Radiator fan relay

99 plymouth voyager 3.3

PLEASE!! could someone please give me some specific notes as to where this thing is located! I have spent 3 freakin hours trying to find it and no luck.
I am to cheap to buy the book but would apprecate some specific help.

I have read that it is on the left side down by the radiator. Where???????? I have followed the wires from the fan motors and they just go into a bundle. Some say that it is a wafer size relay mounted on the side wall . I have removed all of the air cleaner stuff but no luck. anyway...could some one be so kind to tell me EXACTLY where it is located. A roadmap. I admit. I am stupid! I am frustrated! But I don't want to spend 200 bucks to get this fixed!

I would also like to add that the radiator Fan Fuse was blown which I replaced and still didn't fix but fuse hasn't blown again!

Thanks

It should be below your air filter box, attached to the radiator brace. There are numerous threads and links on this forum with pics and detailed info on replacing the relay.

However, make sure your temp sensor is working properly first. The temp sensor is about $14-15, while the relay is $60-80 and cannot be returned if you install it and find out your original one was ok.

I really do appreciate your help but still no luck. Is it actually mounted on the radiator or the fender???? It's a flat wafer looking thing right??? I have got the air filter out of the way but see nothing other than the wires coming from the 2 fans into a connector and then to a bundle. Anyway you could tell me exactly where it is??? Could it be possible that the 99 wa different. I can't find any threads that link to pictures as to wear it might be. It's not on the engine is it??

Also where is the temp sensor and how do I check??


Thanks

Left front inner frame rail just behind the radiator . If you facing the engine on the right side wheel well just behind the radiator.

Before you change anything you have to figure out why the 40 amp fuse blew so you don't trash a new component. I'm betting one of your fans has siezed. Can you turn them by hand? Is one of them harder to turn than the other? Disconnect the fan connectors and measure the resistance of the fan motor windings. Just put your meter leads on each pin and read the resistance. If one reads a lot lower than the other, the motor is probably toast. Still can't find anything wrong? Make a set of jumper wires and "hotwire" each fan to the battery. Connect each lead from the battery to the pins on the fan. Be careful not to touch the leads together or you'll get a hell of a spark. If they turn freely the relay is bad. A word to the wise: throughout your troubleshooting be aware the fans could turn on at anytime. Keep your hands away from the fans unless absoultely necessary.

Only reference to a 99 relay location I found was "on the firewall next to the radiator on the drivers side". Heres a picture of a relay: http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=45089&password=&sort=1&cat=500&page=1

Some talk about it mounted under the drivers side headlight assembly on other model years.

mishala has a good point. One thread said if you disconnect the temp sensor the fans will kick on automatically or you can jumper the pins on the harness connector together and the fans should turn on. If they turn on change the temp sensor.

Ok thanks, maybe I am getting somewhere.

I checked the fans and yes you were right. One fan was very very easy to spin and other seemed stuck and then lots of friction to spin. I replaced the
breaker and unhooked non spinning fan. Other fan still does not come on with AC. Do both have to be working???? I haven't done the jumper thing yet but I will. Now as to the sensor. Where is that one??? sorry about so many questions. I also see a cable going into and under the front headlight ass. Maybe that is where the relay is.

Thanks

Ok I jumpered the fans and BOTH come on and run fine. Is the next thing to check the temp sensor??? Where is that located??? Also is the fact that the fans Don't come on with AC rule out sensor??? Does that indicate Relay?

ok i found temp sensor on top of engine behind large radiator hose. I disconnected and fans DID NOT turn on. So does that mean I am back to the relay??? Still have to find it and if it is under headlight well how to get to it??

Thoughts please....I really do appreciate all of the expertise. What a lesson in car mech. I really appreciate you guys more and more

See if this link helps: http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=3920171

Kmaniac can tell you more details than you'll need.

From what you've found it looks like the fan siezed, fried the relay and blew the fuse. I would have thought the fuse would protect the relay but then we are talking about a Chrysler product. Yes, it appears the relay is what you have to find and replace. I would say you need to replace the fan too. If it stuck once it can stick again. You can take the chance of not changing it. It could last forever. If it sticks it could take out the rad fan relay again. Then you wasted the money on the first relay. Ever shot craps? If you decide not to change it, at least look closely at the housing and blades and see if there was something creating interference. Maybe the housing is cracked and was binding up the fan blades. Maybe something was stuck in there. Who knows?

