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Still with my problem. Moisture?


david-b
01-06-2007, 01:09 PM
Hey all;
For the longest time now I've had the problem with when I'm drivning and pop to neutral, the rpms drop, then shoot back up to 2k and stay there for a while. Then when I'm rolling up to the light, it bounces 1200 - 1500 until I come to a complete stop. I believe its the EGR valve bc I've gotten CELs from it before, but haven't in a long time now.

Anywho, I noticed (since its been raining really bad the last couple days) that when it's wet like that, the problem goes away. When I shift out of gear, rpms drop right down to 800-900 and stay there. Does that sound like a EGR problem? Would moisture cause the EGR to work properly then? I've cleaned and cleaned it and it works fine, but after a while it goes back to the way it was. Again, I'm cheap and don't want to spend the money unless I need to. Gas mileage still sucks also.

Blackcrow64
01-06-2007, 01:20 PM
Ya know what. This is exactly the same problem I had with the Firebird... After putting a new PCV valve in, it seemed to help. Mine was so bad that it would actually stall after idle surging a few times like that. Perhaps its a similar problem? Mine is starting to do it again some but nothing like it was. Also my fuel mileage is absolutly horrible. I am gonna try the fuel filter next on mine to see if that helps the situation.

david-b
01-06-2007, 02:21 PM
So the PCV valve helped? Has the F-Bird ever thrown a CEL for the EGR at all? My fuel filter is brand new and clean.

crunchymilk55
01-06-2007, 02:32 PM
my eclipse does the same thing and so does my civic, not worth the effort to fix imo

I think it has more to do with coasting fuel cut, dsmlink had some settings and when I messed with those, it would change how it acted.

Blackcrow64
01-06-2007, 02:34 PM
So the PCV valve helped? Has the F-Bird ever thrown a CEL for the EGR at all? My fuel filter is brand new and clean.
The PCV valve helped and it was like 2 bucks I think? It has never thrown a CEL my way before... Knock on wood... :uhoh:

david-b
01-06-2007, 03:56 PM
I ordered one on my way home from work today. Autozone apparently doesn't carry an PCV valves in store.sad.

Anyways, I got home and pulled mine and checked it out. IIRC, I'm only supposed to be able to blow air one way through it, correct? I could do both ways. The little bar in the middle was loose, and would move around. If I pulled it all the way down, then air could only flow one way. But it I didn't keep it down, air would flow both ways. Also, there was oil in the lines. Not alot, but I don't know how much should be in there. The valve is coming in on the 10th, so hopefully that'll fix it.

Crunchy: The car never did that until up until about 6 months ago. Gas mileage took a shit and the idle has been nothing put crappy. I'm working on to see what it is and to save on some gas. And really, the valve cost $4. Can't go wrong there. :)

defiancy
01-06-2007, 04:42 PM
Honeslty I don't think your EGR valve would affect anything like that. My car doesn't even have the EGR hooked up and it's a common mod to remove it. I don't really know why you have it on your car as I thought only CA models came with it. But I could be wrong about that.

The EGR simply recirculates a fraction of the exhaust from your exhaust back into the cylinder head, about 5% to 15%. If anything I would think having it disconnected or not running would actually make the car run better.

But if you can blow through both ways on your PCV valve that is definately a problem.

gthompson97
01-06-2007, 05:10 PM
Defiancy is correct, the EGR won't make your car run any worse/better, all the EGR does is recirculate a fraction of the unburned exhaust gases back into the intake mani so they can go through the combustion chamber and be burned up. PCV valves will cause some funky idles, but I don't know how badly they affect gas mileage, you might have two problems instead of just one.

david-b
01-06-2007, 05:22 PM
I have the EGR valve on bc I have emmissions here in IL. I also don't like running the car with the CEL on. I'm sure once the head is done and I go to the track, the EGR will get temperarily blocked off.

I thought EGR bc the CEL told me it was it. However, on 2 different EGRs (both valves and sensor, both used tho) I got the same CEL. Well, the PCV is going to go in and we'll see how that helps. I'm going to get to the cause of it one of these days. I'll keep you guys informed.

defiancy
01-06-2007, 09:49 PM
I have the EGR valve on bc I have emmissions here in IL. I also don't like running the car with the CEL on. I'm sure once the head is done and I go to the track, the EGR will get temperarily blocked off.

I thought EGR bc the CEL told me it was it. However, on 2 different EGRs (both valves and sensor, both used tho) I got the same CEL. Well, the PCV is going to go in and we'll see how that helps. I'm going to get to the cause of it one of these days. I'll keep you guys informed.

