thermostat location ,how to


bellsguns
01-11-2007, 12:29 PM
:banghead:
hi all...........
not to brite when it come s to autos.

so make it plain, and simple if can...please!!!!:screwy:

:iceslolan can anyone tell me the location of the thermostat and how to change it? i have a 99 lincoln merc villager estate.

any pics or layouts on the net that you know of that i could use in addition to any help here?


thanks so much:smokin:

drcoffee
06-27-2007, 08:33 AM
http://autorepair.about.com/library/a/1g/bl721g.htm

Try this link for instructions and pictures

QuestOverload
06-27-2007, 12:24 PM
http://autorepair.about.com/library/a/1g/bl721g.htm

Try this link for instructions and pictures
Way to dig up old threads!

drcoffee
06-27-2007, 01:28 PM
Way to dig up old threads!

There's so little chat here and even less with value, that I thought someone doing a search could make use of the information. You may have noticed that NOBODY replied to the question until today. I know it took me several days to find that link with no help from several forums(cough , cough). I like to think of it as paying it forward.

QuestOverload
07-02-2007, 10:28 AM
There's so little chat here and even less with value, that I thought someone doing a search could make use of the information. You may have noticed that NOBODY replied to the question until today. I know it took me several days to find that link with no help from several forums(cough , cough). I like to think of it as paying it forward.
No help? How's this?


QUESTOVERLOAD'S THERMOSTAT REPLACEMENT HOW-TO

You'll have to drain some coolant, remove the upper radiator hose, remove the u-shaped coolant bypass hose, the AC idler bracket and the AC belt.

The clamps on the bypass hose musta been installed by a robot because it's near impossible for a human to get a good squeeze on them, and I usually end up poking them with a screwdriver as I squeeze them to get them started moving. When you reinstall them, put em where you can get to em! :D

AC belt comes off with an 8mm allen key. I have one cut to size to fit in an 8mm racheting wrench and it's a lifesaver. AC Idler bracket takes some wiggling thanks to the huge bolt and the ABS interfering with each other (easy on Quests with no ABS).

The thermostat housing is pretty easy to get off with everything out of the way. I like to use an 18" breaker bar with a deepwell socket to get the bottom bolts started as it gives me the leverage to crack them loose at the really strange angle. Knock it off with a hammer and and the breaker bar; the factory sealant is TOUGH (and be prepared for some coolant to fly out).

With it out, clean the block and themostat housing and install the new t-stat by gluing it into the notch in the t-stat housing with Permatex Hi-Tack. The spring side goes into the housing and the flat side faces the block. Line the jiggle valve on the t-stat up with the top rear bolt hole for best results when you burp the system of air.

Walk away and don't even BREATHE on the T-stat housing for 30min while the Hi-tack sets up :lol: If your housing isn't notched, this job is hell (try to glue it to the block instead, but it doesn't work too well), but I think all 94+ got the notched housing.

Put a thin film of RTV on the gasket surface of the housing (Nissan used RTV at the factory) and give it a minute to set before installing the t-stat housing assembly. I use 2 studs (bolts with cut-off heads since I can't buy studs) in each corner as locating pins while I install the real bolts, makes life easy.

Reassemble and you're done. I like stant 180 degree thermostats. Good luck!

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