Electrical/ and other

What's up. I just aquired a 96 GP. I am having seveal little issues. I had to rebuild the main battery accessory terminal that sits right next to the battery. The kid who had it before just about ripped the entire post off the side. I little JB weld and some washers and she's runnin' again.
I don't know if it is all related to this guys lack of knowledge on stereo installation but there are lots of little issues that are buggin me.
1) The oil light is on. It has recently had an oil change and has plenty in it but the light is always on.
2) The security light is on. I assume this is because he pulled the stock radio out. Is there anyway to get this off.
3) The middle A/C control knob is brocken off. Any one got an extra one they wanna get rid of?
4) There are wires everywhere so I will be back with more questions soon. I am sure I will need a good place to get used parts. I would love any suggestions.

The oil light is most likely a bad/unplugged oil pressure switch. It is located just above the oil filter on the front of the motor.

The security light is most likely an ignition switch failing. If it gets too bad, the car won't start, as the BCM will disable the fuel pump.

The HVAC knob is GM#16181412, and runs $18 retail at a dealer. If you go salvage yard, 94-96 are all the same.

The security light is most likely an ignition switch failing. If it gets too bad, the car won't start, as the BCM will disable the fuel pump.

Are we sure the '96 GP models have a BCM module? To my knowledge the BCM as we know it today didn't come out until '97 and up. He could have a flaky anti-theft deterrent module/chime module or some modification due to an aftermarket alarm system or the radio mod. Since this is a Passkey system he could clean the resistor pellet but that may be worthless if the car starts and runs fine and the same is applicable to the ignition switch key lock cylinder. He just needs to figure what is causing the SECURITY light to stay on. Also, the Passkey may already be bypassed because everything will work but the SECURITY light may stay on.

Thanks guys. The security light is most likely due to some stereo stuff. As I mentioned the person before had all kinds of stuff done. I will keep playing with that.
I need to get a haynes for all the sensors and such. I will pull, clean and check the sensor and plug above the oil filter. The engine has probably never been cleaned. It is really hard to see anything. I am slowly cleaning away all the crap.
My major concern is the A/C wires. I will be going through them today then have the A/C looked at.

Also I found a couple of small vac hoses that had decentegrated due to an obvious battery melt down. I think they may be causing the air to only blow throught the upper and lower vents.

You two seem to post alot. I have a more interesting question for you. What models have the MAF? Every picture I see has a MAF with the engine I have. I have the 3100. There is no MAF but a small air sensor right at the beginning of the hose. The previous owner pushed a cone filter into the end and had it covered. I cut a section of the filter base to make a slot for the sensor since I don't have the original air box.

Lots of stuff here. Have fun with it.
Peace,
Hallboy

The bad vacuum hose(s) is causing the HVAC problem.

You are supposed to have a MAF sensor.

BTW - Get an ALLDATADIY subscription for your wiring problems. The Haynes will not be too helpful.

Yup, LG8 3.1L V6 Vin "M" MAF is located right after the air box but before the IAT sensor and throttle body intake.

Thanks for the correction Bob, I should have said security module (GM#88964942). I'm so used to dealing with these issues on our 97-03 cars, I got ahead of myself.

Thanks for the correction Bob, I should have said security module (GM#88964942). I'm so used to dealing with these issues on our 97-03 cars, I got ahead of myself.

No problem Rich. I understand.

It sounds like you might give him the part number of a MAF sensor since from what he is saying is missing one or didn't see it. I can see that since most GM cars will run without one. :screwy:

The Delco part number is 213-3458 (GM#19112753). Here is a link to the AC-Delco website picture if this helps.

http://198.208.187.182/internet/ViewPartImage.jsp?acdelcoPartNumber=213-3458

Ok. I will start looking throught the yards for hoses and basic bolts and such to fill in the missing little things. I am trying to get the original box back from the previous owner. It probably has the MAF still attached. It's so funny what people do to there cars with no idea what the out come will be. I guess i will need to find the wires that plug into the MAF since I don't see a plug floating around in there.

Thank you guys so much for all the help. I will update once I start knocking these things out.

today on the way home the temp gauge was running realy hot. A good bit above 210. I let the car sit for about ten minutes and then started it back up. It went straight to red, the fans came on and then shut off in only about 1 minute or so. The temp dropped back to i guess around 230-240. It hasn't done that before.

Gotta love the used cars. Good thing it was only $400.

reading thread and read that passkey was bypassed. how do you do that? The new module is over $300 and the car isn't worth that much. found relay and can bypass for starting but ecm still has fuel shut off to engine. Only one wire according to schematic, goes to ecm, can that be bypassed?

reading thread and read that passkey was bypassed. how do you do that? The new module is over $300 and the car isn't worth that much. found relay and can bypass for starting but ecm still has fuel shut off to engine. Only one wire according to schematic, goes to ecm, can that be bypassed?

Welcome to AF.

Here are some tech links that may help give you a better understanding of Passkey VATS. Normally discussions concerning Passkey bypass is at the area of the ignition tumbler/cylinder before the anti-theft deterrent or BCM modules.

http://www.motorage.com/motorage/data/articlestandard/motorage/292005/169809/article.pdf

http://www.12vp.com/info_resistors.htm

Once coding is correct the modules allow the fuel injector pulse enable via the ECM/PCM module.

Thanks for the info on passkey (VATS) system. Problem is the anti-theft module itself opened it up and electronics are damaged. internet search provided many used ones $50 to $75 but after reading the info I understand the original key must come with them. Is there any way to eliminate the unit completely ?

Thanks for the info on passkey (VATS) system. Problem is the anti-theft module itself opened it up and electronics are damaged. internet search provided many used ones $50 to $75 but after reading the info I understand the original key must come with them. Is there any way to eliminate the unit completely ?

If you have the GM wiring diagrams or similar I don't see any problems with a bypass at that component. A relay (anti-theft) may be part of the VATS system. All you would need to do is field fix by running a jumper across the normally open or closed contacts of the relay. The signal could be either hot 12 volts or a ground/low.

Another option is to find the enable input at the ECM module and apply the bypass at that point. Most enable signals to the ECM/PCM module is a low but I am not 100% sure on 1996 and under models. I'd have to do some more research to be sure. The easiest remedy is to replace the anti-theft deterrent module aka chime module if you are sure that is the problem.

I removed the module and opened the lid to it. It has a printed circut board iside with transistors and stuff on it. One of the transistors is broken apart and swelled up. I can bypass the anti-theft relay and crank the engine but it will not keep running because the module is not sending a signal to the ECM to enable the fuel injectors. I have located the wire to the ECM but I am not clear what type of signal the TDM sends to it. My info sheet says it is a pulse width modulated signal. If the same ECM is used without the VATS system then It must be a learned response from the first start-up in this car. Can the ECM be re-programed without replacing it

I removed the module and opened the lid to it. It has a printed circut board iside with transistors and stuff on it. One of the transistors is broken apart and swelled up. I can bypass the anti-theft relay and crank the engine but it will not keep running because the module is not sending a signal to the ECM to enable the fuel injectors. I have located the wire to the ECM but I am not clear what type of signal the TDM sends to it. My info sheet says it is a pulse width modulated signal. If the same ECM is used without the VATS system then It must be a learned response from the first start-up in this car. Can the ECM be re-programed without replacing it
Called around locally and found a TDM module in a wrecked car with the ign. key still with it for $75 installed it in car and had key cut at locol lockshop with the correct resistance and to fit my ign. It works started right up:rofl: