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Installed FMIC GOT PROBLEM


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rock0134
11-29-2006, 05:05 PM
I finished mounting the front mount intercooler and running the piping and took it for a test drive with the bumper still off and when it gets to high RPM's and near full boost the car sputters pretty bad. The other thing that is wrong is that when im just normal driving feather footing it, there is a whistle immediately after letting off of the gas every time. It is really high pitched like the bell when you walk into subway. Is there most likely a boost leak somewhere or is it something else?? any suggestions are appreciated....

wanaplay134
11-29-2006, 05:33 PM
sounds like something is loose or leaking i would go back over every clamp and connection

2of9
11-29-2006, 05:36 PM
my guess of the sputter is maybe a electronic tuning issue? i dont know thats my guess and the whistle noise can be the BOV...check it when its at idle. rev it a couple times to see where that high pitch whistle noise is coming from.

rock0134
11-29-2006, 06:36 PM
nothing can EVER go right the first time thats the law... i made gaskets for the bov and the throttle body out of rubber gasket maker but im pretty sure i had it on there perfect adn tight as hell....

defiancy
11-29-2006, 09:13 PM
Check the piping to be sure there are no leaks.

What fuel mods do you have?

And the noise when you let off, if I had to guess would be your bov ;)
If it's making a noise when you are letting off the gas, sounds like it's working right.

Mikelb
11-29-2006, 09:13 PM
nothing can EVER go right the first time thats the law... i made gaskets for the bov and the throttle body out of rubber gasket maker but im pretty sure i had it on there perfect adn tight as hell....

Ok, I'm almost gonna gaurantee that it's a boost leak... You will probably also notice black smoke coming out the exhaust when the car sputters (the engine is accounting for more air than it's taking in[due to a leak] and then it's giving the car too much gas [causes car to sputter])

Now, that gasket maker won't hold for shit on the throttle body... The previous owner did the same thing to mine, and I had some huge boost leaks outta my TB... I've replaced them and the car should run much better...

^I'm suggesting replacing that... also, check all the other connections, that's most likely where it'll lie...

TalonEclipseMixGsx
11-29-2006, 11:52 PM
When i put my intake on it made a whistling noise when making full boost but it was a boost leak on one of the rubber couplers. Not sure why it would make the noise when u let of the gas maybe a leak on the bov. When i did my boost leak test i found one on the throttle body between my new UICP and TB, and also on my BOV with a new gasket. THrew some RTV on both sides of each gaskets and no boost leaks.

Blackcrow64
11-30-2006, 03:23 AM
I vote boost leak... Give it a leak test and find out where its coming from.

Mikelb
11-30-2006, 07:26 AM
When i put my intake on it made a whistling noise when making full boost but it was a boost leak on one of the rubber couplers. Not sure why it would make the noise when u let of the gas maybe a leak on the bov. When i did my boost leak test i found one on the throttle body between my new UICP and TB, and also on my BOV with a new gasket. THrew some RTV on both sides of each gaskets and no boost leaks.

Maybe with a gasket, the RTV will work; but without gaskets, my car had a shitload of leaks

rock0134
11-30-2006, 09:08 AM
its not a bov sound when i let off its a longer faint high pitch whistle..

And what do you suggest to make the gasket with on the throttle body

Mikelb
11-30-2006, 09:11 AM
its not a bov sound when i let off its a longer faint high pitch whistle..

And what do you suggest to make the gasket with on the throttle body

Go to SBR, under...nm, here's the link...
(TB gasket is at the bottom of the page)
http://www.slowboyracing.com/shop.php?sid=PHPSESSID=29521535c7de5e5bbabe74d9532 fb806&cat=1063&PHPSESSID=29521535c7de5e5bbabe74d9532fb806

Turbodog97
11-30-2006, 01:40 PM
Boost leak!

rock0134
11-30-2006, 03:10 PM
shouldnt making your own gaskets work just fine instead of buying them for 10 bucks or more? How thick does the throttle body gasket have to be?

Mikelb
11-30-2006, 03:49 PM
My experience was otherwise... maybe it'll work for some... but from what is happening to your car, I would think otherwise...

