1997 Aurora--Running very Hot--tried several things __HELP


LarsBars
09-20-2006, 06:05 PM
OK!

Still having problems witht he system getting very hot. Very close to danger zone. This is what I have don to date.

1. Replaced Thermostat, twice.
2. Checked water pump belt (have new one but not replaced) has plenty of tension.
3. Full flush with Prestone Super Flush, including installing the flush kit. So as to flush under pressure and not just draining radiator.
4. Replaced resvoir cap with new one. The old one said 15 PSI. Dealer said the computer calls for 18 PSI.

System builds pressure, (upper and lower hoses bet very stiff when operating temp is reached) so am I ok to assume the water pump is circulating coolant through the system? What about the fans, is there a switch or relay that says when they are supposed to run. They do not seem to run consisitenly when running above normal temps. Would this be enough to get the engine so hot? Please, any input would be greatly appreciated. Have been renting a car for past week to get this done and I am about at wits end.

maxwedge
09-20-2006, 06:55 PM
Gets hot driving, at idle, do the hoses get hard very soon after starting? Are you loosing any coolant?

LarsBars
09-20-2006, 06:57 PM
Gets hot driving, at idle, do the hoses get hard very soon after starting? Are you loosing any coolant?


Gets hot driving quicker, but gets hot at idle too.

Hoses get hard at or near operating temp.

Not loosing any coolant, if I am it is not noticeable.

Chris Stewart
09-20-2006, 11:59 PM
Do the hoses get tight while the motor is still cold?

LarsBars
09-21-2006, 12:03 AM
Do the hoses get tight while the motor is still cold?

Hoses get tight when at or near normal operating temperature. The fans come on high at or above 240 degrees(with A/C off). However they seem to be intermitment, they don't stay on until the engine is cooler. They seem to cycle on and off.

GTP Dad
09-21-2006, 08:41 AM
It sounds like you may have air in the system. Getting hot quickly like that even at idle indicates there is a problem with the coolant circulating. Try opening the bleeder screw on the top of the thermostat housing and see if you get air or coolant. If you get air continue to bleed until all the air is out. Also make sure to turn the heater on high while doing this. Sometimes air gets trapped in the heater core and causes these issues.

LarsBars
09-21-2006, 02:49 PM
Just ran a test.

Outside temp is 65.

Engine cold, not ran since yesterday.

Started car and let idle, and it took 17 minutes to reach 200. Then it took another 10 minutes to reach just below the next white line. Where it has been holding for 30minutes. Does this sound like a normal amount of time?

Water pump tensioner can be moved with little effort. Two fingers on a 6" socket handle. This seems too easy.

Do not see a bleeder screw near the thermostat. any one got a pic of this?

fear reborn
09-29-2006, 05:18 AM
Our cars run hot, Running on the highway mine stays at about 200. Sitting in traffic it will reach 225-230 before fans kick on. We have a aluminum block with no grill and cramped engine bay. It's normal as long as it dose not get over 230.

LarsBars
09-29-2006, 08:10 AM
Our cars run hot, Running on the highway mine stays at about 200. Sitting in traffic it will reach 225-230 before fans kick on. We have a aluminum block with no grill and cramped engine bay. It's normal as long as it dose not get over 230.


Understood, That is what it used to do. But now it has been going over the 230 mark. and on several times just below the red danger marks.

I never did find a bleeder valve. But have tried to bleed through cap. Car seem to be holding at 200. But have not been up any big hills etc.

kiway22
10-03-2006, 01:49 AM
Is your fan coming on around 220 degrees???

tjm
10-03-2006, 09:14 AM
your thermostat isnt installed backwards is it? your anti-freeze is mixed 50% with water, right?

#1 - be sure all the air deflectors are in place under the car, then...

#2 - be sure you dont have a plastic bag or other debris up in front of the radiator, then...

#3 - replace sendy, then...

#4 - do a compression check to test for head gasket failure, then...

#5 - replace radiator

LarsBars
10-03-2006, 02:24 PM
Is your fan coming on around 220 degrees???

disconnected the coolant level sensor and fan come on at 190 degrees.

LarsBars
10-03-2006, 02:33 PM
your thermostat isnt installed backwards is it? your anti-freeze is mixed 50% with water, right?

#1 - be sure all the air deflectors are in place under the car, then...

#2 - be sure you dont have a plastic bag or other debris up in front of the radiator, then...

#3 - replace sendy, then...

#4 - do a compression check to test for head gasket failure, then...

#5 - replace radiator

No the thermostat was replaced in the same manner as that was in there and yes coolant mixed to 50/50.

