Build my car up!

Just like the title says. 99 Grand Am SE 3.4L with 168,000 miles. I haven't replaced anything except the alternator I cooked with my sound system, the AC compressor, and the timing belt just about a month ago. So here we go:

I'm going to start upgrading the cheaper stuff. I already have a cold air intake, so that will stay for a while.

What I'm looking for next is parts that AREN'T STOCK, and ARE BETTER THAN STOCK, but yet aren't ridiculously expensive. Suggestions for:

Exhaust System and required parts
Spark Plugs
Struts
Wheels
Tires
Supercharger (if they even exist without custom build)
Strut Bars
etc. etc. etc....

Anyone that can list a good blob of things I can upgrade that will improve my hp, speed, handling, and all that fun stuff please post here with links and everything. I want to have a unique grand am for my area :) So far most of the stuff I've looked at is from Auto Accessories Giant, but I have a feeling there are better deals out there. Even if you comment on just one thing it's cool. Thanks guys!

For starters we hav a thread here where we hav listed several places where you can find aftermarket parts.
heres that Link (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=502706).

Their are lots of stuff out there but a lot of its expensive as hell!

Exhaust- thiers SLP(around $480) & Borla(around $650-700) Custom pricless :D (around $250-300).

Parts for your car (http://www.pfyc.com/store/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=PFYC&Category_Code=GA) has good products and not bad on prices.

I think theirs only KYB(notkillyourboss) aftermarket struts.

Z-spec (aka RSM) (http://www.z-spec.com/catalog.htm) they hav superchargers.... Around $4500 ! :eek7: Their are turbo systems too, they are listed on that first link, around the same price. I would go turbo! :thumbsup:

Check ebay on strut bars, Z-spec has them(along with several other sites) but their stuff is pricy :-/
I bought a Pair on ebay for under $100.

Since you already hav a CAI, I'd get an exhaust Modification!!!
If you hav the $$ headers are really nice too, with a larger exhaust it'll free up quite a few ponies.
http://www.ssheaders.com/V6.htm (http://www.ssheaders.com/V6.htm) has them, cant remember how much tho.

Another thing, down the road in the near future You probly should consider changing your head/intake gaskets, since you hav 168k, it wouldnt hurt any, but maybe your wallet :D

So just go to an exhaust shop and go "build me an exhaust" and they'll be like "k" ??? Wouldn't I then need to buy a muffler and headers and things like that? Or the stainless steel pipes for them to make the exhaust?

BTW, what about spark plugs?

A muffler shop should carry most suplies to make an exhaust.

I am using the Flowmaster 80 series#42583.

Not all shops carry all makes and models of mufflers though.
2.5 inch pipe from the converter back to the muffler is a good size with a good sound.
That flowmaster has 1 inlet and dual 2.5" outs, so you can hav duals out the back :cool:
Other companies do make mufflers that are simular.
Should be several pipe shops around where you live.

On plugs, I stick with AC Delco's Iridiums, they last along time, and dont faul out easy.
Several options on the wires, most people just stick with GMs wires , any high quality 8mm wire is good though.

btw- headers run around $600. I paid $750 years ago, a real pain in the a**(pita) to put on :banghead:

Flowmaster's website says that muffler is for firebirds... doesn't say anything about grand ams. Does it still work anyway?

Also, I'd need to get a high-flow catalytic converter... any ideas? What other parts from the headers back?

Thx for being a big help :)

you want to make sure that what you're building on isnt going to crap all over ur face =p

take steps ahead before modifications,

So far ive replaced every single coolant hose, new AC Delco Iridium plugs (local auto shop, $4.90/plug... Taylor Spiro Pro wires 8mm (from pfyc.com) <-- good combo, burns clean... You might want to look into changing your fluids a bit... start running some synthetic engine oil... I use Mobile 1 Extended Performance .. think its like 30w or w/e ... ill take a look later. Also look into using Royal Purple Max ATF for your transmission fluid, I did this job on my transmission due to the hard shifts in the DHP PCM, helped it out... so it wasnt such a harsh change on the trans... the job cost me about $140. went to my local kwik kar place... and had them order up a few quarts of the stuff from a local shop... and all you NEED TO DO is a simple trans filter change ... it'll drain fluid .. new filter =p new cherry lookin synthetic in the trans .. give it about 2 weeks before going balls out lol

Flowmaster's website says that muffler is for firebirds... doesn't say anything about grand ams. Does it still work anyway?

