I've always wanted to ask about this -

- how do you guys paint a part that has been taken off the tree? More specificlly, how do you hold a part for painting where there's no where to grab hold of??

If I take a part off the tree for test fitting, then need to prime and paint it, a problem arise, because there's no where to hold/ grab on the part while painting, for parts that has surfaces that's invisible I tend to bluetack that side (that doesn't need to be painted).

But for certain parts that require paints on all it's surface, like a rear wing of an F1 car, what do I do?

- Blue tack 1 side, and paint the others first, wait until it dry, then bluetack the painted side, finish painting the surface that wan't painted the first time around?

This problem only just happened because I used to paint all the parts while they are still on the tree, so i always have something to hold onto. then when the paint is dry, I take off the parts and try to touch up the bit that was attached to the tree - if it's visible.

But now I started test fitting, sanding and filling using putty, I had to cut them off first. DOH.

Carefully and artfully. Not to be flippant, but I expect you know by now there is no secret to doing it. Each part will be different, and there will be many creative appoaches you will have to resort to. There certainly is not one catch all answer or technique.

Personally I've almost never painted parts on sprues before removing them- for exactly the reason you mentioned. A painted part that has to be altered to fit is pretty useless. For scraping off mold lines, trial fitting, and modifying/detailing, I've always removed stuff from sprues before doing anything else.

Personally I've almost never painted parts on sprues before removing them- for exactly the reason you mentioned. A painted part that has to be altered to fit is pretty useless. For scraping off mold lines, trial fitting, and modifying/detailing, I've always removed stuff from sprues before doing anything else.

Same here.

I usually tack parts like wings and stuff like that to a piece of sprue with a dot of CA. then paint it, and when I go to glue the part to the model, the CA will chip off quite easily.

Even if there isn't any place for a part to grab, there has to be a joining surface where you glue the part to another, and that surface will become invisible, so I drill a hole and insert a metal rod or a tooth-pick. I usually use 0.8 mm drill bit and a tooth-pick, but if the part is tiny, I use 0.3 or 0.5 mm rod, instead.

I do keep it on the sprue, in some cases, if it's a small enough part that touching it up with a brush after cutting it off won't look bad.

If I'm painting it off the sprue, and it's a fairly big part, but still small enough to brush apint, I use one of my little plastic clamps to hold one end of the part, and paint the other end. Then when it's dry, I flip it over and paint the other end.

All the other parts, that either require spraying, or can't be held by a clamp, I use body tape. I fold the tape in on itself so both sides are sticky, stick it to the painting surface, then stick the parts to the tape. I spray it, let it dry, then flip the parts over (it's body tape so it won't hurt dried paint) and then paint the other side.

This doesn't go for any large body parts of course.

Thanks for all your insightful tips.

All the other parts, that either require spraying, or can't be held by a clamp, I use body tape. I fold the tape in on itself so both sides are sticky, stick it to the painting surface, then stick the parts to the tape. I spray it, let it dry, then flip the parts over (it's body tape so it won't hurt dried paint) and then paint the other side.

Just curious, what is the 'body tape' you use? Is it masking tape?
Thanks,
Steve

Just curious, what is the 'body tape' you use? Is it masking tape?
Thanks,
Steve

Literally "body tape" ... if you check out my '56 Chevy WIP that I just posted in the Musclecar section you'll see it. The green stuff body men use.

I prefer Tamiya's tape for really fine masking when I need a PERFECT separation line, but it's expensive as well. The body tape works well for most other situations.

Even if there isn't any place for a part to grab, there has to be a joining surface where you glue the part to another, and that surface will become invisible, so I drill a hole and insert a metal rod or a tooth-pick. I usually use 0.8 mm drill bit and a tooth-pick, but if the part is tiny, I use 0.3 or 0.5 mm rod, instead.
This is what I do also. The part is very easy to handle and view under lights this way. I usually build AMT kits and I have yet to see a part on the sprue that doesnt require clean up so I never paint parts whilst still on the sprue. Some parts lend themselves to the tape method and I go thru alot of that green body tape.

I've discovered an amazing material for holding small parts for paint. What I've started using is molding tape - it's a foam tape (actually rather thick) that is incredibly adhesive on both sides. It's used to hold molding on cars, like that black plastic trim on the side of the car that we hate to paint in 1:24. It's sticky enough to securely hold smaller parts, but easy to remove after the paint is dry. For spoilers, I've developed a painting stand:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v417/willimo/Spoilerclearingjig.jpg

I've discovered an amazing material for holding small parts for paint. What I've started using is molding tape - it's a foam tape (actually rather thick) that is incredibly adhesive on both sides. It's used to hold molding on cars, like that black plastic trim on the side of the car that we hate to paint in 1:24. It's sticky enough to securely hold smaller parts, but easy to remove after the paint is dry. For spoilers, I've developed a painting stand:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v417/willimo/Spoilerclearingjig.jpg


Ah yes the wacky world of Willimo! I just drill and use a skewer but to each his own! :p