Specs: 95 Ford Taurus SHO, 3.2L N/A

History: No known Electrical problems all cables, Switches, Relays, Fuses are fine.

Symptom: Vehicle wont start, turns over a few cranks and quits. Lights dim Considerably.

Visual: Looking at the starter the base cap of the solenoid which secures the wires is loose. The entire base cap can Rotate.

Now im not gonna lie i know nothing about most fords other than fluid capacitys... with that said, on a ford is this normal?? i mean ive honestly never seen a starter solenoid with a cap that can move that much.
Also i do know that oil can kill a starter but whats coming out of the base cap is like grease. im not shitting you it looks like if you were to grease a ball joint and bleed it a little bit.

Im thourouly convinced the starter is shot but i figured id ask the all knowing members of automotive forums.... what else can cause this. think of it like this.... when you go to start it it sounds like a dead battery, shits part is the battery is prime, and we have even tried jump starting it.

now ive also heard of the overly retarted timing theory. being an electronicly controlled vehicle how would i go about advancing the timing??

Any help is MUCH appreciated as this is causing a migrane

Sounds like you probably are due for a new starter. Since you mention though that the engine cranks over a few times, then stops and the lights dim, you may want to pull the plugs and make sure none of them are saturated. If so, something may be causing the engine to hydro-lock such as leaky fuel injectors, cracked head, etc.

With the plugs removed, does the engine crank over easily? And yes, I used to own a '93 SHO with the 3.2L, the plugs are not as difficult to get to as it appears. While you have them out, check for oil in the plug wells. If you find oil, a misfire and need for new plug wires won't be far behind.

-Rod

"now ive also heard of the overly retarted timing theory. being an electronicly controlled vehicle how would i go about advancing the timing??"
Like you said, it's electronically controlled and the timing and umpteen other functions are controlled by the computer program and it's programmed for 87 octane gas so you accomplish zilch by using higher octane, except wasting your money.

We havent tried pulling the plugs out just yet as we didnt have the required tools handy.. but it IS on the to do list. Also there was oil in the spark plug wells, not much but enough to cause some problems.

"now ive also heard of the overly retarted timing theory. being an electronicly controlled vehicle how would i go about advancing the timing??" Remove the engine and rotate the Cam and Crank by hand....or get a tuner....but the first method doesn't cost anything.