Also, I'd need to get a high-flow catalytic converter... any ideas? What other parts from the headers back?

Thx for being a big help


That muffler is a universal one, fits many cars and trucks.
On our GAs it sets sideways in the back, like the stocker.
Look at PFYC.com and see their SLP kit, it uses the Flowmaster 80series.

:uhoh: I forget what highflow cat I'm using, they can be pricey tho.
IMO You dont hav to use a highflow cat, its not nessesary unless you hav headers. Wont even see/feel that much of a gain for the $$$.

And as Gir said trany filter & fluid change is always good. OUr manuals state they are to be changed every 50kmiles, most dont get that change till around 100k.
Even your brake fluid is supossed to be changed out at 30k mile intervals :lol: who has done this one :dunno: :D

My SE is running on all synthetics, power steering, trans, engine oil, dexcool, and I hav even exchanged the brake fluid a couple times as required :P

If you need anything else just ask :D

I'm going to go get a tune-up next time I'm home. I'll see about all those replacements :)

Then I'll do spark plugs/wires and strut bars I think.

Then exhaust maybe.

http://search.ebay.com/search/search.dll?cgiurl=http%3A%2F%2Fcgi.ebay.com%2Fws%2 F&fkr=1&from=R8&satitle=borla+grand+am&category0=

If I want to go broke I can buy this Borla exhaust kit, but what else am I going to need? Can I use my stock cat converter or no?

:) Thanks a bunch guys.

Yea the Stock Cat still stays when you replace the new exhaust it replaces from the cat all the way to the back

speakin of building the car up yo Xero and Gir would puttin new ported manifolds show and improvement in performance cuz im thinkin of pickin it up and i just wanted to knnow if it adds any horses or actually what it really does.... and Gir i know you know alot bout that PCM u got is PFYC.com better than Milzysmotorsport.com PCM or are they the same and would your guys prefer lowering the car or gettin the chip ???

Ya kinda Jmoney.
My SE has the upper and lower intake ported and polished, and I also hav a 62mm TB, & w/exhaust mod it all works well. :D

If you look inside the Intake its rough and the opening arent real big. When they are ported they grind out material to accomidate more volume, which means more air more fuel. They also enlarge the TB opening, and enlarge the ports going to the lower intake, and its enlarged to the heads. Head can be ported too.

This all adds up to a larger volume of air going into the cylinders which means more Fuel.
Polishing means just that. After grinding its good to get things as smooth as possible. If not you get turbulance, and that slows down air flow.

When I first done intake P&P I noticed an OK gain,
but after I redone the heads and swaped the cam out(this last spring) its way faster than most GT's* :grinyes: :grinyes: (*along with other internal mods too)

Vipey1337, If I were you I'd just get the SLP or custom.
Thats crazy Borla wants almost $700.
Man you can find a shop locally That I'd bet can do you a 2.5" cat back for $300 or less!
Borla sounds good, its just the muffler design inside that gives it a bit of a lower/louder note.
It is louder too, if the policia, in your area, like to harrass people w/loud pipes I'd think twice. Tickets suck :grinyes:

btw Vipey, after I installed my strut bars I could tell when turning it was tighter , didnt get alot of that tire squall or over steer(or push) when turn either :thumbsup:

Hope that clearifies that for you guys.

yessir! that helped alot and therefore i will purchase the UIM and LIM and now i just need to figure if i want to get the PCM or lower my car.... cant decide between them

You can get a those DHP PCMs from PFYC for $100.
Lowering your car is cool to, tho it'll cost about $250 for springs.
GAs look great lowerd :grinyes:

....... that would be a difficult decision !

I also want to get my car lowered and possibly add a body kit when I decide what shade of silver to paint it next, or if i'll just keep it the same. How low and what lowering springs do you recommend? And if I did get a new 2.5" exhaust, wouldn't I be bottlenecking at the catalytic converter?

