ball joints: 2000 Grand Prix GTP

Hi All,

This is a great forum! I just signed up yesterday, so I am a newbie.... but I am glad I found this site! I only wish I had found it months ago!

Okay, here is my situation, starting with a little background. I bought my 2000 GTP w/HUD a little over 2 years ago when it had 41k miles on it. It now has 72k miles. I absolutely love this car!

In March of this year I hit a patch of ice turning into my parking lot at work and hit a curb doing about 10-15 mph. This resulted in sheering the driver's side tie rod completely off the car (as in gone and missing).

The dealer replaced the tie rod and everything was fine for a couple of months. Then I bought 4 new tires (Goodyear TripleTreds) and about 2 weeks later while pulling out of work I noticed/smelled burning rubber and white smoke was pouring out from my driver's side rear wheel well. Apparently while parking my car that morning my coil spring decided to snap (an entire "ring" from the coil had broken off), which caused the tire to make contact with the wheel well. Luckily I did not ruin the tire.

The dealer tells me I need to replace the rear coil spring and struts, as well as needing new front/rear rotors and brakes. And he will do it all for only $2k. After shopping around the best price I could find was $1,750. So my DIY hobby began. I am not a mechanic, but I can get by if I have instructions.

So, in summary, I have repaired myself in the past 3 mths:
* front and rear rotors and brakes
* rear coil springs and struts, both sides

Total cost: $500 + wkend time lost :)

Now, last week I noticed the front end is feeling very sloppy, so I take it in to find out what else went wrong when I hit that curb many months ago. I am told I need a new sway bar and ball joints! I inspect the car while they have it up on the lift and there is a 1/2" gap between the sway bar and the rest of sway bar connect to the tower bolt on the passenger side, and a crack clean through on the drivers side. And he points out the ball joints and tells me they are worn.

So, after doing a lot of reading hear, I have decided I need to buy from GMPartsDirect.com:
* pk12456148 - Handling Upgrade Kit
* 12498648 - STB kit (I know this has 2 and they sell just one and the pk kit comes w/one, but this is actually cheaper that buying just 1).

So, finally, my question: does anyone know the GM part number(s) for everything I need to do the ball joints? Also, if anyone has a DIY walkthrough, that would be great!

Sorry about the long message, but I wanted to be thorough...

Unfortunately, I don't have the information you are looking for at the moment but I wanted to welcome you to AF!! As you stated this is a great forum and you should be able to get a lot of good information here.

The AC Delco Number is 45D2259 and sells for $54.79, the Moog PN is K5331 and sells for $43.79. Both are from Rockauto.com. You will probably need to rent a ball joint seperator as well. Autozone should have one for rent.

Good Luck!

welcome you to AF!! As you stated this is a great forum and you should be able to get a lot of good information here.

Thanks! There certainly is a lot of great info. I will keep hunting on the web to see if I can find a ball joint replacement guide.

The AC Delco Number is 45D2259 and sells for $54.79, the Moog PN is K5331 and sells for $43.79. Both are from Rockauto.com. You will probably need to rent a ball joint seperator as well. Autozone should have one for rent.

I will definately rent the seperator. Thanks for the advice!

Personally I would not waste my time replacing just the ball joint. It is not worth the hassle. Putting the new ball joint on is easy but getting the old one off requires drilling out the rivets that hold the ball joint onto the control arm.

I'm surprised your accident didn't bend the lower control arm.

In most cases of accident damage like running up a curb, it is better to replace the whole control arm. It comes with new bushings and the ball joint. GMPartsDirect has them for around $100.00. I have the part numbers for L/R if you want them. Of course, it all depends how much money you have to spend for the repairs. But paying $100 for a complete new control arm sounds better than spending $50 for just a ball joint. :2cents:

replace the whole control arm. It comes with new bushings and the ball joint. GMPartsDirect has them for around $100.00. I have the part numbers for L/R if you want them.

I already ordered the ball joints (1 for each side) from RockAuto ($117 shipped). And I ordered the sway bar upgrade kit from GMPartsDirect, but I will probably not see them for a few weeks since it listed as a "special order" item.

Do you have those part numbers handy? If it is not too much more then maybe I can call RockAuto and get them to cancel the order.

Thanks for all of the help!

I already ordered the ball joints (1 for each side) from RockAuto ($117 shipped). And I ordered the sway bar upgrade kit from GMPartsDirect, but I will probably not see them for a few weeks since it listed as a "special order" item.

Do you have those part numbers handy? If it is not too much more then maybe I can call RockAuto and get them to cancel the order.

Thanks for all of the help!

Yeah, that is typical for GMPartsDirect. Everything is special order or back order but they have the best prices for GM/OEM/AC Delco parts.

Control Arm
R: 10328904
L: 10328903

Around $93.66 for each.

Thank you for the part numbers and all of the help! I called RockAuto and asked them to cancel the order, and I will order the control arm assemblies.

Final question for you (well, for now... lol): Is it okay to drive the car at low speeds (say 40mph and under) until I replace the sway bar and ball joints? The sway bar is completely broken through, but now hanging down yet (one site is supported), and the ball joints are just showing wear.

Thank you for the part numbers and all of the help! I called RockAuto and asked them to cancel the order, and I will order the control arm assemblies.

Final question for you (well, for now... lol): Is it okay to drive the car at low speeds (say 40mph and under) until I replace the sway bar and ball joints? The sway bar is completely broken through, but now hanging down yet (one site is supported), and the ball joints are just showing wear.

You're welcome. Driving around with worn ball joints is not a problem if you keep the speed down and stay off rough roads. The sway bar will be annoying and I would watch taking curves or turns at too high of speed since that is when they are stressed. How much is hanging down and where? It sounds like it is more towards the control arm and the links because the rest is supported by and secured to the subframe. I know of other AF GP members that drove around with a broken sway bar but I would be careful. Good luck!

Thank you for the part numbers and all of the help! I called RockAuto and asked them to cancel the order, and I will order the control arm assemblies.

Final question for you (well, for now... lol): Is it okay to drive the car at low speeds (say 40mph and under) until I replace the sway bar and ball joints? The sway bar is completely broken through, but now hanging down yet (one site is supported), and the ball joints are just showing wear.

Dguindon did you get yours fixed yet?

Funny, mine has been driven for 3 months with a broken sway bar AND a bad ball joint.

I looked at the ball joint and it DOES look rough removing the rivets. I think I will remove the control arms too since it looks easier and I have the sway bar in already.

You're welcome. Driving around with worn ball joints is not a problem if you keep the speed down and stay off rough roads. The sway bar will be annoying and I would watch taking curves or turns at too high of speed since that is when they are stressed. How much is hanging down and where? It sounds like it is more towards the control arm and the links because the rest is supported by and secured to the subframe. I know of other AF GP members that drove around with a broken sway bar but I would be careful. Good luck!

One other note of caution. If the sway bar breaks like mine did the short broken part next the the wheel could twist and rub a hole in the CV boot. Mine was almost there before I replaced it...!!!

One other note of caution. If the sway bar breaks like mine did the short broken part next the the wheel could twist and rub a hole in the CV boot. Mine was almost there before I replaced it...!!!

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