Don't know what to say about the relay location. I can't find any reference to pinpoint it further. I've never had to chase it down and never removed the headlight assembly. One thought. Have you looked up from under the van to find the relay? At least you know what it looks like now.

Many of us aren't mechanics and have to learn about cars by doing. Myself included. You're on your way.

PS First, thanks for the favor. Second, if you had a manual you may not have to wait for us to answer your questions.

In my 2000 Service Manual, if the system is the same, it describes the Fan Relay as a Solid State Relay unit mounted underneath the driver's side headlamp assy. It requires removing the headlamp assy to gain access. Then the rivets holding the unit must be drilled out. Attach the new unit securely to the frame I assume using poprivets or suitably sized screws. The location and secure attachment is for cooling the relay as it is solid state. Like RIP and others mentioned, something caused all this. Most likely the stiff turning fan. Replace that one too.
Good Luck

Today I took off the headlight assembly and underneath a black cover was ....Yes the dreaded RELAY!!!!! It has rivits in it!!! Oh boy!! Now a couple of question before I go to that trouble and blunk down the money..

Is there any other check to make sure it is the relay???
Is there any simple way to bypass the relay??

If I choose not to replace the one fan motor could I just unhook it and go with one ( would one work) Motor replacement looks out of my league.

I will say I really know how to take and put back on all of that air filter stuff by now.

I might add that I drove the VAN (not fan) all day today in present condition and the coolant guage never went past normal (half way between C and H) am I just lucky???

Thanks for all the help

Good Lord! When's the last time you had this much fun? Glad to hear you finally found that little bastard. You don't want to hear this but I found a thread on another forum that said it was easier to get to the relay by removing the drivers side wheel then the inner wheel well liner. That was on a 2001 so I hope that doesn't apply. I was about to post it then I saw your last post.

You say you drove the van(fan?) today and it never overheated. Well, that would make a couple theories go out the window but, like they say, don't look a gift horse in the mouth! You can assume the fans were coming on but, MAKE SURE. Let it sit and idle for a while and make sure the fans come on and go off several times. Turn the A/C on and do the same. (When I said the fans come on all the time when the A/C is on in a previous post, I was trusting what I read elsewhere on the forum was correct-maybe not). If all is well then you'll have to decide the next move. It could very well work forever or it could leave you stranded somewhere. Personnally, I would drive the piss out of it today then see what happens. The only problem may have been that stuck fan and the fuse. You looked the fan over good to make sure there was nothing obvious binding it up right?

I don't have a schematic for a 99 so I don't want to lead you astray trying to bypass the relay. One thing to keep in mind is the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) allows the relay to turn your fans on and off. This is the silver box next to your battery. It is a solid state "computer" that is very voltage/current sensitive. If while testing or bypassing anything in the circuit you make a wrong move, you could toast the PCM and be out several hundred dollars. If this ever gets to the point you suspect the PCM, I would have some knowledgable eyes look at it. Here's a little background on how the PCM integrates the system: http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=171060&highlight=radiator+fan+relay+caravan

If you prove the fans are working and you're not getting warm fuzzies over the stuck fan, disconnect the fan that was stuck and see if the other fan continues to work. I'm thinking it will. I wouldn't make that a permanent fix. It could lead to transmission and A/C problems not to mention a cooling system thats not working at it's full capacity. Keep in touch.

OBTW - You mentioned a fan motor R2 is out of your league. Look what you have accomplished and learned by going through this process so far. Was it really all that tough? Give it some thought.

Found this: http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1a/3f/36/0900823d801a3f36.jsp It's instructions for removing the fan assembly. At the bottom (if you still need it) are instructions to test the fan relay.

If you still want to test the coolant temp sensor (mute I hope) measure the resistance across the pins on the sensor with the engine cold then hot. Cold should read 7,000-13,000 ohms. Hot should read 700 to 1000 ohms.

Yep I meant I drove the VAN not Fan! Got fan on the brain.
About taking the wheel off to get to relay??? I read that somewhere also but on the 99 it's definately underneath the Headlight assembly.

Now I have never actually seen the FANS come on while the car or AC was on. I was basing everything on the fact that the fans would come on anytime the AC was on. If that is not the case then maybe just maybe it was just the blown fuse. I guess the only way to tell is like you said let the thing idle for a while with the ac on and see if fans come on.

I will let everyone know!
Thanks for all of your help!

