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Need help w/ installation of a turbo kit! on a 98 vtec m/tran honda civic


MANNY GI
12-19-2006, 04:25 AM
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I need some advice on how to install a turbo kit properly without making my vehicle misfire or stall.So if someone can give me a step by step on a turbo kit installation i will apprieciate it.I understand i need ie turbo,intercooler,wastegate,blowoffvalve,boost controller, what else do i need to make my turbo kit work properly? also will my check engine light come on for any reason? and do i need to make any timing adjustments or bigger injectors.sorry if these questions sound dumb im a rookie but any advice will be appreciated thanks.

ARMY STRONG
MANNY GI

Schister66
12-19-2006, 08:54 AM
oh wow....i'll start with this....you need to get professionally tuned. You have to get a chipped OBD1 ECU and get a tuning program burned onto a chip with fuel and ignition maps on it....you cant just adjust the fuel pressure and the dizzy and call it a day....secondly, installing a turbo kit isn't hard. You just pull of the old parts and replace them with new ones using common sense as to where they go. I did my first setup alone and had no trouble.

I assume you bought a premade kit....what kind/brand?? If you say SSAutoShit, you're on your own...

Schister66
12-19-2006, 08:56 AM
Most of us are pretty familiar with these basics so this is intended for people who are newer to turbo.... enjoy.

DRAG Generation 3 install on 3rd gen Integra

Parts List:
• Turbonetics T04/T3 Turbocharger
• 4 into 1 Cast Iron Turbo Exhaust Manifold
• Turbonetics Deltagate Mark II Wastegate
• High Pressure/High Volume Inline Fuel Pump
• Vortech 12:1 Boost Dependent FMU
• Intake Air Filter Assembly
• 27" x 7" x 2.5" Front Mount Intercooler
• Mandrel-Bent Chrome-Plated Piping
• HKS Super Sequential Blow-Off Valve
• 2.5" Exhaust Down Pipe
• Wastegate Dump Tube
• Map Sensor Bypass Valves
• Stainless Steel Braided Oil Feed Line w/ Fittings
• Blue Silicone Couplers and Clamps
• Oil Return Line Assembly
• All Hardware and Fittings
• All Gaskets
• All Hoses and Hose Clamps

I Inline Fuel Pump and FMU Installation

1) Preliminary

a) Disconnect negative battery terminal.
b) Remove front strut bar.
c) Remove factory air box assembly.




2) Inline Fuel Pump Install

a) In-tank or Inline Fuel Pump? Drag uses an Inline fuel pump
which can provide the high pressure fuel delivery well suited for a FMU setup such as this. A high volume in-tank fuel pump such as a Walbro 255 In-tank fuel pump works better with larger injectors and a standalone. A 12:1 FMU will add 12 psi fuel pressure for every 1 psi of boost. If you had a static fuel pressure is set at 42 psi then at 7 psi the FMU will raise your fuel pressure to 126 psi! The Walbro Fuel pump was meant to provide high volume but cannot provide pressures this high.

b) Cut the rubber fuel Line about 1.5 inches away from the fuel filter. Since you have to relief the fuel pressure it is a good time to replace your fuel filter as well and install a fuel pressure gauge or fuel pressure sender unit(If you decide on an electronic gauge). YouÂ’re going to want to get the pressure recording after the inline fuel pump if installing a gauge so you can get an accurate reading.



c) Connect brass fittings as shown to the inline fuel pump.



d) Connect the Fuel Pump inlet to the rubber hose coming off the fuel filter. Connect the Outlet to the Rubber hose going to your fuel rail. Make sure to use gator clamps to secure the hoses. Remember the outlet make a 90 degree turn and is on the side with the power terminals.



e) Secure the fuel pump to the air conditioning hard lines with supplied hose clamp.

