Transmission Help...Please!

Hello Guys,

I did the search and found the link for the Trans leak on the 2000 Rodeo. I guess i need to fix/replace the Accumluator Piston Cover/Gasket? I was leaking ATF and the shop charged me $120 to replace both of the large gaskets. Now he tells me that I need to take it to a Tranny Shop to get the O-Ring replaced.

Today I took it into AAMCO and they said I need to get my Transmission Resealed and It would cost $980!!! Does that price sound right to you guys?

I am also getting a loud vibration feeling when I accelerate between 45mph and 55mph. It happens when I give it gas, and only around that speed. They guy said it might be a problem in my rear diff and wants $200 to open and look at it.

What should I do about these two problems?? Please Help...Thanks

What should I do about these two problems?? Please Help.

First, avoid AAMCO like the plague. They are the Maaco of transmission shops. They always tell you its something much more expensive then it is. Search here, planetisuzoo.com , and 4x4wire.com for posts about it. I'm sure there's a post with a how-to for replacing that. I dont have an automatic so never payed much attention. If you dont want to do it yourself, any shop should be able to do it easy enough, doesnt really need to be a transmission shop.

For the 2nd problem, after the leak is fixed make sure the fluid is full and fresh. If not then correcting that might take care of the problem.

980 for the re seal is a rip off. the accumulator piston cover is routine at the dealer. free if you are the original owner and under 100,000 miles. it doesn't take horribly long either. i understand you need a specialty tool. others on here can tell you ball park price on what it should cost. run from aamco, i have heard to many bad stories about them. the dealer knows all about this problem, but if you have adverse reactions at the dealer try a reputable local tranny shop.

forgot don't drive it if it is leaking alot, you will cook the tranny.

Thanks for the input. I will stay away from AAMCO and check other shops and maybe the dealer. I just hate dealers for charging like $80 just to look at the leak. They tend to over charge too. It's leaking, but I just got the ATF filled up yesterday when they replaced the gaskets. So I should be able to last a couple weeks on the little drip.

What should I do about the Vibration Noise at 45 to 55 during acceleration? Is that part of the tranny problem or diff?

Are you actually feeling a vibration or just hearing it??

Something new, could be tires needing rebalanced, shock going bad, something in the driveshaft, etc.

Was that tranny low on fluid the 1st time you took it in, before yesterday??

That O-ring at the accumilator piston is a common transmission issue on the newer models I believe.

How many miles you got on your rig - it might be covered under warranty. Don't hold out too long before getting it fixed, I've heard they go from a minor drip to leaking 1-2 qts/day.

I have about 87K on the rodeo. I can feel the vibration under my seat. I took it to wheelworks today to get the tires rebalanced and i still hear it. Wasted $52 on that for no reason. The mechanic said the tranny was very low on fluid when i took it in last week. I have been driving with problems for a couple weeks. The reason I took it in to the shop in the first place was when I acclerate from a stop, the car begins to slip. LIke the trans is slipping. It only happen from a stop and once you got above 20mph, the problem went away. They fixed that problem by refilling the ATF. So it must have been pretty drained. I get afew drips on the floor when I park. so its not streaming out yet....

I really think that vibration is from the Driveshaft. The mechanic took it apart last week and lubed it. When I got it back from the shop, it started the vibration. I never had that problem before I took it in to the shop. I don't want to deal with them anymore because they are a bunch of morons...Its hard finding a good mechanic that is trustworthy...

Could be a bad U-joint.

$52 dollars to have your tires rebalanced!!! Holy shmokes - what do you have 60" tires or something - wow!!

Find a different tire shop, good-buddy; they'll suck you dry. I have 32" tires just the same as you, it don't take a special machine - just takes them doing it right.

Hate to say this about your tranny, but typically once the GM 4L30-E ever runs low on fluid, it's generally toasted. This particular transmission does NOT hold up when ran low or on dirty fluid. Slipping in 1st is very typical of low fluid level, I believe that's the gear with the highest pressure; and if you drove it for more then 2-3 miles being that low on fluid, it's probably in need of a rebuild.

Sorry; but that is one of the biggest culprits in this particular tranny's failure.

If you're no longer experiencing transmission slippage or issues, consider yourself VERY fortunate and make absolute certain to have that fluid changed again in 10-15k miles to refreshen/eliminate any remaining burnt fluid.

