1997 S-!0 Blazer Starting Issue

Hey guys... I am having a weird problem with my 97 S-10 Blazer with the 4.3 in it. It will not start on mornings that are under about 45 degrees. When you turn the key on, the fuel pump runs. It will get 60 PSI of pressure. When you try to start it, it cranks and cranks and cranks, but does not fire. Whats weird though is that sometimes, if you tap the throttle pedal, or sometimes if you hold the pedal to the floor, it will spit and sputter. After you crank it for 2-3 minutes, it will finally start even if you dont touch the throttle. If the temp outside is above about 45 degrees, the thing will usually start right up every time. My 96 S-10 pickup with the 4.3 in it had this same issue even up until I sold it. I never could figure out what the problem was with it. In the Blazer, I have replaced the fuel pump, and the fuel filter, and it doesnt seem to have helped it at all. Once it starts, it runs and drives great though. When I checked the fuel pressure, it would go up to 60 PSI when I would turn the key on. When running, it runs about 55 PSI at idle. When I shut it off, it would drop to 50 almost instantly, and within 5-6 minutes, it would drop to 40 PSI. I have a new regulator here to try, but it seems to be doing its job right. Do I need a new spider? I have heard there is a new design out there to fix issues like this, but I cant find anyone that has tried it yet to see what it would do. Help!!!

Well, this morning I finally had a chance to hook up the fuel pressure gauge before I attepted to start it, and it was about 35 degrees last night. First turn of the key, 20 PSI. Second turn, 25 PSI. After about the 10th time, it finally made it up to 55 PSI and started. Up until that point, it would not fire at all. Does this sound like a regulator issue? It did the same thing when it was cold last year with the old fuel pump too.

Sounds like a weak battery, a regulator or a weak pump.

It is also a 1997 so an ignition switch problem can't be ruled out either.

Well, I put a new regulator in it last night, primed the system, and it started fine. This morning, I came out and tried to start it, and I had to try it 3 times before it started. I dont think its the ignition switch problem, as the fuel pressure seems to climb until it starts. I dont know if i should try another pump or not now.

Well, I put a new regulator in it last night, primed the system, and it started fine. This morning, I came out and tried to start it, and I had to try it 3 times before it started. I dont think its the ignition switch problem, as the fuel pressure seems to climb until it starts. I dont know if i should try another pump or not now.

For a cold start the injectors need 63-64 lbs of fuel pressure to fire.
2-3 lbs low and they will not squirt fuel.
Check the direct/full fuel pump pressure you should have 85-95 lbs full pressure with a good fuel pump.
If it is getting full voltage and good ground and good fuel filter.

Hard to start cold.
Check cold start fuel pressure.
Check engine running fuel pressure.
Check engine running on the road fuel pressure.
Then shut it off and watch for fast leak down.
Pinch off at rubber part or block off return line and check full pressure.
Later V6 and V8 gm engines should have 60-66 fuel pressure.
Cold start should be 64-65 lbs of pressure.
If you do not have full fuel pressure on a cold start the injectors will not squirt fuel.
Do not leave home without it.
Engine running should be 60-66 lbs pressure depending on engine load.
Full pressure with return pinched off should be 75-85 or more.
And if it has a fast leak down after shut off you have a leak.
Post back fuel pressure readings.

Well, I put a new regulator in it last night, primed the system, and it started fine. This morning, I came out and tried to start it, and I had to try it 3 times before it started. I dont think its the ignition switch problem, as the fuel pressure seems to climb until it starts. I dont know if i should try another pump or not now.

Dephi or Carter pump or it is the stock unit?

Its a delphi. I replaced the pump only, and not the entire fuel bucket.

Aw nuts I have the same problem with my '97. Took me a week and a half with the 1/2 hour of daylight I have after work to replace the fuel pump and filter. It drove like a champ the day I finished fixing it, but in the morning it cranks and cranks. Did you ever figure out a solution Fish? *crosses fingers*

I haven't checked the fuel pressure since I replaced the pump, but I intend to soon. It was wet and rainy when I tried to start it this morning, so I'm going to give the ignition system a looksie in the next couple of days. I haven't changed the rotor or plug wires since I've owned it, so maybe?!?