If you care is similar in emissions to mine or to turbo eclipses, if you disconnect a certain relay on there it will remove the EGR from the system without you having to actually remove it and it will not throw a CEL for it anymore. On our cars it's on the drivers side firewall in the engine bay. On yours I have no idea.

Black99GST
01-06-2007, 09:57 PM
If you care is similar in emissions to mine or to turbo eclipses, if you disconnect a certain relay on there it will remove the EGR from the system without you having to actually remove it and it will not throw a CEL for it anymore. On our cars it's on the drivers side firewall in the engine bay. On yours I have no idea.
Not trying to thread jack or anything but, Why would you want to remove the EGR? is their any benefit to this? :screwy: because i dont have to pass any emissions...i have my ways:evillol:... and that is a fairly simple sounding mod!

defiancy
01-06-2007, 10:06 PM
Not trying to thread jack or anything but, Why would you want to remove the EGR? is their any benefit to this? :screwy: because i dont have to pass any emissions...i have my ways:evillol:... and that is a fairly simple sounding mod!


Well if you take a look at it the car is dumping exhaust that has already passed through the engine back into the engine. You could remove it or simply just disable it for the following reasons. It's going to keep your intake temperature cooler due to the fact that the hot exhaust that just came out of the exhaust side of the head is not going right into your manifold and mixing with cold air.
Also your replacing cold air, with hot exhaust. If you disable it, that is more cold air that flows in there and takes the place of that exhaust that was in there before.


Because the amount of exhaust flowing into the motor isn't that great, only about 5% to 15% the mod of removing, or simply disabling your EGR is mostly to reduce the ambient air temperature of your intake.

I know, and have seen several EGR plate kits, that allow you to completely remove your EGR and replace it with a solid plate you simply screw in.

david-b
01-07-2007, 12:39 AM
I have one of those plates. Don't know why but I ordered one cheap long time ago and it's sitting in my closet. So there's a relay for the EGR? There's a couple on the firewall close to the drivers side. And does this garentee no CEL? I still have to block off the pipes tho too right?

defiancy
01-07-2007, 06:21 AM
I have one of those plates. Don't know why but I ordered one cheap long time ago and it's sitting in my closet. So there's a relay for the EGR? There's a couple on the firewall close to the drivers side. And does this garentee no CEL? I still have to block off the pipes tho too right?


I am no 420a expert but on the 4g63t, those relays on the firewall controll the EGR. They run a bunch of vac lines to the EGR among other things. If you disconnect those relays and vac lines there is no EGR code. I speak from experience considering my car has those disconnected and no code. I also spoke to my shop about them and they informed me of the same. I am assuming that there is an equivalent on the 420a as well.

david-b
01-07-2007, 09:58 AM
I am no 420a expert but on the 4g63t, those relays on the firewall controll the EGR. They run a bunch of vac lines to the EGR among other things. If you disconnect those relays and vac lines there is no EGR code. I speak from experience considering my car has those disconnected and no code. I also spoke to my shop about them and they informed me of the same. I am assuming that there is an equivalent on the 420a as well.

Cool, I will do some research and make sure those relays are the same and give it a try. Do I still need to block off the egr still? Or just by disconnecting the relays will that just stop the flow, like staying closed?

defiancy
01-07-2007, 05:21 PM
Cool, I will do some research and make sure those relays are the same and give it a try. Do I still need to block off the egr still? Or just by disconnecting the relays will that just stop the flow, like staying closed?

If you disconnect the relays the EGR will just remain closed, or off. I still have my EGR on my car, but I just have the relays disconnected.

You would be suprised how many VAC lines and such are only there for emissions purposes. I have eliminated about 75% of my VAC lines and emissions crap.

Blackcrow64
01-07-2007, 05:46 PM
You would be suprised how many VAC lines and such are only there for emissions purposes. I have eliminated about 75% of my VAC lines and emissions crap.
Trust me, I know... :p

The only ones I'll have on my car when its all said and done are the few basic ones needed for the turbo system items.

defiancy
01-07-2007, 09:13 PM
There are only three lines you need on there.

The one from the BOV to the intake manifold, from the intake to the valve cover, and from the FPR to the intake manifold.


Also the ones for your BCS/MBC/EBC

Black99GST
01-07-2007, 10:34 PM
I am no 420a expert but on the 4g63t, those relays on the firewall controll the EGR. They run a bunch of vac lines to the EGR among other things. If you disconnect those relays and vac lines there is no EGR code. I speak from experience considering my car has those disconnected and no code. I also spoke to my shop about them and they informed me of the same. I am assuming that there is an equivalent on the 420a as well.
and you say they are on the driveside by the firewall? i looked for them today, not really, but just glanced, and i didnt see any relays, are they lower on the firewall? perhaps under the brake booster?:screwy:

defiancy
01-08-2007, 01:17 AM
and you say they are on the driveside by the firewall? i looked for them today, not really, but just glanced, and i didnt see any relays, are they lower on the firewall? perhaps under the brake booster?:screwy:

I'm not sure on the 2g's. I know that they are there on the 1g's.

