oil pressure reads 130

when i start up my 98 blazer the oil pressure reads 130 and the lifters rattle! i hooked a gauge up to make sure 130 was right after it runs awail it drops to about 40.i have ran flush in the oil bypassed the oil cooler and changed the oil filter still no change

when i start up my 98 blazer the oil pressure reads 130 and the lifters rattle! i hooked a gauge up to make sure 130 was right after it runs awail it drops to about 40.i have ran flush in the oil bypassed the oil cooler and changed the oil filter still no change

What oil and oil filter are you using?

fram extra guard ph3980

fram extra guard ph3980

There's your problem. Change the filter to a Wix, SuperTech...anything but a Fram on any engine.

There is a TSB that the Fram will cause the startup knock.

Also, what oil?

pensol 5w30

pensol 5w30

Ok, proper grade, now go and swap on another filter, you don't have to change your oil to do it, just unscrew the filter off and allow it to drain and then swap a new filter on. Start it up and allow it to idle for 5 minutes or so.

what about the extra high pressure im sure it will couse leaks

I'm surprised, most filters won't take a lot over 100 psi, anyways you may have a stuck pump bypass.

I would get two readings, one immideately after starting (idle) and one after revving cold.

How old is this problem?

it just started a few days ago,i haven't been driving it,were is the pump bypass?

I'm surprised, most filters won't take a lot over 100 psi, anyways you may have a stuck pump bypass.

I would get two readings, one immideately after starting (idle) and one after revving cold.

How old is this problem?

Never EVER rev a cold engine.

Comon man, think a bit, he has an oil pressure problem and tapping lifters and you want him to rev his engine?

If he is peaking his oil pressure at idle, revving his engine could lead to a blown engine.

First thing to do is replace the filter and go from there.

Sorry for the stupid questions, but what is revving?

And what is the difference between 5W30 and 10W40 oils? Know we should have 5W30 but what will be the effect if I put 10W40 in it?

5W30 is hard to find nowdays... (in Sweden, is my experience)

//F

Sorry for the stupid questions, but what is revving?

And what is the difference between 5W30 and 10W40 oils? Know we should have 5W30 but what will be the effect if I put 10W40 in it?

5W30 is hard to find nowdays... (in Sweden, is my experience)

//F

Don't worry about the revving. You don't want to do it to a cold engine. It will damage it.

Use 5w30 only and just swap in a new oil filter. Have you replaced the oil filter yet?

when i start up my 98 blazer the oil pressure reads 130 and the lifters rattle! i hooked a gauge up to make sure 130 was right after it runs awail it drops to about 40.i have ran flush in the oil bypassed the oil cooler and changed the oil filter still no change

As BlazerLT says pitch that Fram filter in the trash can.
And hook that oil cooler back up OEM.
Did the problem start before or after flush.
Was it a dirty high mileage engine when you flushed it?
What kind of flush or how did you flush it?

Also was a new filter used after he flushed it. Could have gunked up the old one.

the problom started befor the flush i have changed the filter and oil aswell as hooked the cooler back up, still no change 130 cold at idal

it just started a few days ago,i haven't been driving it,were is the pump bypass?

The pump bypass is inside the body of the oil pump and controls the pressure (along with the downstream system) with a simple spring loaded piston valve.

When the discharge pressure gets to a point of overcoming the spring , it is suposed to compress spring allowing the piston to uncover ports connecting discharge to suction side of pump and a loss (or control of) pressure.

Since the pressure is related to the rpm (revving) of the engine, the rev test may give a very clear view of a malfuntioning bypass without any damage to engine or lifters. The wieght/temp of oil or the filter will have nothing to do with it although may simply shift the rpm range up or down.

Start engine cold and while staring at pressure reading at slowest possible idle, start increasing rpm gradually as you read corresoponding oil pressure increase. There will be a point at while the rpm is still being increased the pressure will not ( normal may be 60 #) Yours will probably continue to rise until 130 when all of a sudden the valve moves and the pressure drops. In case this is the problem it is remedied by cleaning or replacement of the valve or a new pump. They should be cheap, but quite a bit of labor to remove oil pan and pump.

Another telling test would be to do exact same thing when engione is hot.

The pump bypass is inside the body of the oil pump and controls the pressure (along with the downstream system) with a simple spring loaded piston valve.

When the discharge pressure gets to a point of overcoming the spring , it is suposed to compress spring allowing the piston to uncover ports connecting discharge to suction side of pump and a loss (or control of) pressure.

Since the pressure is related to the rpm (revving) of the engine, the rev test may give a very clear view of a malfuntioning bypass without any damage to engine or lifters. The wieght/temp of oil or the filter will have nothing to do with it although may simply shift the rpm range up or down.

Start engine cold and while staring at pressure reading at slowest possible idle, start increasing rpm gradually as you read corresoponding oil pressure increase. There will be a point at while the rpm is still being increased the pressure will not ( normal may be 60 #) Yours will probably continue to rise until 130 when all of a sudden the valve moves and the pressure drops. In case this is the problem it is remedied by cleaning or replacement of the valve or a new pump. They should be cheap, but quite a bit of labor to remove oil pan and pump.

Another telling test would be to do exact same thing when engione is hot.

Their pressure bypass is screwed in the remote oil filter housing and when there is too much back pressure from the filter, it opens to bypass the filter element altogether.

The flush might have plugged it up with crap and it will just have to be unsrcewed from the remote filter housing and cleaned and reinstalled.

the problom started befor the flush i have changed the filter and oil aswell as hooked the cooler back up, still no change 130 cold at idal

1.) What temperature is it their at the moment?

2.) Have you changed the oil since the flush?

3.) Have you been always using Pennzoil 5w30?

You are talking about the filter bypass (operates when filter gets plugged) so that oil (albeit unfiltered) will still flow thru system. The pump bypass that I speak of will control pressure along with the rest of the system. A filter bypass is probably set to just a pound or two. Completey eliminating the filter by blocking it off will not raise the oil pressure very much. If it did we could all tell when our filters were plugged just like a pool filter.

Another diagnostic question may be to do 2 pressure checks when very hot, one at a high rpm and the other at a slow idle. I have seen bypass stuck in th open position as well, but not very common. It will show up as very low presure at hot idle and is similar to lots of internal clearance/hot oil/worn pump/pressure leak. One thing common to a bypass sticking is that it is kinda erratic and jumpy and can be seen on a good gage if it is responsive enough. A normal operating relief should not be detected as it's operation should be very free and smooth and should never stick.

I am wondering if the oil needs to be changed again. The oil could be really thick from debris still being removed from the system.

Also, I wonder if it is cold there.

I started mine cold this morning and instantly went to 45 # and very smothly went up to 70 # max at 3000 rpm and anything higher than that it did not climb any higher. Mine is working correctly. I'll do hot test soon.

I just did a "warm" test cuz I forgot the hot test and exact same results only the max was 60 # instead.

i did your test it stops rising at about 135 and bounces around some, i went today and bought an oil pump and will try to get it on in the next few days will let you know if it works! thanks for the help

Wow, you don't mess around. That's a big job. I did a hot test today and is as expected.

Imediately when started was 30# and when revved maxxed out at 50# and would not go higher.

Just a shot in the dark, with limited info provided, (and no offence)you seem to have limited knowledge of autos, do you have an exhaust restriction, limiting power maybe? I do not suggest driving to find this out, but you may have noticed if you had. I have seen many situations where a plugged converter will drive oil pressure well out of spec. I also agree on the Fram filter, pitch it!!!!!

That's sure a new one on me. I'd like to here how that happens? I've seen a few 60 and 100 psi exhaust sytems from plugged converters, but how does it increase the oil pressure?