Ok got mine sorted out.

New fuel pump and filter, 55 psi key on, pouring gas down the throttle body did nothing.
Coil continuity fine, then I found this:

http://www.bonesnapper.com/hosting/DSC01852.jpg

Looks like my rotor burned through the distributer cap shorting to the mounting screw. I'm trying not to beat myself up too much for replacing the pump unnecessarily. It's the original pump, and good Lord would it have sucked if it went a month from now during the winter.

Why did it drive fine the day I replaced the pump? Strange.

Ok got mine sorted out.

New fuel pump and filter, 55 psi key on, pouring gas down the throttle body did nothing.
Coil continuity fine, then I found this:

http://www.bonesnapper.com/hosting/DSC01852.jpg

Looks like my rotor burned through the distributer cap shorting to the mounting screw. I'm trying not to beat myself up too much for replacing the pump unnecessarily. It's the original pump, and good Lord would it have sucked if it went a month from now during the winter.

Why did it drive fine the day I replaced the pump? Strange.

From the picture you need to reset he dist camshaft retart.
It is way off.
Rotor is not ceentered to fire at the plug wire terminal.
Replace with a AC delco cap and rotor and get it set before it burns up another cap and rotor.

I don't know if that is needed, it is just arching to a close metal object.

The one thing I am concerned with is if the person used a delphi pump as the replacement.

I don't know if that is needed, it is just arching to a close metal object.

The one thing I am concerned with is if the person used a delphi pump as the replacement.

BlazerLT
Is the dist needing set what you do not know if needed?
A complete picture of the bottom of the cap would show it a little better but it looks like the camshaft retard setting is way off and that may be what burnt a hole in the cap.
If rotor does not fire at the center of plug wire terminal it will fire some place way off from it and cause spark to jump way to far or burn up cap and rotor.

True, or the cap could have been cracked and exposed the screw as a conductor.

Seen it happen on a couple of occasions.

How can the timing jump that much without removing and improperly installing the distributor?

Here's a better pic of the whole underside of the cap:

http://www.bonesnapper.com/hosting/DSC01856.jpg

I knew something was up the second I popped off the cap. Strong smell of burned plastic. I thought the rotor might have been rubbing or something but it's unmarked.

My Haynes tells me that the retard is set by the pcm, but I'll give the distributer a twist tomorrow to see if it's not tightened down or something.

The new pump is a Deplhi. I got it from here:

http://store.getgmparts.com/fg0071.html

Best price I could find. I was a little worried when I didn't get any order confirmation email and I couldn't find any reviews of the site, but it showed up a couple days later. It says Delphi on the box.

Thanks guys!

Here's a better pic of the whole underside of the cap:

http://www.bonesnapper.com/hosting/DSC01856.jpg

I knew something was up the second I popped off the cap. Strong smell of burned plastic. I thought the rotor might have been rubbing or something but it's unmarked.

My Haynes tells me that the retard is set by the pcm, but I'll give the distributer a twist tomorrow to see if it's not tightened down or something.

The new pump is a Deplhi. I got it from here:

http://store.getgmparts.com/fg0071.html

Best price I could find. I was a little worried when I didn't get any order confirmation email and I couldn't find any reviews of the site, but it showed up a couple days later. It says Delphi on the box.

Thanks guys!


Are the terminals on cap burnt on one side or straight over to rotor?
It is strange where the hole is burnt so far from the cap terminal.
When you get it back together have the camshaft retard setting checked on a scanner. If it is over 2 degrees - or + you will need to adjust the dist.
Also check wires and plugs if spark can not go threw the wire to plug it will find someplace else to go like threw the dist cap.
Good luck

True, or the cap could have been cracked and exposed the screw as a conductor.

Seen it happen on a couple of occasions.

How can the timing jump that much without removing and improperly installing the distributor?