I guess that also leads to what lowering springs I should get :P

i would reccomend not goin anything lower than 1.75 cuz then youll get into problems and shit with your struts and all that garbage im lookin to go 1.5 front and back, most likely gunna pick up 1.5" by sprint wanted to get sum Eibachs but them things are so damn expensive and the lowering is just gay cuz it slike 1.5 front 1.2 back or something dumb like that i think it should all be even all around but then its just pointless for aero dynamics and all that nonsense

I just want to be able to have a grand am that chews up all these annoying mustangs on campus... there are more mustangs than pontiac vehicles, I swear, and it's very annoying... plus my car will be better in the winter :)

Hey Vipey, you wont get bottle necking at the converter or anywhere for that matter.
The pipe in front of the cat is around 2" already.

1.5" drop looks great, Like jmoney was saying you get to low and tires rub, or you drag your new exhaust off on some speed bump :eek7:

With any lowering kit you will also need a camber kit installed to correct the angle of camber.
And a good 4 wheel Allingment :bigthumb:

With those Ebachs it makes the rear end look jacked up alittle :gay:

:iagree: keeping it even is the way to go, aero dynamicts suck on GA's anyways!
Any cross winds and it blows you all over the road. :evillol:

.....annoying mustangs on campus
They should not allow horses on campus :lol2:

With any lowering kit you will also need a camber kit installed to correct the angle of camber.
And a good 4 wheel Allingment :bigthumb:



Um... I don't know what cambers are :P How would I go about doing the whole lowering thing? I know I'd need struts too... what kind of struts should I get, and should I get Eibach lowering springs or Sprint? Sprints look cheaper, but I'm going to go with what's better. 1.5" sounds awesome for me :) And would I just bring all this to a shop and tell them to align it all for me and install it? I wouldn't know how to align everything (maybe my dad would, but I don't live anywhere near home now), so I'd have to hope someone else knew how.

Thanks for the continued help, hope I don't bug you guys :) I'm just trying to learn as much as possible!

what camber ktis do is kind of align the wheels so they arent slanted from the lowering springs, the only struts i think they make for our car is KYB and between Eibach and Sprint i would go with Sprint becuz they have an even lowering number all around so i would go with them because elike i said i think the fornt lowere dmore than the back is pointless, and to install it all yea just bring it to a shop, If they cani sntall the springs like 95% they will install everything else and align it as well.

dont worry bro ask away thats how we all learn, were here to answer your question. when i started i didnt know shit, like look up all my posts they are like common sense question but we all gotta start somewhere :cool:

I personally would prefer the PFYC.com DHP PCM over any other PCM/Chip/(amazing e-bay chip that gives you 30hp instantly!!! psh lol) Its a good build on the programming and DHP does know what they're doing... I've noticed after letting my girl drive my car that... you have to know what your trans is doing and what it will do while you're going all out with the DHP PCM... Im very glad I did the trans fluid switch cause, I ride it pretty hard nowadays lol (This morning in fact I woke up 1hr20min late for work and only had 20min to get to work... threw on w/e and drove 100mph and got there 1 min late after 5am)

I personally am just going to do the 80 series custom cat-back setup.. see if they cant weld me up a flange so I can have the cat changed out later... right now its just rusted shut and they'd have to drill thru and w/e .. mess..... Plus, im tired of climbing down other my car and lifting up my muffler and re-tightening the bolts on the clamps so its not saggin so much...

replacing the resonator with a straight pipe muffler creates alot more internal noise as well noise outside, I was playin around the other day with some energy drinks and cut a hole in the bottom and stuck it on the end of my exhaust pipe and it muffled it so hardcore it sounded stock.. thought 'wow, that blows lol'

P&P can be some serious $$$... I personally would just do the $180 (upper and lower P&P) buy from donkeypunchperformance but their site has been doing upgrades for some time.. they have some other nifty items of which I do not remember but would be very very nice... like stgIII heads or somethin of that sort...

Headers/hi-flo cat .. a must when combined... S&S Headers have probly the best prices or only prices of that matter to grab some 3400sfi headers and a hi-flo cat...