3) Electrical connections for Inline Fuel Pump

a) Run at least 14 gauge wire from the negative terminal a ground to the chassis. Make sure to ground to exposed metal; sand away a small location if necessary.
b) Run at least 14 gauge wire from the positive terminal through the firewall hole located behind the lower right hand corner of your battery.
c) Run wire under dash towards the driver side. Locate the PGMFI main relay which can be found connected to the driver side dash frame near the hood release.



d) Disconnect the brown connector from the grey relay box locate pin # 4.



e) Pin # 4 should connect to a yellow wire with a green
stripe. Tap this wire with a T-Tap or splice and solder the 14 gauge wire here to provide power to the fuel pump.

f) A better way to do this is to run a relay inline so one does not leach the current on the existing wire. This can be accomplished by purchasing a relay as shown an connecting the wires as described:



Pin 86- Pin # 4 wire on Main relay
Pin 85- chassis ground inside the car
Pin 87- Positive terminal on inline fuel pump
Pin 30- Positive on your cars battery

4) Testing the Fuel Pump

a)Reconnect negative terminal on battery
b)Turn key to position # 2 – allows use of power but does not crank the
engine over.
c)Check for any fuel leak
d)Repeat process 3 times
e)When the key is turned to position two the inline fuel pump should turn on for a second and turn off. If it continues to run then you tapped the wrong wire on the main relay.


5) FMU “boost dependent regulator” installation

a) Disconnect the negative terminal on battery.
b) Secure FMU to strut tower or rear firewall
c) Remove Fuel Return Hose from fuel pressure regulator with is located on the fuel rail.



d) Connect Fuel hose return hose to Fuel exit on the bottom of the FMU.



e) Connect a Fuel Line from the Fuel In connection on the side of the FMU to the open fitting on the Fuel pressure regulator where the fuel exit used to be.

f) Cut the Vacuum hose connected to the top of the fuel pressure regulator 2-3 inches away and plumb in a vacuum hose T and run a vacuum line to the Vacuum source on the FMU.

g) Reconnect battery, start car, check for fuel leaks. Remove ground again after completed.

II Exhaust Manifold Removal

1) Radiator removal

a) Drain the radiator fluid. Remove coolant overflow hose and upper and lower radiator hoses.



b) Disconnect all connections for both fans.



c) Remove Fans and radiator.




2) Exhaust Manifold Removal

a) Jack the car up and rest on 2 Jack stands. Remove the stock heat shield and proceed to remove 9 nuts connecting your manifold to the head. Shown here is the removal of a DC 4-1 Header.



b) Remove the bolts from the catalytic converter and the support bracket.



c) Remove the exhaust manifold and drop from below.




3) Cutting Clearance on the Block
a) Cut or File the webbing on the block approximately ½ inch to make room for the turbo compressor housing.



III Oil Return and Feed Lines

1) Oil Pan Removal

a) Drain Oil. Remove front and rear engine stiffners.



b) Remove clutch cover(to expose all oil pan nuts + bolts).



c) Remove all oil pan nuts and bolts.





2) Drilling and Welding the Oil Pan.

a) With the removed oil pan drill an appropriate size hole in the location shown. Note: the position must be high enough so the returned oil is above the oil sitting in the oil pan when car is running.



b) Completely clean the oil pan to remove any metal shavings and oil.
c) Weld the supplied L-shaped pipe included for the oil drain in the hole drilled. This can be done either with JB weld or professionally welded (highly recommended).
d) Re-install Oil Pan, new oil filter, and screw in oil pan bolt.

3) Oil feed fitting

a) Remove the stock oil pressure sender located between the alternator and the oil filter on the back of the block.
b) Place some Teflon tape on one side of the brass t-fitting and screw into the block where the OEM sender unit was located.



c) Attach the OEM oil pressure sender.
d) Connect the supplied brass AN fitting to the remaining hole using Teflon tape.
e) Attach the steel braided line included to this AN fitting (Do not use Teflon Tape).
f) Route the Braided line across the top of the transmission housing towards the front of the car.

IV Turbo

1) Turbonetics T3-T04 Turbo

a) The compressor housing on top and Turbine housing on bottom. Notice this turbo used has an older ford style 5 bolt exhaust housing. The 5 Bolt exhaust housings aren’t as efficient as Garrets newer 4 bolt exhaust housings which have a more efficient tangential flow path. Most turbo manifolds for sport compacts work better with a 5 bolt turbine housing because the housings have less of an offset and fit better in tight locations.





