I am not familiar with cars at all. But I have been having problems with my 1991 Toyota Camry. It won't turn one. When I got to start it, the lights and radio go on....and I hear one little click...not it does not turn over. If i keep trying to turn it on, it will finally go. I took the starter out and took it to Auto Zone. They ran it three times and said it was still good. I'm not sure what it could be. But If you look at the "positive battery fuse block?" two of the fuses are really burned out. Is this what I need to replace. What else could it possibly be??? HELP!!

Jessica

By "possitive battery fuse block" do you mean the three "fuses" on the positive battery cable connector at the battery? Though they look like fuses they are actually fusable links. Which of the three are bad?

Where did the click noise come from? Under the hood at the starter relay or from under the dash somewhere? Has the car gotten extremely wet recently ie, driven through big puddles etc?

Well, yes that is what I'm talking about. The one in the middle and on the left. I know for sure one of them says 'ALT' on it. And when I we tried to take them out, there is such corrosion that we couldn't take them out in one piece. Where do I go to get a new one?? Approximately how much do they cost??

In regards to getting my car wet, no rain or puddles. (i'm in az) However, we did notice that the main hose coming out of the radiator is leaking really bad and there is an actual puddle of antifreeze near the engine.

With those fusable links (FL) blown you've only got one of seven ciruits working. Do your best to clean the FL holder. My dealer says they can't order just the holder. Have to order the whole engine harness at $600. Check with your dealer. Check parts stores and the internet. Somebody might have it. All else fails there's junk yards. I've had good luck with this one:
http://www.taprecycling.net/

Usually in this senerio, either the battery, starter, alternator and rarely the ignition switch shorts and takes out the FLs. In your case it looks like the rad hose could have sprayed coolant on the FL holder and shorted it directly. Getting the starter tested was a good move. To CYA I would get the battery, and alternator tested too. Check the other FLs in the fuse box under the hood. See here:
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/13/f3/8c/0900823d8013f38c.jsp Keep in touch.

Most never have to deal with FLs. Any info you learn along your way to a fix would be greatly appreciated by those that have to. Cheers!

Two problems here. They are affecting each other.

1. The solinoid contacts are worn. You can replace them easily.

2. The "neutral switch". Somehow the resistance is too high and lowers the voltage to the solinoid. So the solinoid doesn't get enough power to push the contacts tight enough.

I had this problem before. Fixed the contacts, but was too lazy to replace the neutral switch (it's under the tranny). So I rewired, connecting from the key column directly to the starter solinoid (skip the neutral switch), This fixed it forever. But you have to be careful, make sure is in neutral or park when you start it.

So pretty much I'm screwed if the fusable links holder was cut last night?...someone working on my car decided that was the best thing to do because they figured there was no way we could put new FLs in them.

I really appreciate both of your responses but I am having a hard time understanding the lingo. And I'm pretty sure both of your are saying different things to do. Am I right? Or am I totally clueless.

Thanks!

Two problems here. They are affecting each other.

1. The solinoid contacts are worn. You can replace them easily.

2. The "neutral switch". Somehow the resistance is too high and lowers the voltage to the solinoid. So the solinoid doesn't get enough power to push the contacts tight enough.

I had this problem before. Fixed the contacts, but was too lazy to replace the neutral switch (it's under the tranny). So I rewired, connecting from the key column directly to the starter solinoid (skip the neutral switch), This fixed it forever. But you have to be careful, make sure is in neutral or park when you start it.
Proman,

jessicajoi said she had the starter tested at auto zone. they tested it three times and it tested out fine. could the solinoid contacts in the starter be worn and the starter test fine at auto zone?:screwy: do you think the neutral saftey switch is worn and this could be the reason her car clicks when she turns the key? do you think it's combination of the two?:banghead:

Regards,
JOET/CAMRY

Looks like I got fixated on the fusable links. I fogged the issue and appologize. I overlooked the fact you said the engine eventually cranked and started. This would elliminate the FLs as the cause. If the FLs were blown, voltage could not get from the battery to the starter. Your mechanics were correct to try to do something with them. Cutting off the assembly was a move made without enough info before hand. What's done is done.

ProMan is on the right track. One reason the starter worked fine at Autozone could be the connections on the starter when in the car, could have been corroded or loose. The new connections at Autozone let the starter work. Consider the starter good for now but, put the idea of starter solinoid contacts in your back pocket. Test stands at shops are set up for ideal conditions not real world. Their testing is a good indicator but, not concrete.

