2001 ford windstar

Hi guys, I just bought a used 2001 ford windstar as is condition, big mistake, turns out bunch of problems which existed but was told were negligible, first discovered the gas tank was leaking when i went for oil change, it had already two patches on it and one of them was leaking whats your suggestion?
second the brake light is on, was told by the one who sold it was a small part problem on the emergency parking brake. I doubt.

the power door locks dont work on the passenger side and drivers side when i click the lock unlock button

the horn does not blows, i dont know if this is a fuse or what, the alarm keys only blink, no noise
i later checked the carfax and found it had two minor accidents on it, I am stuck now, I dont know if air bags are in it or not, how do i check, no sign or light on the dash board, considering all the problems with the windstar i feel angry. please help me guys, the van runs smooth though, only problem is when i stop while driving, it stops even when my foot is not on the brake, i have to gas the pedal to move, any suggestions,

foremost, i wanna fix the gas tank, any cheap way to tackle this, mechanic says he will charge 200 bucks.

appreciate any responses.

Autozone may have a new replacement tank. A new tank would be preferred to any repair.

The tank is plastic and easy to lift once empty. Removing/installing the tank is not that difficult if you can create enough clearance under the van for working. You need the van jacked up over a foot, or either use some high ramps.

Lots of opportunity to get hurt ... be careful!!!

As far as your door lock problems if its not a fuse we got you covered on that as well with a universal door lock replacement less than 20.00 bucks for 2 doors if needed. beter than the exspensive ford replacement.. ..just let me know when you are ready to fix it. I will pull the post up..As far as your gas tank could it be possible that it may have been wrecked. Or ran over something??

I also start wondering about the repaired gas tank.
It is a tough plastic material, which does not rust.
So I wonder how the hole(s) got there?.....
I would replace, not repair......especially after reading that it is not a real difficult repair.

The leaking gas tank makes me wonder what else under there has been hit, etc.
It might be worth having a "4 wheel alignment" from a trusted shop, to verify that the wheels are tracking true.......front and rear.
And a visual inspection from under there to look for any cables, etc that might have been pulled.
I am thinking, depending on the location of the patches on the tank, that the vehicle might have traveled off road during one of the accidents.

I would also check to make sure any recalls that come up for your vehicle have been taken care of.
Your local dealership will be able to tell you of any recalls for your vehicle from the VIN.
Recalls are taken care of for free.....and it is a real good idea to check into for any used vehicle that you buy, even from a dealer.

Please note that TSB's (Technical Service Bulletins) are different from recalls.
TSB's are notes to auto technicians on how to address various problems that may come up.
They are super useful information in getting to the root cause of a problem, and how to perform specific repairs to correct problems, and to prevent new problems.

The other problems, you will have to address 1 at a time.
I suspect that several problems will come down to a single cause.
You will want to track down the horn & air bag issue by use of a wiring diagram, which I do not have for your year.

The brake light....I am guessing is the light on the dash.
It is possible that it is related to something with the emergency brakes, and the fact that the vehicle stays stopped on it's own without your foot on the brake would indicate that one or more of the brakes is dragging.....which could be the emergency brake, or another cause.

Thank you for the replies, will go on about one at a time, right now priority is the gas tank, tried murrays today, they dont have it, will try autozone, looked on the net, the prices are un believable, 136.00$ . there must be a cheaper replacement , something universal. I went back to the guy who sold me and asked him to cut me a deal, he wouldnt, says its a big hassle to change it, have to make sure the fuel relays are attached properly, the fuel pump etc. I went to another mechanic, he says labor is $150 and i buy the tank. there must be something better , if it is easy to replace the tank, what tools do i need and what should i be careful when doing. I am newbie. thanks for your replies, will keep posted.

I also start wondering about the repaired gas tank.
It is a tough plastic material, which does not rust.
So I wonder how the hole(s) got there?.....
I would replace, not repair......especially after reading that it is not a real difficult repair.