A Crack will do it for sure also bad wire that the spark can not go threw.
On the dist hard to tell how many times it has been out or moved or replaced.
I have even saw rebuilt dist with the dist gear 190 degrees off and you can not set the camshaft retard.
And also on some of them the dist are not adjustable.
Big problem if you need to set it.:grinyes: :grinno: :lol:

Are the terminals on cap burnt on one side or straight over to rotor?
It is strange where the hole is burnt so far from the cap terminal.
When you get it back together have the camshaft retard setting checked on a scanner. If it is over 2 degrees - or + you will need to adjust the dist.
Also check wires and plugs if spark can not go threw the wire to plug it will find someplace else to go like threw the dist cap.
Good luck


You know, they are kind of burnt on one side of the post. I've been looking for a reason to get a real scan tool. I paid ~$200 a few years ago for a glorified code reader, and it's just not enough. I'm thinking of one of these:

http://www.scantool.net/products/product_info.php?cPath=8_6&products_id=32&osCsid=b1432f88e9e2390c4a621885e58efaf7

Thanks for the feedback.
I'll check the resistance on those plug wires, too. That's a good idea.

Edit: The dist has never been out since I've owned it (about 7 years).

Just run it with the new cap and then inspect the cap in a week before you play with the distributor.

Just run it with the new cap and then inspect the cap in a week before you play with the distributor.

Not sure about that BlazerLT
If he does not fix the problem he may have two or mores holes inthe cap next week.:grinno: :lol: :grinyes:

Not sure about that BlazerLT
If he does not fix the problem he may have two or mores holes inthe cap next week.:grinno: :lol: :grinyes:

Well, I would just run it a day to see if all is well and check. I would start messing with an important thing like timing beofre you know for sure theer is an actual problem with it.

I can't believe this. I went out to start it today and it cranks and cranks. I smell gas at the tailpipe, so back to the ignition system I go.

So, so far we have a no-start> low fuel pressure> replaced pump > drove fine when testing> No start the next day.

A few days later:
Found a short> replaced cap and rotor> drove it all around that day> next morning won't start.

Replaced the ignition switch last year.

I hate this truck. HATE!

I can't believe this. I went out to start it today and it cranks and cranks. I smell gas at the tailpipe, so back to the ignition system I go.

So, so far we have a no-start> low fuel pressure> replaced pump > drove fine when testing> No start the next day.

A few days later:
Found a short> replaced cap and rotor> drove it all around that day> next morning won't start.

Replaced the ignition switch last year.

I hate this truck. HATE!

Well look at the bright side of it. :grinyes: :grinno: :lol:
Now when it no start is a good time to check it and find out the problem.
First check for good hot spark to all or at least more than one plug.
And if you still have that fuel pressure gauge check that fuel pressure.
You need 63-64 lbs of fuel pressure for a cold start on it.
Post back on spark and fuel pressure.

Thanks for the support, MT. I'll need to wait for the old lady to help me with the spark check. The only checker they had at the part store has a small gap instead of a light. Any easy way to check the pcm besides having it throw codes? No codes are stored at all, not even from when I accidentally mixed up the wires on the dist cap. :/ Heh heh.

Thanks for the support, MT. I'll need to wait for the old lady to help me with the spark check. The only checker they had at the part store has a small gap instead of a light. Any easy way to check the pcm besides having it throw codes? No codes are stored at all, not even from when I accidentally mixed up the wires on the dist cap. :/ Heh heh.

There is no easy way to check pcm.
You just have to check what goes in and comes out.:grinyes: :grinno: :lol:
A good scanner helps read out what it is doing.
But No codes for a bad pcm.
If it is running fuel pump and triggering injectors and firing ignition it is usually working.

The gap checker is good it should jump over a 1\4 inch with a good hot blue spark.
And make sure it is firing up fuel pump.
Post back on spark and fuel .

There is no easy way to check pcm.
You just have to check what goes in and comes out.:grinyes: :grinno: :lol:
A good scanner helps read out what it is doing.
But No codes for a bad pcm.
If it is running fuel pump and triggering injectors and firing ignition it is usually working.

The gap checker is good it should jump over a 1\4 inch with a good hot blue spark.
And make sure it is firing up fuel pump.
Post back on spark and fuel .

