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ticking 92 eclipse gs 2.0


for0you0only
10-22-2006, 10:10 PM
what is this ticking sound coming from under the valve cover its starting to worry me...also losing pep it had...servicing the valves next week can some please give me some advise on what it could be hope not crankwalk
manufactured 3/92 92 eclipse gs 2.0 auto non turbo............

mike8818
10-22-2006, 10:13 PM
Most likely not going to crank walk its the 4/92 and after you have to worry about. It sounds like a lifter tick how old is your oil in might be too thin try a heaver weight.

Blackcrow64
10-22-2006, 10:37 PM
Lifter tick... ALL of these cars have it. The oiling hole is too small in the lifters. If you want to correct it then replace it with v2 lifters that they ran in 2000+ eclipses.

defiancy
10-22-2006, 10:44 PM
Yep, it's no big deal. Just a noise.

mike8818
10-22-2006, 10:52 PM
Lifter tick... ALL of these cars have it. The oiling hole is too small in the lifters. If you want to correct it then replace it with v2 lifters that they ran in 2000+ eclipses.

A question are they direct fix in 1g's.

Thor06
10-23-2006, 12:02 AM
Yes.

mike8818
10-23-2006, 12:05 AM
Sweet that will be added to my list.

gthompson97
10-23-2006, 01:40 AM
Lifter tick or rod knock. If it's losing pep, the noise gets louder, and it's actually coming from the block (not head), then it's rod knock. If it's just a little ticking noise and it stays they way it is, it's lifter tick. Replace them with some revised lifters and you'll be good to go.

And how are you going to "service the valves" I would like to know?

Thor06
10-23-2006, 09:20 AM
gthomson is right, a clicking noise coupled with losing pep = bye bye rod bearing. Ask me how I know. If it starts getting really loud, pull it over and have a buddy give you a tow.

for0you0only
10-23-2006, 04:25 PM
Lifter tick or rod knock. If it's losing pep, the noise gets louder, and it's actually coming from the block (not head), then it's rod knock. If it's just a little ticking noise and it stays they way it is, it's lifter tick. Replace them with some revised lifters and you'll be good to go.

And how are you going to "service the valves" I would like to know?
rod bearings? oh oh could be rod bearings...it does get a little louder after driving it for 10-15 miles does not constantly tick or knock but enough to irritate you. also 3000+ rpm at 70 mph. nasy at cold start, have to warm up for atleast 10 minutes or else it vibrates with no pep at all when accelerating until warm and only at take offs...experts help please.THANKS

Black99GST
10-23-2006, 09:02 PM
rod bearings? oh oh could be rod bearings...it does get a little louder after driving it for 10-15 miles does not constantly tick or knock but enough to irritate you. also 3000+ rpm at 70 mph. nasy at cold start, have to warm up for atleast 10 minutes or else it vibrates with no pep at all when accelerating until warm and only at take offs...experts help please.THANKS

my moneys on a rod bearing... sorry man :2cents: and welcome to A/F put your car in your sig thanks!

Thor06
10-23-2006, 09:06 PM
Me too... :(

Sucks doesnt it?

boyertownMidnight
10-23-2006, 09:33 PM
umm i doubt that its a rod knock, i have had 4 n/t's in my life time and i shifted at 7000rpm on some of them and never spun a rod, i think its a lifter, run 10w-40 in the summer and 10w-30 in the winter and your be fine. My daily driver with a 2.0 got 212,000miles and its running like brand new so you should be fine.

gthompson97
10-23-2006, 10:55 PM
Now that you say it gets better I'm pretty sure it's not rod knock. A rod will knock CONSTANTLY, louder and harder as the rpms go up and it'll get louder and worse the more the engine runs until the rod eventually breaks. I've blown many motors for stupid reasons, and rod knock is a noise I know like the back of my hand, and this doesn't sound like it. My bet is now on lifter tick It sounds like they aren't getting oiled well enough until the oil warms up and flows better. What viscosity of oil are you running?

Boyertown, you should run 10w30 when its hot and 5w30 when its cold because 10w-30/40 is a thicker oil than 5w30 and won't oil as well in cold temperatures and has a much harder time circulating through the oiling system.
And a shifting point on a car really doesn't have an effect when spinning a rod bearing, it's the overall condition of the car and how it's taken care of. I sometimes beat the hell out of my 99 sierra with 242,000 in the field, especially when it's really muddy, but the thing still runs like brand new cause I take care of it.

for0you0only
10-24-2006, 07:23 PM
Now that you say it gets better I'm pretty sure it's not rod knock. A rod will knock CONSTANTLY, louder and harder as the rpms go up and it'll get louder and worse the more the engine runs until the rod eventually breaks. I've blown many motors for stupid reasons, and rod knock is a noise I know like the back of my hand, and this doesn't sound like it. My bet is now on lifter tick It sounds like they aren't getting oiled well enough until the oil warms up and flows better. What viscosity of oil are you running?

