I need the help of anyone who can help me find the vacuum schematics of a 1990 caprice with the Olds 307ci 4bbl engine. any other websites or service manuals, anything of use would be greatly appreciated. the veci label is faded beyond readability and most of the marks and labels i made got cleaned and and lost during a full gasket replacement. if you need more info on vehicle please leave me a message.

My hanes rochester carb manual has a diagram, but the one in my chiltons manual was a lot better.

check out the chiltons manual and see if its what you need. I got mine at autozone

You might also check autozone.com. They have a repair manual on-line.

Does this help?

http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1a/d6/c4/0900823d801ad6c4.jsp

I just finished a full gasket job on my 1990 Olds 307 also. And I went through 32 feet of vacuum hose replacing all the old vacuum.... so just buy it by the spool!

If you give me ur email address, I can email ya a jpeg picture of the emissions sticker off my 1990 Caprice Wagon. I've also got the shop manual.

Otherwise let me know what routing issue you've got and I can tell ya what you need to know.

I know this car ALL TOO WELL!!! Definetely one of the worst caprice's ever made.

apologies for the late thanks to all of you, don't have it completed yet but the chiltons manual was of beytter help than the haynes, why's that? same company prints them both. anyhoo the car was also missing a few parts here and there

For those looking for a fairly comprehensive guide to rebuilding and adjusting the carburetor, AutoZone has hosted a good set of AllData directions on their site with free access:

http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1a/d7/ce/0900823d801ad7ce.jsp

Upon a cursory glance over the instruction listed there, one item was conspicuous by its absence - Inspection and sealing of the main and secondary metering well plugs. Over time, the sheet metal plugs which are peinned into the machining holes in the float bowl body can develop leaks. This is quite common on all QuadraJets, whether they are the older 4MV/4MC variety or the latest E4ME/E4MC electronically controlled types. The repair is simple, and should be done even if there are no signs of fuel leakage at the plugs, since they can develop shortly after cleaning. The rebuilt carburetor may operate fine after the rebuild and adjustment, but start to become mysteriously rich shortly after that, causing further work.

Any leakage from either of the well plugs will allow raw, unmetered fuel to empty into the intake through the vacuum passages in the throttle body:

http://72.19.213.157/files/4MVWellPlugEpoxyDissoled02.jpg

The area surrounding the plugs should be cleand of any residue, old sealant, gasket fragments, and allowed to dry completely:

http://72.19.213.157/files/Q-JetWellPlugID.jpg

You can use a small, flat punch and hammer to lightly pein the areas surrounding the plugs to make sure they are fully retained and improve the seal between them. Scuff the surface lightly to promote adhesion and clean away and residue. Once cleaned and dried, mix a small amount of fuel-resistant epoxy and apply it to the surface of the sheet metal plugs and the surrounding area to completely seal the joints:

http://72.19.213.157/files/Q-JetWellPlugSealed.jpg

This relatively simple step alone can help solve any rich mixture and flooding problems, and prevent them in the future. Every QuadraJet and DualJet (E2SE) carburetor using this design should be sealed in this manner.

Oddly, later versions of these carburetors were assembled with a soft rubber foam seal installed in the secondary metering wells to help prevent leakage. This was an apparent recognition by the factory of the long-standing problem, but this unfortunately didn't address the same potential for leakage from the primary metering wells. Designing a foam seal in that area would have been difficult, since the area needs to remain open to allow distribution of manifold vacuum to the various passages shared by that opening.

Furthermore, the rubber compound used for these factory (secondary only) well seals tends to dissolve in the presence of modern fuel additives and cleaners. The epoxy patch is a permanent repair if done properly. The same problem exists on even the latest Dodge/Chrysler V-8 engines which used the Rochester E4ME well into the 1990s.

I did that same thing with my rochester when I rebuilt it, I used JBweld and When I had it off a few weeks ago I checked it out, and it was all still there.