Power doors do not Unlock-Venture Van 2002


jrees
09-15-2006, 11:58 AM
I can lock the doors from the inside with the door lock button on the driver's and passenger doors. However, when I push the unlock button (on either door), I get no repsonse (not even a click). Fuses, relays seem to all be working. To open the doors, I have to manually open or hit the remote unlock button. Need help to fix.........:banghead:

GregA
09-15-2006, 01:38 PM
I can lock the doors from the inside with the door lock button on the driver's and passenger doors. However, when I push the unlock button (on either door), I get no repsonse (not even a click). Fuses, relays seem to all be working. To open the doors, I have to manually open or hit the remote unlock button. Need help to fix.........:banghead:
Since the remote unlocks the doors, your Body Control Module (BCM) should be OK.

So I would "guess" that the wiring between the switches and the BCM has a problem. I have some more information in this page (http://www.my-chevy-venture.com/other-information.html) (look a few lines down from the top).

I hope this helps.

Take Care,

'97ventureowner
09-15-2006, 03:50 PM
Mine's been doing that for a few years. I found that if I repeatedly hit the unlock and lock buttons from either front driver or passenger doors the lock eventually "unlocks".

edsut
09-30-2006, 04:50 PM
Just fixed this problem yesterday (thanks to some other person's forum posting, plus my own diags using info from alldatadiy.com)...
If NOTHING (left button, right button, remote keypad) unlocks the door, then the problem is certainly not in any of those mechanisms, its at a point that is common to all of them. Your problem is likely to be the same as mine, and quite easy to fix...
In the wiring splices under the carpet on the front passenger side of the van floor.
Turns out that there's an AC drain tube that leaks under the carpet and apparently causes corrosion to any splices in the area... So, open the passenger door, remove the plastic sill plate (just pull up on it), and lift up the carpet. You'll probably find that the underside of the carpet is wet. There's a load of wires wrapped up under the carpet there. Remove the tape and search for the 'white' wire. Or, you can just look for two splices (one is for lock (blue), one is for unlock (white)). I almost guarantee you that you'll find this splice to be loose or broken. Just re-do that splice and your lock will probably work. It fixed mine!!
Good luck

Barberryn
10-26-2006, 07:20 PM
Right on Edsut.
My power locks were behaving the same way. Bought the Haynes service manual for my "98 Venture" and using their wiring diagrams proved switches were OK. Was getting partial voltages to feed switches and was almost to go to the Dealer to buy a Body Control Module (BCM).
Stumbled across this Fantastic forum and the rest as they say is History. I took the ten minutes and lifted the "appeared to be dry" carpet to find it totally soaked underneath. Who knew it was lined with sponge foam. Several towels later I had that mess cleaned up and checked the wiring harness. It looked in like new condition but as I was looking at a huge bill for a BCM, I unwrapped the tape and found both the white and blue tri splice about 2/3rds of the way forward from the seat to the base of the firewall. I opened the "looking good duck tape splice protector" to find no connection. Only some green dust where the wire ends used to be. (Insert your own GM curse list here!) Once I sniped and skinned, soldered and sealed the wires back together the locks worked great.

Tip. I coated and let cure some silicon sealant or gasket maker on the solder joints, before electrial taping, to keep water out of the joints again.

Being curious I peeled back more tape moving forward and found two more splices. A large gauge (12) brown one was rotton but not broken yet,just due to it's size. Redid. Continued up about a foot past the "fork" and found a dark blue splice on the left branch but it was in great shape. Water did not get up that high. Moving aft I stripped back to the intersection at the passenger seat mount. Found another splice on a fine Black/White stripe wire (located right at this aft intersection) that was dissolved as well. I have no idea what this wire does as I cannot find it on any of my drawings but it is fixed now.

All this took about an hour in the driveway. Cost about 50 cents for the solder and some silicon and tape.

Thanks Edsut and GregA for all the great help.

This is my first post as I am New to this site. Sorry it's long. Just bought a "98 Venture, loaded. Type 4 BCM. It was cheap as alot of stuff was broken. In the last week I fixed Power locks, power windows, drivers power seat, wipers parking vertical and reprogramed the BCM to get the anti theft working and reactivated the theft lock radio. All from the helpful info at this site. Saved a fortune, I'm sure. Thanks again All.

edsut
10-26-2006, 07:52 PM
Great news! Glad someone else benefitted from this post.
I also worked forward and found the much heavier guage splice. It, being
so thick, was ok. I didn't work backward though, so I'll have to reopen that
area and see if I have the same issue with the black/white striped wire.