I'm betting since the car will crank and start eventually, the neutral start switch, starter relay (the click), and ignition switch are good. That leaves the starter which, appears ok, and .....the battery. Corroded, loose battery connections or a weak battery can cause exactly what you're seeing. Add a weak old starter to the mix and you double your chances of a problem.

I had a battery give no indication of weakness ie, bright lights, good crank speed, and took little charge on a charger. Car would crank all day but, no start. Fuel, spark, timing all there but, no start. Jump the car, it starts. Changed the battery and problem is gone. I probably didn't notice a weak spark and the battery probably would have failed a load test.

What to do now. As you know all this is mute till you fix the fuseable link holder issue. Besides the sources I mentioned in the last post check with a shop that specializes in auto electronics. They may know of a way to clean it up and splice it back in or other options. Once that's fixed or while you're waiting have the battery charged and load tested. If it is 4 years old or more buy a new battery. Might concider changing the solinoid contacts in the starter as ProMan suggested. Don't forget the radiator hose. Time to put my hands in ice. Keep in touch.

If this only happens sometimes (sometimes it clicks, others you get in the car turn the key and it starts right up), and
if the click sounds like it is coming from the engine area, and
if the click is loud, not a small click,
then my call is that it's your starter contact.
Search for it in the Camry forum. Contact will cost you about $5, and a total of an hour to take out the starter, replace the contact, and put the starter back in the car. enjoy. Let us know.

How many miles? Mine had to be replaced at about 125K. Anthing over 100K, starter contacts are fair game.

My car is a 91 and there are 132K miles on it. I bought it back in April of 05. I haven't changed the battery at all and I'm not sure when the previous owner had changed it last. From what I've been told, it doesn't like like it's in the best of shape. I will definately buy a new battery. And I will let you know what happens after the FL holder is replaced. I was told from the dealer that part is going to cost about $180 and take approx 9 hours to complete. Does this sound right. I cannot afford that so I am going to have to look at some junk yards. Does the part have to come from another 91 camry?? Mine is a 4 cylendar...can it come from a 6 cyl??

I'd open it up and check the contacts before spending all that money. Yes, the starter can act fine sometimes even with the contacts bad. I had days when it would turn right over 3-4 times in that day, then take about 10-15 minutes to get in the mood to start the 5th time. It doesn't cost much and doesn't take much work. Knock out the cheap and easy stuff first.

The problem is that the FL holder has already been cut out. So I have no choice but to replace it.

What a difference a different dealer makes. At least it beats $600. If they say 9 hours it must be the whole harness. That sounds right. Try the tap recyclers link in a previous post. They are a massive junkyard near Sacramento,CA and have always had parts I needed. They pull the part and mail it to you. The dealer should be able to tell you what parts are interchangeable to what years. Most major junkyards have the same books. If it's the whole harness 4 and 6 cyl are not interchangeable. If it's just the FL module, I would think 4 and 6 cyl should be interchangeable. Just don't know for sure. Stick with the 4s. Don't forget to replace the rad hose.

My car is a 91 and there are 132K miles on it. I bought it back in April of 05. I haven't changed the battery at all and I'm not sure when the previous owner had changed it last. From what I've been told, it doesn't like like it's in the best of shape. I will definately buy a new battery. And I will let you know what happens after the FL holder is replaced. I was told from the dealer that part is going to cost about $180 and take approx 9 hours to complete. Does this sound right. I cannot afford that so I am going to have to look at some junk yards. Does the part have to come from another 91 camry?? Mine is a 4 cylendar...can it come from a 6 cyl??

Hello Jessica,

the fusable link holder should be the same for a 1987 - 1991 camry. I am not sure if the 6 cylinder 87 - 91 camry would have the same FL setup as the 4 cylinder camry.:dunno: maybe other older model toyotas might have the same fusable link setup as your 1991 camry. you just have to go to a auto salvage yard and look around. bring the fusable link holder from your car for compairison if you didn't throw it out.

I don't know why the person who worked on your car couldn't just clean off the corosion off the FL contacts. :confused: if you needed to replace the broken fusable links you could have gone to the junkyard / auto salvage yard and take them out of a 87 - 91 camry there. I'm suprised they were in that bad of shape. oh well... what's done is done. :banghead:

On my 1989 camry their is a plastic cover for the fusable links to keep them clean and dry. I checked them out today and they were fine. no corrosion.

132,000 miles.... wow your car is just a baby. it's defenitely worth fixing up. mine has 195,000 miles and still running strong.:grinyes:

good luck fixing your car.

