Starter problem...will bypass work???

Hi...I constantly have problems with my starter had to replace it 3 times already & the idle control valve too last year. I have new spark plugs & battery. The mechanic can't figure why it's having the same problem, so he install a bypass connection w/a fuse. It work for a lil' whiles now it's sounds if the engine is flooded when I crank it. I have a 96 camry 2.2 L 4cyl w/ 189K miles..... Any suggestions??? God Bless to all!!!

Tiff :frown:

Tiff,

You need to give us a better discription of what is actually happening when the car doesn't start. Is the starter not cranking (turning over or spinning) the engine? If so, do you hear 1 click or a series of rapid clicks when it doesn't turn? Does the starter turn the engine, but the engine will not start? Does the engine sputter but not start? Does the engine start and then imediately die?

Also, what has been done to rectify this non-start problem, besides replacing the starter 3 times?

What is the mechanic bypassing with this connection?

Mike

Hi...I constantly have problems with my starter had to replace it 3 times already
Tiff :frown:
============
I would be very surprised if you are using genuine Toyota remanufactured (or new) starters.
In my experience, it is not uncommon for aftermarket "rebuilt" units to fail repeatedly which is why after replacing my last starter twice under a "lifetime guarantee" I went for the factory part. No more problems.

Then again, I put an Autozone starter and water pump (Bosch?) on my van in 98 and they're still there goin strong. I would tend to agree with Daniel D but, these exceptions can make it tough to decide where to buy parts. I agree with Mike G. we need more info.

Hi Daniel, Mike, & RIP...

When I crank it clicks once then dies, some mornings it sounds like the engine is flooded. What's sputter? I took the car to the mechanic my dad knows, & had requested for an OEM starter, which he had charge me $350 including labor. So, I'm guessing it should have been OEM part, right guys? Some days I am able to start the engine then it dies. One more q while driving the car it's smooth no noise but when I am at a signal light the engine shakes? Slowly release the brake it stops...What's the deal with that?

Mechanic stated the bypass will give it a kick to start.

Should I do an engine swap? If so, what would you recommend?

Thanks fellas!!!

I see no starter problems here. Especialy if it is OEM.

I would look into regular maintenance items: spark plugs, wires, distributor cap.

Fuel delivery.

Sam

Sure would be nice to know exactly what this "bypass" is bypassing. Could it be the neutral start switch (bad, bad, bad idea) or the starter relay?

If your starter has Denso or Nippondenso stamped on it, it's an OEM starter. Some starters are built to OEM standards and are just as good. Normally name brands like Bendix, Borg Warner, or Bosch fall into that catagory.

Your shaking at stop lights could be worn motor mounts or low idle rpm. Should be 700 rpm. You say it runs smooth when pulling away so I would eliminate an engine miss from a bad plug wire, spark plug or ignition coil.

Which is happening? (1)You turn the key, you hear a click and nothing happens. (2)You turn the key, hear a click, the starter turns the engine, the engine barely starts to run, then dies. (3) Something else.

You should never let the starter run more then 15-20 seconds. More than that and it overheats and decreases it's life. Crank 15 seconds then if it doesn't start, let it sit a minute to cool then try it again.

Sputter is when you have started the engine, released the key, but the engine never gets to full idle rpm. It sounds like it is not running on all cylinders and many times dies.

Hi Daniel, Mike, & RIP...

When I crank it clicks once then dies, some mornings it sounds like the engine is flooded. What's sputter? I took the car to the mechanic my dad knows, & had requested for an OEM starter, which he had charge me $350 including labor. So, I'm guessing it should have been OEM part, right guys? Some days I am able to start the engine then it dies. One more q while driving the car it's smooth no noise but when I am at a signal light the engine shakes? Slowly release the brake it stops...What's the deal with that?

Mechanic stated the bypass will give it a kick to start.

Should I do an engine swap? If so, what would you recommend?

Thanks fellas!!!

If by clicks once and then dies you mean you hear one click and then nothing happens (no other noise), then it definitely is a starter solenoid contact problem. If this is what is happening, then you can test for this yourself. When it doesn't start and you hear this 1 click, you have someone hold the key in the start position while you go under the hood and tap the starter with something like a small hammer. Give it a good tap but don't try to break it. If the starter then cranks the engine, you have varified you have a problem with the starter's internal solenoid contacts. If that's the case, read the attached link and/or show it to your mechanic:

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=166530

Sputter is when the starter is cranking the engine and you hear something like "POP" crank "POP" crank "POP" crank ect. It means the spark plugs are occasionally firing the mixture in the cylinders, but not consistantly enough for the engine to fully catch and run on it's own. That's my best layman's discription of sputter. Is this what is happening or is the starter not cranking the engine?

I was under the impression that Toyota dealers no longer sell "new" OEM Toyota starters. The are usually having local rebuilders rebuild the defective Toyota starters. I may be wrong about this. Perhaps someone who has worked at a dealer recently can chime in here.

That little bit of vibration at idle is normal for the 92-96 4 cylinder 5SFE engine.

Like RIP, I still don't know what this bypass is bypassing and what is really happening when the engine doesn't start.

Mike

The bypass wires is connected to the battery & the altenator. Does that help much?

I just got my car back from the body shop, I will try what you guys suggested & let u know the result of it.

Thanks! :)

The bypass wires is connected to the battery & the altenator. Does that help much?

I just got my car back from the body shop, I will try what you guys suggested & let u know the result of it.

Thanks! :)

Tiff,

Sorry, that doesn't really help. There is normally a connection from the alternator to the battery.

Let us know what happens with our suggestions.

Mike

Sounds like the bypass might be the fusible link? Maybe?

I once had a mechanic put in a 30-amp fuse (like a real green 30-amp fuse that belongs in a fuse box) as a fusible link and it caused all kinds of problems in a car with a questionable electrical system to begin with.

I took it to a different mechanic who looked up the original schematics for the vehicle and replaced it again with 16-gauge wire. No problems since.