Sounds like the driveshaft is out of whack - find a diesel/over-the-road driveline truck shop. The one out in Vegas is who fixed my bad carrier-bearing, defective from factory.

I was driving around for about 3 weeks with the Slipping in first gear....I guess that wasn't such a smart idea....Just never had the time to get it to the shop. With the new ATF filled up, it went away, but the mechanic said I need to replace the o-rings to stop the leaking...

here are some links about that accumulator piston leak. they ought to help you. as to needing a complete resealing for ~$1000, yeah, right.


http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=&Number=914548

http://forum.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopic.php?t=8388

http://isuzufaq.ibctech.ca/TransleakAccumulatorPistonCover.pdf


hth

//bc

I was driving around for about 3 weeks with the Slipping in first gear....I guess that wasn't such a smart idea....Just never had the time to get it to the shop.

Well, sometimes our backs are just up against the wall, and when you're put between a rock and a hardplace for time, job, and vehicle availability - there isn't much you can do.

Just keep extra tad close maintenance on that tranny fluid, I would permanently change it more frequently to aid in it's health - it may or may not be more prone to weak spots now.

Keep us posted - and good luck.

Here are the steps I would take.

1. take it to the dealer and hace them check the accumulator piston cover. If it is leaking have them fix it (15 minute job).
2. Have them flush the tranny to replace all the fluid (I know some are going to say don't do it).
3. your Vibe, could be caused by the drive shaft being out of balance OR something as simple as a heat shield that is loose and buzzs at the right rpm or MPH (I had this happen to me and all it took was a hose clamp to stop it; I still have another heat shield that buzzs in the morning and stops after the truck warms up).

Go to the dealer with knowledge (telling them where to look) or they too can be like AAMCO and will guess at the issue.

Here are the steps I would take.

1. take it to the dealer and hace them check the accumulator piston cover. If it is leaking have them fix it (15 minute job).
2. Have them flush the tranny to replace all the fluid (I know some are going to say don't do it).
3. your Vibe, could be caused by the drive shaft being out of balance OR something as simple as a heat shield that is loose and buzzs at the right rpm or MPH (I had this happen to me and all it took was a hose clamp to stop it; I still have another heat shield that buzzs in the morning and stops after the truck warms up).

Go to the dealer with knowledge (telling them where to look) or they too can be like AAMCO and will guess at the issue.

i agree! some of these dealers do 10 of the accumulator piston covers a month. they know what they are doing! now i do not go to the dealer for everything but i do go when they have specific knowledge that others don't. it is important because your trans is on the walking the line of live or die. and if it dies a rebuild is in order. the problem with this is, it is not a very succsessful rebuilt unit. lots of people have problems with the rebuilt units. why? because not many of this 4l30e were produced. some tranny shops have never even rebuilt one. if it does need rebuilt do your home work on shops or get a reman from a reputable company like jasper. but hopefully after your seal is fixed and trans filled you will be A-ok. mike:2cents:

Thanks for all the input guys..I will be going to the Dealers first thing tomorrow morning.

Here's the list I made so far:
1. Check Accumulator Piston Cover
2. Flush Tranny
3. Check Driveshaft for vibration

Am I missing anything or is there any other preventative maintenance I should do while I'm there? I bought this rodeo in January and don't know how it was maintained before me.

Hopefully, this visit won't cost me an arm and a leg, I will keep everyone posted. Thanks

If the filter has never been changed on the transmission, have them do that too.

Okay, So I just dropped off my Rodeo at the local dealership. Here's a list of what I had them do...

1. Replace Accumulator Piston Cover
2. ATF Flush
3. Tranny Filter
4. Check Driveline Vibration at 45-55 mph during acceleration
5. Check Steering Column vibration at speeds under 25mph and when braking.

They wanted $925 for the list items, and that doesn't even cover the cost of # 4 and #5 yet, Just to check. As I was driving home, I called them back and told them not to replace the tranny filter. I know if might hurt me a little, but I cannot afford to pay $220 for a filter that might not even need replacing yet. He said the pan would have to come out? Doesn't need to come out anyways for the accumulator piston to be replaced? I thought doing it all at once would save on labor, but apparently, they charge everything separate, even when most of the labor is already done.

how much do they want to do just the accumulator piston cover? maybe just have them do that and top the fluid off and then take else where for the rest.

also the pan does not have to come down for the accumulator piston cover. it is on the side of the tranny. i was told takes specialty tools and alot of grunt to get the cover back on? mike

$220 for the tranny filter swap? Man do I feel valuable!