Check for other leaks first, if you don't find any... spend $10...

rock0134
11-30-2006, 06:55 PM
well i decided to rip all the piping apart and i got the gasket maker goop from NAPA and make the throttle body gasket and the bov gasket. I dropped one of the four corner nuts on the throttle body down and it got stuck somehwere inside the engine bay so i need to get another one of those.... Does anyone have any opinions on that gasket making goop?

Also is connecting pipes with couplers and clamping like a hard thing to do or once its clamped down tight is it good?

Mikelb
12-01-2006, 08:05 AM
I suggest getting some gasket material (cutting to fit), and using some RTV or something like that...
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductList.aspx?CategoryCode=3540&SearchFor=Gasket%20Material
I'm not sure what material you'll need, but I'll be spending some time in Advance within the next couple of days, so I'll try and get you an answer

wanaplay134
12-01-2006, 11:21 AM
yea i would get a roll of fel pro gasket material its like 4 bucks for a good amount of it make your own and use rtv on it that should close it up pretty good. you can get that at auto zone, pep boys wherever

scizzle
12-01-2006, 02:20 PM
GOOP gasket maker or whatever that is, thats a bad idea. When have we ever wanted GOOP in our motors? its messy and just doent work well. RTV and similar sealants are made to be used as the gasket, not with the gasket. The rubber gsket you were talkin about that you " tightened the hell out of..." you probably crushed it. Gaskets are made to be smaxhed down a certain amount to seal. this is called 'crush'. when you overtorque a bolt you ruin the gasket by smashing it. follow tourque specs and stick to the original gasket materials. dont use the liquid stuff unless specificalled called for from the manufacturer. boost leak. the high pitch whistle noise i think is coming from the exhaust side. without your downpipe connected, if your driving every time you take a load off the turbo it will sppool down rather quickly. this causes the whistle noise. check for an exhaust leak.

rock0134
12-02-2006, 05:50 PM
I used RTV on the intake manifold and the bov and then went over all the piping connections and it is still sputtering at high boost... What does the little hose going from the bov to the intake manifold do just wondering... any suggestions on any other possible problems would be sweet

I was just thinking that since its sputtering and jerking at around full boost (12psi) could that be due to my 1g bov not being strong enough and opening and closing possibly????

rock0134
12-02-2006, 06:02 PM
I was just thinking of this... could my 1g bov possibly be leaking since it starts to sputter and jerk at around full boost? (12psi) is it not strong enough?

Mikelb
12-02-2006, 10:19 PM
I was just thinking of this... could my 1g bov possibly be leaking since it starts to sputter and jerk at around full boost? (12psi) is it not strong enough?

I seriously doubt that. Unless the BOV is faulty... I'm almost certain it's a boost leak. The 1G BOV's are usually good til around 20psi (I'm boosting 17 on mine now, no problem)

scizzle
12-02-2006, 10:56 PM
Hey, once again mr. rtv. relax with that stuff for real. ask any good tech and they will tell you the same thing i did. its gonna end up doin more damage than good. your blow off valve isn't gonna cause that sputtering. the boost leak that was mentioned definately sounds like a more realistic problem.And you say at high rpm? how high are we talkin?

rock0134
12-03-2006, 11:22 AM
like about full boost and 5-6k rpm

eclipsed at 3am
12-03-2006, 09:43 PM
i think you got crankwalk

Mikelb
12-04-2006, 07:17 AM
boost leak FTW... the RTV will blow out at the higher rpms (moving more CFM@ higher RPM)

rock0134
12-04-2006, 09:08 AM
how would crank walk come about after installing a front mount?

Black99GST
12-04-2006, 03:21 PM
how would crank walk come about after installing a front mount?
easy test... just turn left... are all the vac lines re-connected?? double+tripple check

rock0134
12-04-2006, 09:26 PM
The only thing that i can think of the i havent checked 5 times over is the vac line going from the top of hte bov to the intake manifold.... the one that i got with the fmic kit had a really small inner hold for the air to go through compared to the stock one. Kinda like o compared to O... could that do anything?