You guys are going to love this!!! Wife came home from work driving van. Short trip. I decided to test van. I opened hood ...fans not running. I turned on AC ..fans did NOT run! So I waited and let van run!!! Guess what????? The fans came on!!!!!!!!!!!! No kidding! I watched the fans for a while and did notice that when they would cycle off and on that the suspect fan would stop quickly while the other would spin freely for a while. So it is probably only a matter of time before fan motor is gone I would suppose. So I guess the theory on what happened was correct. Fan caused breaker to go but protected the relay. So this has been quite a learning experience. So should I start another thread on how to replace just one fan motor????? Sure glad I didn't spend bucks on new relay. I really feel like this has been a team effort. I really appreciate all of the help.

So......................how do you change that motor??? Do you have to take out that whole fan assembly with both fans ???....I know buy a book!:tongue:

I wrote this before I read your post about changing fan motor!! Thanks! I will keep everyone posted!

Thanks again!

I just checked out the instruction for replacing the fan motor. Also the price. Says you have to change the whole assembly..both fans.

Me thinks it would have been cheaper an easier to replay relay!

Yes its a whole assembly that must be replaced .

Well maybe not. At carparts.com (couldn't get the whole link to open) you can buy the individual fan motors. Logic tells me you should be able to change just one fan motor. You'll probably have to remove the whole assembly, maybe not. Prices ranged from $96 - $199. Complete assemblies are going for $450. I found this sight in two minutes. There are others for sure. Food for thought.

"Start a new thread changing one fan motor" By all means yes. You'll be teaching all of us something.

Glad to hear they are continuing to come on. I'm still wondering why it never overheated throughout. Or did it? I appologise if I lead you astray on the A/C fan issue. A lesson for you and I (again). Don't take everything you read for gospel.

Looks like I lead you astray again. If you openned the Autozone link in my previous post to get the price, you got the wrong price. Though the instructions were for your van but, the price was for a 93 Camry. (site mechanix). The correct price is there now.

Ok, thought I would give and update and seek an opinion.

I have been driving van for about a week now and today the Service light came on again and of course the fuse had blown. I suspected that the suspect cooling fan caused the blown fuse again. (however fan didn't seem seized or stuck at all) I just want to make totally sure that it is the fan before i go to all of the trouble of replacing.

I have replaced fuse again and have unconnected the suspect fan. I ran van for a while with AC on and the connected fan runs by itself. I plan on running van on short trips to see if fuse blows again. If it does then it wasn't the suspect fan. If it doesn't after a period of time then I will replace the cooling fan assembley.

Does this sound ok as long as I am careful that van doesn't overheat????
suggestions??

Thanks

Sounds like a plan. Keep in touch.

I have the same problem with a 98 Grand Caravan. Based on this forum, I'm trying to fix this myself, and other than having to buy some new metric tools, it's been kinda fun.

I've replaced the fan, which had a bad motor. The fuse was good and the lead from the control unit went to ground when the A/C is turned on. So, now I'm tryiing to replace the relay, which was easy to find with the fan taken out.

The only problem I'm having is with the connector to the relay. I know this may sound kinda stupid to you guys, but I can't get the thing off. Is there a trick or do I just use more force.

On the fan connector, the red slide moved a little, but I played around with it so much I broke it. I don't want to break the one on the relay.

Thanks

I replaced the fan relay on my 1997 Grand Caravan a couple of years ago. It was held in by screws mounted below the air cleaner box on a frame member of some type.

As I recall I jumped my fans and they ran meaning, that the fans were good. I also checked the temp sensor and it seems like the resistance is supposed to vary as the coolant temp changes which it did.

I looked for a blown fuse and fusible link and didn't find either.

The clincher was a check of voltage at the relay. I had 12 volts at "into the relay" side of the load circuit, but the 12volts out to the fans wasn't happening. I assumed that the problem was that the relay wasn't closing properly/sending the 12 volts to the fans.

I think the low voltage side of the relay..the control side..runs through the temp sensor and CPU (computer control) and the purpose of this relay is to protect the CPU unit so I assumed it was the relay and replaced it.. because if it wasn't the relay it was the computer and that's big bucks.

Sounds like you're on the right track replacing the relay. I would check for voltages at the relay to eliminate any fues/fuse links from the equation.

Good luck

thought I would add this to this thread. 92 5th ave. 3.8. Same 30 amp fuse blowing. A new radiator was recently put in. Turns out the smaller of the fans (Driver side) was pinched in shroud and wouldn't turn. Mechanics (used very loosely here) pinched bottom of plastic shroud inside lip of radiator, it needs to be free floating outside radiator lip. Problem solved, in my case anyway. Thanks again to all who post on here. It really is a wealth of information.