Audiobahn ?'s

Ok, I have been talking to my friends bout audio for the whip. I've seen these subs, and they looks sick as hell. But my friends say Audiobahn burn up and blow easily and quick. Whats everybodys inputs on them before I blow my bank on them.


Audiobahn AWIS15P
15" Immortal Series Subwoofer

Product Description:


15" high-performance subwoofer
Immortal Series
proprietary tall excursion foam surround
ultra light 2-layer carbon fiber, Kevlar cone with aluminum dust cap
200 oz. triple stack magnet
quad voice coil wound on black anodized aluminum former
multi-connect lug lock terminals
chrome plated 3-dimensional cast aluminum basket
dual layer spider
aluminum basket and magnet mesh cover
Subwoofer Specifications:

Subwoofer Size (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_2420.html#specs) 15"
Impedance (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_2420.html#specs) Quad 2 ohms
Dual Voice Coil (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_2420.html#specs) No, Quad Voice Coil
Peak Power Handling (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_2420.html#specs) 4500 watts approx.
RMS Power Handling (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_2420.html#specs) 2250 watts
Woofer Surround (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_2420.html#specs) Foam Surround
Woofer Composition (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_2420.html#specs) N/A
Sealed Box Volume (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_2420.html#specs) Not Recommended
Ported Box Volume (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_2420.html#specs) 1.9 - 3.75 cubic ft.
Sensitivity (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_2420.html#specs) 97 dB
Frequency Response (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_2420.html#specs) 20 - 700 Hz
Xmax (millimeters) (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_2420.html#specs) N/A
Top Mount Depth (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_2420.html#specs) 9-5/8"
Cutout Diameter (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_2420.html#specs) 13-3/4"
Warranty (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_2420.html#specs) 1-year SE

audiobomb sucks.

The chrome basket and clean looking cone dont make for a good sub, there just for show, and yes audiobomb is crap.

Look into soundsplinter, and incriminator audio before you think about that crap.

I think you will find that most people that know about car audio stuff will tell you the same thing ...... audiobahn is pretty much all show and no go.

My audiobahn's ROCK, I've had them for about 5 years and they still hit crisp and clean and blow most other systems I encounter on the street out of the water. I bought mine right before audiobahn started with all their flame junk. I believe they are AW1205Q or AWT1205Q I can't remember. I started off running them on some cheapo pyramid amp while I saved up for a better one, they sounded good. I wound up messing that amp up ran them on only 300 watts for awhile and they still rocked. I then picked up a nicer Hifonics amp to power them and now they really sound great. Now that I'm getting a little older I don't crank it as much as I used to but they still make my hair stand on end even at half power.

I never heard bad things about audiobahn till they started making all those flame series things. My guess is maybe they dropped quality for looks? too bad I suppose. I would look at other brands or maybe older audiobahns like mine.

PS: stay away from audiobahn amps, I had one and it blew literally and figuratively.

Agreed. Audiobahn sucks.

Ive heard the older audiobahn is better then the new ones. Im sure thats true. Another question, i dont understand the difference in 1, 2 or 4 ohms, can someone clear that up? and Whats the difference between Peak and RMS?

PS: I am a newb when it comes to audio.

only look at rms, this is the max continuous power the driver can handle.
ohms is the measure of resistance to current. the lower the ohms the less resistance, meaning the amp will push more power, but if the resistance is too low the amp will become unstable.

dang, the old 1205/1505 series is like 10 years old ....... and true, their quality has greatly suffered since then, that used to be a popular sub back in the day - kinda like RE, sound splinter, stereo integrity, etc .. Look at what has happened with adire ...

so what is better? 1,2,4 ohms? or does it depend on the application

depends on the amp.

Yep, il go a little more in depth to help you understand

Theres several kind of voice coil setups the main 3 are single, dual and quad voice coils. Il keep it simple so il stick to the single and dual. Now theres 2-kinds of wiring setups that can be done parallel and series, when you wire in parallel, it gets tricky say you have one dual voice coil 4ohm subs, in this case you would take the 4ohm and divide it by 2 which nets 2-ohms of resitance, now say its a DVC 2ohm, no it becomes 1-ohm of resistance.

Where it gets tricky is in the dual sub setups say you have 2-DVC 4 ohm subs wiring them in parallel will net a 1-ohm final load, and with the DVC 2 ohms it becomes .5ohm final resistance. Theres wiring guides all over the net for this infinity, kicker, rockford, crutchfield, practiaclly anywhere you can get them has a wiring diagram.

This is my favorite one you just enter the value of the resistance and put it down for as many coils as you have

http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/boxcalcs.asp

Now for series wiring you just add the resistance to how many coils you have so say you have a dvc 4 ohm, now it becomes 8 when wired in series, for dvc 2-ohm it becomes 4ohm.