Bought new deflectors and have replaced. Airflow to radiator is clear of obstructions. What is sendy?

About a week ago I flushed the system again. And put new 50/50 mix in again. As car got near operating temperature release the coolant tank cap to let air out. Repeated this several times.

I have been driving the car on short neighorhood trips and the car has been holding right at 200 degrees.:p

Then today i take it for a longer trip, about 15 miles. Almost all down hill on the way there. Still holding right at 200. Then on the way home there is a steep hill, about 14 degree incline. Car goes right up the hill as it should. But as I crest the hill temp goes up quick. Warning hot turn A/C off comes on. A/C was not on. Pull the car over, turn heat on, and rev the car to about 2300 rpm. Temp goes down just as quick as it cam up. Only half way home. The temp did not drop back to 200 but closer to 225. And seemed to hold there, untill just about onto my street, and the temp starts to go up again. This is driving me nuts.

ghutchin
10-03-2006, 03:10 PM
Maybe you have an intermittant problem with one of your fans or the fan relays.
Is it possible with our cars to see if the fans are running? I've never checked.

LarsBars
10-03-2006, 03:16 PM
Yes you can not only see them but hear them. They come on low speed when you turn the A/C on. When the temp get hot they come on at high speed.

ghutchin
10-03-2006, 04:03 PM
Have you checked to see if they are running, when your overheating. I assume so...but just checking

I would do a compression test then.

kiway22
10-03-2006, 05:22 PM
I am beginning to suspect the water pump. If your thermstat is working properly. At normal operating temperature, does the top radiator hose( I think thats the supply hose) get hot???. Don't get your fingers too close to those fans. The manual says they can come on with the engine off.

LarsBars
10-03-2006, 05:42 PM
I am beginning to suspect the water pump. If your thermstat is working properly. At normal operating temperature, does the top radiator hose( I think thats the supply hose) get hot???. Don't get your fingers too close to those fans. The manual says they can come on with the engine off.


Top hose is Very Hot and Bottom hose is luke warm at operating temperature.

protek22
10-04-2006, 02:54 PM
You've seemed to check for everything except an internal combustion leak. This could be a minute head gasket breach, not necessarily a full blown failure. This starts out as overheating especially upon acceleration, with little or no coolant loss, but in advanced stages, you'd have overheating at any speed, with noticeable coolant loss. The best way to check for this would be to do a "block check" test. This is a chemical test, done at the coolant resevoir. You can get a DIY kit from NAPA auto stores for about $50.00, or a good mechanic or dealership, should be able to do this. If the test is negative, you've dodged a major bullet. If the test is positive, you may be looking at engine replacement.

tjm
10-05-2006, 12:52 PM
likely the best link I have seen regarding cooling system troubleshooting
http://www.troubleshooters.com/tpromag/200204/200204.htm

kiway22
10-05-2006, 10:09 PM
If the head gaskets were leaking, seems like oil would show up in the water or vise versa. Just my 2 cents worth. If the top hose gets hot, seems like the coolant is circulating.

protek22
10-06-2006, 08:57 AM
If the head gaskets were leaking, seems like oil would show up in the water or vise versa. Just my 2 cents worth. If the top hose gets hot, seems like the coolant is circulating.


In northerstar powered vehicles, headgasket issues are often due to loose headbolts. If this is indeed the problem, no oil will be seen in the coolant, nor vice versa.

Eddypro
01-17-2007, 11:28 PM
I've a 99 Aurora and was having similar problems. It would run hot, but not all the time. Driving to Florida (from Michigan) I had an overheat in Georgia, pulled over... let it cool... checked things out... no problems again until I got back to Michigan.

I found that the front valence (? the black plastic under the front end) had come disconnected. I was guessing that at highway speeds the wind would catch it just right and block off air flow. I fixed valence (resnapped it all back into the proper place) and have had no problems for well over 8 months now.

LarsBars
01-17-2007, 11:33 PM
Thought I had posted remedy here.

Mine ended up being a blown head gasket. There was about an 1/8 gap in the gasket. All fixed and running great.

Hesam
01-19-2007, 02:13 AM
Most of the times, Aurora overheat is not from cooling system but it's from imperfect engine tuneup.
My 95 Aurora had 15-17mpg mileage and hesitation and overheat, then I changed the Catalytic Converter ($170) changed 2 older coils from the 4 coilpack+ bought a set of 8 NGK irridium spark plugs ($28), and 8 Borg-Warner spark plug wires (Don't listen to dealers' recommendation of using GM parts).
Since these got done, I've been having smoooooth running engine, 25.3mpg freeway 21 city mileage and car is always cool other than a minor heat at extended slow traffics.
Start with catalytic converter. Then NGK irridiums, then coils, then wires.

ghutchin
01-19-2007, 09:37 AM
Hesam,

How did you know which coil packs to change?

dflip
02-11-2007, 12:58 PM
Did U Perform A Coolant System Pressure Test?

dflip
02-11-2007, 01:01 PM
If Your Losing Pressure With No External Leaks Its One Of Two Things Intake Or Head Gaskets. Your Car Definately Has The Symptoms

LarsBars
02-11-2007, 01:02 PM
Did U Perform A Coolant System Pressure Test?