Thanks MT. I always tend to assume the worst. :/

I dove back in today. Fuel pressure within specs, I double checked the primary and secondary of the coil and they are also within specs. I popped the new distributer off to look for any signs of arcing, and for the heck of it I tried to start it up with the cap on and the screws removed. It fired right up.

So, it seems like you are correct in that I must have too much resistance in one of the plug wires (or a bad gap) and the spark is opting to go to the wrong place. I'm gonna get a new set of wires today. Doesn't look like a fun job though. :( I'll let the plugs be for now. They look downright impossible.

Thanks again!

Thanks MT. I always tend to assume the worst. :/

I dove back in today. Fuel pressure within specs, I double checked the primary and secondary of the coil and they are also within specs. I popped the new distributer off to look for any signs of arcing, and for the heck of it I tried to start it up with the cap on and the screws removed. It fired right up.

So, it seems like you are correct in that I must have too much resistance in one of the plug wires (or a bad gap) and the spark is opting to go to the wrong place. I'm gonna get a new set of wires today. Doesn't look like a fun job though. :( I'll let the plugs be for now. They look downright impossible.

Thanks again!


Now would be a good time to get the plugs put in with new wires.
Part of them can be reached easy thew fender well.
Remember a bad plug can have a lot of resistance just like a bad wire.
Do a search on plugs or how to.
Good luck
Mt
The plugs are not as bad as they look.

And here we are again. No start in the morning, with new plugs, wires, distributer and rotor. Jumper battery in tandem doesn't help either.
Thoroughly annoyed, I ordered a new coil for the heck of it ($38). I'm going to now shovel parts at it like a grungy shirtless guy shovels coal into an old-timey train. Once I exceed $300 more, I get rid of this crate.

The worst thing is, with all this 'works fine!'/'Oh now it's dead!' nonsense I don't feel like I can trust this thing anymore. Where will it not start? After work? The Mall? It's anybody's guess!

And here we are again. No start in the morning, with new plugs, wires, distributer and rotor. Jumper battery in tandem doesn't help either.
Thoroughly annoyed, I ordered a new coil for the heck of it ($38). I'm going to now shovel parts at it like a grungy shirtless guy shovels coal into an old-timey train. Once I exceed $300 more, I get rid of this crate.

The worst thing is, with all this 'works fine!'/'Oh now it's dead!' nonsense I don't feel like I can trust this thing anymore. Where will it not start? After work? The Mall? It's anybody's guess!

Well it will not take much shoveling to shovel 300$ worth of parts at it.:grinyes:
But I would shovel a little proper testing at it to start with. :grinyes: :grinno: :lol:

Well it will not take much shoveling to shovel 300$ worth of parts at it.:grinyes:
But I would shovel a little proper testing at it to start with. :grinyes: :grinno: :lol:


Oh MT, why must you mock me? :( I know not what to do.
My testing has proven to be worthless; my confidence is destroyed.
Every non-firing crank is like a dagger in my heart.

I have spark, I have gas. What more do I need to satisfy this beast!?!?

But I must admit, you are right as usual. :grinyes:

Oh MT, why must you mock me? :( I know not what to do.
My testing has proven to be worthless; my confidence is destroyed.
Every non-firing crank is like a dagger in my heart.

I have spark, I have gas. What more do I need to satisfy this beast!?!?

But I must admit, you are right as usual. :grinyes:

Well I was not trying to mock or make fun.
Spark and right fuel pressure and also injector pulse and it should go.

It is just that you need to get in there and find what the culprit is.
Throwing parts at is is usually does not help and sometimes makes two problems instead of one.
Remember on the 4.3 you have to have the correct proper fuel pressure.
Even a couple of lbs low will give a no start.
Then good hot blue spark and also injector pulse.
If it is burning up the cap and rotor something is bad in the primary ign. system.
The best time to check/test is when it no starts.
Maybe walk away from it for a while and then go back at it.:grinyes:
Maybe look around for a good repair shop or a good mechanic buddy to help you.
Two heads are better than one.
Good luck and let us know how it goes.
MT

Oh MT, why must you mock me? :( I know not what to do.
My testing has proven to be worthless; my confidence is destroyed.
Every non-firing crank is like a dagger in my heart.

