Yep, 2 quarts daily.
BIG oil leak, obviously. Can someone post pics of the oil cooler lines, and where they mount at?
I need to get this taken care of, and dont have the cash to pay a shop.

Is there a temporary fix? Ive read that its usually the crimp connectors that leak, can I just put new connectors on?

There are two sets of two lines each. One set runs from the engine oil filter adapter to the remote filter mount. To replace that set, the left side of the engine needs to be raised up to remove and replace the line. The second set runs from the oil filter remote mount to the radiator. That set is a snap to replace, 15 minutes top. Most auto parts stores stock the lines, they are made by Dorman. Stay away from OEM, (dealer) that is unless you want the new lines to leak again!

Also take a look at the gasket where the adaptor for the remote filter feed lines attaches to the engine block.

I just replaced the front ones on my '95, that run from the filter to the radiator. Not that hard to replace. I got them from O'Reilly auto parts; (DORMAN - Oil Cooler Hose Assembly) I looked them up on-line and then called the store, at first the clerk couldn't find them in his catalog, be sure to tell them to look in the Dorman catalog. O'Reilly was 10 bucks cheaper than other stores. ($29 front - $45 rear)

As Old Master stated, the rear lines that run from the filter to the engine are something else. On mine there is an engine brace from the engine to the transmission that runs between the two lines, (the two rear lines are joined together on each end and don't separate). There is hardly any way to remove the brace without raising the engine to get to the bolt. My rear lines didn't appear to be leaking that bad, if at all, so that project will wait till spring.

also make sure that your remote filter mount is not cracked either. Me and you seem to have the exact same problems with our trucks at the same time. I havent fixed this problem yet but my mount is cracked along with the lines as well

For 2wd only 1 set, then 4wd has 2 sets and the rear is the fun one due to engine mount and front diff as stated above. The front set is easy if you remove the air filter box (1 nut and the front 2 mounts are pull outs) to reach the plastic retainers (pull back) and then remove C clip and pull out. Rears on 4wd I pull the long engine mount bolt (pain and takes 2 people to reach) so when jacking the engine up I do NOT crack the rubber/separate the mounting rubber - takes an inch or two to fit that line in and to reach the filter end bolt long extensions on from the front (18-24" needed) and take your time.

There are two sets of two lines each. One set runs from the engine oil filter adapter to the remote filter mount. To replace that set, the left side of the engine needs to be raised up to remove and replace the line. The second set runs from the oil filter remote mount to the radiator. That set is a snap to replace, 15 minutes top. Most auto parts stores stock the lines, they are made by Dorman. Stay away from OEM, (dealer) that is unless you want the new lines to leak again!

Far be it from me to EVER contradict the Master, but I just did a line set replacement yesterday on a 2000 Jimmy 4WD. There was no need to raise the engine at all. The manifold block for the oil lines attaching to the oil filter adapter (on the block) can be negotiated out of the space and past the mount and oil pan flange without raising the engine, but it's a little tricky in that the manifold needs to be oriented just right. Perhaps the 2000 is different, but I was able to get the line pair out more easily than I was able to get the bolt out. I only did the filter set, since the cooler set appeared intact. Of course, the more difficult set would be the leaker.

Incidentally, the Dorman set is P/N 625001. The set comes with new seals and was under $50.

Check Your Rear Main Seal

Blue Bowtie,
Thanks for the info, I haven't done a 2000 yet, or maybe my patience isn't what it used to be ;) I have always raised the engine.

I just replaced the front ones on my '95, ........ On mine there is an engine brace from the engine to the transmission that runs between the two lines, (the two rear lines are joined together on each end and don't separate). There is hardly any way to remove the brace without raising the engine to get to the bolt. ..

The arrangement you describe is 1995 ONLY. You don't have to raise the engine, remove front tire and reach in to get the top bolt off the brace. Also must get 1995-only hose set, as the 1996 and later set will not allow room for the brace to pass through.

Reality check time guys, look back at the original post weeping oil lines aren't going to start losing 2 quarts over night without a huge mess under the hood that is easy to locate. this dude has other issues.

Looking at original post seems that more time should be spent looking underneath than reading forums, sorry it seems obvious to me.

The plastic gaurd/plate can be removed to expose the leak perhaps?

The arrangement you describe is 1995 ONLY. You don't have to raise the engine, remove front tire and reach in to get the top bolt off the brace. Also must get 1995-only hose set, as the 1996 and later set will not allow room for the brace to pass through.
Thanks for the info on the '95 only hose. I didn't think the one I purchased looked the same. The front one fit ok.

I had the front wheel off and looked it over. There doesn't appear to be any easy way to get to the top bolt on the brace. The only access I see is a small opening about 3 inches high and 6 inches long above the frame, not enough to get a hand and wrench through. And, the bolt doesn't appear to be accessible from the bottom, but I haven't been there yet. Just hope the hose will last till spring.

And, if the hose is to rupture at the crimp connector, where they usually leak at, yes it can easily dump 2-quarts of oil a day.

I did my 95 a few years ago, I don't remember much about it, other than it was kinda pain to do and I did not move engine at all.

I just did my set going to radiator a few months ago in the parking lot at work. Later I retraced steps and it dumped most all the oil out in less than 1 mile.

I have a 97 Blazer 4.3 engine 4wd. I have read through some of these posts and it seems like I may have to lift my engine slightly to get the rear lines off. I have never done anything like this can you seasoned vetrans advise me in case I do have to raise the engine to get to mine.

Spit