Yes. When I did it was good. Replaced cap anyway, wouldn't have mattered anyway since it was the head gasket.

LarsBars
02-11-2007, 01:04 PM
If Your Losing Pressure With No External Leaks Its One Of Two Things Intake Or Head Gaskets. Your Car Definately Has The Symptoms


It was the head gaskets. Replaced a few months ago and now running great.

billysandra
03-26-2007, 02:56 PM
I have read almost everything on over heating on the Aurora. My question is I see one of my electric fans running but just one. Do the fans come on at different times or are they designed to come on together?

LarsBars
03-26-2007, 03:13 PM
I have read almost everything on over heating on the Aurora. My question is I see one of my electric fans running but just one. Do the fans come on at different times or are they designed to come on together?


They should come on together at the same time.

apollo7879
03-26-2007, 10:30 PM
The coolant fans have two speeds, depending on temp, vehicle speed, A/C press,etc.

Low speed: Right side fan runs at high speed, left side at a lower speed.
High speed: Both fans run at high speed.

95supreme
03-26-2007, 10:49 PM
Quote:
"I have read almost everything on over heating on the Aurora. My question is I see one of my electric fans running but just one. Do the fans come on at different times or are they designed to come on together?"

They do not come on together. The second fan kicks in when the A/C is running.

I have a question, did you check the oil level on the car? Does the engine consume oil? I had that problem on my Cutlass Supreme. The car just consumed oil (all gaskets were replaced, and the coolant system was fine). I bought some slick 50 oil treatment for older engines with high km's on them. It greatly reduced the oil consumption in the engine, and in turn it ran about 10 degrees cooler too!

WILL9390
05-22-2008, 11:38 PM
My 1997 OLDSMOBILE AURORA only runs hot when the outside temperature is 84 degrees and above. I drive 105 miles one to work and in the mornings when the outside temperature is 76 degrees and below my engine runs normal from 160 to 200 degrees. When I leave work in the afternoon with the outside temperature 85 degrees and above get about 25 miles down the Hwy and the engine runs hot and boil all the water out of the reservoir. I replaced the radiator, water pump, thermostat, upper and lower radiator hoses, reservoir bottle cap and water pump pulley belt. I flush the system and when the outside temperature is 85 degrees and above te engine still runs hot. Can anyone help me.

Hesam
05-23-2008, 12:06 AM
My 1997 OLDSMOBILE AURORA only runs hot when the outside temperature is 84 degrees and above. I drive 105 miles one to work and in the mornings when the outside temperature is 76 degrees and below my engine runs normal from 160 to 200 degrees. When I leave work in the afternoon with the outside temperature 85 degrees and above get about 25 miles down the Hwy and the engine runs hot and boil all the water out of the reservoir. I replaced the radiator, water pump, thermostat, upper and lower radiator hoses, reservoir bottle cap and water pump pulley belt. I flush the system and when the outside temperature is 85 degrees and above te engine still runs hot. Can anyone help me.

Answer:

Most of the time, in Aurora cars, the overheating is caused by imperfect firing/spark, bad fuel mixture and exhaust blockage. To cure all for good :
1. change your catalytic converter every 70k miles, and if you have over 100k miles and still using the original converter thats your overheat problem.
2. Change your spark-plugs with NGK-Irridium plus and also get Borg-Warner wireset online.
3. Replace any of your 4 coils in the coilpack behind the engine that looks older. Changing all 4 gives long life to your car.
I did all 3 above, afterwards my car ran better than new, with more smooth power, cool and gave 24-25mpg (freeway) 21mpg(city) compared to 15-17mpg before.
Just to give you an idea of the cost:
#1 costs $160-$180
#2 costs $50 for plugs and about $112 for BWD (Borg Warner) wires
#3 about $50 per coil, $200 for set of 4(lasts for 70,000 miles)
If you ask me the cost is worth it because Auroras last for 250,000 miles under proper care. Make sure you only use Full-Synthetic oil and supreme unleaded fuel.
Good Luck
Hesam:smile:

BNaylor
05-30-2008, 10:19 AM
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