Disassembly of your 99+ Grand Am Interior

Alot of people hav been asking how to remove pieces for painting/cleaning so I thought I'd just write a little "how to" for this.

We'll start with the Dash area first.
You will need a straight slot screwdrivr, a phillips, and a torx bit driver #T25, and a 7mm socket/driver, panel removal tool.
A panel tool is to large for most of the dash pieces, but is good for removing the door panels and pilliar pieces.

When ever prying against the dash you might want to use something against the dash so you dont mark up the finish.

- The radio bezel (http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c242/xeroinfinity/AUTOMOBILES/radiobezelremv.jpg)easily removes with a straight screwdrivr, start on the top right corner. Once its pulled away from the dash far enough to grab ahold of, just pull it off slowly working around the side of the bezel.
Carfully unplug the Hazzard and ETC connection/plugs and the cig lighter plug-in.
The black ring around the ignition will pop out when you remove the bezel.
- To remove the hazzard and ETC buttons (from the radio bezel)takes a 7mm socket, three screws holding them in/on.

- To remove the vents.
I just push the straight sdrivr in around the outter ring, while pulling on the vent fins gently, and working the Sdriver around aiming for the three tabs the hold them in. Vent removal (http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c242/xeroinfinity/AUTOMOBILES/ventremov.jpg).
The tiny vents on the door opening area just pops out easily with a screw driver.
Heres a close up of the vent with its three tabs (http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c242/xeroinfinity/SeCond%20Hand/vent1.jpg).
Here is how/where I masked the vent (http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c242/xeroinfinity/AUTOMOBILES/ventknob.jpg)for paint. No need to paint things that arent seen. Thiers three tabs holding the outter most ring on, remove this if you are painting them.

- The Dimmer switch is removed (http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c242/xeroinfinity/AUTOMOBILES/dimmerremov.jpg)with the straight slot too.
Just slide it under the edge and carefully lift it out.

On the Malibo/cutlass the dimmer has 4 tabs, a pair on top and bottom. Becarefull not to break any of them or the bezel may not stay on properly.

- Same with the door buttons (http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c242/xeroinfinity/AUTOMOBILES/bttonremov.jpg), insert the Sdriver in the top area of the bezel.
Lifting it out and remove the P window connector, the lock/unlock connector, and the p mirror plug if you hav that.
All of the button sections are removable by prying the tabs on the underside of the bezel to release the button(s).
**Sometimes the metal clips that hold these in will fall off and drop inside the door panel, you'll need to remove the bottom of the door panel to retrieve them. I'll post this removal below.

- To remove the door handle surround (http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c242/xeroinfinity/AUTOMOBILES/doorhandleremv.jpg)thiers just 1 phillips screw in each. Pull the door handle open a little to pull the part out/off.

- The shifter piece (http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c242/xeroinfinity/AUTOMOBILES/shiftremov.jpg) removes with the straight slot sdriver.
Slip it under the edge and work you way around while pulling the bezel up. Thiers two plastic tabs on the longest edges(4 total). This only goes On and off one way.

- To remove the cluster surround (http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c242/xeroinfinity/AUTOMOBILES/clusterremv.jpg)you'll need that #T25 torx driver and a 7mm socket and a phillips.
-First remove the part just behind the steering wheel. Thiers three T25 screws on the under side of this part.
Once removed the two halves pull apart like a clam shell(kinda). The top part will come right off, the bottom is tricky because of the tilt lever. it can stay on for the cluster bezel removal.
-Thiers two 7mm bolts(green arrow) down inside. becarefull not to drop them inside the dash, might not get them back :eek: Two phillips screw left holding the bezel in(red arrows). It should pull out and up.

Updated pics of Cluster bezel removal.

Bottom screws (http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c242/xeroinfinity/SeCond%20Hand/screws.jpg)

Driver/remove screw (http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c242/xeroinfinity/SeCond%20Hand/magtip.jpg)

Malibo/Cutlass are a little different but very simular. Tho I think these cluster bezels run acrossed the intire dash held in with clips that pop loose with a panel tool or screw driver.

- Cluster Removal
Once you remove the 4 screws to the cluster, two up on top and two below on the lower dash area.
You'll have to tilt it funky to get it out and then unplug the wire harness connector

- To remove the door panel(s).
First you will hav to remove the buttons to access 1 philips screw that holds the door on, and 1 phillips behind the red reflector lens, the lens pops out(Two tabs one on top and one on the bottom) and the third 1 is at the bottom of the doorhandle.
Using a panel tool, start in the bottom center of the door panel(DP), thiers a wide opening to start at in the center of the panels, and work your way acrossed the bottom and sides.
The drivers DP has the trunk release button on it so dont rip that off to fast, it''ll need unpluged first. And if the buttons for the window/locks are still in the panel, they'll need unpluged or removed.
Heres a pic of the door (http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c242/xeroinfinity/SeCond%20Hand/insidedoor.jpg) with panel removed. Heres the Door panel inside (http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c242/xeroinfinity/AUTOMOBILES/doorpanel1.jpg).

If you hav crank windows either a tool can remove the clip that holds the crank on or a clean rag pulled over the top should pop the clip loose.

On Malibo/Cutlass thiers two screws behind the door handle. They are coverd by a plastic piece, it just prys off.


- The rear coat hooks use that T25 bit also.

--Here are some other pics for some advanced pieces.
This is the drivers window button switch (http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c242/xeroinfinity/AUTOMOBILES/wndwlht1.jpg)with the buttons removed.
They pop off by prying on one of the sides of the buttons bottom where it pivits on the switch.
The clear part is the light emitter, it too is snapped in.
Under it you can see the orange light bulb cover. The black part on the left is a rubber piece thats to keep out water and debrie.

Heres the door lock (http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c242/xeroinfinity/AUTOMOBILES/lightemiter.jpg)for the front door, with the buttons removed.
The green part in the center is for the light, it was white, till I colored it with a sharpie.
From under these two different buttons/switches you can access the bulbs for replacment. Or like I did, remove that orange piece from the light bulbs to change the color.
The piece of the right is the emitter from the driver window buttons.
I had tried to use blu film to change the color but it didnt work or look good.

If thiers anything I missed or links that dont work PM me and I'll fix it.

I tried to cover all N-Bodys here If thiers something you need not dicussed above PM me and I'll see what I can do.

Update on the HVAC Knobs :shakehead

After painting them twice already the paint became sticky,... again.

So if you plan on painting them you should remove that plastic coating,
its not as hard as it looks. :)

- You'll need an exacto knife and a heat gun,
or a bic lighter will work thats what I used.
- Some 400 grit wet sanding paper too.
- Clear coat paint and paint of your choice for the knobs(if you are painting them)
**The heat gun got to hot and I was afraid of melting the knobs.

First heat up any area so it starts to bubble or close to catching fire :evillol:
Toastie (http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c242/xeroinfinity/auto%20odds-ends/hvacnobtoast.jpg), you can see the right knob is toasted, and quite larger then the left one which is about done.

Then start cutting the plastic off, like this (http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c242/xeroinfinity/auto%20odds-ends/hvacrem1.jpg).
After you have cut most off you may need to heat it up again and then you will get to down to here (http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c242/xeroinfinity/auto%20odds-ends/hvac1.jpg).
Still more scrapping (http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c242/xeroinfinity/auto%20odds-ends/hvac3.jpg) is done on this one (http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c242/xeroinfinity/auto%20odds-ends/hvac2.jpg). **Notice I did leave the white transparent stripe. You can mask it off when you paint so it stays transparent.

Then you need to wet sand the plastic to smooth out the scratches and rough spots from cutting.
If you arent painting them then sand them a little more so after you clear coat them they'll look sharp !

Then you should end up with this look (http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c242/xeroinfinity/auto%20odds-ends/hvac4.jpg). OR this (http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c242/xeroinfinity/auto%20odds-ends/hvac6.jpg) if you arent painting them.

After a good bath with soap and water, allow to dry thoroughly before painting or clear coating.

After painting a couple coats hold them up to a light to see it they are covered . Sometimes you'll get pin holes that shine through.

Here are mine almost finished (http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c242/xeroinfinity/auto%20odds-ends/HVACknobs.jpg).
Tomarrow I'll clear coat them and they'll be done.

In thee future I will post the rest of the interior like;
The headliner
the console
the rear deck & speakers
and probly the seats.


I am closing this to keep the file size down.
If you have questions post it or PM me.

Thankx, XI

Thought I'd add some more help, with prep for painting.

I found it best to Wash the parts with a liquid detergent(like dawn) and a scotchbrite pad.
Rising them well, then Lightly wet sanding all the surfaces that would be painted. With the appropriate sand paper for wet sanding.
Then wash and dry them thoroughly.

Used Lots of white masking tape too.

Using light coats is best.
May take 6-10 coats depending on how heavy they are and temprature.

Try not to paint them in full sun.
This will cause overspay and may not produce a desired effect.

Which if you do get runs or fisheyes Leave it !
Let the part dry thoroughly and lightly wet sand the effected area(s), then clean the surface well before touch ups.

After paint has dried for 6-8hrs(or what recomended on the paint or clear coat) You can begin to clear coat everything. 6-8 thin coats, this will help keep the parts shiny and protect the paint from chiping.

Heres are some more finished picks of my GA's.
The SE
The brite SE (http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c242/xeroinfinity/AUTOMOBILES/SEDone1.jpg)

SE radio bezel masked (http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c242/xeroinfinity/AUTOMOBILES/SEyello2.jpg)

POPIN (http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c242/xeroinfinity/AUTOMOBILES/SEyello1.jpg)

The GT
button plate (http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c242/xeroinfinity/AUTOMOBILES/drvbutton.jpg)

GT radio bezel (http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c242/xeroinfinity/AUTOMOBILES/radiodun.jpg)

defrost vent (http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c242/xeroinfinity/AUTOMOBILES/ventsdefrost.jpg)