93 P/Ave. Service Engine Soon Light

AutoZone scan the 'SES', said it was a code 43 Spark Ignition Module. Replace it still get SES lite. Replace plugs, wires also. When I'm driving a few miles, the car go 'kachunk' for a second then the lite goes off. After a while it will do it again, then the lite comes back on. Car ran fine after each incident. I have replace the battery and alternator. Now it must be down to the cam sensor or crank sensor I'm I correct?

Have you checked the codes since replacing the ICM to see if you still get code 43? Crank or cam sensor would normally throw a code 41; however, not every hiccup will set a code. You should also inspect the cam magnet located in the cam gear & behind the cam sensor, to see if the magnet is still in place and in good condition. (More info in the link below) Usually, when you have this problem, it is better to install a new timing set & magnet. More work, but if you have over 100K on the car, it would be a wise investment! How many miles on this car?
Cam magnet replacement (http://6007.us/cammag.htm)

I did have experience with a similar problem (94',140Kmi).
However, my codes were Camshaft code 41. But ,the Crankshaft sensor fixed it. Luckily I did get codes but not the proper sensor reported. :screwy:

If you replaced the module and it still shows the same code it is maybe that the problem is wiring (grounds, return report and control lines to PCM) and not specifically the Camshaft or Crankshaft sensor circuit. I think the new good new IM actually would better report those sensors as best it can.

Apparently there is a sense for the Ignition Module(IM) status and it is noting problems back to the PCM and with that wiring could be in suspect.
There are 4 connectors of interest. IM connector to mid engine top connector, Top to firewall connector, firewall to PCM connector.
Grounds too are of interest under the IM but it proubbly was messed with when the IM was replaced and not highly suspect.

By the way, if you go on with it, the camshaft sensor is much easier than the Crankshaft sensor to replace. A bit of a blind reach but accessable.

Good luck.

AutoZone check again and it gave the same guy a code 43 & sensor on the screen. It did not say which sensor. He show me the screen! I haven't replace the cam sensor yet. The SES comes and go's. I will try to replace the cam sensor maybe this weekend. I have to help my brother change someone heater core in there Ford Sable. I did my daughters this summer and boy did it suck to do that in a 95 Taurus. The engineer who design that car should be shot! You have to remove the whole dash to replace a heater core!

Napa say a cam sensor cost $26 or $32 for the better one! What gives? AutoZone say $19 and they only have one kind! Anyone have any input on this?

Taiwan vs American maybe?

Actually, the crank sensor would more likely to make the car go 'kachunk” than the cam sensor. :iceslolan It could be that code 43 is indicating a loss of the CPS signal through the ICM :confused:. If it was the cam magnet or sensor, it might go “'kachunk” “kachunk” “kachunk”:rofl:

Everyone seems to be inclined to do the, “easier one first".:cwm27:

Quality varies with price. Remember, “you get what you pay for”!:nono:

Agree with HotZ....
My 94 Service Manual says you can pull the camsaft sensor connector off and run it but I think the intention is if its shorted or something causing it to really mess with the ICM. . .. I havent tried it but maybe a drive about with it disconnected. Service manual says you can run it that way but didnt say much about driving it.

IF it still goes Kerchunk!.. My opinion camshaft proubbly is not the problem.. the replacement is easy. Almost too easy not to try anyway but your out the $25 approx.

THe ICM doesnt use many inputs. Im thinking just Cam and Crankshaft and if its replaced...
Other experiences (posts) have weighed heavily on Crankshaft, and then Camshaft and then someone had a bad connector to the module.. in that order.. ONe really wierd one was the harmonic balaner was replaced with a aftermarket CHINA one and it really caused a difficult troubleshoot all the way back to the harmonic balancer but the problem was consistent and not drivable.
(I think the harmonic balancer really just a wheel with internal code notches, not really a balancer but easier to call it that for recognition.)

Good LUCK.

My car is a 92 p/a sorry! I changed the cam sensor, but still have the SES light on ALL the time now! How hard is it to change the 'crank sensor'? I read in a Chilton manual you need to measure 0.025 between interrupter and what? Manual said it call a 'dual sensor switch like a Hall switch'. Is it that hard to replace?

Its not too bad with the proper tools.

Remove the tire.
Getting the balancer wheel bolt off is the biggest hump.. kindof factory tight..Recommendations have been to bump the starter with a breakover & socket on the bolt. Others have recommended removing the starter and wedging the gears to hold the starter flywheel. Then a good impact wrench.

A wheel puller also is needed for the balancer wheel. usually borrowed from Autozone or someplace.
Some have recommended putting a rubber band on the wheel to set the clearance to the sensor. Tighten the sensor and remove the rubber band. If the sensor rubs after assembly you will have to do it over again.

Then reverse assemble.

Good Luck


.

Went AZ yesterday. Had them re-scan the code. The guy said it was a 'MAF' sensor code and/or electrical problem! Go figure!:banghead:

The following codes apply to your car and could help point to the problem, if we only knew what the code actually is! (Not what AZ thinks it is:nono:)

See if you can get the actual codes, without AZ’s interruption of the code.:ylsuper:
Code:
17) Spark Reference Circuit
18) Cam/Crank Error
34) Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF) Circuit
41) Cam Sensor Circuit
42) Electronic Spark Timing (EST) Circuit
43) Electronic Spark Control (ESC) Circuit

Can I 'jumper' the OBD1 connector to read the 'flashing' code?

Can I 'jumper' the OBD1 connector to read the 'flashing' code?
Yes:iceslolan

my crank sensor has been LOOSE for a few months now. It makes a horrific rattling sound, but still hasnt broken off or thrown any codes yet <knock on wood>. I took it in to get it replaced, but the guys at the shop couldnt get the crankshaft bolt off. I havent been driving much lately so ive ignored the problem. Im probably going to get a new car soon anyways. Im planning on parting out my 91 pa ultra. anybody need a nice 3800 with 100k miles, 10k wear on timing chain/gears and water pump? transmission with 40k miles wear?

heheheh

its been a great car though. drove it round trip atlanta to kansas city 1600 miles during the summer.

I wouldn't think you could see a loose Crankshaft sensor, or even run with it.
Besides I think they have a .o25 tolerance to the wheel.
I think it was hiding under the balancer wheel.

Anyway, that darn bold is quite factory tight..
Some have put a breakover bar n' socket on it and bumped the starter..
Others have secured the engine via the starter sprocket and used a good big impact wrench.
Then your down to the pulling of the wheel with a wheel puller.
$60 for the part..$140 labor.. approx..




Good Luck