Anybody has in put on these?
should i replace the fuel pump and where is this located at is this near by the tank? is the pump manual or electric?
Thankz in avance.

I can give you input since I once replaced the fuel pump in my wife's old 1989 GC SE.

The fuel pump is electric and mounted inside the fuel tank. Replacement requires that you first remove the fuel tank from the vehicle, then remove the old pump from the tank. It is best to run the tank down to E before you begin. There is a special fitting under the car to allow you to siphon off excess fuel if the tank is full and the car don't run.

Now, a few questions from me to you: "Why do you want to replace the fuel pump?" Is it noisy? Has it stopped working? Is it working below design spec?

I would hate to see you replace this thing on a whim, without first testing it to make sure it is truly faulty beforehand.

I can give you input since I once replaced the fuel pump in my wife's old 1989 GC SE.

The fuel pump is electric and mounted inside the fuel tank. Replacement requires that you first remove the fuel tank from the vehicle, then remove the old pump from the tank. It is best to run the tank down to E before you begin. There is a special fitting under the car to allow you to siphon off excess fuel if the tank is full and the car don't run.

Now, a few questions from me to you: "Why do you want to replace the fuel pump?" Is it noisy? Has it stopped working? Is it working below design spec?

I would hate to see you replace this thing on a whim, without first testing it to make sure it is truly faulty beforehand.
The fuel pump is located near the engine like a regulator is not electric type , manual type attach to the side of the cam shaft .2.6 liter 4cylinder mitsubishi carburator type .it release some gas odor and the engine shakes after I drove it thru the traffic . the temperature gauge will rose up near the red line . if its on the freeway or night driving @ no traffic at all .
the guage is at the normal condition.
I've replace the fuel filter ,drain the radiator w/ coolant and it helps a little bit but the fan switch doesn't activate the fan need to replace the switch I guess.
that's why prolly my guage rose up and the engines runs like's its gona die.
so why does it have a fuel odor? if is not the fuel-pump

Oh, so you got a 2.6L 4 banger! That's different from the 3.0L V6 in my wife's old GC. I know the 2.6L real well because I have one in my 1980 D-50.

Yes, the fuel pump is on the side of the cylinder head. To check the performance of the fuel pump, put a fuel pressure test gauge on the output side of the pump. It should pump between 4.5 to 6 psi. If less, time to replace. Also, look for external leaks from the diaphram and replace if leaking. If no leaks and pressure good, keep it where it is. My D-50 has 171,000 miles and is still using the original fuel pump.

The gas smell can come from other things besides the fuel pump. You can get a heavy fuel smell if the choke is not working correctly. Is your choke opening fully when the engine warms up? The opening of the choke is controlled by coolant temperature. If the coolant is not heating up enough, the choke will not open fully. Be sure you are using a 195 F thermostat. Use anything cooler and the choke will not open all the way. A rich running engine will give you a gas smell and poor mileage. The choke is opened by the expansion of a wax element, which pushes out against an adjustment screw. With age, the point of contact between the wax element and the adjustment screw can wear down, causing the choke not to open all the way, even when the coolant is at the proper temperature. I recently had to replace this adjustment screw with a longer than original screw to get my choke to open properly again. Verify the operation of your choke and adjust accordingly.

Another thing you should double check is the valve adjustment, especially the air injection valves, which can be tricky to adjust correctly. Read up on this first and be sure the engine is hot when you adjust the valves.

The overheating is most likely either a bad fan or fan switch or relay. Check them all and replace what is faulty.

Here is a place to start. Let us know if you have any further questions or comments.

Oh, so you got a 2.6L 4 banger! That's different from the 3.0L V6 in my wife's old GC. I know the 2.6L real well because I have one in my 1980 D-50.

Yes, the fuel pump is on the side of the cylinder head. To check the performance of the fuel pump, put a fuel pressure test gauge on the output side of the pump. It should pump between 4.5 to 6 psi. If less, time to replace. Also, look for external leaks from the diaphram and replace if leaking. If no leaks and pressure good, keep it where it is. My D-50 has 171,000 miles and is still using the original fuel pump.

The gas smell can come from other things besides the fuel pump. You can get a heavy fuel smell if the choke is not working correctly. Is your choke opening fully when the engine warms up? The opening of the choke is controlled by coolant temperature. If the coolant is not heating up enough, the choke will not open fully. Be sure you are using a 195 F thermostat. Use anything cooler and the choke will not open all the way. A rich running engine will give you a gas smell and poor mileage. The choke is opened by the expansion of a wax element, which pushes out against an adjustment screw. With age, the point of contact between the wax element and the adjustment screw can wear down, causing the choke not to open all the way, even when the coolant is at the proper temperature. I recently had to replace this adjustment screw with a longer than original screw to get my choke to open properly again. Verify the operation of your choke and adjust accordingly.

Another thing you should double check is the valve adjustment, especially the air injection valves, which can be tricky to adjust correctly. Read up on this first and be sure the engine is hot when you adjust the valves.

The overheating is most likely either a bad fan or fan switch or relay. Check them all and replace what is faulty.

Here is a place to start. Let us know if you have any further questions or comments.
I took off the attach switch below the radiator looks like a copper filled with brown wax with 2 terminal wires . try to locate and order this but they told me ,if its a r12 or r34 refregerant.
So where is the fan relay Located at?
when do you need to replace the water pump? cos I sqeeze the top hose did'nt hear anything. top hose and bottom ones are kinda hot and solft.Thankz!

I took off the attach switch below the radiator and it looks like a copper filled with brown wax with 2 terminal wires . try to locate and order this but they told me ,if its a r12 or r34 refregerant :wink: :wink: ?.
So where is the fan relay Located at?
when do you need to replace the water pump? cos I sqeeze the top hose did'nt hear anything. top hose and bottom ones are kinda hot and solft.Thankz!
I finally fix the radiator fan by direct wiring .or attached
1) From the positive wires of the fan disconnect from the rubber connector usally covered terminal are thew positive side place a long wires that goes to the radio (+) positive outlet with a fuse 15 amps from my kenwood spare fuse parts wire no switch needed here..
2) From the terminal fan negative side. usually expose when disconected from the rubber connector (- )to the chassi screwed under the dash board . with a switch on and off (single pole) negative wires side only,
! Warning Do not to combine the positive wires to the negative switch terminal together separate em from the console box radio !.
it saved me $120.00 for the needless fuel pump and radiator switch cost $9.00 ,$80.00 for the relay .=$229.00
my van runs smoothly , now I can go directly thru the traffic jam without worries.its just need to replace the two hoses later. Hope this will serve or help others who have the same Malfunctioning radiator Fan.:wink: