How do I accomplish this? Feels like I have lost most of my assist. All I have done to check this is turn the wheel from left to right with the res. cap off and watched the fluid. Seems to move around alot in there when the wheels going back and forth. Any help would be great!!!

You need to get an p/s pumpo pressure tester mounted in line between the p/s press. line and the pump to test pump output.

Can this be done without taking anything apart? My pump is buried, hard access it seems.

I hear a clunk noise when I turn the wheel all the way to one side or the other. Seems like a bad inner tie rod, can rack gear do that? Could this be pointing more towards the rack?

Without hearing the “clunk” sound from your front end, I can only speculate on what the problem may be. It could be, the upper strut mount bearing, ball joint, inner tie rod or the rack. (less likley):grinyes:

When my PS pump failed, it would steer fine on the highway; however, it would not provide assist when trying to turn in tight quarters. In addition, it would get worse when hot. I thought possibly that the rack was going bad also.

I decided to install a new pump from NAPA (cheaper), to see if that was the culprit and it was. If you change the pump, be sure to bleed out all the old fluid from the rack and PS lines and install new fluid. When I decided to do the job, my personal time was limited, so I took the car to a very good “culturally diverse” shop that installed it for 40 bucks. This was back in June, with temperature in the 90’s. :angryfire I hate working in that kind of weather!:devil:
:cheers:

ok, glad you brought the pump up. But first the rack is where the clunk is coming from, like the inner tie rod maybe. When I turn the wheel back and forth with the car off is when I hear the clunk, at the 9 and 3 postion. Now about the pump, seems like I don't have assist either, highway good, but in slower speeds its not there, sometimes theres a shuddering noise when I turn into a parking spot. I did check the res. on the pump with turning the wheel back and forth and fluid was flowing. Does this help point to the problem? Thanks again!

When a pump begins to wear out, it will loose it’s ability to produce pressure at lower RPM, as it once did. Circulation of the fluid has nothing to do with the pumps ability to generate pressure. The reason you have power assist at highway speeds, is due to the increased engine RPM. Try this; next time when the car is at normal operating temperature, increase the engine RPM while turning in a tight space (while rolling),to see if the power assist improves. Be careful, have your left foot on the brake while trying this maneuver. If the pump will provide assist at higher RPM, and not at idle speeds, replace the pump.:sorry:

I wish I could provide more assistance on the “clunk” sound, however; without hearing, feeling and seeing the noise, it would be counterproductive to try to diagnose that!
:sadwavey:

Sorry about that, I should have explained better. The clunking is more on the right side than the left. When I move the pass. tire left and right/9 and 3, it clunks, like a metal to metal sound. With wife holding steering wheel steady, the pass. side tire has play, if I do the left side there is no movement unless I really put force to it , and when I do the clunk comes from the pass. side. The outer tie rods are good, all new susp. exc. the rack. The rack has black goo all over where it attaches to the steering wheel joint. Seems like an inner tie rod. If it is, is it worth just replacing the tie rod, or better to replace the whole rack? And I tried that test with the pump and I really didn't notice a difference, just stiff. Hope this helps more. Thanks!!!

Well, the choice is entirely yours, whether to replace one inner tie rod ($45.00) or to replace the whole rack ($100.00-200.00), which usually comes with both inner tie rods and a completely rebuilt rack & pinion. :iceslolan

Do you know if you have the Electronic Variable Orifice (EVO) on your pump? Your car could have one, or it may not.

Electronically variable orifice (EVO) steering varies the amount of power steering assist based on electrical inputs to provide the driver with improved road feel at higher speeds, and at the same time providing power assist at lower speeds and during parking maneuvers.

The EVO systems utilize information such as vehicle speed, steering wheel position, and steering-wheel turn rate to calculate and deliver optimum assist to match road conditions.

The EVO system uses a solenoid valve attached directly to the PS system pump’s output fitting or the rack and pinion housing. It is electrically controlled by a digital control signal using pulse width modulation (PWM). By varying the amount of on-time, or duty cycle of the control signal to the solenoid, variable levels of fluid flow and resulting effort levels can be obtained.

Depending on the year and model, various control modules could direct the solenoid. A "dedicated" EVO module was used in the earliest versions of this system. Since that time, however, the electronic-brake and traction-control module (EBTCM) has taken over the responsibilities of VES in most GM products.

I did not know it had the EVO. I will have to look into that and get back to you on that. The only thing I know so far is the rack has 2 lines going to it, not three, and that there is a power steering cooler.