95 s-10 doesnt start, no cluster lights

hi, i have 95 s-10 v6 manual. it cranks but doesn't start. check engine, abs, airbag lights doesnt come on when i turn the key on. fuel pump works, but there's no gas and no spark at throttle body. checked all fuses they seem to be good. it has obd2, tried to connect computer to check the codes, but it doesn't connect. dont know what's going on. can it be vcm. help please

did you check for power to the fuse box? even with a bad computer you should still have your cluster lights

any major repairs done where wiring harness may have been knicked/pinched??? Ran into this one time..on s-10 where motor swap had been done, guy knicked the harness, broke one wire. Only difference is there were lights on the instrument panel that were on when the key was out of the vehicle, and should have been off otherwise. more info on what happened just before this started going on would help.

any major repairs done where wiring harness may have been knicked/pinched??? Ran into this one time..on s-10 where motor swap had been done, guy knicked the harness, broke one wire. Only difference is there were lights on the instrument panel that were on when the key was out of the vehicle, and should have been off otherwise. more info on what happened just before this started going on would help.

two days before it died... i changed oil and put some lucas oil stabilizer(truck has 175k), replaced pcv valve, same day on the way home abs and airbag lights came on for couple seconds. later everything was fine...
one day before it died... it started, cold ran for aproximately five seconds and died, later it started maybe from tenth time. drove 50 miles ran fine.
the day it died... it started for couple seconds and died. later maybe in five minutes started again for a second. that was the last one... same day i noticed that check engine, abs and airbag lights doesn't come on when you turn the key on. headlights, turn signals and everything else works(you can see there lights in cluster).
if this descripcion gives any ideas please reply
thanks

how do you know the fuel pump is working fully? check the pressure. i just had almost the same thing happen with my yukon. it would crank but not fire up. i could hear the pump whine when i turned the key on, and when i checked the schrader valve it had pressure, but wouldn't start. i did some online research and found those engines need 60-66 lbs of pressue or the injectors don't open. got a pressure gauge and checked it, and was getting a solid 50 lbs. so even though i had fuel, it wasn't enough to make it work. just an idea.
also, i thought the s10's didn't switch over to obd2 until 96? my 95 sonoma is still obd1

how do you know the fuel pump is working fully? check the pressure. i just had almost the same thing happen with my yukon. it would crank but not fire up. i could hear the pump whine when i turned the key on, and when i checked the schrader valve it had pressure, but wouldn't start. i did some online research and found those engines need 60-66 lbs of pressue or the injectors don't open. got a pressure gauge and checked it, and was getting a solid 50 lbs. so even though i had fuel, it wasn't enough to make it work. just an idea.
also, i thought the s10's didn't switch over to obd2 until 96? my 95 sonoma is still obd1

ill check whats going on with fuel pressure today, but still it doesnt influence cluster lights!!!???
I read a lot about obd 1 and obd2, still i dont really know what i have, because the connector is obd2, but people say that 95 s-10 is obd 1 with obd2 connector(doesn't sound right), i have to check it with delership.

You should have a 10amp fuse39 and a15amp fuse in the fuse panel center. A 20 amp fuse and a 15amp fuse underhood electrical center.ECM A 15amp fuse f/inj underhood electrical center, A Pcm ground lower left front engine trans stud. fuel pump ground under left front seat. A fuel pump relay underhood elect center. I would check fuses and grounds and battery terminals for corrision and tightness.
You can try clutch switch or transmission range switch switch. Foot on brake try to start in neutral.

worked on a '94 corvette that is obd-I, but has the standard connector for obd-II. ANYTHING that is '95 or older is technically obd-I, regardless of connector. It may have a couple features of obd-II, but is still not fully compliant of the standard, so is still obd-I

hi
im still searching for problem, do you know if ecm ignition(number 10) fuse suppose to be hot when you turn key to on position? because mine isn't.

worked on a '94 corvette that is obd-I, but has the standard connector for obd-II. ANYTHING that is '95 or older is technically obd-I, regardless of connector. It may have a couple features of obd-II, but is still not fully compliant of the standard, so is still obd-I

so how can i check the codes ? what should i use?

Depending on your engine size and vin. no. it should be hot at all times or hot in run test or start.
This appears to be a problem area.

How about the radio, does it come on with the key in the run postion?

Sounds like an ignition switch or secondary ignition circuit problem. The primary ignition circuit cranks the engine when the key is turned to the start position bypassing all accesories and lights to lighten the load on the battery. The secondary ignition circuit, when the key is in the run position, is what runs the vehicle and all lights and accesories. The ignition switch may work in the start position but not in the run position.

On an older vehicle like yours the tilt steering joints and multifunction switch are probably about to go too. I changed the whole steering column on my 86 with a salvage yard one. cost me $85 and took about an hour, just make sure you get the keys with it.

How about the radio, does it come on with the key in the run postion?

Sounds like an ignition switch or secondary ignition circuit problem. The primary ignition circuit cranks the engine when the key is turned to the start position bypassing all accesories and lights to lighten the load on the battery. The secondary ignition circuit, when the key is in the run position, is what runs the vehicle and all lights and accesories. The ignition switch may work in the start position but not in the run position.

On an older vehicle like yours the tilt steering joints and multifunction switch are probably about to go too. I changed the whole steering column on my 86 with a salvage yard one. cost me $85 and took about an hour, just make sure you get the keys with it.


is there anything in between fuse box and ignition switch??? my radio is working, starter is spining, etc... but no cluster lights. i guess tomorrow ill spend 75$ on ignition switch and try to do it. but still is wiered because everything gets power except vcu... just one wire...

Start probing in the fuse panel with your voltmeter. Don't be surprised if you find a fuse which should be powered with the ignition switch ON to have no power at either end.

It's not as uncommon as it should be:

http://72.19.213.157/files/FusePanelRepair.jpg

hi
I'm still searching for problem, do you know if ecm ignition(number 10) fuse suppose to be hot when you turn key to on position? because mine isn't.
Yes the #10 fuse, 20 Amp, should have 12V with the key on - this fuse powers all your instrument lights; check engine, abs, airbag, etc, and also the fuel pump, among other things.

About half way through 1995 the S-10 changed over from OBDI to OBD2. (I have a '95 and it's a VCM - OBD2) If you have the VCM under the hood on the passenger side it's OBD2 - if you have the PCM on the inside under the glove box it's OBD1.

Put a 12V jumper wire on the fuel pump test wire and see if the pump runs and if so then check fuel pressure at the schrader valve. Pressure has to be 61 psi or above for the engine to start.