van stalls out of the blue without a shutter , just shuts down at any time....have changed out the fuel filter and fuel pump. any suggestions as to whats going on??? won`t restart till it is put in park.

For me it was the pump, but the next item on the list to check after the pressure test would of been the crank sensor. From what I've read that is one symptom.

thanks for reply.... i also have read and agree on the sensor. my next plan is having the computer read to see if it agree`s too, or show something else?
is there a way to read the computer codes by using the secret ignition way? can anyone tell me how to do it? or does it have to go to the shop for that?

guy at napa talked me into getting a pressure gauge for the gas line said pressure on my FWD 92 grand voyager SE 3.3L should be 74 psi and if it read around 60 ( it read 40 psi)than I would need to replace the fuel pump...went back for a new pump and said he was wrong on the all wheel drive pressure was 74 psi. and the front wheel drive is actually 101 psi...:eek: ok, gotta have it... cost $253.00. i did the work myself, easy enough. the new pump read 40 psi too...:banghead: i cleaned the grime off really good and when I took the old pump out and looked in the tank it was like brand new. do i have any recourse with napa, other than switching out pumps again??? if even than. that is too much money for me for nothing. :wtf:

I had 40 also, but at least I now had something at the fuel rail. So I knew it would run.

The code thing is simple enough. Key on-off-on-off-on-off-on an watch the engine light. Make note of the number of blinks (took me five tries) They will come in three groups to make a three digit code. Then search 'dodge error codes' in google. Allpar has a good walk through on the whole show.

I had 40 also, but at least I now had something at the fuel rail. So I knew it would run.

The code thing is simple enough. Key on-off-on-off-on-off-on an watch the engine light. Make note of the number of blinks (took me five tries) They will come in three groups to make a three digit code. Then search 'dodge error codes' in google. Allpar has a good walk through on the whole show.


My 92 caravan shows the codes as 2 digit codes.

When it stalls when you are driving, does the speedo and all the gauges drop? I had bought a 92 that had some issues like that and it turned out to be the ignition switch had problems, when it would heat up, it would short out and cause the van to stall. The ignition switch is 25.99 from Autozone, and it is not that hard to install, one of the cheaper items to try to replace.

There will probably not be any codes stored if this is the problem.

gauges stay on if i leave the ignition on, other than my coasting speed... dash says nothing, when it happend was forced to put hazards on and pull over, not a good situation. what was a fairly rare occurance now happens too much to risk driving it all. seems as soon as it is good and warmed up will start stalling at every stop sign if not sooner. van sits til i can get it to a shop for dianostic. engine turns when it happens but just wouldn`t start till i was able to put it park....thing now won`t hardly go anywhere without stalling. wanna buy a van?

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guy at napa talked me into getting a pressure gauge for the gas line said pressure on my FWD 92 grand voyager SE 3.3L should be 74 psi and if it read around 60 ( it read 40 psi)than I would need to replace the fuel pump...went back for a new pump and said he was wrong on the all wheel drive pressure was 74 psi. and the front wheel drive is actually 101 psi...:eek: ok, gotta have it... cost $253.00. i did the work myself, easy enough. the new pump read 40 psi too...:banghead: i cleaned the grime off really good and when I took the old pump out and looked in the tank it was like brand new. do i have any recourse with napa, other than switching out pumps again??? if even than. that is too much money for me for nothing. :wtf:
3.3L fuel PSI should be around 50 PSI at the fuel rail.(engine off or engine running with vacume line removed from pressure regulator.)

With vacume line NOT removed and engine running(normal state), fuel PSI should be approximately 10 PSI less. I just took my fancy new guage off of my fuel rail a little while ago. Mines 50PSI until I start it and it drops to 40 unless I pull the vacume line which brings it back to 50. Those figures are straight from Haynes Manual.


Wouldn't be 101PSI, the fuel injection pressure tester doesn't even go that high. Im not sure I would trust the 74PSI for AWD, either. If it's a 3.3 liter, it shouldn't matter how many wheels the engine turns, the PSI should be the same. Sounds like some of that good old reliable parts counter advice I get at some of our parts stores.

If you had 40 PSI, ur pump is fine. Sorry you got burned on a new one you didn't need. Sell it to someone who needs one that trusts you, a friend maybe. Or off it on ebay, I dunno.

It sounds like your electronic transmission solenoid may be the culprit. The solenoid controls everything, shifts, speed sensors, shift sensors, etc. Have the solenoid checked.

Try extracting the codes from the computer. Could be bad Cam or Crank sensor.

EXTRACTING FAULTS

Stored fault codes can be displayed by cycling the ignition key ON - OFF - ON - OFF - ON. They can also be displayed through use of a Diagnostic Scan Tool. The Scan Tool connects to the diagnostic connector in the vehicle.

I have a 97 voyager that stalls or just has no power when foot is on gas. Have changed the map sensor and the throttle since they were the codes showing but it is still stalling and cutting out. Do you have any idea what else it could be?
Jazzerdo

Most cars won't start unless it is in park or neutral.
My van did the stalling out of the blue only twice on the highway.
The van had a clogged CAT converter at 145,000 miles.