Liek stated it depends on the amp on how you wire it. Now there are subs that get crazy like quad .5ohm, and 3 ohm, and ive seen quad .25 ohm before. But keep to the basics of single and dual voice coils.

there are 3 ways to wire it. series, series parallel, parallel. not just two.



and to the which ohm is better. 4 and higher usally sounds better but with subs you can't tell the difference.

C'mon man i was trying to keep it somewhat simple.

But yeah there are 3 ways.

yea i know but with dvc 2 ohm subs series parallel wiring is being used more then series. and maybe even parallel since most amps that are .5 ohm stable tend to be pricey

dang I really need a tuturial on speaker and amp conections in the newbie thread.

lol Admin, that might b a smart idea, ecspecally with me. lol

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_3440.html

good sub or na?

Better but there is alot better out there for the same price or less.

the old audiobahn was built by dd and those were damn good subs but the new ones suck... not to mention audiobahn sold out so no audiobahn i guess

the old audiobahn was built by dd


That explains a LOT

yeah anyways audiobahn sold to pyle audio so they are gonna suck alot worse

Where are you getting your info, how does a company as small as pyle afford someone as big audiobomb. Please id like to see a link.

well audiobahn didn't sell out completely but they have sold there design and they don't make speakers anymore
not to mention pyle is not a small company they manufacture stuff for audiobahn already so pyle really isn't that small

Pyle has been around for a LONG time ...... I had a pair of pyle 12's in the mid 80's. Gotta remember, there wasn't much out there back then.

Oh i know Pyle has been around for a while, alot of these companies have and some of them have gone down the drain while others have maintained a some what decent level of product. And this isnt the first time audiobahn has sold designs theres another sub on the market using the motor structure from the eternal or imortal i cant remember. Besides its not like there products are going to be any better maybe more chrome but that would the best i could see.

Wow surprised to hear people think audiobahn sucks. Every unit ive seen installed or sold have lasted years and they have great customer service. But hey to each thier own.

Well everyone has different experiences with them, ive heard good and bad but a nice 90% has been bad and even the very few ive owned have been complete shit. I mean how do you blow an spl sub using half the rated rms power, sealed box and near perfect gain settings. And the otehr things is that a nice majority of audio sales, car/home is based on the end users preference on teh company. I hate going into circuit city, or going to car shows where the guys have never heard of anything other than what they sell and if they have heard of it its completely crap to them. Had one guy at MIR last year during nopi trying to sell me RF shit saying the punch 3 was the best sub RF has ever come out with i started comparing them to the RE Audio lines and he said who is that. Then he failed to realize that RF makes a power series, dumbest dealer iv ever met sells a companies stuff and never even knew that they have a line of elite products.

mainly what im looking for is something better then my friends subs. he has these : http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_7492.html .... he got two of those, some amp... dont kno but its a good one.. and he got it installed and such for 1500 (included a deck and ipod hookup) so im lookin for good subs and amps that are under 1500 and are better then his..... lol i sound so retarded but its what im lookin for

I mean how do you blow an spl sub using half the rated rms power, sealed box and near perfect gain settings.


because an amp can easily put out twice or more of it's rated power if you clip it heavily.

if you've got $1500 bucks to spend...you can get a dang good deal and have them sound xbetter than your friends, sound to me that he got jipped if he spent $1500 on 2 subs, an amp, HU and ipod hookup....could be me though. You can get complete all Aline Subs+box+Amp set for a little under $400, same with an Infinity setup, etc. etc. with $1500, you have quite a few options :).

YOur friend got boned.


What are looker for just bass, some nice quality sound with bass. And hwta vehicle is this all going in.


YEah paul ive destroyed a couple subs in my early days with clipping, but this is one of teh few my grandfather helped me with the o-scope with. It sounded good for an audiobahn then the smell of burnt copper came about.

i wanted it to hit hard and be heard from miles away and such but also sound nice and such.... and its either goin into a ford expodition for a while then into a bmw 3 series... 2000-2002

So id say either a tri-12" or dual-15" setup, and a really nice set of comps for the front. Depending on the room depends on the enclosure desing so if you pure spl and have a nice amount of cash, either DD, REaudio, soundsplinter, soundstream, mmats, stereo integrity and incriminator audio.

From what ive heard incriminator and sound splinter make really good SPL subs.

SPL means...

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_7710.html

wucha think?

SPL sound pressure level

Nice choice but you can have better for the same price or a little more.

http://www.soundsplinter.com/rlp15_premium_series_15_inch_DIY_subwoofer_informa tion.html


http://www.soundsplinter.com/rls_series/rls15_inch_LMT_DIY_car_home_subwoofer_information. html

i cant even find how many rms they produce...