Here is the typical list of the Turbo specs for each engine provided by Drag:
B18: T04E/T3 54 STAGE 3 .63 AR
B16: T04B/T3 SUPER V-72 .63 AR
D16: T04B/T3 SUPER V-72 .63 AR
D15: T04B/T3 SUPER V-72 .63 AR
H22: T04B/T3 SUPER V STAGE 3 .63 AR
H23: T04B/T3 SUPER V STAGE 3 .63 AR
F22: T04B/T3 SUPER V STAGE 3 .63 AR
F23: T04B/T3 SUPER V STAGE 3 .63 AR

2) Attaching the oil feed and return fittings

a) Install the oil return line flange and connect the rubber hose as provided.







b) Install the copper oil feed fitting.



3) Clocking the Turbo and attaching fittings

a) Turn or “clock” the compressor housing so that the compressor outlet faces down. And clock the Turbine housing so the oil drain line will face downward and the oil feed line faces upward. This can be done by loosening the 6 bolts on either the compressor housing shown with the yellow arrow or the 6 bolts on the turbine side shown with the red arrow. You may need a bench vice and rubber mallet/pry bar to turn the turbine side once the bolts are loosened.



b) Tighten the bolts snugly.

4) Connect the turbine flange to the Turbo manifold



5) Attach the now constructed turbo and manifold onto the head from underneath the car and lightly tighten 2 nuts to hold the manifold in place.



6) Down pipe

a) The Drag 3 kit comes with both a 2.5” down pipe and a wastegate dump tube. For this application we elected to weld the dump tube into the down pipe for noise reduction and emission purposes. If you choose to do this make sure you weld the dump tube gradually into the down pipe at least 18 inches downstream. This welding location shown here is not perfect and could have been done better.



b) Install the down pipe to the 5 bolt exhaust housing. Note: You are going to have to drive your car to a local welder with an open down pipe and have him weld a flange to connect to your catalytic converter. Have fun scaring your neighbors and avoiding the police ;-). It’s a good time to have him install a high flow cat and install a larger diameter exhaust. Or you could be smart and spend 5 dollars on some cheap flex pipe sold in any auto parts store and use flanges to temporarily connect the down pipe to your exhaust.



c) Finish bolting the manifold to the Head.

7) Connecting Oil feed and return Lines

a) Connect the oil feed line to the turbo. Notice it is facing upwards.



b) This kit comes with shiny insulating wrap which
Should wrap around the oil return line to keep it from melting near the down pipe. Attach the Oil return line to the welded fitting in the oil pan. Make sure the line does not touch the down pipe and has a short direct route to the oil pan free from any kinks. This is extremely important because the oil return line is gravity fed.





V Wastegate

1) Turbonetics Deltagate Mark II Wastegate
a) These wastegates tend to cause boost creep(spikes and fluctuations in regulating the PSI) and I highly recommend upgrading to a Tial 35 mm or 38 mm down the road to prevent this.



b) Install the Wategate. Note: As you can see the wastegate is mounted on cylinder 1 runner alone. When looking for a good turbo manifold a better placement of the wastegate would be located where all the runners converge in the manifolds collector. These manifolds tend to cause boost creep, especially if you free up a lot of back pressure in your exhaust.



c) Connect the Brass Fittings on the wastegate.





2) Connect the Vacuum lines to the waste gate.
a) The top port(red arrow) connects to an electronic boost controller, if you don’t have one then leave it open. The side port (yellow arrow) connects to a vacuum source. You have 2 options:



b) Connect the vacuum line to the port on the compressor housing. Pro- This will allow the wastegate to more consistently control the response and ability to control boost pressure. In turn this will help deter boost spikes or quick heat soak problems with your intercooler. Con- Since there is a 1-3 PSI pressure drop through the intercooler piping and intercooler the wastegate will start to crack earlier and your torque curve will suffer because you will never reach basic boost setting on the wastegate.

c) Connect the vacuum line to the intake manifold or a line connected to the intake manifold. Pro- This will allow slightly better turbo response because it will allow the turbo to boost all it wants until the pressure reaches the intake manifold. Con – It will allow for more brief spikes in boost which will cause the intercooler to be hit with a blast of higher temperature.

d) If connecting to the Intake manifold it is best to tap the brake booster line to connect the wastegate. Make sure you tap the brake booster line(red arrow) before the check valve(yellow arrow) as shown.



e) Another solution is to use a Vacuum box connected to the brake booster so you can connect a wastegate, blowoff valve, boost gauge, Fuel pressure Regulator, Map Sensor, ect. Mcmaster Carr makes an inexpensive one and Golden Eagle sells a more expensive one.