So, onto the next problem... my passenger side "automatic" sliding door
doesn't work. Similar kind of symptom. Doesn't work from ANY of the buttons. Hey, maybe it's the black/white striped wire! That would be sweet!
I also heard that there is some kind of recall for the door, so I gotta check
with the dealer on that.

Do me a favor and post any news on your Venture here. We can all share
in the misery and also share in the repairs!!
Later

Barberryn
10-27-2006, 12:40 PM
No Problem.

BTW, my power passenger sliding door is off line as well. I have not tried to reinitalize it following my wiring repairs but it might be worth a try. It will not function from any "switch" but I do hear a faint click from the right side wall (control module and power actuator is in their) when either the overhead or door post buttons are hit.

As promised , If I figure anything out -good or bad- I'll let you all know.

cjstew4
10-27-2006, 03:53 PM
Great news! Glad someone else benefitted from this post.
I also worked forward and found the much heavier guage splice. It, being
so thick, was ok. I didn't work backward though, so I'll have to reopen that
area and see if I have the same issue with the black/white striped wire.

So, onto the next problem... my passenger side "automatic" sliding door
doesn't work. Similar kind of symptom. Doesn't work from ANY of the buttons. Hey, maybe it's the black/white striped wire! That would be sweet!
I also heard that there is some kind of recall for the door, so I gotta check
with the dealer on that.

Do me a favor and post any news on your Venture here. We can all share
in the misery and also share in the repairs!!
Later

Definitely first go and do the reset procedure in the manual where you have to remove/re-insert the fuse in the under hood fise box with a few other steps. If that still does not do it, check for the recall anyway which will realign/set closure proximity of the door when in 'power sliding mode.' If you cannot find the reset steps, go to the numerous posts in this forum on auto sliding door, and proceed from there. On my '97 with 80k miles on it, did the reset thing, recall once, reset procedure numerous times for about 3 years (at least 1/month), until the control module in the pass side rear inside panel failed and needs to be replaced according to the dealer. Part was $280 in 2003 plus 2 hrs install. It is funny how they round up the hours when quoting. Needless to say, I am still using the door in unpowered mode, keeping it well-lubed when I can get the red extender tube from my spray lube near the numerous and well-hidden track rollers. I plan on hitting the salvage yard to pick up a used control module and hopefully that lasts until I dump this thing which outside of the rebulit tranny, new head and intake gaskets, t-stat, radiator, rear leveling shocks, it is still less than car payments.

cjstew4
10-27-2006, 03:55 PM
No Problem.

BTW, my power passenger sliding door is off line as well. I have not tried to reinitalize it following my wiring repairs but it might be worth a try. It will not function from any "switch" but I do hear a faint click from the right side wall (control module and power actuator is in their) when either the overhead or door post buttons are hit.

As promised , If I figure anything out -good or bad- I'll let you all know.

That click will definitely go away after numerous reset attempts and the control module needs to be replaced, etc.. See below.

Definitely first go and do the reset procedure in the manual where you have to remove/re-insert the fuse in the under hood fise box with a few other steps. If that still does not do it, check for the recall anyway which will realign/set closure proximity of the door when in 'power sliding mode.' If you cannot find the reset steps, go to the numerous posts in this forum on auto sliding door, and proceed from there. On my '97 with 80k miles on it, did the reset thing, recall once, reset procedure numerous times for about 3 years (at least 1/month), until the control module in the pass side rear inside panel failed and needs to be replaced according to the dealer. Part was $280 in 2003 plus 2 hrs install. It is funny how they round up the hours when quoting. Needless to say, I am still using the door in unpowered mode, keeping it well-lubed when I can get the red extender tube from my spray lube near the numerous and well-hidden track rollers. I plan on hitting the salvage yard to pick up a used control module and hopefully that lasts until I dump this thing which outside of the rebulit tranny, new head and intake gaskets, t-stat, radiator, rear leveling shocks, it is still less than car payments.

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