|
|
finishing up headgasket job 2 questionsatv087 09-18-2006, 10:43 PM how tight should the timing belt be? and the plastic bleed screw on the radiator is broken off and was filled with epoxy i scraped out as much as i could how i can i get the remaining part of the plastic screw out so i can put the new one i have in? ShadeTreeBill 09-30-2006, 11:28 AM The timing belt should be "tightened" only by the pressure of the spring on the timing belt tensioner. In other words, you should not push on the tensioner to artificially apply extra tension to the belt. But, of course, it isn't just that simple. First, get the belt on. Then loosen the tensioner adjusting bolt, and let the spring push the tensioner against the belt. Then tighten the tensioner adjust bolt. Then take a wrench to the crankshaft and rotate the crankshaft two complete revolutions clockwise as you look at it from the front of the vehicle. This is best done with no spark plugs installed so you don't have to fight the compression in the cylinders. This also assumes you have properly aligned the marks on the Crankshaft and the Cam Sprocket before installing the timing belt. If this has not been done, do not force the crankshaft, this will bend a valve..! (Follow the instructions in the manual to get the cylinder one set to Top Dead Center, and then set the Cam shaft sprocket to its mark, install the belt, then turn the crank shaft....) If all is aligned properly the Crank/Cam should turn with only moderate torque required... Now back to the tensioning.... after you rotate the crank shaft two complete revolutions...(CW from the front) (the cam shaft will be turning also) loosen the tensioner adjust bolt again and let the spring push the tensioner against the timing belt. This is the final "tension" adjustment for the timing belt.... As to getting the plastic screw out of the radiator, there is a thing called a screw extractor... availalble in sets like drill bits at the hardware store.... this is basically a bit like thing with reverse spirals on it. You drill a hole down the middle of the screw, and then use the screw extractor to "unscrew" the screw shaft from down in the hole. It goes into the hole you drill, turn it CCW and the reverse spirals "bite" into the hole walls to grip it and unscrew it.... Good Luck! atv087 10-27-2006, 10:18 PM after all that was done the car lasted almost a month and there was a cracked block which i never noticed when i did the head gasket and it blew the motor but i got a new motor with 11k miles for 750$ shipped to my house and i will have it tomarow for my new project. moral of the story check everything with precision dont overlook anything. ShadeTreeBill 10-27-2006, 10:25 PM Man, that's tough... I hate those "lessons well learned". Sounds like you got a deal on the replacement motor though... let me know how the swap out goes! atv087 10-28-2006, 12:58 AM it shouldnt be too hard i plan on finishing my work for the week tomarow and sunday and starting on it monday since its going to rain tomarow. Ill let you know how it turns out. maybe ill finally have a nice idle. btw thanks for all your help with my posts. atv087 10-28-2006, 01:00 AM also the replacement motor has all the accessories on it i hope its the same its from a 89 525i and i could have baught the whole car for 1400$ delivered to my house. but i didnt need any other parts. vBulletin®, Copyright ©2009, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Automotive Network, Inc., Copyright ©2009
|