I have spark, I have gas. What more do I need to satisfy this beast!?!?

But I must admit, you are right as usual. :grinyes:

No did you replace the key tumbler last year or the ignition swtich harness?

Well I was not trying to mock or make fun.
Spark and right fuel pressure and also injector pulse and it should go.

It is just that you need to get in there and find what the culprit is.
Throwing parts at is is usually does not help and sometimes makes two problems instead of one.
Remember on the 4.3 you have to have the correct proper fuel pressure.
Even a couple of lbs low will give a no start.
MT

I was just kidding. I know you weren't mocking. :)

I hooked up the fuel pressure tester and it does seem a bit low. Now the pump is brand new (new filter too), so I'm a bit puzzled. I'm going to pull the battery to get it checked at Autozone and see if it isn't cranking enough amps or something.

I went out to put in the new coil and it started up. Grrr!

Would a bad fuel pressure regulator cause something like this? Hopefully it's just the battery not pushing enough amps to give good fuel pressure.


Also: I replaced the whole ignition switch harness last year, not just the box part.

Thanks again for the help, guys.

I was just kidding. I know you weren't mocking. :)

I hooked up the fuel pressure tester and it does seem a bit low. Now the pump is brand new (new filter too), so I'm a bit puzzled. I'm going to pull the battery to get it checked at Autozone and see if it isn't cranking enough amps or something.

I went out to put in the new coil and it started up. Grrr!

Would a bad fuel pressure regulator cause something like this? Hopefully it's just the battery not pushing enough amps to give good fuel pressure.


Also: I replaced the whole ignition switch harness last year, not just the box part.

Thanks again for the help, guys.

As long as battery has good voltage 12.5 -13.6 it should have good fuel pressure.
If fuel pressure is even a few lbs low the injectors will not squirt on a cold start.
Yes fuel pressure regulator controls pressure as long as the fuel pump is pumping full pressure 75-90 lbs.

ard to start cold.
Check cold start fuel pressure.
Check engine running fuel pressure.
Check engine running on the road fuel pressure.
Then shut it off and watch for fast leak down.
Pinch off at rubber part or block off return line and check full pressure.
Later V6 and V8 gm engines should have 60-66 fuel pressure.
Cold start should be 64-65 lbs of pressure.
If you do not have full fuel pressure on a cold start the injectors will not squirt fuel.
Do not leave home without it.
Engine running should be 60-66 lbs pressure depending on engine load.
Full pressure with return pinched off should be 75-85 or more.
And if it has a fast leak down after shut off you have a leak.
Post back fuel pressure readings.


Go threw the full fuel pressure test and post back readings.

As long as battery has good voltage 12.5 -13.6 it should have good fuel pressure.
Go threw the full fuel pressure test and post back readings.

I hooked up a jumper battery for a while to see if it affected the fuel pressure when I turned the key on, and it didn't.

I have the CSEFI injection system which the specs say should be between 55-61 PSI key-on. That's what I have, a little over 55. It climbs into the 60's when I gas it.

I just finished putting in that new coil that I ordered, and while I'm not ready to pop the champagne yet, I think we may have found it. When I managed to get it going before it was sort of 'crankcrankcrankstumblecrankstumblevrooom'. With the new coil it's now 'crankcranVROOOM!'. It also seems to have more oomph when I'm driving it. :cool:

It's worth noting that the primary and secondary coil resistance on the old one was well within specs, and I had spark at the cap and the plugs.

Of course, it's been 3 times now that I thought I fixed it and it didn't start the next day. :rolleyes: We'll see.

I have the CSEFI injection system which the specs say should be between 55-61 PSI key-on. That's what I have, a little over 55. It climbs into the 60's when I gas it.


Haynes manual? Those things have caused a lot of people problems. The proper spec is 61-66psi. Anything less than that causes hard/no starts. The fuel pressure spec is probably the most important one for these vehicles and they managed to mess it up in such a way to cause the most problems.

Haynes manual? Those things have caused a lot of people problems. The proper spec is 61-66psi. Anything less than that causes hard/no starts. The fuel pressure spec is probably the most important one for these vehicles and they managed to mess it up in such a way to cause the most problems.