The accumulator piston cover is around $240 and the flush is $199. Probably double what other places charge on the flush, But I don't have that many days that I can take my rodeo to the shop, So i will have to let them on that one. As for the filter, I might do it some other time down the line. Can't afford it right now. I think it will be around $700 or so now. I don't know what else they charged for. Probably $80 each to check and advise on the vibration concerns.

Jeez, man I feel for you.

You said the vibration started after the visit to the other shop - right? Why not take it back to that shop and let them repair it; might be free of charge.

Transmission filter is your choice - you might be able to do it yourself. Yes the pan needs to come down, but there isn't much to it. And if you're not going to change the filter, don't know if I would do a flush on that transmission.

Word of wise has always been if you're over 60k on these tranny's and you opt to do a transmission flush, to change your filter first, then flush - otherwise, you could send loads of debris (from the filter) into the valve body

I know the old shop is responsible for the driveline vibration, but they kept it for two days and still can't figure it out. It's no use having idiots gawk and stare at it again and still not fix it. The Vibration betwwn 45-55 hasn't been resolved yet. (dealership called and kept if overnight). But the steering column rattle is due to loose wheel bearings.

About the tranny flush, They arlready did it. I wish I knew that before I let them today. I would have only done the accumulator piston there and get the filter and flush somewhere else.

Since you said I should get the filter changed before a flush, would it serve any purpose to bring the car in next week for a filter change and a different shop? Oh should I just cross my fingers and maybe hold on for another 10K and do the filter and flush again?

i don't know how handy you are but the wheel bearings can be a do it your self. did mine myself, took 4 hours but not that hard work. also mine need to be snugged up every so often, after i did them. these are the weirdest wheel bearing set up because they continually work loose.

Depends on the service history of that tranny and whether it leads an easy life - i.e. mostly highway, all on-road, etc. if this is the case, and it's had fluid changes at least every 30k miles, with filter change at least 1 time, you should be fine in leaving the filter alone and say doing another filter swap and flush at around 100k.

If this is your truck's first transmission flush, with no previous history of fluid changes, aside from last week, then I'd be tempted to definitely do the filter and partial drain in about 5-10k miles; OR if your truck lives a working life; i.e. off-road, constant stop/go traffic, towing, mountain driving, etc

My truck has 164k miles original transmission, 65% highway with 50% of that towing or mild off-roading; 35% city stop/go traffic. Truck still shifts superbly with only 2 filter change outs, a total of 4 flushes, with 5 partial flushes in the course of it's life.

is there a throw out bearing on the drive shaft?

is there a throw out bearing on the drive shaft?

the only 'throwout bearing' i know is the bearing that engages the clutch pressure plate when shifting a manual transmission.

do you mean something else?

//bc

Well, I finally got my rodeo back. Total Damage: $776.00 and They still couldn't figure out the Humming/Vibration when accelerating between 45 and 55mph. Now, I have to take it to a 4x4 shop and have them check my entire driveline...All they did was replace the front wheel bearings, ATF flush, and accumulator piston cover replacement.

Doesn't that just pi$$ you off!!

Are you the 2nd owner, is that why your accumular piston wasn't covered under warranty?

Has or have you ever changed your rear differential fluid? Has THIS been messed with recently; ie shop that lubed your driveshaft?

Could also be as someone mentioned before - your driveshaft could be out of balance if they took it all apart and didn't precisely reset it, it could make you VERY miserable.

Yes, I am the second owner, so it wasn't covered under warranty. The shop that lubed my driveshaft did not touch my diff, they are too cheap to change the fluid out and not charge me. But the vibration only occured after they messed with it. It was fine before then. I would take it back and make them fix it, but they have the upper hand. I'm scared they might not do the job right or intentionally sabotage some other component in my car as an act of retaliation for me demanding them to fix it. The only thing I can do is take to it another shop and pay them to fix it. I learned my lesson and will not go back there....I think the driveshaft is out of balance, hopefully it won't cost to much to get corrected somewhere else.

Just want to make it clear that I'm NOT suggesting you take it back there - I was only asking if they had messed with your differential.

I would definitely find another place, in fact, find yourself a good IMPORT mechanic - not that most american mechanics can't figure this truck out, but I've always had better luck with honesty and so forth from those that specialize in imports.