01 camry le v6 heater switch problem?

So just last night I tried running my heat on my usual setting, heat all the way up and the fan speed at 1 or 2. I noticed there was no heat coming out. I tried speed 3 and 4 and the fan kicks on as it normally would. Upon investigating I discovered that the fan does not come on at all in the first and second speed. Nor does it make any noise. I just doesn't go. Further investion showed that as I drove the heat came through even with the fan off. Once I hit about 20 mph and above heat would start coming in just fine, or just the cool outside air depending on the temperature setting. I called my dealership figuring it would be the right thing to do since I have an extended warranty through them and as well figure it's covered under that. The guy asked if I cleaned out debris from under the hood near the wipers and I did even before he said so. One person also suggested it's the switch and isn't a big deal. If it's the switch I believe it's covered. Any opinions anyone?

Your extended warranty documentation should let you know if it's covered. Besides the switch there is a low speed resistor or a set of resistors that control fan speeds. They are behind the dash to the right of the control panel.

The nice thing about non-American cars is that you do not need the fan when the car is moving. It is common on a lot of makes for the resistor pack to fail and only the fan's high speed will work. The resistor pack for the fan failed a couple of months ago on my '90 Toyota pick-up. Due to the age of my truck, it is no longer under warranty. I haven't been any hurry to fix it yet, because the fan works on high, which is the setting I use to clear the windows before driving and once I get going I just turn off the fan and let the incoming air from driving work in place of the fan. I like the fact that I don't have to listen to the fan while I am driving on the freeway. It is a feature I miss when driving my American made station wagon.

I looked into my warranty and it said manually operated switches and the switch is one. I didn't say anything about the resistors though. I guess it's not a big deal if it's a common problem as long as the high speeds will continue to work and I won't be without heat this winter. It is nice to drive and not hear the fan and still have the heat coming in. Now for another opinion question. I called my dealership and scheduled from them to take a look at it next friday and if it's out of warranty I have to pay an $85 diagnostic fee plus what needs to be fixed. I'm not in a hurry to fix it especially since I don't have much money and have to pay a few bills. I just wonder if I called and cancelled the appointment it will make them suspect something and void my warranty. I believe they are only voided when there is obvious abuse to the car right?

Why not just call the warranty company and ask them if it's covered. Tell them you believe the blower motor resistor is bad from everything you have read and have been told. If they say it's not covered, then just repair it yourself. Stick your head under the dash on the passenger side of the vehicle. If there is a partition under there restricking access, then remove that first. Locate the blower itself and follow the wiring back a bit. You will see the resistor pack. It will be held on by 1 or possibly 2 screws. Unplug the electrical connector and remove the resistor pack by unscrewing the screw. Screw in the new one and plug in the electrical connector. That's all there is to it. A couple of things to point out. First, they are usually located in the blower motor housing as they are kept cool by the blower motor itself, to increase the resistor's longevity. Second, it might be a good idea to buy the part at the dealer first, so you will know what it looks like.

Good luck.

Mike

If interested there is a diagram of the resistors location in the Camry Factory Manuals thread at the top of the forum. As Mike said, call. Can't imagine them having the balls to cancel it because of a suspicion. Canceling your appointment won't be a problem. I believe the only reason your warranty can be canceled is for non payment. Should state possible reasons in the documentation.

It sounds like a good idea to just do it myself like you have suggested. Is there any way that I can check the resistor before replacing it just to make sure that is it that? And how much would it cost? It definatly sounds correct that that's it because I think if the switch itself wasn't working then none of the heat settings would turn on. And when disconnecting the resistor are there any certain precautions I should take like disconnecting the battery? The car is also equipped with an alarm system if that makes any difference.

Logic tells me that if I fork money out of my wallet to pay for a warranty I sure as hell am going to utilize said warranty to fix whatever needs fixing if it's covered. Not to mention the time involved and the possibility I could brake something in the process because I've never done it before and pay even more money to get that fixed too. AS MIKE SAID CALL THE WARRANTY COMPANY and see if the resistor is covered. Seems like a simple question. You will avoid many potential headaches if it is. If it's not covered press on with the DIY effort and remember this when you're asked if you want another extended warranty.