VI Intercooler and Piping

1)Intercooler mounting



a) Remove the front bumper.



b)Align the intercooler on the Bumper support make sure it as close to the radiator as possible so the backside is flush with the back of the bumper support. Mark the holes proceed to drill.



c) Screw the Intercooler to the bumper support.



2) Intercooler Pipe Connections

a)Connect the 90 degree elbow #1 to the Compressor
Exit using silicon hose connectors and clamps. Use a silicone based lubricant or some soap to lubricate the inside of rubber couplers if needed to aid in squeezing onto the intercooler pipe. A petroleum based lubricant could dry and crack the rubber later on.
b) Connect the driver side 180 degree bend #2 to pipe #1 and intercooler. A hole must be cut in the driver side splash guard to feed the intercooler pipe through.



c) Connect the passenger side 180 degree bend # 3 to the exit of the intercooler.



d) Connect a 90 degree rubber coupling to pipe # 3 to upper charge pipe # 4.



e) Connect the Upper Charge Pipe # 4 to the throttle body.



f) Reinstall the bumper and splash guards.

g) Newer versions of this kit should come with a 2 more pipes. Connect the Turbo inlet adapter pipe to the turbo inlet and the Intake pipe to the adapter pipe using silicone hose. Attach the provided K+N Filter to the end of the intake pipe.



VII Blow off Valve

1) The blow off valve is attached to the upper charge pipe with a snap ring tool provided to install the HKS Sequential blow off valve.



a) Use the supplied vacuum hose to connect the
Blow off valve with a vacuum source after the throttle
body. Either the Intake Manifold, Brake Booster line,
or a Vacuum box are all fine. If the Blow off valve fails to open or you hear compressor surge then it is possible that the vacuum source isnÂ’t strong enough to open the blow off valve. Try using a vacuum source which isnÂ’t taped with too many other connections.



b) You can see from the above picture there is an adjustment screw so you can adjust the valve. If you are loosing boost under hard acceleration then tighten it because it is leaking. You can loosen it if the valve is too tight and is causing compressor surge.



c) Install the supplied little filter inline between the Blow off valve and vacuum source. This will keep contaminants from entering the blow off valve.



VIII Check Valves

1)Check valves are used to trick the factory ecu into not seeing any boost pressure. Honda never intended you to turbo your Integra and if the MAP sensor detects any boost it will throw a CEL code. A Map bypass uses check valves(one way valves) to bleed off boost before it reaches the stock map sensor. Check valves allow for boost pressure to be released when your intake manifold is pressurized and still keep any contaminants from being inhaled when your intake manifold is out of boost and is in vacuum like normal.

2) Map Sensor

a) Remove the factory map sensor which is located on top of the throttle body by removing 2 screws.



b) Replace OEM MAP Sensor with 90 degree fitting from
included check valve assembly. Connect OEM Map Sensor to other end of assembly and secure harness down with zip ties.



c) Here is the Basic Layout of a Check Valve. Its simply vacuum line teeÂ’d with check valves inline. If you were to build a MAP bypass yourself you can purchase check valves(or one way valves) from NAPA - Echlin part # 2-970.



d) Another option to use instead of check valves is a product called “Missing Link” It can be purchased for approximately 70 dollars and will make clean up your engine bay and simplify your setup. A Missing Link check valve has a built in check valve and sits between the MAP sensor and throttle body. They need to be cleaned every so often because they sometimes get dirty and clog.


IX Preparing to Start the engine

1) Connect the negative ground wire.