Regards

JOET/CAMRY

Ok so the FL holder is replaced.....car still wouldn't start. Replaced the battery....car still wouldn't start! At this point, I am probably going to take it to a mechanic? Does anyone have any other ideas as to what it could possibly be.

Just to remind, when I stick the key in the ignition and turn it....my interior lights come on, my radio...but I hear nothing but one click coming from under the hood. HELP!

One of my friends had a thought.....a few months ago my power windows and door locks went out. The thing that works is the power locks from the passenger side. So I can't roll down my windows or lock all doors from the drivers side....nor does the seat belt deploy on the drivers side. So my friend thought maybe it has something to do with my electrical system or the wires...and that's why my car doesn't start. Does that make sense?

If you get 12 vdc at the battery lead connection (big diameter wire) on the starter all the time and 12 vdc at the selinoid connection (small diameter wire) on the starter when you turn the key to start, the selinoid contacts or the starter is bad. You can mess with changing the contacts or just change the starter.

Alternate method: Can you feel the starter relay click when you turn the key? Can you feel the starter selinoid click when you turn the key? If you feel the relay click and not the starter selinoid make sure the wire from the relay to the selinoid is good then change the starter.

Ask Autozone if they did a "no load test" on the starter ie, nothing to give reisitance to turning. Just applied voltage, watched it spin, and called it good. Could be why the starter looked good to them. When the starter is in the car it has to kick out, engage the flywheel, and turn 4 cylinders that are doing everything they can to keep from moving due to the compression created. If they did a "load test", did it create the same resistance as your car would create? Hmmmm

Go to the FAQs thread at the top of this forum that reads "Important: Camry FAQs/Information - SEARCH HERE AND FORUM BEFORE POSTING ( 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 )". On page 1 of 7 read post #4 (little yellow number in upper right corner of post) with heading "Starter clicks once but does not turn engine". Might shed some light.

Your power windows and door locks have no effect on starting. That said, I never say "it can't" without making some effort to prove it. Pull the fuses for the door locks and windows and try starting it. Who knows? Might be loading the system and robbing power from the starter.

"Can you feel the starter relay click when you turn the key? Can you feel the starter selinoid click when you turn the key?"

WHat is the difference in the click sounds?

You got me there. Dam near impossible to clearly describe. Go with the feel check. Should feel a vibration when either clicks. Or you could put your ear to the relay then make a stethoscope out of a piece of garden hose and listen for the starter to click.

Well, I found out what is wrong with my car. It's the safety switch! My mechanic said it will cost $450 with parts and labor. But he also said he could just take the safety switch out. What do you think?

$450 is a good chunk of money but, could be pennies compared to accidently starting a car in drive or reverse with someone nearby or running it through a garage or any one of a hundred other scenerios. The switch is called a neutral safety switch for a reason.

Here's how to change it: http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/13/f4/46/0900823d8013f446.jsp Doesn't look too complicated.
NAPA wants $214 for the switch but I'm betting you could find it cheaper locally or on the net. Could always go for used parts at a recycler. I use these guys now and then: http://www.taprecycling.net/

Looks like we were fixated on the most likely parts to go bad (except Proman). The neutral switch certainly isn't on that list. I was trying to get you to or away from the switch with "the feel/listen test". Your mechanic had the advantage we all wish for - hands on the car. One question: How did you solve the fuse holder issue? The whole harness or just the holder spliced in? Keep in touch. Cheers!

Since This Site Helped Me So Much I Fugured I Give Back Some Info.......my Wife Crossed Cables When Jump Starting, Blew The 2 Fuseable Links Coming Off Positive Battery Terminal...beware The Middle Fuse Dose Not Pull Out Of The Top Until You Unbolt It........(i Broke Mine) Unbolt The Fuseable Link Holder From The Battery So You Can Get To The Sides Of The Black Holder...and There Are Two Caps That Pop Off Either Site Take A 10mm Socket Unbolt Both Sides And Cables Come Out, Then You Can See That You Can Pull The Center Fuse Out I Believe It Is A 80a Or 70a The Highest One..go To Toyota Dealer And Buy One For $7.00 And The Other One You Can Buy At Autozone For $2.00.....once I Replaced Car Still Wouldnt Start....next To The Battery Is A Long Skinny Fuse Panel There Is One Fuse Called "main Efi" (not The Round One) It Is A 15a Fuse (you Can Buy A Box From Autozone For $1.99 That Stops The Fuel From Flowing....car Started Immediately....nothing Else Needed To Be Replaced...hope This Helps...

Great advice. Appreciate the input. Welcome to the forum. What year Camry was it?