Boyertown, you should run 10w30 when its hot and 5w30 when its cold because 10w-30/40 is a thicker oil than 5w30 and won't oil as well in cold temperatures and has a much harder time circulating through the oiling system.
And a shifting point on a car really doesn't have an effect when spinning a rod bearing, it's the overall condition of the car and how it's taken care of. I sometimes beat the hell out of my 99 sierra with 242,000 in the field, especially when it's really muddy, but the thing still runs like brand new cause I take care of it.lifters? are they also called lash adjusters? i heard that i really don't need new ones , i just need to clean the gunk out and reuse them. and can this be done in one weekend day by a beginner mech.? will cleaning or replacing the lifters(lash adjusters) bring life back to the car?
lot of questions this is the first import that i think is worth my time and money...future tuner...thanks guys

gthompson97
10-24-2006, 08:31 PM
Cleaning them works in some cases, but I'd just replace them to be sure you won't have to do it again. It's not the easiest thing to do in the world, but not the hardest. You have to pull the valve cover, timing belt, cams & gears, and then the lifters.

Black99GST
10-24-2006, 08:51 PM
lifter tick wont cause the car to loose power...:screwy:

gthompson97
10-24-2006, 11:04 PM
lifter tick wont cause the car to loose power...:screwy:

That is true. I think he may have a number of issues that are all "linking" together at the moment.

TalonEclipseMixGsx
10-24-2006, 11:28 PM
sounds like lifters to me my 94 talon with a 1.8 does it bad on cold mornings almost sounds like a diesel then it goes away, i run castrol 10w30 high mileage on it, and its done it since the day i got it with 112k miles on it now has 170k. my 98 gsx does it for maybe 10 seconds and goes away i run 5w30 mobil synthetic in it, it has 102k miles. They both run fine though and dont seem like they lose any power because of it.

for0you0only
10-25-2006, 04:16 PM
That is true. I think he may have a number of issues that are all "linking" together at the moment.just what i suspected, multiple issues with the car. well i'll replace them and see how it does and post the results in the meantime what else should i check... compression, exhuast leak, fuel filter, tranny/cv axle, etc.? and again thanks guys

for0you0only
11-06-2006, 07:17 PM
lifter tick wont cause the car to loose power...:screwy:question, after the car has cooled completely for say half a day why, when i start the car and after few minutes put in drive does it feel so rough when going through the gears? anyone whos had this problem and solution please respond thank you again

gthompson97
11-06-2006, 07:33 PM
Have you checked the tranny fluid? May be time for a complete flush with new fluid and filter.

for0you0only
11-06-2006, 07:45 PM
Have you checked the tranny fluid? May be time for a complete flush with new fluid and filter.just had tranny fluid and filter chaged 3 months ago. i forgot to mention i had ran over a major pothole and thats when the problem with going through each gear really rough when cold... thanks thompson for qiuck reply

gthompson97
11-06-2006, 09:42 PM
I'd crawl underneath the car and check if you dented something. You may have dented the tranny pan up into the suction tube thingy and it doesn't flow well unless the fluid is warm.

for0you0only
11-20-2006, 03:46 PM
I'd crawl underneath the car and check if you dented something. You may have dented the tranny pan up into the suction tube thingy and it doesn't flow well unless the fluid is warm.well got my pep back, when i hit the major pot hole i ran over the hole while making a turn and the impact jammed the cv axle against the tranny and damaged the seal where the cv axle and the tranny meet. replaced the seal on both sides of the tranny and wow what a big difference. anyone with any tips or suggestions on what to do after replacing the seals. i'm sure it caused some hidden damage to the tranny. thanks guys

TeamRedLine23
11-20-2006, 04:40 PM
umm i doubt that its a rod knock, i have had 4 n/t's in my life time and i shifted at 7000rpm on some of them and never spun a rod, i think its a lifter, run 10w-40 in the summer and 10w-30 in the winter and your be fine. My daily driver with a 2.0 got 212,000miles and its running like brand new so you should be fine.

just because you havent had rod knock in your cars doent not mean it can not happen to other cars.:chair: j/k

gthompson97
11-20-2006, 07:17 PM
I don't see how replacing the seals would give you any more power, or cause it to lose power in the first place. That doesn't sound right to me.

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