Myself I would probly grab the best ceramic headers with the hi-flo cat.. but thats just me... it'd sound very awsome with the 80 series on 2"/2.5"... I remember just having the cat on and revvin up the GA... it sounded like shit lol... wasnt even to loud lol but eh it'll be nice havin it flow all the way thru to the muffler...

lowering springs/struts/strut bars and all the assorted goodies... I think it'd be nice to take care of all of it at once... I myself would just be happy with the 1.2/1.3 drop from Eibach... think its up on pfyc.com

speaking of which, I still need to hook up my transmission temp gauge lol :rofl: it just sits and glows blue at the momement, and my A/F dances faster.... cant wait to grab my aeroforce gauge.

I havent been on here lately mainly due to work and gf lol... most of us knows how that goes, ... so just shoot me a PM if anyone has questions on something, I generally try to check AF at work...

first im doing plugs and wires and fuel filter and oil change, then im doing the struts / lowering / etc. with strut bars somewhere and around these times im going to get all my fluids fixed. then move on to exhaust, then probably headers and high-flow cat, and eventually i'll start preparing parts for a supercharger. and someday when im all poor and have to steal money for food, i'll buy a supercharger. LOL sounds like a great life :)

link to the struts?

link to the struts?

PFYC - KYB Factory Replacement Struts - $269.99 (http://www.pfyc.com/store/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=PFYC&Product_Code=GA4001&Product_Count=11&Category_Code=GASUSP)


btw, awsome pic they have up...

http://www.pfyc.com/cotm/ga/74-tdavis.jpg

Hey Gir,
Looks like me in my SE going for A DEW :D

btw what part of PFYC did you come accrossed that pic ?

Hey Gir,
Looks like me in my SE going for A DEW :D

btw what part of PFYC did you come accrossed that pic ?


GA of the month :grinyes:


SE going for A DEW? :uhoh: What? .. eh does that mean?

One day waiting at an intersection, a "T" were wanted to turn let, so did the `joker in front of us. My buddy reaches over and turns off the traction control and says" pass this f***** !" Which was inpossible. We needed to get to the store, to get some Dews, in 10mins and its 20-25mins away.

Traffic was nonstop, but there was many times the guy in front could go. So I started spinng my tires.... and letting the smoke roll :D
It just kept rolling, couldnt even see the car in front of us. So after it cleared the caar in front was gone. But Every time I tried to take off the car kept spinning, and I just could not stop laughing.
Now everytime I see smoke-n-tires I just start laughing :lol2:

lmfao and that is why my signature stands as is

One day waiting at an intersection, a "T" were wanted to turn let, so did the `joker in front of us. My buddy reaches over and turns off the traction control and says" pass this f***** !" Which was inpossible. We needed to get to the store, to get some Dews, in 10mins and its 20-25mins away.

Traffic was nonstop, but there was many times the guy in front could go. So I started spinng my tires.... and letting the smoke roll :D
It just kept rolling, couldnt even see the car in front of us. So after it cleared the caar in front was gone. But Every time I tried to take off the car kept spinning, and I just could not stop laughing.
Now everytime I see smoke-n-tires I just start laughing :lol2:


lol traction pssh :grinno: funny non-the-less

lmfao and that is why my signature stands as is
__________________
my Cardomain


2002 3.4L V6 GA Coupe


-------------------
-Xero is my hero--
-------------------

:worshippy

thankx !

The SE can go through new set of tires in 1 day! :cool:

:shakehead I need to take it to the strip, and eat me some Stangs & TA's :tongue: :naughty:

only if I can stop laughing :D

ok listen to this story i didnt wanna make a new thread for this so imma put it here, ok anyway i went to go get my break pads chanegd and i aske dhim about lowering my car and how much it will cost note this is the palc ei got my Exhaust done, oil changes, breaks, alternator done im a regular there anyway he come sbak outside with this paper that gives me the hours of how long it will take and how much so lowerin the car will take about 4 and a half hours and this is wuts hilarious the total comes to 434.27 so i said bro are u joking me, he slike yea man i even took like 10% off since your always here im like wow this is gay, so wut i learned form this is lowering springs are off my list of mods i think purchasing them for 200-250 alone is enough yet add another 400 on to that i know modding is expensive but over 600 bux just to lower the car = gay so in my opinion i think its a waste id rather buy sum cams with that money, only thing ill spend that kinda money on is performance and i doubt u get a shit load of performance off lowering springs.

link for cams? :)

Lowering the car does improve traction and the aero dynamics.. its not worth $600.