2) Fill car with coolant and oil.

3) Make sure gas tank is at least filled with 92 octane.

4) Gap Spark Plugs to .030- NGK part # BCPR7ES-11 are preferred.

5) Remove the coil wire or Pgmfi fuse to prevent spark when priming the turbo.

6) Place oil feed line in a bucket (end which is normally connected to turbo) while other end remains connected to the engine. Crank the engine 10 times with 10 second pauses in between each attempt to fill about a quart of oil in the bucket. Now that the Oil feed line has been purged connect it to the turbo. Once connected crank the engine over 5 times to prime the turbo.

7) Reconnect coil wire or fuse.

8) Recheck all vacuum, fuel, coolant, wire connections.

X Testing

1) Start car and let Idle.

2) Let Car Idle till warmed up to normal operating temperature.

3) Recheck for any leaking fluids and vacuum leaks.

4) Set ignition timing to factory and make sure no aftermarket chips which advance the timing are used.

5) Slowly drive the car with part throttle and pay close attention to any unusual sounds besides the fuel pump buzz and the blow off valve during shifting.

6) Shift into third and slowly rev up to redline listening carefully for any pinging or detonation. Immediately pull over if heard and check the Fuel system is functioning properly and the ignition timing is correct. If pinging persists then use colder spark plugs(# BCPR7ES-11) or retard the timing up to 5 degrees. If all is fine then shift into 4th gear and repeat.

7) If check engine light comes on then bypass service connector with paper clip and check engine code in factory service manual to troubleshoot.

8) If check engine light comes on when in boost only then check Map sensor bypass.

9) If engine misfires at high RPM check spark plug gaps.

10) If your car can’t build any boost pressure then check for leaks in the Intercooler piping, Intake manifold, exhaust leaks on wastegate, turbo manifold, and downpipe.

11) Never exceed 10 psi boost pressure. If this occurs check vacuum lines on wastegate.

12) Before turning off ignition let car idle for 20 seconds.

Schister66
12-19-2006, 08:58 AM
quick and easy....it may not be your setup, but they're all the same......have fun

MANNY GI
12-19-2006, 01:50 PM
Thanks on that info its helping me alot .I haven't purchased any turbo kit yet im still trying to do all my homework on the basics.Any advice on a good but not that expensive turbo kit ? also is it nessessary to install any new fuel injectors or inline fuel pump? Do you currently have a missing link check valve for your map sensor? how do i go about getting a chip for my car and is it nessesary!

army strong
manny gi

Schister66
12-19-2006, 07:36 PM
using a missing link is not something that is very common on turbo setups anymore......most people tend to use a GM3bar map sensor instead....

Schister66
12-20-2006, 05:31 PM
now with pictures!!

http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1263795

MANNY GI
12-21-2006, 09:23 AM
Thanks for the info the pics on that blog helps out alot espessially since this is my first turbo project now i believe i understand how it is all sopposed to be assembled but my questions are, do i need bigger injectors in my 98 vtec 1.6l honda civic if so do i need to add a ressistor box? also i'm not understanding the obd1 to obd2 installation? is it nessessary and what do i have obd1 or obd2? and finnally were do i go to purchase a chipped obd1 ecu if i even need it at all? you been pretty helpful so far i appreciate it i just want to make sure i understand what im getting into before i get started im currently in IRAQ and i will be getting back shortly so i want to order everything i need aswell as learn everything before i get back so thanks again!

ARMY STRONG
MANNY GI

MANNY GI
12-21-2006, 01:24 PM
question does any know if Apexi POWER FC stand alone ecu work good with any turbo kit to profesionally tune my set up? does this unit replace the need for a programmable chipped ecu?

MANNY GI
12-21-2006, 01:25 PM
http://www.thor-racing.co.uk/Apexi_PowerFC_and_Command-APX_PFC_01.asp this is where i found the stand alone unit!

ARMY STRONG
MANNY GI

CivicSpoon
12-21-2006, 02:36 PM
You should find a reputable place near you that has experience with tuning hondas, and go with whatever ems they suggest.

Schister66
12-22-2006, 08:54 AM
^i agree....

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