Black99GST
12-04-2006, 09:45 PM
The only thing that i can think of the i havent checked 5 times over is the vac line going from the top of hte bov to the intake manifold.... the one that i got with the fmic kit had a really small inner hold for the air to go through compared to the stock one. Kinda like o compared to O... could that do anything?
not for what your problem is, if anything it would mess with vac, not boost... check all the cupplers, sounds like you have a hair line cut in one that only leaks where their is enough pressure to expand the cupplers (hard to explane, but thats what happened to me and took me FOREVER to find!) i would cover all the cupplers with soapy water from turbo to throttle body. then fill the pipes with air (basic boost leak test) but pay special attention to the cupplers between the pipes (not the ends of the cupplers more like the middle) give that a shot.

rock0134
12-04-2006, 10:28 PM
How can i do a boost leak test? When the air is in the system does it just stay at the psi inflated to unless there is leak?

I saw a thing online somewhere of getting the end cap of a pvc pipe and clamping it into a coupler with a valve stem drilled into it which you put on the turbo inlet which seems like it would work?

TalonEclipseMixGsx
12-04-2006, 11:11 PM
Thats what i made my boost leak tester out of and hooked up a air compressor to it, found 2 boost leaks out of two new gaskets that i just replaced. Threw RTV on them and it was fixed. Not sayin it will work in all situations but it did in my case.

Mikelb
12-05-2006, 07:35 AM
not for what your problem is, if anything it would mess with vac, not boost... check all the cupplers, sounds like you have a hair line cut in one that only leaks where their is enough pressure to expand the cupplers (hard to explane, but thats what happened to me and took me FOREVER to find!) i would cover all the cupplers with soapy water from turbo to throttle body. then fill the pipes with air (basic boost leak test) but pay special attention to the cupplers between the pipes (not the ends of the cupplers more like the middle) give that a shot.

+1 for a small hole/cut... most of them you won't see unless you could look at the car under full boost... mine I was fortunate enough for it to be on the driver's side. I could hear the leak. I replaced all the hoses with piping, and used belted hose (super strong, couple of friends running Evos and STis with it)to replace the couplers... It wasn't until I had the hose off the car that I saw the actual hole... and I had to stretch the hose, by hand, to see it in the first place...

rock0134
12-05-2006, 03:46 PM
If i take the couplers off and it by chance has a tiny slit, will it be visible and able to find when you bend it?

gthompson97
12-06-2006, 01:32 AM
Vfaq.com has an article on making your own boost leak tester. It's listed under Intake (I believe) and is called an Intake Leak Tester, IIRC.

rock0134
12-06-2006, 03:04 PM
Has anyone ever made thier own boost leak tester, how well do they work?

eclipsed at 3am
12-06-2006, 04:33 PM
ive made my own, and i immediately found a leak in the j-pipe gasket. its a good thing to build, my problem is, im using a bike pump to pressurize the system.. the guy on that link said he uses an air compressor from walmart, that would probably be the best way to test. only because

1.) less work
2.) veeeerrrrry quiet
3.) puts in more pressure faster
4.) hands free

i could only get the pressure up to 1psi, and as soon as i stopped pumping, it went right back down to 0. i think i might hear a leak in the UICP, but i cant stop to listen fast enough. so grab a compressor. over-all, the tester is awesome and will find any problems, just as long as you have the right source of air-pressurization.

Black99GST
12-06-2006, 04:38 PM
If i take the couplers off and it by chance has a tiny slit, will it be visible and able to find when you bend it?
yes, if you fumble it around in your hands for a while, you'll probably be able to see it, also, i can almost guarantee you have more then one leaking. i would pull all the pipes appart, toss the cupplers, file (sand w/ 60 grit) the edges of the pipes, then replace the pipes with new belted cupplers (fiberglass re-enforced cupplers) that should solve all your boost problems for a while! :2cents:

Edit: Obviously once you finish filing the pipes, make sure their are no metal shavings inside or outside the pipe, air compressors work great for this. if you dont have one, you can also ball up 1-2 shop wrags and push them through the pipes with a screwdrive or bent up wire coat hanger... hope that helps!