THat sounds about right on the price to install tho.

Cams :ylsuper:

yo xero man seriously i love you in a non homosexual way

yo xero man seriously i love you in a non homosexual way

:rofl:
Thats good to know :D

So I'd want the stage 1 cam? And how hard and how long would it be to install it?

I guess maybe I'd just save up and get stage 2 stuff... would I be able to use the supercharger cams without a supercharger? I plan on getting one someday, but not at the moment... or maybe i should save up and get their stage 2 package :$

Package !
If you got a stage 1 it would run alright without boost.
Maybe a little rough.
Stage 2 has more lift/duration, but with stock heads thier could be issues :grinyes:

My SE has the upper engine ready for boost. Need forged pistons,rods,crank, performance bearings w/2 oil groves ;)

I also hav most of a supercharger kit, but my buddies a Dick and doesnt want to come off all the parts :angryfire:
I'm going to sell it on Ebay and make more than I paid him for it, he's PO'd :lol:

I want a turbo anyways :grinyes: :ylsuper:

every car should be turbo'd !!

yo xero man seriously i love you in a non homosexual way

:eek7: :gay: :rofl:

Where are you getting a turbo from? :P

So are you recommending getting the package thing? Or not?

I've seen a few links with turbos, heres one
http://www.turbochargedpower.com/99-04%20Grand%20Am.htm
heres a pic;
http://www.turbochargedpower.com/images/Martinez%20Engine%201.jpg

I would recomend the kit! :grinyes:
If you bought the parts seperate, you'd spend a lot more money. I think the kit even comes with all the gaskets you would need.

I done my own head work, so I just had to buy a cam.

yo that turbo kit is sick

yo that turbo kit is sick

yea... they're re-doing it tho to make it better...

the setup does look sorta skechy but it does get the job done.... I want to see what improvements they make on this kit...

How much time would it take to install everything in the kit? What tools would I need? I'd also need some form of transportation in the meantime, so this would hopefully not take more than a couple of days... Also, if I got that stage 2 kit, would it be all set for the turbo? As in, would I need to upgrade anything else (except exhaust and all that stuff obviously), or anything else in my engine? Would that stage 2 cam be able to handle a turbo?

How much time would it take to install everything in the kit? What tools would I need? I'd also need some form of transportation in the meantime, so this would hopefully not take more than a couple of days... Also, if I got that stage 2 kit, would it be all set for the turbo? As in, would I need to upgrade anything else (except exhaust and all that stuff obviously), or anything else in my engine? Would that stage 2 cam be able to handle a turbo?

the turbo install isnt easy as pie in most cases... you'd be better off having a tuner shop install it for you and on top of that to tune your car so you dont blow the gaskets...

really before even considering turbo you should consult on how to build ur engine to be ready for turbo... Xi's SE from what Ive heard has more internal parts that made the engine more sturdy and durable... ie. replaced factory crap/cheapness ... Like most who build up their car they start out small and work their way up....

Ive only had my car about a year and I started from.. scratch.... first I did tune-ups... replaced fluids with durable synthetic... fixed my coolant lines so I wasnt steaming after hitting gov limiter :p ummm.... Fixed the crank pully because it was wobbly and just jacked up... squeeked like no other (belt)...

Really just gotta prepare the GA to be modded, start doing mods...

So for on my GA, first thing I remember doing was paying $50-ish for a drop-in filter of which I could of spent on a K&N cone at least lol for a WAI... but I started off just by learning...
Then me and 2 buddys of mine decided to do exhaust.. very ghetto tho (I still have it lol plan on getting a pro job fm 80 series) Right now I have a holly glasspak Redhots straight pipe muffler... Deleted the resonator and stuck it right after the cat and left the remaining pipe to exit towards the back... also no more stock muffler...

then basically from there ive done... Cold Air Intake from Dr.Speed (took forever to get my order.... be warned) but I did recieve after calling and persistancy... and it is a great intake, I hear it whisle on cold mornings when I start my car :grinno:

Then I bought myself the DHP PCM... actually got it before the cold air intake, and it probly gave me the most gain out of everything... Id buy another DHP product if I were to have any other newer GM car that was automatic...

small things Ive done other than change the oil to synthetic... I also changed out the transmission fluid to synthetic (Royal Purple Max ATF) Good sh!t, runs great and did exactly what RP said it would do... mix with the remaining fluids and work great... I feel it to when driving .. its more of a solid state of the trans... no so runny/thin fluid... I went to a local car shop and told them what I wanted to do and they ordered up some quarts and all I did was a trans filter change... just replaced the fluid with better... I plan on doing it again in the near future to get fully synthetic but its fine for now...