Why yes, it is a Haynes. I'm not too worried about it; heck, if I move around the fuel pressure tester and flex the hose slightly it changes the reading 3 PSI or so. And I'll be damned if I'm going back under to rip out a 1 month old fuel pump because of a few PSI. :)

I've tried to start it several times in the last couple of hours and it fires up instantly. Tomorrow morning will be the true test...

Why yes, it is a Haynes. I'm not too worried about it; heck, if I move around the fuel pressure tester and flex the hose slightly it changes the reading 3 PSI or so. And I'll be damned if I'm going back under to rip out a 1 month old fuel pump because of a few PSI. :)

I've tried to start it several times in the last couple of hours and it fires up instantly. Tomorrow morning will be the true test...


We did not say you had to rip out the fuel pump.
Low fuel pressure can be caused by a number of things.
That is why I posted the fuel pressure test.
So you could find out where the problem is.
They may start and run when hot all day with low pressure
But you have to have the proper fuel pressure for it to squirt the injector on a cold start.
That pressure is 64-65 lbs of pressure.
But if you are to bull headed to listen we can not help you.
You will have to learn the hard way. :grinyes: :grinno: :lol:
Good Luck
MT

Why yes, it is a Haynes. I'm not too worried about it; heck, if I move around the fuel pressure tester and flex the hose slightly it changes the reading 3 PSI or so. And I'll be damned if I'm going back under to rip out a 1 month old fuel pump because of a few PSI. :)

I've tried to start it several times in the last couple of hours and it fires up instantly. Tomorrow morning will be the true test...

If you dont' want to listen, we will stop helping.

You are just wasting our time if you want to do it your way.

But if you are to bull headed to listen we can not help you.
You will have to learn the hard way. :grinyes: :grinno: :lol:
Good Luck
MT

Bull-headed, yes. How else could I keep from simply getting rid of this crate? :)

I put in a new fuel filter with the pump, I double checked the lines coming from the tank for crimps or twists, and frankly the thought that I may have a bum pump makes me sick to my stomach. That's why I'm a little sensitive about it. :(

I just don't know what could cause low fuel pressure besides those things? :confused:

I honestly don't mean to be annoying. I really do appreciate your input.

My fuel pressure is about 57 key-on cold and it holds when I turn the key off. In fact, I left the tester on overnight and it was still the same the next morning.

When this problem originally started it was in the 50's in the morning (the time it didn't start) and today it's firing up no problem in the high 30's. So I don't know. I just don't know. :(



Edit: Whoops that's confusing. I mean the outside temperature was in the 50's when I had the no-start. And today was cold, in the 30's.

It has to be 61-66psi cold for proper function.

You have these things possibly wrong.

1.) Bad fuel pump
2.) Bad fuel pressure regulator
3.) Bad fuel pump relay
4.) Bad fuel pressure regulator.

There is no way the truck will run off of 30psi.

My fuel pressure is about 57 key-on cold and it holds when I turn the key off. In fact, I left the tester on overnight and it was still the same the next morning.

I don't think you're seeing the maximum pressure on the fuel pump pressure Gauge. Remember when you turn the key on the fuel pump only runs for 2-seconds and then shuts down. The key then has to be off for 10-seconds before the fuel pump will run for another 2-seconds.

With a properly working pump, the fuel pump reaches its max pressure during that 2-seconds, which should be something over 61 psi. When the pump shuts off the fuel pressure will immediately fall 5 or 8 psi. (This is normal) I think what you're seeing in the pressure after it falls, as there is no way in hell it will hold max pressure overnight.

To see the max pressure put the Gauge where you can see it when you turn the key on or else get someone else to turn the key or watch the Gauge.

I don't think you're seeing the maximum pressure on the fuel pump pressure Gauge. Remember when you turn the key on the fuel pump only runs for 2-seconds and then shuts down. The key then has to be off for 10-seconds before the fuel pump will run for another 2-seconds.

