Power Window Motor R&R
JDegenhart
08-21-2006, 05:59 AM
I am replacing the window motor on the driver’s side. I have been taping the window in the “up” position with duct tape and then pulling the motor from the regulator without taking the regulator assembly off.
Someone told me that the regulator is spring loaded and removing the window motor without removing the whole regulator as a unit is very dangerous. They said to remove the regulator and motor as an assembly, drill a hole through the sector gear and back plate secure them together with a ¼-20 screws so the unit will not unload unexpectedly.
Have I been that lucky by removing and replacing the window motors without removing the regulator assembly? Nothing has jumped or moved while I have been replacing the motor. Is it necessary to remove the whole regulator assembly to replace the motor?
Someone told me that the regulator is spring loaded and removing the window motor without removing the whole regulator as a unit is very dangerous. They said to remove the regulator and motor as an assembly, drill a hole through the sector gear and back plate secure them together with a ¼-20 screws so the unit will not unload unexpectedly.
Have I been that lucky by removing and replacing the window motors without removing the regulator assembly? Nothing has jumped or moved while I have been replacing the motor. Is it necessary to remove the whole regulator assembly to replace the motor?
Ultrashock
08-21-2006, 06:14 PM
dont seperate the motor from the regulator it will spring
take the motor and regulator out together. Take a drill and drill through somewhere on the regulator (make sure it goes through both layers) and stick a nut and bolt in there to keep it from snapping. Then you can take the motor and drill out the rivets. Attach and secure the new motor to the regulator and then take the bolt out
Be careful and here is a good website http://www.a1electric.com/s10motor.htm
take the motor and regulator out together. Take a drill and drill through somewhere on the regulator (make sure it goes through both layers) and stick a nut and bolt in there to keep it from snapping. Then you can take the motor and drill out the rivets. Attach and secure the new motor to the regulator and then take the bolt out
Be careful and here is a good website http://www.a1electric.com/s10motor.htm
BlazerLT
08-21-2006, 08:44 PM
That is an awesome link!
JDegenhart
08-25-2006, 09:49 AM
Thanks for the link!
In the article, it states, “In most vehicles, it is necessary to remove the regulator from the door before removing the motor.”
Would anyone know which vehicle does, or does not require the removal of the regulator to replace the motor? Is a 1985 K5 Blazer Silverado one of them?
I would think that by securing the window with duct tape would hold it in place (as the screw would if the unit were removed). I've done this three times before someone told me I should worry because of a pre-loaded spring to the sector gear. The window has not moved from where I taped it up originally, or give any indication of unloading. I just drilled three holes in the metal door panel and removed the three bolts from the regulator to the motor and the motor just drops down to the bottom of the door.
When I put another motor in, I just slip the motor through the access hole and slide it into place until the three holes line up behind the regulator and start the threads. Now, this is the part that has me worried... Is it going to suddenly fold and the scissors will cut off my hand, mmmm.....
I am missing something? Maybe some fingers before ignorance sets in and I get whacked! Better ask some questions...
If the spring is unloaded, (if I’m poking through the boneyard, looking for a “new” motor) how would I know by looking at the assembly that the spring has unloaded. I would like to make sure that I don’t get bit sticking my hand in an access hole, if another person left it as bear trap, ready to eat my fingers.
If it does unload, how do you preload the spring before attaching the motor to the sector gear? This thing was assembled at the factory once…
Maybe just cut a rectangular access panel at the motor location just to drill a hole for a bolt to lock the sector gear. Wait, that will bind the arms ….
Sorry for so many questions, I like to know the entire system when I look at a project like this, beyond what a Hayes or Chilton’s can provide.
Somebody get me out of removing the regulator and arms!!!
In the article, it states, “In most vehicles, it is necessary to remove the regulator from the door before removing the motor.”
Would anyone know which vehicle does, or does not require the removal of the regulator to replace the motor? Is a 1985 K5 Blazer Silverado one of them?
I would think that by securing the window with duct tape would hold it in place (as the screw would if the unit were removed). I've done this three times before someone told me I should worry because of a pre-loaded spring to the sector gear. The window has not moved from where I taped it up originally, or give any indication of unloading. I just drilled three holes in the metal door panel and removed the three bolts from the regulator to the motor and the motor just drops down to the bottom of the door.
When I put another motor in, I just slip the motor through the access hole and slide it into place until the three holes line up behind the regulator and start the threads. Now, this is the part that has me worried... Is it going to suddenly fold and the scissors will cut off my hand, mmmm.....
I am missing something? Maybe some fingers before ignorance sets in and I get whacked! Better ask some questions...
If the spring is unloaded, (if I’m poking through the boneyard, looking for a “new” motor) how would I know by looking at the assembly that the spring has unloaded. I would like to make sure that I don’t get bit sticking my hand in an access hole, if another person left it as bear trap, ready to eat my fingers.
If it does unload, how do you preload the spring before attaching the motor to the sector gear? This thing was assembled at the factory once…
Maybe just cut a rectangular access panel at the motor location just to drill a hole for a bolt to lock the sector gear. Wait, that will bind the arms ….
Sorry for so many questions, I like to know the entire system when I look at a project like this, beyond what a Hayes or Chilton’s can provide.
Somebody get me out of removing the regulator and arms!!!
JDegenhart
09-08-2006, 12:48 PM
Just to follow-up...
1985 K-5 Blazer
I have just been taping the window to the door with duct tape to keep it in place and then disconnect the plug, unbolt the motor and pull it out through the access hole. I have R & R several times like this with no problems.
I did have to drill out openings in the door to get at the mount to motor attaching bolts. Also grind down the rivets holding the mount to the motor, if it is still factory. I used a #2 Center Drill. You will get new hardware when you get a new one.
I ordered a pair of motors that come with a new mount, the motor and hardware and limited lifetime warranty.
I don't know if this is dangerous or not, if the window is secured to the door window frame, it seemed secure and I didn't run into any problems.
Careful though, this is working on my 85, results may vary by family year. I’ve heard terrible things regarding this. Maybe someone knows the years that removing the window motor does not require removing the regulator?
1985 K-5 Blazer
I have just been taping the window to the door with duct tape to keep it in place and then disconnect the plug, unbolt the motor and pull it out through the access hole. I have R & R several times like this with no problems.
I did have to drill out openings in the door to get at the mount to motor attaching bolts. Also grind down the rivets holding the mount to the motor, if it is still factory. I used a #2 Center Drill. You will get new hardware when you get a new one.
I ordered a pair of motors that come with a new mount, the motor and hardware and limited lifetime warranty.
I don't know if this is dangerous or not, if the window is secured to the door window frame, it seemed secure and I didn't run into any problems.
Careful though, this is working on my 85, results may vary by family year. I’ve heard terrible things regarding this. Maybe someone knows the years that removing the window motor does not require removing the regulator?
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