Also Ive changed the spark plugs with ACDelco Iridiums, ask Xi on how awsome these plugs are.... (they landed me into a ditch obviously lol long story).... shortly after I installed the new plugs I added on some Taylor Spiro Pro Wires 8mm (blue) from PFYC.com... these wires are niceeee.... I noticed they went well with the plugs and started to give me a clean burn... I drove 4+ hours 60+mph on a full tank and still had more gas to burn...

The plugs i got were from a local shop ($4.90) <- thats a steal lol


as goes for pretty stuff :gay: Ive done gauge face changes, gauge pillar... trans temp and A/F ratio gauge.. blue 194 LED lights and plan on sprayin up some plastic pieces w/ black when I get around to it...
Also, nice set of pioneer speakers .. 3-way 4x6 in the front / 5-way 6x9 in the back .. :thumbsup: great sound.... they can do more tho.. need to get a new head unit... so I can listen to some effin CDs... Id probly get the IPOD jack too... plan on buying one soon.. store my whole computer of music on a 60gb ... Id get a video as well :grinno:

I also just purchased new front rotors/pads and...... New BFG tires all around <- ($441 :eek2: ) .. was poor for 2 weeks till this past friday heh...


but yea, thats all my info basically... shoot questions in PM form if possible...


overall general thing of all this is, start from ground up :thumbsup:

Anyone have a good idea on the order in which I should get things done?

Yes Jmoney that is a sweet turbo.
I am disappionted in the gains of hp=co$t.
I want 10-15psi and a digital boost controler :D:grinyes:

Those HP quotes are based on a stock motor, and the turbo kits are made so you can do just that.
But if you plan on running more boost you need to upgrade internal parts.

Now if you hav other internal upgrades(performance lifters, chromally push rods, 5-6angle grinds on the valves, heavier valve spring, performance bearings, performance rods, performance balanced crankshaft & pistons) you will see more HP gains, a lot more.

The turbo or Supercharger kits would take a couple days, unless you hav done something like it before, and hav many other hands to help out.

If you bought the stage 2 kit from MMS, you would see gains from just that alone. and it'll work with either boost.

If you buy a turbo kit it comes with the special headers, SuperCharger kits dont come with headers.

My SE has all the upper upgrades I could get in there
I bought parts(internal) over a year period then installed them. I could probly run 8-10 psi now and not swet it, but I'd sure hate to throw something through the block because oil wasnt getting where it should.
So New perf crank shaft, perf piston&rings, perf rods, and all the bearings perf(two grove oil slots) may try and upgrade the oil pump and add an oil cooler. Lets see.... that totals $5-6K :eek7: :lol2:

This is whats on my SE,
62mm TB
AC Delco Iridium plugs
RSM upper Intake PP
Lower Intake PP
Roller Rockers (from napa)
Stage 2 heads PP (done myself)
Stage 2 3X00 Camshaft (advance auto)
Chrome moly Push Rods (advance auto)
Light weight Crank Pully Rsm
RSM Headers
Custom Dual Exhaust w/high flow Cat
Custom PCM/compt tune
B&M Trans Cooler

The changes they are making on that turbo kit are two things, 1 get it away from that left inner fenderwell, under heavy torqu I bet it hits around over thier, and 2 to get the T3 Garret to squeeze out a couple more lbs of boost.

Hope that helped guys!

So you're saying, assuming I got that kit, and assuming I got a new exhaust with a high-flow cat, I would then be ready to add a turbo or charger with nothing else upgraded?

So you're saying, assuming I got that kit, and assuming I got a new exhaust with a high-flow cat, I would then be ready to add a turbo or charger with nothing else upgraded?

