flushing heater core

Do i just take them off and use a water hose running water through one side until it comes out the other?

And do i need to replace coolant? What kind do i need to get(remind you I'm on a limited budget)

Also, read somewhere about the rad. hoses warming up my top hose is hot and the bottom one is cool what ever that means.

What exactly is the problem?
Coolant needs to be flushed and changed every 3 years especially Dex cool and a new thermostat and Stant cap installed. If heater core gurggles or have no heat that usually requires additional flush with hose thru the heater hoses.

I let it run about 15 min. and the heater still blowing cold. Got in it and drove about 10 min. or so and it started blowing hot when its working right it gets real hot and while this is blowing cold my gauge is reading around 220 or so but when it starts blowing hot it falls back down to 185-190. Thermostat sticking?

Do i just take them off and use a water hose running water through one side until it comes out the other?

And do i need to replace coolant? What kind do i need to get(remind you I'm on a limited budget)

Also, read somewhere about the rad. hoses warming up my top hose is hot and the bottom one is cool what ever that means.

As said.
Describe the problem as good as you can and make sure it really need flushed first.
Is the system full of coolant and the engine temp running at normal tempt or overheating or under heating?
Is the heater controls working right?
Tips on getting a good answer to your questions.
People trying to answer your question do not have a crystal ball.
So give them all of the info you have like year make and model and engine and transmission and mileage.
Also cars engine and transmission service history or any recent repairs or problems.
Also a description of your problem and what it is doing or not doing.
If you have codes give up the code no.
And remember a code does not say replace the part but only points to the problem that you have to check out.
So to better help you give up all of the info you have on it.

MT

As posted in the last post i described what was going on. no the motor is not overheating, i have no codes,i guess the controls are working properly,never have had a problem with it. Its a 98 with 88,000 miles, vortec v6 motor,

As posted in the last post i described what was going on. no the motor is not overheating, i have no codes,i guess the controls are working properly,never have had a problem with it. Its a 98 with 88,000 miles, vortec v6 motor,


The more details you can give us the better we can help you. :grinno:
It is hard for us to see it over this boob tube and key board.:grinyes: :lol:
So bear with us.:rofl:
First thing is the system full of coolant?
When it is cooled down.
Get that rad cap off and look in there.
Next is it automatic heater or manual heater controls.
In your first post you said it was going to 220 and no heat and when it dropped back to 195 it worked.
That does not sound good.
Does it do this real fast or just when you drive it?
Start with a good thermostat and rad full of coolant and see what it does.
Work them heater controls and make sure it is switching from ac to heater and defrost and the tempt goes from hot to cold.
When the engine is at 195 feel the inlet and outlet heater hoses and let us know how they feel.
Post back how it goes.

Ok i checked the coolant and it was about 1/2 gal. low and none in the overflow will drive it home from work today and see what happens. The rad. is top offed know. And as far as the gauge moving around once i got up to about 40-60 mph. down the highway for a 20-30 min. drive and everything goes back to normal go figure:banghead: The controls were in manual and auto.

Ok i checked the coolant and it was about 1/2 gal. low and none in the overflow will drive it home from work today and see what happens. The rad. is top offed know. And as far as the gauge moving around once i got up to about 40-60 mph. down the highway for a 20-30 min. drive and everything goes back to normal go figure:banghead: The controls were in manual and auto.
Thanks for posting back and letting us know how it is going.
We hope that fixes the heater problem but you need to watch that coolant level.
If it keeps going down you need to check for the leak.
Good luck
MT

AS MT said watch the coolant level as the lower intake maybe leaking. If the res was empty and 1/2 gal low you do need to flush the system and replace the Dex cool cause air in the system will cause it to gel up and restrict flow. Replace the thermostat if original now with a Stant 195 and a new cap. All 4.3s need the res full to the HOT line when Cold to ensure no air and the factory cap was junk and stuck not allowing the res fluid to flow as the radiator coolant expands and then contracts.