Thats because its appliction dependant. They do have power ratings there but that changes depending on enclosure SQL or SPL setup and other factors.

Oh yeah the subs handle power and the amps produce power.

ok my friend has a set of these in his truck, and i dont kno what type of amp he has though... but it hits pretty hard and sounds good from when i was in it... whats ur thought? --> http://www.circuitcity.com/ssm/MTX-Dual-12-Subwoofer-Vented-Enclosure-TCE5512X2D/sem/rpsm/oid/147567/catOid/-13093/rpem/ccd/productDetail.do

rate it 1-10

1=bad 10 - good

four

ok i need help finishing this combonation:

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_7840.html# [head unit]
with
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_3440.html [kicker 15"]
or
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_5456.html [soundstream 15"]

also.. need help finding compatible,good amp and anything else required (besides box)

Ok so about 300-350 for a sub and about 350 for an HU.

While that seams like a nice price for a TFT dual equipment sucks.

The kicker would be a better spl sub. Il give you some ideas after i wake up and my hangover goes away.

lol all ur apprevations.. like tft. i have no clue. i am a complete newb at audio lol

beatboxn420, you seem to have a lot of questions and doubt in your choices for audio, and yes this is the place to get help, however, there is A LOT of information that would make life for you a lot easier if you understood why we advise certain things over another, why certain things are not compatible with others, what certain things mean, etc.

It is a lot of reading, but i guarantee if you take some time aside, and are serious about investing your hard-earned cash on something that makes sound, this website will teach you a lot you should know before buying anything. --> www.bcae1.com <--

When shopping for car audio, you're going to come to a point where you'll realize, "holy hell, i'm not gonna be able to afford that...", because you're going to want to buy some nice things, but you should realize that they won't even perform to their full capability unless everything else in your car is up to par. Loosely put, your audio system is only as good as its weakest link. If you buy an incriminator or ascendant sub, you better find an effecient, powerful amp. If you buy CDT speakers, you better invest in plenty of sound-deadening. No matter how nice a head unit you buy, you'd better buy a spereate amp to power your speakers, rather than powering them from your head-unit.
...you can see how this is getting expensive.

again, this is also why the afformentioned website will help, as well as the tutorials here on AF, and we're also always willing to help. just realize there's a lot more to audio than you read here.

ps, i know its been established, Audiobahns suck the big 1

ok, I don't think I ever seen the abbreviation TFT either (at least not for car stereo)

Sorry i figured anyone who has been around LCD HU's would understand the TFT thing.

In-Dash 7" Touchscreen TFT-LCD Monitor with DVD, Multimedia CD/MP3 Playback

Not really an abbreviation just me being a little lazy.

yeah, most laptop screens and mobile phone screens are TFT, a type of LCD monitor. Thin Film Transistor.

multiple channels means u can have more then one compont hooked to it?

ex: 1 channel amp only excepts 1 sub or 2 channel amp excepts 2 subs?

no, you can put as many speakers on a single channel amp as you want, as long as the impedance is at an acceptable value.
ex: 1000 4 ohm speakers wired in a series paralell config to achieve a 4 ohm load on an amp that is stable at 4 ohms.
You must also take into account the amount of power your amp will push at that load and the power handleing of the speakers.
ex(same setup as previous, 1000 speakers on one amp): the amp will push 1000 watts at 4 ohms and the speakers can each handle 1 watt.
all of that power is divided by the amount of speakers on the amp.

ight i think i found my combonation:

2 kicker 2 ohms, 15" L7 solo-barics with a boss blx3500m amp

wucha think?

build a nice enclosure, get some sound-deadening, and you've got the bass covered. if you in the future you want to invest more, switch in new comps up front, maybe some new coax's for rear-fill if you want, a 4-ch amp, and more sound-dead.

I know the TFT for monitor stuff ..... was thinking about stereo stuff

ight i think i found my combonation:

2 kicker 2 ohms, 15" L7 solo-barics with a boss blx3500m amp

wucha think?



get a better amp.

Thats going to be so incredibly loud. You will think its cool for a few months then get sick of it. Why dont you get some accurate smaller subs that actually sound like real instruments.

get a better amp.
:werd:

i'm sorry if its been covered, but, what kind of music do you listen to? alphalanos is right, I usually listen to metal in my car, so bass booming isn't the route to go. Even hip hop, its fun (for a while) but actually sounds better when everything is leveled out.

rap.

ex: yo gotti, 3 6 mafia, lil scrappy, project pat.

and wut amp to u surrgest?

it usually sounds best when the subs are set about 6-10 dB above the mid/tweet level ..... most boom cars are more like 25-50 dB above avg level.

Its even better when they invest all there money in the HU, amps, and subs and just run there speakers off the HU. SOunds like a fart box on wheels.