Yes!
Like I said before, you dont need anything done to really put on one of those Turbo or SC kits. It helps, but not required.
You might need a PCM(if the kits dont provide one) to get the tuning down properly. You can get them from PFYC for $100. :cool:

Cooooool :D

I won't have that kind of money for a while, but it's nice to know it's possible. I think I have an idea of what I'm going to do first, though. Since I will have this car for a long time, I'm going to first make it handle better (since you can't get pulled over for cornering fast, I can at least have fun with this for a while) and look a little neater on the outside, and then buy a high flow cat / exhaust, headers, stage 2 kit, and turbo or supercharger. Then things get fun :) :) :)

So for now, I'll probably get plugs (and maybe wires), lowering springs, at least one if not both strut bars, new struts because I probably need them desperately bad, new wheels because I think I can get a sweet deal on a set of cool black rims, then maybe a body kit, 62mm tb around here, and I might decide to either paint later or paint afterwards, but I'll probably start adding to the speed part at that point.

BTW, can I run the PCM without 91 octane fuel? It says that it's required on PFYC, but I really don't want to have to drop an extra 20 cents per gallon if I don't NEED to...

Wow it's amazing what I've learned already... this is fun stuff :) I'm just scared to try and install all this stuff... my dad did things like this back in the day, but new vehicles are waaaay different than vehicles back in the 70's...

BTW, these springs say 1.6 in front, 1.5 in back... good or no?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SPRINT-Lowering-Springs-99-04-Pontiac-Grand-Am_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33582QQihZ011QQitemZ 320017049690QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V

You dont need to burn 91+ octane, if you want get up and go,
then just fill it up with premium.
I dont burn that premium all the time,
Unless it starts knocking or I want to "pound the streets"!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :ylsuper:

Screw those springs !!
Those sprints would make it look jacked up in the rear and would throw the weight distrubution off, making the front dive when you brake hard. :eek: :gay:

RSM/Z Spec has them for $300(used to be $250?) they are 1.6" all the way around.:thumbsup:
http://www.z-spec.com/catalog.htm

From what I have heard Eibach springs are the Best.

yo Vipey try looking at this site for springs they got great prices

http://www.suspensionmax.com/smshoponline.html

yo Vipey try looking at this site for springs they got great prices

http://www.suspensionmax.com/smshoponline.html


Link no worky :(

You dont need to burn 91+ octane, if you want get up and go,
then just fill it up with premium.
I dont burn that premium all the time,
Unless it starts knocking or I want to "pound the streets"!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :ylsuper:

Screw those springs !!
Those sprints would make it look jacked up in the rear and would throw the weight distrubution off, making the front dive when you brake hard. :eek: :gay:

RSM/Z Spec has them for $300(used to be $250?) they are 1.6" all the way around.:thumbsup:
http://www.z-spec.com/catalog.htm

From what I have heard Eibach springs are the Best.


What springs are those ?

Also, the PCM on pfyc.com kinda confuses me. How does it work, and what do they want you to ship back? A brief explanation would rock :)

I can't believe I have so many questions lol

Hey Vipey that link works now :confused:

I'm not certain what springs Z-spec are selling tho they used to sell Ebachs.
That link Jmoney posted has them for under $200! That rocks!

The PCM (or powertrain control Module) controls engine/trans/Timing operatioins. The ones PFYC sell is open, so you can program features pertaining to your vehicle, like thier ad says, shift points, injector pulse, timing, KR, etc etc.
You send in your old PCM and get $100 core charge back, you dont have to in case you might want to put it back in but you dont get your $100 back either.

One thing, to tune those settings you need a capable diagnostic tools to do so, they sell the DHP tuner for around $350 and its probly worth every penny. Other wise when you need to make adjustments(tune) you'll hav to pay someone.

Also, the PCM on pfyc.com kinda confuses me. How does it work, and what do they want you to ship back? A brief explanation would rock :)

I can't believe I have so many questions lol


Shoot me a PM bro if you have any Q's on the DHP PCM, I went through the whole process :iceslolan

That stage 2 kit I was looking at comes with a stage 2 PCM, so I'll probably wait until I buy that kit to play around with one (and that's going to be a while at my weekly rate of about 60 - 100 bucks a week during classes lol)