rock0134
12-07-2006, 10:53 PM
So i went and got an end cap for a pvc pipe to fit inside the coupler from my intake to turbo. I got a rubber valve stem and drilled a hole and put it together to finish the boost leak tester. I put it on and used an air compressor which said that it was putting 20 pounds in... when i shut it off to listen for a leak i found a pretty big one at a coupler on the passenger side. I took all the pipes off on that side and put them on one by one to make sure they all lined up perfect and then clamped them down really good. After that i filled the system up with air again and listened for leaks. NO LEAKING SOUNDS ANYWHERE!!! I really need to take it for a drive to make sure there really isnt anymore leaks but there is shit snow and salt completely dominating the roads around here so itll have to sit in the garage until i get the nuts to get it dirty and th streets are somewhat dry. Im gonna start cuting the bumper core and cover this weekend and then start thinking about what shock/spring combo with a camber kit that im gonnna get.

If anyone is thinking they have a boost leak, i would highly reccomend making your own leak tester with the pvc cap and valve stem... it took 97 cents total and took a minute at the most to drill the hole for the valve stem.

eclipsed at 3am
12-07-2006, 10:59 PM
congrats bro, good job. black99 gst had a good point, it wouldnt be a bad idea to just replace all the couplers while you're messing with it.

Black99GST
12-07-2006, 11:01 PM
YOU GO MAN! Bet you got that BITCH! i would have done it up to 25-30 psi that way if it spikes or you let off the gas, they wont blow... but glad you found "the problem" DRIVE THAT BAD BOY!!!

rock0134
12-07-2006, 11:07 PM
I used kind of an older compresser that doesnt grab the nipple all that well but it stopped at like 22 psi at the most if i held it tight and had no problems... Does that mean that theres 22 pounds of pressure closed in there? And if you dont let it out will it just stay pressurized in the system?

Black99GST
12-07-2006, 11:10 PM
I used kind of an older compresser that doesnt grab the nipple all that well but it stopped at like 22 psi at the most if i held it tight and had no problems... Does that mean that theres 22 pounds of pressure closed in there? And if you dont let it out will it just stay pressurized in the system?
22 psi in the pipes and intercooler, and it may stay in their for a while, just dont know about over night... becasue temperatur changes... pressure will drop

rock0134
12-07-2006, 11:19 PM
ahh i see, thanks a ton for your help man couldnt have done it without you!

jonnyboy9012
12-08-2006, 12:05 AM
I just had a quick question. If you hook the pressure tester to the intake to the turbocharger... when you pressurize the system isnt it going to leak past the throttlebody butterfly and into the cylinders? (providing any intake valves are open) and blow past the rings. Ive never used one myself but i think it would leak past the rings and into the crankcase. So another question... would it be a good indicator if your rings are worn-out?... that is if you pressurize the system and find no leaks in the pipes but you are losing pressure at a pretty good rate, it might indicate your rings are worn the hell out. Just some questions i have, you never can learn enough.

gthompson97
12-08-2006, 12:18 AM
There should be NO air getting past the TB butterfly, otherwise you have a problem. A good indication of worn rings is to do a compression test, or a leakdown test will be even better.

Mikelb
12-08-2006, 08:38 AM
congrats... glad you got the problem figured out...

Black99GST
12-08-2006, 03:29 PM
:1: let us know how it Runs!! :thumbsup:

rock0134
12-08-2006, 05:05 PM
i did the boost leak again like you said and put it to around 25 psi and there were no leaks from the piping but a loud hiss of air coming from the intake manifold. The throttle body gasket is good but this was from the right more side of the intake manifold any idea what that is?

TalonEclipseMixGsx
12-08-2006, 06:44 PM
Try and get a spray bottle with soapy water to spray on it. It should bubble up and let u know exactly where its coming from

Black99GST
12-08-2006, 10:30 PM
:1: sounds like you need some new gaskets to... but if it doenst leak under 25psi, i wouldnt worry about ti to much, just keep in mind when you turn up the boost, their is going to be a potential problem their. :2cents: Take it for a drive yet!?!?!;)

rock0134
12-09-2006, 12:03 PM
Hopefully this afternoon ill be able to take it out, its sunny and warm today and hasnt snowed anymore in like 4 days so... but is a leak in the intake manifold common?