It's like a box and all the vac lines and crap that run behind the manifold run to it. If you trace those lines you should see it.

It should still be on the drivers side.

Mikelb
01-08-2007, 08:53 AM
when your rpms drop do you hear any noises?!? especially any clunking?!?

I had that problem out of my Stealth... the crank bearings were wearing and it would drop RPMs, usually after letting off out of some high RPM driving, it would clunk (sometimes die) and when it picked up, idle really high for awhile til it regained its composure...

I also had that problem out of my Eclipse ('97 RS), but it wasn't related to bearings... it was my IAT sensor, but the CEL came on and set out that code (IAT current too high)...

And on a different perspective... I drove a Crown Vic (V8 decked out) that had the EGR code come on... I talked with some friends at Advance who said change the PCV... We changed that and cleaned the intake (http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?categorycode=3233&mfrcode=LCO&mfrpartnumber=10003 12oz in fuel, 20 in intake[through PCV])
and the car will struggle to stay running and will smoke like a freight train, but gun it till the smoke stops... and that will clean the intake of all the crud it has... and that got rid of the CEL... you may need to clean the spark plugs or do a tuneup after doing this as it will foul them...

Those are just a few different things to think a/b, as they sound semi-sorta related...

david-b
01-08-2007, 10:24 AM
There's no clunking coming from the car at all. I've ran that cleaner through the tank before pretty recently, like a month ago or so. Loved that stuff. I'm going to wait for and replace the PCV. Then I'll go from there. I'm really thinking that this is the problem. Logically thinking, with how the car is acting, and exactly what the PCV valve is and does, it kinda makes sense. Is it the 10th yet? lol. We'll see.

I don't think its the IAT. No CELs for that ever. However, I am going to replace that next summer just because anyways.

Mikelb
01-08-2007, 10:29 AM
There's no clunking coming from the car at all. I've ran that cleaner through the tank before pretty recently, like a month ago or so. Loved that stuff. I'm going to wait for and replace the PCV. Then I'll go from there. I'm really thinking that this is the problem. Logically thinking, with how the car is acting, and exactly what the PCV valve is and does, it kinda makes sense. Is it the 10th yet? lol. We'll see.

I don't think its the IAT. No CELs for that ever. However, I am going to replace that next summer just because anyways.

still might wanna pull that IAT out and check it... since it's easy to do and not really time consuming... just pull it off the back of the manifold and make sure it's still intact... mine blew completely apart before... then I replaced it... and used carb cleaner and toasted the new one... :banghead:

2 days to go.... let us know how it turns out (I do believe that PCV is the problem though)

david-b
01-10-2007, 01:15 PM
Today I got the PCV valve and installed it. These damn one don't have the Chysler logo on them, but what ya going to do, right? So anyways, while taking off the old hose going from the valve to the valve cover, it basically disintegrated. Thing cracked and was a pain to get all the pieces off. So I got some heater hose and replaced that too and with new clamps.

Car runs great as of right now. It took a couple miles to see the difference, but when I left off the clutch or pop to neutral, the rpms fall and stay there. I still haven't had the idle surge problem while driving it around also. That seems to have been the problem. I'll be going to work tonight and driving around later so we'll see if there's any problem, however, from looking at it, the PCV valve seems to have been the problem. Yeah!! FINALLY!! Thanks everyone.

Blackcrow64
01-10-2007, 01:25 PM
+1 for me! lol :wink:

gthompson97
01-10-2007, 01:39 PM
Glad to see you finally got it fixed, just hope that it doesn't come back now! :thumbsup:

david-b
01-10-2007, 04:18 PM
Looks like the idle surge is still exsistant, which now takes me to the IAC. It's all good though. Not once when driving to work did the rpms go bouncing around when I let off. They fell down to idle and sat there. Then that once I had the little surges pulling up to the light.

david-b
01-10-2007, 09:53 PM
So I'm home now, damn I give too many updates. RPMs still fall perfectly, so the PCV was definitly a problem. However, the surging happens all the time. I did play with the fuel maps some today, and I have a higher % at idle then ever before. So that could contribute to it, but I'm thinking not. I'll probably pick up an IAC sometime soon, however, it's damn cold outside and it's oging to snow this weekend :(

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