With a properly working pump, the fuel pump reaches its max pressure during that 2-seconds, which should be something over 61 psi. When the pump shuts off the fuel pressure will immediately fall 5 or 8 psi. (This is normal) I think what you're seeing in the pressure after it falls, as there is no way in hell it will hold max pressure overnight.

To see the max pressure put the Gauge where you can see it when you turn the key on or else get someone else to turn the key or watch the Gauge.

Whoa wait a minute. I didn't realize that. I've been turning the key on and running around to take a peek. My hose is too short to snake it to where I can see it from the driver's seat.

I'll get a helper and check it out. Thanks!


Update: Starts like a champ in the morning, for the first time in a month.

So I'm not sure if a bad plug wire caused a short which burned up the cap and killed the coil (I spaced out and threw out the wires without testing them) or if the coil went bad and caused the burnt cap. I'm going to try and drive it to work tomorrow. *fingers crossed*

Welp, she starts just fine now. I've probably tried to start it 20 times in the last couple days and it seems the problem is fixed. My battery is old and the 20 degree weather made the starter slow to crank but it still fires up immediately. Huzzah!

Welp, she starts just fine now. I've probably tried to start it 20 times in the last couple days and it seems the problem is fixed. My battery is old and the 20 degree weather made the starter slow to crank but it still fires up immediately. Huzzah!

Well give us a hint.
Was it the battery or other?:grinyes: :grinno: :lol:

Yea, what was the solution?

I still have the 3+ year old cheap-o battery in there, and it is worse than ever now with this brittle cold. So that's not it. Looks like the coil was problem, or all that distributor cap-melting misfiring from a bad plug wire or whatever caused the coil to fail. Chicken or the egg, I dunno.

I read a couple of postings on usenet and other boards about coils that checked out fine and provided spark to the plugs but were still bad. I needed to order a new belt tensioner pulley anyway, so I thought why not spend the $38 to get a new coil too, just to rule it out.

Old coil no start, new coil and she starts great, even with that now-struggling battery.

Now I need to track down this obnoxious cold weather squeak I get every winter! I swear, if it's not one thing...

I still have the 3+ year old cheap-o battery in there, and it is worse than ever now with this brittle cold. So that's not it. Looks like the coil was problem, or all that distributor cap-melting misfiring from a bad plug wire or whatever caused the coil to fail. Chicken or the egg, I dunno.

I read a couple of postings on usenet and other boards about coils that checked out fine and provided spark to the plugs but were still bad. I needed to order a new belt tensioner pulley anyway, so I thought why not spend the $38 to get a new coil too, just to rule it out.

Old coil no start, new coil and she starts great, even with that now-struggling battery.

Now I need to track down this obnoxious cold weather squeak I get every winter! I swear, if it's not one thing...

Glad you got it starting OK.
But if the battery is weak or not turning over good.
It is time for a good battery. :grinyes: :grinno: :lol:
A weak battery will give you more problems than you can shake a stick at.
It could damage starter and alternator and fuel pump and ign and pcm and other stuff to.
It might even cure that squeak.
A weak battery over loads charging system.:grinyes: :grinno: :lol:
Good luck
MT

I put in a new battery today. No luck on the squeak though :(
:lol:

Thanks for all the help and emotional support. :)

What did you do to fix the squeak?

What did you do to fix the squeak?

Nothing yet. Still working on it. I can't really tell where it's coming from. I hit all the rear moving parts and bushings with some lube but it's still there. Some of the front end grease boots seem a bit empty so if it's not raining I'm gonna lube all the zerks on Wednesday and pull the front tires off to see what's doing. Lubing the whole front end last winter did no good as far as fixing the squeak, however.

It's strange.. It doesn't squeak when I hit a bump with any particular wheel, it's more afterward as the whole truck moves. If I rock it back and forth while it's parked (hard!) there's no squeak. But when I drive around it's bad. Like every little bump *Squeaksqueak*.

If I don't find anything I'm gonna pull the calipers off while I have the wheels off and hit the back of the pads with some grease.

Other than that my plan is to spray the bushings and shocks with penetrating lube one at a time until it shuts up.

I'm open to suggestions, to say the least! :)

U-joint

Lube your u-joints.