The leaking gas tank makes me wonder what else under there has been hit, etc.
It might be worth having a "4 wheel alignment" from a trusted shop, to verify that the wheels are tracking true.......front and rear.
And a visual inspection from under there to look for any cables, etc that might have been pulled.
I am thinking, depending on the location of the patches on the tank, that the vehicle might have traveled off road during one of the accidents.

I would also check to make sure any recalls that come up for your vehicle have been taken care of.
Your local dealership will be able to tell you of any recalls for your vehicle from the VIN.
Recalls are taken care of for free.....and it is a real good idea to check into for any used vehicle that you buy, even from a dealer.

Please note that TSB's (Technical Service Bulletins) are different from recalls.
TSB's are notes to auto technicians on how to address various problems that may come up.
They are super useful information in getting to the root cause of a problem, and how to perform specific repairs to correct problems, and to prevent new problems.

The other problems, you will have to address 1 at a time.
I suspect that several problems will come down to a single cause.
You will want to track down the horn & air bag issue by use of a wiring diagram, which I do not have for your year.

The brake light....I am guessing is the light on the dash.
It is possible that it is related to something with the emergency brakes, and the fact that the vehicle stays stopped on it's own without your foot on the brake would indicate that one or more of the brakes is dragging.....which could be the emergency brake, or another cause.


its really not dripping you can only feel the tank wet it when you touch it. thanks for the replies. I will have the other things checked out as soon as i get some free time.

The fuel pump is inside the gas tank, so that would be the item that you must be the most careful with.
I would absolutely disconnect the battery before starting the job.....it only takes a small spark.
It sounds like you can have the job done for around $300 or less with tax.
You might want to have a new "sock" filter put on the fuel pump while it is off.
The sock filter is on the fuel pickup arm of the fuel pump.....

... tried murrays today, they dont have it, will try autozone, looked on the net, the prices are un believable, 136.00$ . there must be a cheaper replacement , something universal...

$136 is pretty darn cheap for a new replacement gas tank! Like the other guys suggest, tears/holes in a polyethylene tank are rare. It might be leaking at a fuel line above, from the sending unit or it might have a leaking seam. Fuel tanks are often covered under a 7/70 or 8/80 Federal Emissions Warranty, so you might want to check your literature. Which doors wont unlock, the fronts or the sliders? If it's the sliders, first try cleaning up the electrical contact pads on the door jambs. Aside from the fuel leak, these are pretty minor issues for a soon to be 6yr old ford.

Joel

As for whether the inflatable restraints are installed and active, any competent shop should be able to scan the vehicle to determine if the system is intact. If an inflator is missing or disconnected, the "AIR BAG" warning lamp should be on and remain on whenever the vehicle is running.

The same scan (or series of scans) should be able to determine if the brake warning lamp is caused by an ABS fault, sticking parking brake cable, or low fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir. The last two of those you should be able to check yourself rather easily.

As for the problem of it slowing down while driving, that, too, could indicate the parking brake mechanism sticking of hanging up. If the park brake cables or shoes are stuck in the applied position, there will be some rear brake drag at all times. If one of the prospective buyers of the vehicle happend to apply the parking brake and get it stuck, the symptoms would be as you describe. Park brakes which are seldom or never used can have a tendency to stick once they are applied - Another reason to use the park brake all the time.

Thanks to all for their valuable input, this is the best auto forum site. As far as the brake light, I think the emergency brakes might have somethin do with it. I lifted it up today and sure they were hard and I had a hard time put them down again. I will have that checked out.
Regarding the power locks issue, it only works the first time I get in the van, othertimes, they refuse to work, the sliding doors locks work fine , but the right side door wont open from outside even when unlocked , somebody has to open it from inside, I checked the child lock safety but everything looks ok. wonder why it wont open from outside??
thanks again for everyones valuable input, much appreciate it.

If you take the inside trim panel off of the door, you will see what linkage has come loose and needs to be hooked up. Perhaps this door was repaired after the accident ... who knows? You may have to take the trim panel off the opposing door to get an idea of what's missing ... if something is missing.