road like crazy. FYI the lights I installed are Hella Optilux 2020's (combo driving/fog light system).

What I have left to do with my Geo, is get another driver door for it (I can't stand the dent that's in it...it's the only dent on the entire car), and then get my Geo repainted. I like the teal color it is, so I will probably get it repainted the same exact color.

Also need to get the windows tinted. Will tint the back 3 first. Thinking about getting all of them 20% tinted. I had a Ford Festiva that I had that same shade, and I could see out of the car at night with no problem, and was the right darkness during the day. Got a quote for like $120 for the back three windows, which is really cheap in my opinion.

Well that's enough for now. I will keep you all informed on what goes on, and you're welcome to leave comments and stuff! I will be taking photos of my Geo sometime soon when the rain lets up on one of my days off so I can take photos. :) More to follow, and take care everyone!

~Dan~

Hi again everyone! Last week I did get my windows tinted, got 20% on the back three, and an eyebrow on the windshield to match the back windows. Didn't get the doors tinted yet, will get them done in Spring/Summer.

My next job I'm going to do, is swap out the Yokohama AVID T4 tires I have on it right now (P175/70R13), with some Nexen N2000 P175/60R13 tires (so I can get closer to stock size, but be a lot wider).

Anyway more to follow! Will probably get the tires within the next 2-3 weeks!

Hey there DanMan7. Excellent job on your Metro. I, myself went through the expense of a rebuild and JDM tranny and so far everything is going great. I'm close to 3,000 miles on my rebuild and I'm puting the Silver Bullet through the test. I drive 100 miles each day, to and from work and having this little booger has been great. Your little Metro looks nice, by the way. I think you'll enjoy years of great service from it.
I've really gotten attached to mine, after driving it a couple years. One thing I have learned is: you can wear these things out. The top ends are the only issue that I have seen. At 207,000 miles, my cylinders had no taper and my ring end gaps were still at .016. My compression was still above 184 psi per hole. The only reason I rebuilt it, because my rear main seal and torque converter seal blew and I was loosing oil way too fast, but the little tiny three banger still was running strong.
I believe that if you pull the head and find a good set of cylinders, you can get by, with just replacing the head, no matter what mileage you have on it. These engines are a lot like the (numerous) outboard motors I've rebuilt in the past. The cylinders and rings hold up, longer than ANY other part of the whole car. It's just that the lifter assemblies are not that great. If you keep good oil in these things, the bottom end will hold up long enough to go through two cylinder heads.