Black99GST
12-09-2006, 12:45 PM
not really... i would suggest fixing it if its bothering you! heres what i would do, spray the manifold with soapy (that looks like its spelled wrong LOL) water, then re-pressureize (lol more spelling) the system to around the amount of boost you are running from the 16g. (perferably 1-2 psi more) if it leaks it will blow bubbles in the soapy water, and i would fix the problem right away! if it doesnt blow ant bubbles, i wouldnt worry about it to much. :2cents:

rock0134
12-09-2006, 01:11 PM
Alright ill definately try that today before i take it for a drive.. The only thing is when i pressurize the system, on the air compressor it says like 20 to 25 psi or whatever i put it at but in te car, the boost gauge goes to a max of like 3 psi? Shouldnt it go up too or does the car need to be on for it to work

Black99GST
12-09-2006, 02:23 PM
Alright ill definately try that today before i take it for a drive.. The only thing is when i pressurize the system, on the air compressor it says like 20 to 25 psi or whatever i put it at but in te car, the boost gauge goes to a max of like 3 psi? Shouldnt it go up too or does the car need to be on for it to work
is your boost gauge mechanical? remember boost gauge reads pressure in your Intake Manifold, not the intercooler piping. When doing a boost leak test, little or NO pressure should be getting past your T.B. so i would say no, the boost gauge DEFINATLY should not show anymore the 3-5 psi MAX during a pressure test if it is infact a mechanical Gauge. :2cents:

rock0134
12-09-2006, 02:52 PM
i geuss it isnt mechanical, i had it up to about 15 psi on the boost gauge and then took the air off. There was still a hiss from the intake manifold at around down to 10 psi and it took about a minute for the 15 psi ot go down to 0 psi... should the pressure stay in there longer than that?

Black99GST
12-09-2006, 03:05 PM
i geuss it isnt mechanical, i had it up to about 15 psi on the boost gauge and then took the air off. There was still a hiss from the intake manifold at around down to 10 psi and it took about a minute for the 15 psi ot go down to 0 psi... should the pressure stay in there longer than that?
that sounds about right to me :screwy: i would say take it for a spin, and listen to how it runs, pay attention to the rear view and look for black smoke... but my money says your FINE! :popcorn:

rock0134
12-10-2006, 12:23 PM
well i took it for a drive and its still sputtering and jerking near full boost. I dont know what to do the pipes are all good, the only thing i can think of is that leak from somewhere by the intake manifold when i did the boost leak test... but i didnt touch anything there and before that it was fine. so i dont know what to do

TalonEclipseMixGsx
12-10-2006, 05:37 PM
Its not boost creepin up to 17psi and hittin fuel cut is it? I hear those 16g's are good at that. My car does that now on a cold night. Drive it during the day its fine, night time its alot quicker but it creeps alot quicker too and 17 is the magic number for me and im done accelerating

eclipsed at 3am
12-10-2006, 09:21 PM
intake manifolds are very likely to get leaks in them. i just heard of 4 of them the other night where they are having manifold leaks. of course, 2 of those were aftermarket manifolds and the other 2 were just putting everything back togehter and the gasket was bad. it wouldnt hurt to check that if you could. what about your mas? is it hacked or stock?

rock0134
12-10-2006, 10:11 PM
First gear is basically fine because the turbo doesnt spool up to full boost before its time to shift, then at teh end of second it starts sputtering and it was creeping up to like 14 psi which is higher than normal... Its wierd tho because when I first finished all the piping i went through third full out and then blew a pipe off without sputtering or jerking at all... than when i redid the piping and make them all tight it started acting up, then when i did the boost leak test i found one leak in the piping and fixed that and then can hear another towards the right side of the intake manifold ahhhh i just am frustrated right now:shakehead

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